Check the hidden Sonos diagnostics webpages mentioned in the article below.  In particular the connection matrix is especially helpful in identifying problematic connections.  As per simon_g’s post I have found wiring a single speaker to your router to act as a bridge between the Wi-Fi and Sonos mesh can help.

https://bsteiner.info/articles/hidden-sonos-interface

@edward2000

I bought these a few weeks back; they cost me £210 + £64 VAT and duty; they are intended for light weight eMTBs (but I suspect would work equally well on a full fat bike)….  https://www.bike-discount.de/en/dt-swiss-hx-1700-ls-29-30mm-boost-shimano-micro-spline-laufradsatz

Be aware that learner driver and new driver insurance are also very different things; the former being relatively cheap compared to the latter!  If they are a new driver and they are also the primary driver of the car then consider black box and pay-as-you-go insurance to keep the cost down.  My daughter has a PAYG policy with Marmalade costing £800 for the first 1000 miles and then an additional £115 for each 1000 after that.  If she keeps her mileage under 9000 miles for the year (suspect it will be much less) then this will work out cheaper than a standard policy; best quote we had was £1700ish for the year.  If her driving score goes down (sharp braking, accelerating, speeding etc) then the charge for extra miles goes up but not dramatically.

Is it an iPhone?  If so, go into Settings > Bluetooth > [Trek Bike ID] > tap on Info icon and ‘Forget This Device’ … then go back into the Trek Central app and reconnect to the bike.  I guess if it’s an Android phone then there will be an equivalent way of removing the Bluetooth connection.

@ampthill – I have a Gumotex Thaya (drop stitch model) and have previously used a Solar several times – I’ve not paddled them back to back though. I think they are both very good and don’t think there is much between them in terms of paddling efficiency – we do only use them for casual family use but have done some river trips (<10 miles). The Thaya is wider/roomier/more rigid with the drop stitch bottom and a bit more comfortable and the Solar is a little narrower and might even track a little better as it sits lower in the water (they both have a fin which helps with this). I would pick the Thaya again I think but the deal posted by @Winston up there ^ on the Solar would be hard to ignore given that the Thaya is nearly twice the price!!

I’m a long time fan of Purple Extreme… seems to last long enough for me (I do reapply regularly) and works well all year round and the drive train stays relatively clean. I tried Squirt once and didn’t get along with it either!

Tried an Assegai EXO+ MaxxGrip for the first time today on the eBike… wow! …I’m familiar with the Assegai in MaxTerra compound but this is a whole new level of grip.

Hi, I don’t see the GPX either in the Downloads section mentioned above or in the Komoot Classic Ride collection?

As per ta11pau1’s recommendation I recently pulled the plug on Sky and bought a new 1TB 4K Freesat box from Richer Sounds https://www.richersounds.com/freesat-uhd-4x-1tb.html …this was a straight swap for the SkyQ box and is compatible with the wideband LNBs required for SkyQ allowing 4 simultaneous recordings. The experience has been good so far… pausing and rewinding live TV and the EPG is almost as snappy as SkyQ but not quite as polished. The Freesat companion app is a little flakey and crashes when recordings are set… hopefully this will be fixed and it will become genuinely useful.

@Jackal …yeah, I get that it is the sidewall stiffness that makes the 215 wide tyres harsher than the 235s and not the tyre width itself. I had come to that conclusion myself but you confirmed it for me… thanks :-)

P.s. search for Devonport and not Devenport

I have a T6 California on Devonport wheels with 215 wide Contivan Contact tyres. I think it rides quite poorly (harsh on potholed and rough roads) and suspect this is a combination of the stiff sidewalls on the tyres and poor standard fit dampers. When the tyres need changing (which may be a while as the current ones are wearing slowly!) then I will probably go with 235 wide tyres for the improved ride. I will likely have upgraded the shocks to Koni Special Actives by then also… for ultimate comfort!

I have an Atera Strada Evo 3 on a T6 with Tailgate and once the rack is fully extended I have to give it a further gentle push to open the tailgate otherwise it just catches – this is made easier or even unnecessary if the rack is fully loaded. It’s not a big deal for me and the rack works really well – I have the 4th bike extension on it also.

@fatgit I would be surprised if that can’t be fixed; most (if not all) components are designed to be replaceable and Husqvarna support is pretty good in my experience. Try calling your local Husqvarna Automower dealer.

Husqvarna Automower FTW… ok, so it doesn’t satisfy the primal urge for a ride-on but it frees up a lot of extra time for riding your bike! Mine replaced a Kubota ride on with 5ft deck, so don’t underestimate the size and difficulty of garden that it can tackle. + My lawn has never looked better.

