Thanks all. I’d bought a spare wheel set years ago (funnily enough my post in this thread came up on a Google search) and as that came with MTB tyres that I had to ditch, it’d make sense that it’s 135

Might start a separate thread regards the turbo then, got a third bike (hard tail) coming soon, so will see how that fits into the turbo frame first.

It’s Cyclescheme unfortunately so not sure I can do that without taking physical posession of the bike.

I hold no grudge against the store; he was quite forthright in saying that if it’s after the deadline they can’t honour it as they’ll be losing money because of the price increase and the 10% cyclescheme cut (was a bit surprised to hear the latter mentioned as thought it was just smaller stores that tended to take umbrage as per a comment of mine much further up – this is a main Giant dealer). They did say they’re only expecting around 1/4 to 1/3 of the bikes they need for this year.

Fingers crossed anyway but if it costs more, it costs more, just want the bike (and that’s the positive message I gave the chap).

Don’t suppose anyone can trace the original rear hub spec from the Evans site for the 2015 Arkose 2?

I’ve found ‘Alex ATD-490 32H rims, Joytech hubs’

I’m using mine on my turbo at the moment and I’m noticing my old Specialised hard rock (my partner is using) seems a much tighter fit on the turbo. Trying not to have to adjust/faff too much when changing bikes.

I get the feeling the Arkose may be 130mm rather than 135mm (hence it ‘compresses’ less in the turbo frame). Or am I overcomplicating a simple tape measure job?

Gave the LBS a call, it’s been delayed another three weeks. They’re holding off on price rises for now/suffering them, themselves, but will be passing them on from the middle of next month. Nip and tuck as to whether it will get delivered in time.

I’ll report back if I hear any clarification on whether it’s payable or not. I put a 10% cash deposit down at the time (which they’ve still got) and I’ve got a Cyclescheme voucher worth £700 so one way or another it’ll get resolved.

Just slightly annoying that it’s upping the cost of a bike that will likely never see anything tougher than a gravel path, but wanted a 1×10 and decent level components so that’s how we arrived at this one.

I think while gyms remain shut, demand will still be through the roof. I’m a fair weather rider myself (unashamedly) but put the turbo back up in December and resubscribed to Zwift, and making use of my Pinnacle Arkose with some road tyres.

My partner bless her is having to make do with my old 2011 26” Hardrock Disc Sport with some semi slicks on the turbo, hence wanting this Liv ASAP.

I spoke to the LBS earlier and credit to them, there’s been a very unclear message from Giant as to when/if the increase is applied to pre orders.

Will wait with baited breath, I’m saving a few quid on C2W anyway and at least they were willing to reserve a bike for me that was 6 weeks away.

Re other points – The small shop most local to me said there was no motivation for him to move heaven and earth for a C2W bike when he could sell it at retail ten times over. I get the sentiment and appreciate the honesty but was worried I’d be stuck with the voucher to be honest.

Fab thank you. I think I’ll just grab another SRAM cassette then to keep it consistent.

Jameso with apologies I need your guidance again.

As you said, those tyres were too thick for my Arkose 2 2015. Not a problem, I’ve moved the stock WTB nano 40c ones to the new rims, along with the existing brake rotors.

This is where I’m a little stuck, all with regards to cassette spacers. I moved the stock SRAM 1020 (presumably same as 1030) cassette across as well. Compared against the other wheels, it seemed to sit at the same height. Torqued it down to 40nm.

In the bike repair stand, in 9th gear it almost feels as if it’s not indexed properly. But it’s fine on a ride and there’s no free play in the cassette.

So long story short – are the stock alexrims/joytech hubs designed for 10 or 11 speed? Assuming they’re 10 as there was no spacer behind the cassette, if I pick up the Shimano HG81 from Evans, for the original wheels, do I need a 1mm spacer?

I’ve got an HG81 on my MTB that I converted from 3×8 to 1×10 and that didn’t need one.

thanks

edit: or does all this spacer stuff only apply to road wheels? :)

No worries thanks for the reply.  The existing WTB nanos can go on the new wheels, I’ll stick my slicks on the original wheels, and I’ll have a hunt for a cheap cassette and pair of brake rotors.  Hopefully don’t need anything else but it’s been a long time since I’ve assembled bike bits so off to YouTube I go.

I’ll stick the other tyres on eBay to make a few quid back.

Am I going to get these on my 2015 Arkose 2?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/wtb-ranger-tcs-light-fast-rolling-mtb-tyre/rp-prod143469?gs=1&sku=sku567272&pgrid=55297464169&ptaid=pla-427507831668&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sgDO3imig_dc|pcrid|254158694146|pkw||pmt||prd|567272UK

Seemed to cheap to pass up, the specs on the Q&A on the site for the bike suggest the hub is 135 at the back and 100 at the front.

I believe the WTB 40c nanos are on 17mm rims by standard.

Looks like the tyres included with the wheels are 2.25 and on 19mm rims.

Plan if the tyres can’t go in, is to put my 28c tyres on the stock rims for road use/turbo training, and I’ll move the Nanos across to these new rims?

Thanks

^ Have you tried a round non-wavy rotor? ie an older Shimano or Avid G2.

