As for the crank bolts, I always use anti-seize.

Here's what Middleburn supply with their self-extracting crankbolts (steel and Ti, although they have stopped making ti now due to the big cost increase)

"Apply anti-seize compound to the thread of the bolt…Apply Loctite 222 locking compound (purple) to the threads of the Self-Extract cap…check the tightness of …bolts after first ride and periodically afterwards"

ByStickle

Warranty replacement straight from Niner Bikes, marked as so, and .99c value

Free to my door

about the same as Lenz money then

Website must be Japs eye friendly boom tish

2.3K is alot of dosh though

Nearly had me going there with a HTA of ~69, but then spotted the CS length of nearly 18" 🙁

Yeah–rr–ss—ssss!!!

It works!!!!

Bluddy 'ell!! They don't ell you all that in the instructions do they!!??

Once again STW prevails

Many thanks all

Happy Trails!

Ahh! £50 for the memory map…

No other way to convert?

So, a 'track' or breadcrumb trail is recorded as you ride your new trail you want to record.

It seems like, as abductee says this track needs to be saved on the devise as a route for the devise to be able to navigate you next time.

I haven't been able get a track to save as a route, in both Garmin base camp or otherwise. I will now try memory map

Think I'm getting a bit closer – I hadn't saved the track to make it into a route. It's only a route you can ask it to navigate.

Hey JB, what condition is your UN54? I'm interested

I run MB's sq taper and really don't think spending ~£150 on a Phil or Royce is worth it (& I did buy a Phil a while back)

Here's a nice chap who has one for a fiver, which will last between 1 & 3 years

I spoke to CTBM a couple of days ago for the first time. Nice friendly chap. Efficient too, dealing with what I after.

I had imagined him to be a old skool roadie turned 29er SSer, 50 with a beard in a dusty office

Instead he sounded months younger. Probably still a 29er SSer though 😉

Your link is one I hadn't heard of – they've got a What Mountain Bike Clent Hills loop in there too!

Middleburn specify 28-32 ftlbs for their square taper crank bolts

OP – see if you can borrow a torque wrench to get a feel of how tight that torque is. If you mess up your crank arm or crank it will cost you more than a torque wrench

As for greasing or not greasing. Shimano supply their BB's with grease on the tapers, Phil Wood specify using grease (thin smear of course) to facilitate fit on their square BB's.

Phil Wood's BB installation instructions say:

"Clean and lightly oil the ends of the spindle, the square holes in the crankarms, and the crankarm mounting bolts. Install the crankarms securely on the spindle."

However:

One theory…

The taper on a BB spindle and crank is a press fit mechanism. The friction between the crank arm and the spindle causes the arm to slide on so far for a given amount of torque on the crank bolt. If you grease the spindle, the crank arm can slide farther onto the spindle, farther than it was designed to. The result is that the taper on the spindle forces the taper on the crank to expand. Multiple installations like this will cause the crank to move closer and closer to the BB shell, altering chainline and eventually ruining the crank when you pull the spindle all the way through the arm. BMXman

My take might be something like

steel spindle + alloy arm = no grease
steel spindle + steel arm = grease
titanium spindle + any arm = anti-seize

GPS sharing noob Q (& slight hijack)?

What is the most popular route sharing site?

EB's brake, the spring part brakes and the pedal falls off it's spindle and the bearings are hopeless on all but the most pricey Ti ones. Quite annoying if you're on a group ride and it's no-one left behind.

Times I found pretty good. I liked them for their simplicity but the cleats cannot be multi-directional released, the grip of them is un-nerving it's so tight, but I suppose you may get used to that.

So, it was back to good ol' spd's for me. 540's for the HT and 647's platforms for FS. They've been on for the past 5 years and only dabbed a bit of lube of them occasionally.

SPD engagement was better than the Times and EB's

I usually nip over the yard and get the chap there to use his compressor to seal it. I always try first though and 50% of the time they seal. He wasn't there today, so the struggle and then using the tube was a good lesson.

but you've got a compressor!

The tube tip has just worked – got it sealed up

Pumped up the tyre to 50psi and left it for a few mins to stretch, then took the tube out of 1 side, washed up the bead again and it went up

I feel your pain – just been 25 minutes outside trying to get a 29" Fire XC Pro sealed onto a Stans rim – washing up liquid everywhere, sweating as much as if I was on a ride. Gave up.

The tyre has been in the shed for 12 months and was a bit deformed and stiff which I think was 1 factor. Cold didn't help pliability either.

I think once the tyre has sealed once (perhaps with the inner tube method and expand and stretched, it might well seal alot easier…

Remote. 1" then all the way 4" down.

Now we're talking

7. Just 3 more to go

OK stu that's 6 we're up to (with del!)

The 2.25 is reviewed a disappointing performer, esp alongside the 2.4

Nice one ton,

we're up to 5 definite now

I asked for interest in the 2.4 – see post #48 here

I need to order 10 to make things worthwhile (hoping for ~£27 ea but will more likey be ~£30). Up to 5 so far

Could just order one from say George at Bike29

Cost yer £40+ though all in

that link is for the 2.25

FRC – Ardent 2.4?

DS – RR 2.4 is super fast for sure, but for winter the Ardent sounds a capable fat fast roller

Rorschach – Member

Maxxis ardent 2.4's…I'm in the process of persuading/mithering mma to bring them in to the country.Aspen 2.25's will be in for easter (but not many so be quick).

Well done. How likely is it looking? There's alot who want those Ardents

The 2.55 WW's don't come up very big – not as big as the RR 2.4

Great. I bought an as new eTrex c/w bike bar mount, usb cable and upgraded maps. Should be here in a couple of days

Looking forward to it. I'm mainly after being able to go somewhere and ride an unfamiliar trail (as well as recording my local trails for anyone who wants them)

Thanks for all the help, it's made it all alot clearer 🙂

So, with the etrex can you upload a route you have completed, and would this be viewed in the software uplink suggested in the post above, along with the map underlayed?

(apologies once again for thick questioning)

Great input, thanks

What is the S/W you refer to?

Is it a problem you cannot use Multi Maps on your device?

Lenz

Thanks. What device would I need to use your route?

phiil, could you repost your linky pls. its not working

Gilles – let's do it

Might have to wait till spring first though 😉

Z – it wouldn't be the best route. for best riding one needs local help

hey boogie man, cool, thanks. Is that the same as the BOT route?

All i need now is a GPS device 😀