Using the Thule pro bars and a Thule roller (110cm) I can load a single Canadian canoe onto the roof of my T6 with relative ease (single handedly)… but best done with 2 people, so you don’t have to rest the canoe on the ground and top of the tailgate while you reposition yourself! The roller might not be a workable solution for loading 2 canoes though given the width.

Love my Offering with 160 fork and it’s plenty capable for welsh trail centres. I’ve never ridden a Transition so can’t offer a comparison, but it does feel a little flexy at the back end compared to previous Santa Cruz 27.5 bikes… but that could be seen as a plus and doesn’t affect my enjoyment of it! The only issue I’ve had is with the integrated chain guide which doesn’t seem to be very effective at preventing a dropped and trapped (behind the chainring) chain!!

I spent way too much time procrastinating over this question myself recently and ended up buying this Clarke kit… https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DM8QO7A?ref_=pe_3187911_248764861_302_E_DDE_dt_1

…took seconds to extract the offending bolt and left me wondering whether my procrastination time was well spent or wasted… still can’t decide :-)

This also happened to my Hope crank… Hope warrantied it and replaced the axle (not the crank) and included a note to the effect that I had not installed it correctly – pretty sure I had. Anyway, thinking back I had been re-tightening the preload ring because I kept getting play in the crank… at the time I thought the preload ring was coming loose but on reflection I think it was the other end that was coming loose (splines being pulled out of the interface) and I was just taking up the slack with the preload ring. The crank splines then failed because they were not properly seated …just a theory, I’m not an engineer! Anyway, I generally rate Hope products very highly; never had any issues with their hubs or brakes when I have had plenty of issues with other brands… now back using Shimano cranks though!

Pretty sure my life would have turned out very differently if only I had learned to wheelie at 11 …I seemed to have a talent for riding into the back of parked cars though :-)

Got the be an Evil Calling. Having test ridden back to back with a CC 5010, the Evil was a much more accomplished, not to mention entertaining, ride. About the same price [frame only] if you hunt about

As good as the 5010 is (I have a v2) this is what I would be doing having just swapped my v3 Nomad for an Evil Offering (140/160 29er)… especially if it was my only bike.

Krixmeister, this is what you need…

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-xtr-rdm9000-stabilizer-unit-y5pv98040/

I’ve had the exact same problem twice and this replacement kit fixes it. I followed Daern’s advice in this thread…

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/when-did-shimano-get-rubbish/page/2/

https://www.ebags.com/category/travel-accessories/packing-aids/packing-cubes/b/ebags

The alarm motion sensor on the T6 can be de-activated by the button on the inside of the B-pillar behind the driver’s door I think..

We have the 10cm thick Megamats and a 7.5cm one in the van and both are excellent and very comfortable… the superlatives are well deserved!

eBags packing cubes or similar for organising clothes; use different colours for each member of the family and it makes locating what you want much easier and stops you getting in a mess when rooting around for a clean pair of pants :-) We have started using Exped megamat self-inflating mattresses in place of the existing foam mattress and topper… and they are much more comfortable!!

I have a 2016 5010 v2 which is a very fun bike. I came from a Bronson V1 (L) and the 5010 (also L) felt immediately more confidence inspiring and capable but I think that was just down to the extra reach. I now ride the 5010 with a 140mm coil converted Pike and CC DB Air (long stroke giving 140mm at the rear) and it still feels just as fun and even more capable.

Have just bled my Guide RSCs with the SRAM kit.  It definitely helps to pull up on the lever syringe – in fact if you watch the SRAM video they tell you to pull the oil through from the lever this way but you should hold the caliper syringe vertical whilst doing it to stop bubbles getting back in. I think this problem has a lot to do with the stiction in the syringes they supply though as it definitely got easier after a few goes… you could try pulling the syringes apart and lubricating the rubber seals with some DOT oil before you start.  Anyway after several attempts at bleeding and cleaning pistons I now have one caliper with pistons not retracting far enough and the other where they don’t extend to the rotor… so I’m no expert!  In fact I’ve given up with them and ordered some Hope E4s :-)

Thanks for the info daern I’ll give that a try.  Agree with what you say regarding XTR and to be fair to Shimano they have replaced 2 mechs under warranty (it’s 3 years on XTR kit) with no quibbles but slow turn around.  I don’t expect stuff to last forever especially when I clean it after every ride (no pressure washer!) but these mechs do seem to be susceptible to this …must try and reign in my enthusiastic cleaning :-)  The crank failure was disappointing but as you say they are light and you can only expect so much.  As I said the shifter issue was caused by an OTB crash the first time and I think the cable got caught on something in the process.  The second time it happened was just shifting into first …maybe a little too much cable tension before the mech hit the limit stop but suspect some internal damage after the first failure made it more prone.

