Sounds like either cabling is duff somewhere along the line (that last outer section is about 5cm too long).

OR

Bent mech hanger/ r.mech

OR

An incompatibility in the components. What your describing sounds exactly like what happens when someone puts a 9 speed component into a 10 speed setup. Check everything, model number to model number. 105 has been 10 speed for a long time (~2006?), ultegra & DA longer yet. If it a 5600 105 (2006-2010 sort of period) the right hand shifters are notorious for trouble, they either burst at a low mileage or the click mechanism becomes loose within the body = weird will shift/won’t shift type of scenario.

Lastly take your cassette off (actually off not just look at it) and check all the spacers have ’10s’ on them, check each cog belongs with that cassette and you haven’t got an old 9 speed mixed up in there.

Clive!

You CAN get three chains out of it, but not on an MTB, most folk do this…
chain 1 till worn
chain 2 might work, probably not
chain 3 won’t even go on it

So….
For MTB I run three chains, change them over about every 6-8 rides so they are all wearing at sort of the same rate. Works for me, when they all start hitting the wear limit i just ride em till they bust, then replace everything.

Sounds like its gonna be an exciting one, plenty of snow in Glasgow, WAY more up north, can’t wait!

Take all the sizes with a pinch of salt.

I run 35/37c marathon plus // SKS 35mm // tortec velocity race

The mudguard are rated upto 32c MAX, the rack is rated to 28c tyre, yet both fit very snuggly and never rub despite the tyre being far larger than the max spec

Silver/ shiny rails/ anthracite wheels/ red brakes/ very slight tint = perfect + easy to clean*

*i.e. you don’t have to. My car goes around 4-6k miles between wash’s and always gets comments on how tidy it looks.

medium cage old 10 speed 28t
medium cage new 11 speed 30t

long cage old 10 speed 30/32t
long cage new 10 speed 32t

the difference between the long and medium cage apart from capacity is the top of the cage has a flat filed onto it to clear the 32t, so you can literally take a file to one (6700RD) to get it to fit 32t, medium cage won’t have the capacity though (if double chainring?)

Thats especially true now where all (?) diesels have a DPF which does not like short journeys.

Finally they’ve sorted that out. My biggest hate of travelling to dover is queing for that damn bridge every time, I’m sure its not the size of the bridge thats the slowing factor its the queing at the barriers that causes a permanent 3-5 mile tail back.

No barriers = less traffic now?

Official consumption numbers should never be believed, cars are developed to get good figures on the test, as thats what manufacturers emmisions figures, road fund license etc are worked out on, and the higher the number the more you’d want to buy it.

I borrowed a Passat bluemotion tech for a few days last year (1.6 manual saloon), not sure what the official figures are, but on a 150 mile motorway journey with bad city traffic at each end it reckoned it did 72mpg, motorway was dealt with at 78mpg indicated cruise control. After filling it up, the computer had dropped to 61mpg over the whole tank, and a fill up revealed 64mpg over the whole tank (but I didn’t fill it up the first time so…). Anyways, for the size, comfort, performance (150bhp?), and speed it got me around those few days 60 odd mpg is amazing.

I guess the rule would be, use it for city driving, short journeys, not many motorway trips. Petrol Petrol Petrol. they are so much cleaner (in an urban environment) and cost effective in this use.

But if you spend most of your life on A roads + motorway with little city/town driving then diesel diesel diesel!

Sounds like you did the right thing, banging on the brakes immediately could have caused another accident, so taking stock of situation then doubling back sounds good to me.

About 4 years ago a woman did exactly that, she slid off the A75 (west of Dumfries) in poor road conditions into some woods approaching a 30mph zone. I think it took ~3 days until a dog walker in a field even discovered the car. The driver had perished, chances it was on impact and not a drawn out affair.

I witnessed another driver flip a car through a hedge, I was driving pretty quick, decided I wanted to slow down as the next bit of road is in a terrible condition, car behind was having none of it so came past me in a safe manner. 2 minutes later noticed that she wasn’t ahead of me anymore (road opens up), looked in my mirror to see the car upside down in a field. Went to help, just cuts and bruises, but she was shaken up and not even aware of how she had come to be upside down in a field. She wasn’t breaking the limit (60), its just a bad road and not suitable to be driving at that sort of speed, she paid the price.

