Thanks all. Backed the screw out as above by 1 full turn on both sides, just as a test measure. The front wheel spins around for a good 10 seconds or so, the rear for longer once driven.

I’ll take it out for a couple of rides and if a problem, now I know what to do (lever port cover off, push pistons back).

Thanks both. I don’t think I can get the bucket on there as there’s the drop hoods in the way and haven’t got a long enough extension in my bleed kit (used the two syringe method yesterday)

I’ll have another look at getting a bit of fluid out.

Just been trying to help my sister in law with a similar conundrum.

For us, both kids started on a 12″ wheeled Pinnacle balance bike. My daughter then ended up with a hefty Halfords Apollo “Cherry Lane” princess-style bike (16″ wheels) for her fifth birthday. That’s because I’d bought a Kona Makena 20″, widely reviewed at the time as one of the smallest framed 20″ bikes, but was still significantly too big for her at that point. That lasted her until she was 8, but realistically she was done with it by 7 and was using 24″ frog bikes for Bike4Health at school.

I replaced it with a 27.5″ wheeled GT Avalanche which is a little big for her, but there was no way I was going to play about with 24″ or 26″ at that point as it would have lasted months. She is tall for her age though.

Her brother went from the Pinnacle to a 14″ lightweight Halfords bike by the time he was 4. He took on the Kona pretty soon after turning 5 and he’s been fine with it. I will be buying him a 24″ bike for his 7th birthday though. In due course, he can take the GT Avalanche from his sister and she’ll probably take the missus’ underused Liv Tempt.

So very long winded answer, I reckon you’ll get two years out of a 20″ bike unless your child stays short for their age.

I can’t believe you’d use the p word, uncensored, on a public bike forum!

Nah in all seriousness, the front looks to be some kind of thru axle on a standard allen bolt, but removing the rear has its own multi-page section in the owners manual. Cross everything and touch wood…

Thanks walleater, sounds like the voice of experience!

I bled them this morning and the fronts took two goes. The lever port is on the side which means the usual attachments wouldn’t fit. In the end fashioned something out of the connectors I had and it was a tight enough fit to work with the two syringe method.

Been on a ten mile pootle and they’re noticeably better now, still not superb but I’ll live with them.

Had to remove the calipers as not worth the chew on to remove the wheels. Nearly stripped a bloody mounting bolt such is the lack of access.

I’ve had real mixed eperiences with TRP/Tektro. The Hylex drop mounted hydraulics on my Pinnacle Arkose 2 are nothing short of superb. Haven’t bled them since new (2016), and done several thousand miles, though I did swap the pads for the normal Shimano B01s.

The Tektro M275? fitted to my partner’s Covid-shortage era Liv Tempt 1, are shocking. Same brakes on my eldest’s GT Aggressor (a third of the cost of the Liv) and they’re ‘OK’. I thought most hydraulics would be comparable (or at least not as bad as I remember Avid BB5 cable discs), but yeah, take your point. Even the cheapest Shimano M355s I’ve had in the past have been great, and certainly better than the ones on this new bike.

There’s an awful lot of internal routing on the Specialized though so would be a chew on to change them out.

If you can find an older second hand one, my kids used a Kona Makena, which seems to be one of the smaller sized frame 20″ bikes.

My lad’s been absolutely riding it everywhere since he was 5 1/2, think my daughter was on it from 6.

https://99spokes.com/en-GB/bikes/kona/2017/makena

Thanks all. Been a busy day of DIY, stupidly thought I’d attempt the changeover tonight while tired and I completely missed the little attachment fitted my crank puller (for Octalink, which was the last time I used it).

I’ve mashed the existing cranks further onto the arms and there’s no shifting them, plus it’s stripped the thread. They were headed for the parts bin anyway but I’m going to have to break out the angle grinder tomorrow I think.

Might take the opportunity to grab one of the Hollowtech 2 clone sets instead that GeForce Junky posted.

Re: crank arm length, it’s a 27.5″ wheel bike, interesting read though. Just trying to go like for like as she was OK on it crank wise before I started tinkering.

Thanks for replies.

GeForce Junky/Steve_B – It looks like they’re all pretty much from the same factory then? Good to hear positive things.

Trail_rat, I did wonder about that, presumably just a case of adjusting the H and L screws? None of my bikes as an adult have had a front derailleur so wasn’t sure if leaving it there would lead to chainline issues?

Side note was also going to take the opportunity to drop the remaining front to a 30T or 32T.

Chestrockwell – I’ll have a look thanks. I know on my old Hardrock the crankset could be dismantled and I just stuck a narrow wide on that, but this Tourney thing is all riveted together sadly.

Coming back to this in case anyone else is affected by similar in the future.