If that makes no difference try sighting up the slot with a light behind, so you can see the gap between pad and rotor. Best to do this with fresh pads in rather than some that have worn in to match the rotor. Check how parallel the pads + rotor are. If the pads/caliper is too far off the rotor plane it can cause vibration, particularly with any wavy rotors. Facing the mount will fix it.

Took the pads out on the front and back (see a little further down). Ensured all bolts tightened up, also re-centred the rear caliper one more time.

Was still happening.

Went round with a spoke key (not with the aim of adjusting – I’m nowhere near that skilled) but just to see if anything was loose. As it turns out, it seems I had a very loose spoke on the back. One (and only one) was effectively under no tension.

Done it up, and all seems fine now. A little bit of brake squeal from the rear but I have just sanded down the rotors and pads so we’ll see how that settles down. Put a dab of Ceratec brake grease on the back of the pads (where the piston makes contact) just to be on the safe side.

Did look reasonably parallel – for what it’s worth, this was the condition of the pads http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f90/Bossworld/k610/0C5D1ED9-829C-47C9-990A-EFCB2FEB9172_zpswvazzapi.jpg Looks as though it wasn’t engaging toward one edge of the pads, so hopefully a sand down/level off might help slightly.

Thanks again for your help.

Saw another Arokse 2 2015 round Whitley Bay last week too! :)

Sorry to come back to this (other posts on the previous page). Haven’t been on my 2015 Arkose 2 since September, which was roughly a couple of months after I reported rear braking issues.

Went out for a short 12 miler on Saturday as the weather is improving, with the WTB 40c tyres back on. The rear brake rumble/shudder is back with a vengeance.

When I took it in the last time, they said the pads were badly glazed and sanded them down. I think this made it better albeit not fully solved. I’ve tried realigning the caliper a couple of times but it hasn’t helped.

Just wondering what to do next. The bike is less than a year old but I don’t know if this sort of thing would still be under warranty. I was thinking of trying to swap the front and rear pads to see if that makes a difference first of all, as the front doesn’t vibrate at all. My LBS (about half the distance to Gateshead) is offering half price servicing this month, but other than the rear brake, everything is running beautifully so that seems overkill.

Took it in today, they were very helpful. Had a call a couple of hours later to say it was the pads were glazed, although having had a quick go tonight, there’s a lot more travel in the rear lever now so I’m guessing they’ve bled it slightly as well (fine by me).

My 2 year old had her heart set on the 14″ Pinnacle and wouldn’t leave it alone in the store but we’ve got the 12″ balance bike on order so hopefully come the weekend she’ll be able to match me in lime green.

Cheers folks.

It’s markedly worse when you’ve got the brake lever half pulled under normal braking. If you slam on, the rear will skid and doesn’t really rumble.

Was able to simulate it while moving the bike around the garden without my weight on it by half pulling on the lever. Similarly, if you’re on the bike stationery, put the rear brake say 75% on, when you push your weight forward, you get a clunk clunk clunk as the pads try to prevent the disc moving. I think it’s at that stage – wondering if possibly a sticky piston as you’d get on a car or as you say, not perfectly straight?

Haven’t got spares to be playing with (MTB is 26″) so was hopeful the shop can do that sort of thing. As above will report back, grateful for the advice and pointers. The front doesn’t exhibit the same issue, albeit the front brake isn’t anywhere near as sharp (i think this is normal for bikes)?

Cheers Andy will bear it in mind – I’m loathe to do too much to it myself seeing as it’s nearly new but will see what Evans Gateshead come back with.

Jameso – thank you for the reply. I’ll report back with how it goes.

There’s not a squeal and the only noise is the rumble/judder, the bike only gets used in the dry (the MTB is for rubbish weather duty). I’ve got some disk brake cleaner spray which I tried a few weeks ago but hasn’t made a difference – the brakes were bedded in properly as well. I wondered if it was something to do with the hub or spokes but that’s well beyond my technical ability – I fitted a 1×10 drivetrain and the shimano brakes to my MTB but that’s the max of my skills.

The QR is done up tight and the wheel seems to run freely without catching on the brake – I’m assuming the ticking is just the design of the hub?

Have put an order in for a Pinnacle balance bike for the bairn (in matching lime green of course) so I’m desperate for mine to be tip-top.

Quick request if anyone can help.

Picked up a 2015 Arkose 2 back in April 2016. I’ve only put about 150 miles on it since.

When it went in for its 6 week service (after about 8 weeks due to crap weather and not being able to get out on it), they had to bleed the front brake as it was catching on the rotor.

Since then (again I’ve only been out a handful of times because of a foot injury so I’ve had to stick to my MTB), I’ve noticed that when I use the rear brake, there’s a horrendous shudder through the frame. It had been there before, but I’d put it down to the Kryptonite lock mount – however after a 20 miler without the lock, it’s clearly something else.

It’s worse when you use the front brake at the same time. It’s quite easy to lock and skid the rear wheel so there’s obviously enough bite there, but the judder is putting me off riding the bike.

It’s a shame because I stuck some cheap M353 hydraulics on my MTB and TBH they’re 10 times better then the brakes on this Arkose – I’d gone for the Arkose because I wanted hydraulics on a roadie/CX type bike.

Rang the Gateshead store and they advised to bring it in, but am I likely to be charged for it being looked at, given that it’s past it’s 6 week check period, or do they come with some sort of warranty?

Any pointers/help gratefully received.