My GF nearly got run over by a stag on the first MTB ride I took her on.

Up until nearly being flattened by said beasty, she wasn’t really enjoying it. It was only after that she was like ‘I want to do that again!’

I hit an owl, twice! Few years back, winter night MTB up a forest on my own, descending a trail and a small speckle owl flew out into my helmet light/face. A week later, same trail, but maybe 30m further up it, I was just thinking, ‘oh yeah thats where that little owl popped out on me’ rahghghghh feathers, face, claws, Oh yup, that was a different owl!

No idea what the second owl was, but certainly larger than the first

The mark up on higher end bike stuff is horrific, £10k retail = £2.5-3k max actual cost to get it landed in the UK

Whats more impressive is routing god damn Di2 in under 2hours, let alone the rest of the bike. Or maybe they just have the mother of all proddy sticks for pushing the coiled up cables through the lubed up frames

I have a nice Alessi Aldo Rossi stove-top, but than I wear difficult dark framed glasses and drive a Saab.

Lol, I love your demographic, I’m not quite in it though have I’ve had a few saabs, now have a volvo, have lots of coffee, own 1x turtleneck and live with an architect, does that count?

Anyone know where you can get those gas hob adapters for coffee pots? New flats hobs are not espresso pot compatible 🙁

By the looks of the above, I don’t think I really need to add much to this, that whole area is fantastic. Yeah there are a few bad folk, but there are everywhere if you look in the wrong places!

This summer we drove to Croatia and back, did a little of Slovenia (will spend more time next time) and Bosnia (lots more here next time, did you know it was recently voted most friendly country in Europe!!!??). Wanted to drop into Montegro but time wasn’t on our side.

In Croatia unless you like coach/bus/train/ferry/cruise ship loads of Italians, Germans and other tourists in a resort like environment, just go around Split and to a lesser extent Dubrovnik.
Do spend more time in the country, do be aware the national parks are beautiful, but extortionate (£12-28 PER DAY PER PERSON). Do drive/ride/swim the dalmation coastal highway, its amazing and these days after the motorways, very quiet even in summer.

At least you got an update for the S4, back when I had an S1 then S2 they would just not realse the big firmware updates so you were stuck with launch or whatever folk on XDA developer forum could cunjure up.

If it had ANT+ it would have had it from launch surely, its a hardware capability not software.

Strava doesn’t work with ANT+ but it does with Bluetooth (inc BT4.x low power), yet….

Also at strathclyde, will fill in the survey.

Have you managed to get a locker at the uni? Currently having to drag my riding gear around with me all day as cant’ get hold of a locker. Cale’ has a brand new set of lockers & showers for commuters who run/cycle in though 😉

Shimano and campag despite having the same number of cogs, are spaced differently, so unless you are using campag shifters & mech’s, its not going to work properly, it might mostly work though.

IF you use campag shifters but a shimano mtb mech, you might get closer to it working, but again, wouldn’t recommend it.

But yes, for 7/8/9/10 speed shimano MTB & Road have the same pull ratio, so you can put an XT mech from any of those groups, on a road shifter from any of those groups.
EG my hybrid touring thing is running 10×2 tiagra flat bar shifters, with a 10 speed tiagra double chainset, 9 out of 10 cogs of an MTB cassette, on a 7 speed hub, 10 speed KMC road chain, with a 9 speed XT long cage rear mech, and the front mech is some random 80s Suntour road double. And it all works beautifully.

IS there a new MBP 13″? I was after one without the retina display, or at least, not 1600px of screen, as the only other MBP option is the old 2011/2012 13″ with the dvd + HDD which weighs a cubic tonne. Was kind of hoping they would launch a 13″ MBP non retina with an SSD and about 1000px of screen (i.e. plenty for a screen that size!) and about £8/900 price point.

So your after just new rings? Just get 9 or 10 speed machined jobs or lower end shimano from interwebs, a 9 speed chain will run just fine on 10 speed rings, and the other way around it will probably run fine too!

Just built up a winter hybrid thing out of junk parts, tiagra 10×2 but on a 7 speed freehub only 9 of the 10 cogs actually fit, and even then, I find for commuting purposes I am just constantly chainging gear as they are so close to each other (12-30t block).