I bought some 9/16″ 1.2mm aluminium spacers off ebay, approx £3 for a pack of 10. The seller initially sent out copper so had to ask for replacements (I think copper and aluminium cause galvanic corrosion in the presence of water)?

I did a test with one fitted to the drive side, two fitted to the non-drive side.

First discovery was that it was difficult to remove the pedals even after a couple of months, and had to get a 3 foot breaker bar out. I’d originally done them up using a torque wrench, believe Shimano give the range as 35nm to 55nm and I’d have gone for the middle.

Test fit – they started to deform after 35nm, to the point where there would be negligible benefit in the spacing they’d offer.

Took them back out and had to use side cutters to remove the washers as they wouldn’t pass over the thread anymore.

A few experiments later and torquing up to 36nm, the problem I had clipping out is resolved. That does confirm that the 1mm or so that the SPD interface is closer to the crank arm on the T8000s, causes a problem with larger feet/shoes, that isn’t present on the ME700s.

I couldn’t get an accurate reading with the torque wrench on the drive side, despite cleaning off all grease and starting again I wasn’t getting an obvious click, even with the smaller wrench on a lower setting.

So all patched up but it doesn’t take much force with a wrench to loosen the bolts. Not sure whether that’s because they’re freshly disturbed or because the pedals are now mating against a washer rather than the crank. The rotational direction of pedals should prevent any ‘naturally occurring’ issues and I imagine a lot of home bike mechanics don’t have torque wrenches.

I’m tempted to buy some titanium ones I’ve seen listed on Amazon but I’d think they’d still deform under similar pressure?

Don’t think so mate, they did come with a set of SH56s (multi) which I’ve left unused but the pedal manual states you can use either SH51 or SH56.

As I say with a tape measure there’s an approx 1mm difference to the centre point, looking at my other pedals, I reckon when I get around to figuring out a washer that’ll sort it

I don’t think I’ve cleared more than 33mph, but all my proper bikes are 1x and I don’t do much road riding. Was pretty chuffed getting up to 23.4mph on the Brompton the other night tbh

Looks like my edit disappeared in the browsing problems I was having yesterday.

I got the tape measure out and the centre point of the SPD interface on the pedal, is about 1mm closer to the crank arm on the T8000s, than the ME700s.

I’m wearing size 12 Adidas Velosamba so I’ve very little clearance to the crank arms when clipped in anyway, but it seems it’s even closer with the T8000 Pedals.

Tension is fully backed out, I’ve always made that same adjustment when fitting all three models of Shimano SPD pedals I’ve owned. Same shoes don’t cause me an issue on the ME700 pedals.

Will try and source a 1mm washer, thanks folks.

Good luck to you all. My mum messaged me this morning about this, hadn’t heard of it before so I suspect she’d watched the Look North piece.

Echoing others, Kielder is a lovely place but the one time I’ve been on a bike, I’ll quote my mate “I’d have been drier if I’d gone in the bath”. Looking through the FAQs, taking a mobile phone is a good idea, if not a tad optimistic, there’s not much in the way of signal.

Hope everything goes well

Tempted to replace the brakes on my partner’s Liv Tempt 1 but they’re also Tektro, albeit a lower model.

But they’re completely lacking in bite or power – Tektro TKD 149, hydraulic, even in comparison to cheapy Shimanos.

Don’t suppose anyone’s got experience of both? Chunkleton’s post has got me thinking I might not be the issue here.

I’ve now got five steadyracks, two fitted and three waiting to go up. They’re superb. Worth an eye on eBay and Merlin as they’re sometimes reduced to the £50 mark

Thanks. Learning something new every day, hadn’t thought to drop it to dismount each time but still need the substantial reduction in height otherwise I’ll forever be fiddling. Glad to hear the bike seat tube is longer than expected.

I’ve ordered the 100 and will try the three of yours pedalling advice once I’ve got it fitted, as can probably move it up away from the seatpost collar a little too.

Nope, first time mate. Also first time buying a bike largely unsighted/untested, so lesson learned for me there (I did see an XL H30 in the flesh but didn’t get chance to get on it).

Forgive any terminology mistakes but I’ve got the bottom collar of the dropper pretty much on on the main seat post clamp, so perhaps a size L bike would have done me OK and meant I could have used longer dropper travel, but what’s done is done now and sizing chart wise, I was at the absolute top end of the L, and from test sitting on it in the garage until I find my spare helicopter tape, the reach feels good on the XL.

I got the tape measure out when I got back from London last night and stopped it at various lengths. The full 150mm puts me too high when pedalling and I can’t get on and off the bike safely.

I could have just about squeezed a 125 post but I’m still at risk of falling off the bike trying to dismount, and worst case, I’ll just shift the main shaft of the dropper post upwards slightly to compensate, at the cost of not being able to drop it as close to the top of the seat tube.