I’ve always been a loyal user of Shimano drivetrain but recently have been thinking about switching to SRAM after a series of failures including…

– XTR M9000 shifter – cable twice came off the cam and jammed inside the housing under excessive cable tension (caused by a crash the first time) …managed to fix this both times by the trail side.

– XTR M9020 rear mechs – I am on my 3rd mech and both previous have failed in the same way (fortunately replaced under warranty).  The clutch starts sticking so the mech stays in the forward position when shifting from gear 1 and doesn’t take up the slack in the chain.  This happens regardless of adjustment to the clutch and after I have taken it apart and thoroughly cleaned it.  I think this may be down to excessive cleaning and possible corrosion …but would be interested to hear if anyone else has experienced this?

– XTR M9020 crank – Bent (twisted) the drive side crank arm during a pedal strike …it was a fairly solid strike but I wasn’t travelling particularly fast and wasn’t expecting that kind of damage.  The Burgtec pedal only had a little superficial damage and still spun true.

I still prefer the way Shimano shifts to SRAM (marginally) but I’ve not been particularly impressed with the reliability / durability.

J273 I have a Pro + VR and the graphics on GT Sport are OK.. just OK… you can’t really compare to playing on a Full HD telly because the screen is so close to your eyes and fills almost your entire field of vision.. so it doesn’t appear to be nearly as sharp and is pixelated to some degree. The overall immersion of the game is fantastic though and you find yourself distracted by the inside of the car and ducking down to see the passing mountain tops out of the top of the passenger window :-)

I’ve had my first ride on a TFT coil converted Pike today :-) …and it’s predictably great! It’s been a long wait (they’ve had my fork for weeks) but worth it I think. This is their own conversion …they used Push seals I believe but other parts have been manufactured for them by a local engineering firm.

Had the exact same problem with mine recently. Took them apart, cleaned them (including the transfer port), noticed no damage, put them back together and they worked fine for the first descent and then back to sucking down about 15-20mm into the travel. I sent them to TF Tuned and they inspected them and found a chip in the air shaft (which I didn’t find)… now I’m waiting for a coil conversion :-)

OP, I think this is where you’ll find your answer… :-)

Gallery – Engine Conversions and Much More

We have a California for hire but are based in the West Midlands. You could try these guys, though I have no direct experience of them…

Home

Well b45her and wrecker you’re welcome to your opinions but that’s exactly how I did it! Once the bearings and inner race are gone you can bend the outer race inwards with a pick so that it comes out. I used this technique on the small upper link bearings (which are the ones prone to falling apart when using the extraction tool) – I guess that the larger lower link bearings may have thicker races which won’t be so easily persuaded.

Apparently this is quite normal (according to the chap I spoke to at Jungle when I first did it and had the exact same experience as you)… once the bearing has come apart you can just pull out the outer race with a pick tool – it’s quite thin and malleable. It is annoying that the purpose made tool doesn’t extract them effectively and gets damaged in the process though!

I happened to speak to a technician at TFT today regarding my Pike which is sticking down. He recommended that I send it in immediately for a service so that they can investigate why it is sticking and suggested that if there was internal damage then one option was for them to fit a coil… only came across this thread just now so didn’t ask any further questions but doubt that he would have mentioned this unless they could do the work immediately.

Has anyone else had their XTR 11spd shifter cable come off the cam and jam inside the shifter housing? This has happened to me a couple of times and before that happened to someone that I was riding with who had the same XTR 11spd shifter. Had to take the shifter housing off at the side of the trail (keeping a close eye on those tiny screws!) and lever the cable back onto the cam.

You should consider putting wireless access points in the dead-zones and using the existing ethernet to connect these back to your core ADSL router (star topology). Often you can configure ADSL wireless routers in “Access Point” mode and configure the same SSID on a different wireless channel so it all appears as one wireless network. I have a Draytek Vigor 2710 ADSL wireless router and AP800 Access Point configured in this way and it works well. This would be far more effective and reliable than using power line adapters.

We’ve done exactly what you describe with a Nuheat system and an existing, non-condensing combi boiler and it works really well. I’m no heating engineer but I believe that it is the condensing part of modern boilers that makes them shorter lived than older boilers.