I find 10 and 11 speed much more highly strung, especially those that have a lot of internally routed cables, so you do have to adjust the gears more often than an 8 or a 9 speed setup, although shimano have just changed the pull ratio on their latest offerings which might help things?

Miele, they are built very well, usually weigh a lot (surely a good sign?) and last for donkies with no maintaince.

I’ve had loads of different dyson & vax (used to be good as you could get spare parts from anywhere for about 50p, but not really any more as they are now solid state + chinese) and after hearing good things about my mates pet miele not succumbing to his dogs long hair I got one.

2 years of removing well ingrained dog hair from carpet and it still runs like new, and I’ve never had to dismantle the rotor brush head and rake out the matted hair, it just doesn’t jam up, unlike every other pet hair vacuum rotor brush ever made (the dyson one spent more time in pieces as I picked out clums of hair that it ever did actually working).

No reason for not mentioning Glasgow, just making it more fun for folk 😉

I was trying to figure out if there was a way of the police passing on the details to the owner by post (when they have time obviously, its not a life or death situation).

Might just stick one under the filler cap, good idea!

Last time I lost a bumper, the other party offered to pay for a respray, car is quite old and reasonably battered (220k on it) so kept the job to a cheaper end of the scale place, could have been a dick and got bentley’s to do it, but I was happy, and they were happy I didn’t call the popo/insurers in on it.

Another DO NOT bother with the 1.6 comment.

Volvo use them in a few car’s and they are plagued with issues, mostly injector, DMF, EGR and regenerating convertor thing. Issues that many other modern diesels can suffer from, but with that unit, they are much more common place, and often just the cost of diagnosing exactly which (or selection of) problems it is, is enough!

It won’t be the chain on your bike as it is pretty much new

hold that thought!
Giant and spesh both fit shimano chains to a lot of their bikes and you would be amazed how many fail within the first few miles due to worn/damaged tooling at the assembly line.
Basically the joining pin isn’t fitted right and either the pin lets go of the plate or the outer plate cracks, catchs the mech and destroys wheels/frame/mech/hanger.
Shimano 105 chains are legendry, but the rest you need to be really careful of them.

also joining links, Sram don’t trust the re-usable ones so generally you can only get the black ‘permanent’ ones for them. Seen many joining links fail, esp on MTB where they are used a lot removing /cleaning/refitting the chain.

Its quite common for this to happen. Caused by either…

poor mech setup (limits not set)
damaged chain (catchs inner or outer plate on r.mech and snags it)
damaged mech hanger (if the bike falls on that side, replace the mech hanger before riding it again).

HQ fibre is who I would reccomend, sent them loads of frames requiring various repairs which are now all out there being ridden without issue. There are cheaper repair companies, but for just a seat-stay its an easy fix.

Then its just paint you have to worry abuot.

First call is bike shop/ mftr/ distro and see if they do a crash replacement though.

So are these retail/production/development samples?

My old local halfords I felt bad for the main guy there, he used to be the mechanic in an LBS that the owner retired from, so this guy was taken in by halfords…. and then not allowed to actually do anything with bikes.

If a wheel required so much as a spoke it would be returned as faulty and a new one ordered.

Reason? The store manager would not allow the workshop manager to order ANY spokes as they are ‘too much of a faff during stock take’

Schwalbe knocked out a few batchs of tyres a few years back like this, once worn and they’ve been on and off a few times they will eventually become baggy, but out of the box the schwalbe’s wouldn’t fit anything, literally the loosest tyre I’ve ever seen on a bike.

Only possible to get it to inflate with extreme sized compressor with a large diameter hose directly off the reservoir (where its >21mm pipe), so yeah thankfully they never went down!

A strap around the middle and the wheel in a frame/ wheel stand is the best way to do it without spending hours cursing tubeless

Don’t think its an issue, never heard anyone being stopped.

Hoever RM are VERY good at squashing air shocks sent back from mojo (they just put them in a jiffy bag ffs) and then not paying out despite being insured to the hilt, arse!

Evo lever (and blade) will work, it’ll give you a very slightly different feel of brake but even hope have said to me there is no world changing difference in performance between them as the tech M4 is already a stonking brake.

I got a set of brakes off a similar kid on PB, ad was with rotors, adapters & bolts, , what turned up was just brakes with a kinked hose.