Yeah it’s a 150mm on the XL model as was called out. A bit frustrating as the XL was billed as being OK for people an inch shorter than me but I suppose we’re all different builds aren’t we.

100mm will do me absolutely fine, pretty much fully inserted. Ordered one from CRC for £50. Will dismantle current bits when it gets here as I need to figure out if I’ll need to run a new cable, guess it depends on how it attaches to the existing one.

Thanks for all the help.

Echoing others I’ve just bought a 2022 Oiz H10 TR for £2855 due to C2W overheads. Haven’t had chance to ride it yet but sure looks pretty.

In case that post was ambiguous, “put feet on the floor” as in just being able to put the ball of my stretched right (usually) foot down on the floor when stationary.

Without going down a rabbit hole of bike fit articles.

Regardless, it looks like the answer is a different dropper.

Thanks all, back home on Friday so will check then. Only thing to be cautious of is that the Orbea website is now showing the 2023 version and there have been a few spec changes to my 2022 model, but tape measure will give a definite answer.

Cheers mate, I need to measure the whole thing when I’m back home on Friday, as it’s more or less already on the seatpost clamp. Sadly only took one photo after assembly yesterday with the post at an “OK” height for me to put feet on the floor

When it’s actuated and it’s fully dropped it’s obviously far too low to sit and pedal, so I’m comfortable the frame is an OK fit for me.

But I’m wondering if it’s a longer drop than the quoted 125, on the XL frame? Only one way to find out.

Thanks both, will have to wait for another month financially. Presumably mine will have some resale value

So the Orbea has arrived and it’s even nicer in the flesh, I’ve put the handlebars together, lubed the chain and fitted some new XT T8000 pedals.

Haven’t had chance to ride it yet and I’m away the next couple of days, but sat on it in the garage like an excited kid on Christmas day…

One question I had – this is my first ever dropper seat post. The reach on the XL frame is fine, but even with the base of the seatpost inserted all the way, when I flick the lever for the dropper to rise, the max height is way to high for me.

Do I just have to use my weight to stop it going full extension or can they be modified to limit the travel, or do I need to budget for a new seatpost?

Tried Googling it, it’s apparently “OC MC20 Mountain Control Dropper, 31,6mm, 125mm travel” but others suggest it’s similar to a ‘Brand-X’ so presumably somewhat generic.

Thank you

Echoing mattsccm, my Arkose 2 (1×10 admittedly) is now coming up for 7 years old, and I’ve never touched the indexing on the bar end shifter since new. It’s been bombproof, and Strava’s showing 1700 miles covered.

I think microSHIFT and SRAM sell other bar end levers if you wanted to try another.

The TRP Hylex are great though.

Presumably the reason they’re not taking CycleScheme orders until later in the year as well?

I had some excellent help on here recently with an almost identical set of changed components and similar issues with jumping.

Mine was the other end of the cassette but transpired it was just that the 13t and 11t teeth were worn down, the derailleur and hanger weren’t the issue. Swapped those two cogs out for new Shimano items and it shifted beautifully.

All other advice on the thread seems spot on but it’s a costly bit of troubleshooting to eliminate things. If you’ve access to another cassette (even temporarily, as in my case) got to be worth a try in case that penultimate cog is worn?

Reviews on CRC say 34t max, mate

I had to give up and move on. CRC/Wiggle aren’t taking CycleScheme again until H2 2023. Gone for an Orbea Oiz H10 TR instead

I’ve been exploring light trail bikes for weeks.

The Bomber Z2 was on the cheaper Marin bike I was looking at, the Pike Ultimate fitted to the more expensive bike. The Pike was very highly reviewed across the board.

Sorry to read this. Without being clinical, agree with the others advising you go down the legal route ASAP.

A very good friend had a messy split from his wife, I helped him move out on the day while his (now ex) father in law monitored our every move and I felt sick to the pit of my stomach. He’s sadly needed to call on that legal agreement several times so it’s been a good thing it’s in place.

To bring a couple of threads to a hopeful close, I’ve gone for the Orbea Oiz 2022 H10 TR. JE James didn’t actually have stock but another retailer does, and after C2W surcharge it’ll come out at £2855 (RRP was £3499 last year).

I wasn’t totally happy with the compromise of the old HG hub on the Sonder, and the low spec SRAM brakes, though the fork looks absolutely top spec for the current £2399 custom build.

I think the Oiz is as lightweight as I can get in the absence of the Vitus being available and it’s full of Shimano XT bits, with Deore brakes. As to points made on this thread (and the other one), thanks everyone, I think XC is probably right for me. I’ve seen an XL H30 in the flesh and while I’m slightly concerned about the longer reach, the standover height looks more than fine.

To your point, JE James have got the Oiz H10 TR in stock in an XL for £2.6k so have dropped them a message to see if any top up/wiggle room.

Have got a quote lined up for the Sonder, though they didn’t want to shift on any pricing (quoted £100 to swap just the rear mech to GX, which is more expensive than buying one seperately)

Thanks Chakaping. I was headed down the XC route with the Vitus but can’t get hold of one until they reintroduce CycleScheme so think that’s off the cards.

The Orbea and Spark 960/970 seem to be on offer around the £2k mark but think i might hit this C2W surcharge issue again, which then brings me back to the Sonder as a short travel trail/XC bike. The discount on the Pike Ultimate on the custom build seems to be worth the comparative savings on a 2022 Oiz/Spark. The obvious difference I can see on the XC ones is the ability to lock the fork and shock out; I’m finding it really difficult to find weight figures for some of them online but the Sonder is approx 14kg. The Oiz H30 is lighter but out of budget, where as the H20 is heavier.

Appreciate a lot of this is just me speaking out loud as it were, but seems like there’s a small pool of bikes to look at, will have another comparative look at the Orbea range.

Thanks Joe, I’m headed over to the Alpkit store this weekend. They wouldn’t go up to GX groupset for less than £500 more, but will ask from a cassette perspective for the reasons you mention. I did see an online review mentioning they’d moved up to a Cane Creek rear shock but suppose I’ve only got £100 to play with so may just see if I can get the brakes upgraded instead.

Heard back re: the Marin and due to C2W overheads they’ll do it for £2100. I think the Sonder with the Pike Ultimate is probably the better buy.

I want to try a FS and it gives me the option to do some trail riding (if time ever allows). My partner has a Liv Tempt 1 HT so though it’s a little small for me, means I’ve still got the option in the house.

Now looks like a straight shootout between the Marin and the Pike-equipped Sonder – I can’t use CycleScheme on the Ripley.

If it helps anyone else looking – There is a Bird build that comes in at £2500 but I think it’s more bike than I need

Shimano Deore 12
RockShox Yari RC
SRAM G2R brakes
RaceFace non dropper seatpost

Thanks I’ll contact Sonder/Alpkit tomorrow, I saw there’s a store at the MetroCentre so actually seeing one in the flesh would be handy. As you say they might be amenable to changing up the groupset with the extra £100.

I think I’m getting drawn into the Bird only because it’s carbon and because of the discount, rather than any actual need. It’s probably daft to consider adding extra cost.

Ariel looks really interesting but similar kit to the Marin, but £500 more as a 2023 model?

Thanks all, similar thoughts then.

I ran a 26″ HT from 2011 till last month but I’ve got a gravel bike for commuting and road/pottering about use, so fancy something substantially different that can still handle the odd commute. My era of FS seemed to suffer with weight and pedalling bob which sounds like it’s much less of an issue these days, so thought I’d go FS.

I might drop Alpkit a message and see if they’ve any wiggle room, it’s a shame the groupset seems to drag the mid priced Cortex down but guess something has to give.

The Marin is only available in Large, which is a bit borderline for me at 6′ 2″ but depending on CycleScheme surcharge means I’ve got some change for some T8000 Pedals and some upgrades. Bit frustrating it’s not Microspline on the rear hub.

The Bird is interesting because (rightly or wrongly) it seems they’ll let you pay the difference in C2W voucher and the cost. It seems like it’s proper overkill for my needs but at least it’d be supporting a local company and seemed a genuine discount. Taking the fork down to the cheapest one and downgrading the brakes gets you to 2700

Wiggle are now citing 2nd half of 2023 for CycleScheme to be accepted on their site again. So that’s probably the Rapide off the cards sadly, as I imagine the 2023 version will cost more than I’ve got to spend.

I’ve been trawling around for anything comparable online -light(er)weight/carbon/shorter travel, and the only things I’ve found are either a ‘Cube Stereo 150 C:62 Race 29’ which comes in over budget, or this one from Decathlon, which doesn’t seem worth the £250 premium over the Rapide in general? https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/29-inch-full-suspension-carbon-mountain-bike-rockrider-xc-900-white/_/R-p-325040?mc=8614815

Has anyone spotted any 2022 sale bikes that might fit the bill? Or do I need to give up on the idea of sub 13kg on my budget and just go for something like the Cube One22 Race?

Many thanks

Three

My Pinnacle Arkose gravel or whatever the modern term is, which works great for commuting, sprint triathlons and general potting about.

A Brompton M6L, for commuting around London.

A MTB, which I’m currently without at the minute and on the lookout for the next purchase. Planning to finally go full suss after all these years on a HT.