Asked him and he wasn’t exactly going in the right direction, started a paypal case for partial refund and he just sent it right on through.

Just make sure you ask firt and explore every posibiity before resorting to PP claim.

Also FWIW, the difference between EVo & normal ‘tech’ levers (on the M4) is just the position of the lever pivot vs. the master cylinder (i.e. with the Evo lever blade + evo master assembly there is a little more power vs. the tech due to the position of the pivot.

There might also be a roller bearing in the lever > master interface, wheras the tech is just a lever pushing on a rod.

Ring hope or email them with pic’s and they’ll be able to shed some light on it though.

Take a rest. Like a 1 month off the bike type of rest.

I did a similar thing to myself about a year ago when I was between jobs, started riding to fill the void, then more and more until I was doing ridiculous (by my standards) weekly mileages and climbs. Got to the point where I felt just amazing doing anything and my back was the best its ever been (thanks to lots of regular time in the gym at the time).

However, if someone in the next town sneezed, Id get a kicking cold that would render me useless for 5 days at a time, when normally I have a bosse immune system (only 1 sick day in 11 years of working + uni). Doc said take a break, I did for 2 weeks, didn’t do anything. Tried again for a month and that sorted it, haven’t been ill since.

&&^^^ So I spent over £100 on legit software + hardware to do the job myself as dealer would have been on £70/hr to the tune of about 4 hours at a guess.

If its a known fault and they are doing an update, if your car has full dealer (THAT dealer as they are franchises and going from VAG dealer in town A to town B you might as well be on Mars) they often do this stuff for free or as part of an existing service.

It is fairly common, esp for Diesels and turbo/supercharged cars to have ECU updates come out at a later date to address issues.

Most dealers will charge £60-70+ VAT just to read your fault codes (which you can do with your own computer/smartphone and a £10 ebay cable at home whenever you like. But to actually connect, and change/update parameters is something worth paying for, esp if you have issues as doing it yourself unless you are familiar can lead to more trouble.

Currently running a 10 yr old diesel volvo with one of the most popular engines in it, yet none of the three local Volvo inde’s (all highly reputed) have the software to make changes to the ECU, only read its fault codes. Dealer themselves admitted they no longer have the computer capable of doing the work either, but if they did it would have been a LOT as its a ‘trial and error’ type of job requiring to be plugged in, altered, road tested, rinse repeat about 6 times!

General rule of workshops….

Bike is booked in with customers opinion of what needs done
Bike comes in and is briefly assessed to tally with what customer would like done vs. what can be seen needs done etc.
Bike is seen on specified day/slot – and assessed fully by mechanic
If within estimate given at brief inspection then proceed, if not..
Then make contact with customer to explain why the e.g. £45 estimate will not cover a rear hub service as thats found to be the culprit of dodgy shifting etc.
If no contact can be made, then personal call of do it or not is made. I.E if its a little over, e.g. estimate £40, actual £48, go for it. If nots more then do not proceed, do not pass go, do not collect £200

I’d have thought that was standard practise?
Esp with higher end bikes where you find exotic grades of bearings in them, exotic cables and pads etc, that your average LBS would just replace with standard, because either they don’t know the difference, or no matter how fancy a cable is, its still kinked/corroded/frayed/buggered and a £2 std shimano is better in that situation

Open bath forks that run in car oil = use that oil on them to clean out, and then soak for rebuild.

Sealed damper carts = I use float fluid, it lubes the stanchions under the seals and stays put for about 60-100 hours of riding. Easy job to just pop the seals clean and relube these if you feel like it between proper services.

Decathalon Triban’s are on sale most of the year, they are pretty much the best value cheap road bike there is.

Looks like most of the bargains have already gone, so much cheap stuff gone through auction already!

Great shame to see them go though 🙁

This happened to me with those guys too.

1st time I’d ridden with them, website /forum/ contact I’d made with them said they were doing a 30-40 mile ride around Coniston and other valleys, so made the long trip to join them (about 20 riders that day)

Most of the way around figure they are actually going on to add a good 15-20 miles on top with no way of shortening the route, I’m blown out and obviously suffering and its below zero, yup just got left to my own devices.

Took me about 3.5 hours to work out how to get back to the cars, and when I got there they had all gone, thanks guys….

wow, very care, much crap given, amaze!

Maxxis refuse or gatorskin / hardshell