My outgoing single pivot bike can not be dialed without some bob, even with pro-pedal on a RP23. The more air squeezed in the more it just ramped up and became more and more like a HT. I think single pivot suits a certain terrain (perhaps more rocky/ledgey slower chunk, steep), but for more XC with climbing, faster descents not so good, as you would get bob on the climbs, and then brake jack/packing up on the fast descents, with more front wheel weight.

The complex multi-link systems I've tried (Giant's Maestro and Niner's CVA) are efficient, firm, with no bob or need for PP. Tracked better, no bottomless feeling, and also a disconnected trail feel

As long as you realise what you're getting into, and it suits your riding, all's well and you wont be disappointed

Ahh, I'll never be in the TOS league will I – Hoping to make both of those rides

I can accept the shifting under load, but the other occasion was JRA

Nah Mick – it's more a case of me having to take over the thighs of steel mantle 😯

Well, today's was sitting pedaling up a steep and trying to drop onto the granny as I found myself in slippery mud.

The one before that one was on my HT, standing going up another steep. HT set up 1×9 – went with a bang that one

10.3m
29.1 mph
2hrs 11m (1hr 26 moving)

40mins lost somewhere 🙄 😉

It was class entertainment 😉

High speed down from Worcestershire Beacon and Mark missed a drop off, or rather went OTB over it. As we didn't know each other that well, I held back the belly laughter. Luckily it was on a grassy bit

Thanks for the tour – brilliant weather for it

See you at 10-15 at Quarry CP

The most obvious is the Malvern Hills to Worcester, or do you live there?

You need a guide for the Wyre Forest otherwise you will get lost, end up on fire roads and then give up.

Other possible areas are Clent Hills (local to me), which drains very well, and Kinver. Both scenic with decent riding

😆 😯

😆 😆 😆 😆

ton'n'wooltights

I have a BNWT Endura MT500 Burner shorts size L if your interested – a good inbetween the two 🙂

Who's lab-gear's UK distributor?

I have two lab-gear full marinos – great gear, good fit, but does get very sweat wet

I think the GE stuff is hard to beat

vondally did you have any good ones, and which ones?

flyingfox can you recommend anything particular in that fabric?

Second the fragile thing – these expensive tops do rip, and easily

I have a BaBaa T – it's OK, but doesn't come up long enough in the body, and the fit is not the best

I've taken to wearing it for everyday in this coold weather and it's very good indeed for that duty

I have Ground Effect Merino (woll/poly mix) and also pure merino.

If your sole objective is pong free, then by only by a small margin, the pure wool gets the nod, but the mix wicks quite a bit better, while maintaining all the benefits of wool

He doesn't build steel anymore. Says for the price it's so worth spending a little extra and going ti, so that's his focus now.

Make of that what you will

I was in contact with him for a time last summer both on the phone and email and he seemed a top gent.

he's about to get my order

Thanks Brant, that's very reassuring.

My only doubt was the use of 'standard' straight gauge 3AL/2.5V grade 9 titanium tubing with a 'big' for a 29er 120 TA Reba and if this would make for a flexy ride…?

Bigsi – I'll bear you in mind… it's soon

Here's my back boiler Burl's… which has just had the heat turned back up on.

Thanks for your feedback Burls 72. Haven't heard from anyone who has actually had one of these frames from Justin. I had decided on steel, but in 6 months of trying I cannot find anyone to make a super short CS, slack 29er trail bike, so this fall back option is ripe

I'll watch out for any anomalies before final approval, when I go ahead

SST: My God! What's happened to it? Have you sold a bike?

mi©k – Member

anyone used the wtb weirwolf lt 2.55 ? looks like it would be ok in the dry

Yep – they don't come up that wide though – similar to the RR 2.4.

Still a very fat tyre, and yes, great summer tyre, OK in 'summer wet' conditions too. I'll using it up front as soon as it starts drying up a bit

slowrider – Member

sit on the floor with your legs out straight in front of you. put your right foot over your left leg and place it next to your left knee, so that your right knee is almost fully bent.

hook your left arm around your right knee so your knee sits inside your left elbow. grab yhour left hand with your right.

keeping your right foot on the floor, pull your right knee towards your left shoulder and hold it for 60 seconds. then, dont release the pressure but tighten it as much as you can and hold it for 30. tighten again and hold for 30.

do this several times a day as its a thick old tendon you are trying to stretch.

this isnt specifically for sciatica as such, its more commonly used for certain types of knee pain but it helped a lot with my sciatica.

This could be bad advice if the sciatic nerve is being compressed by a bulging disc, and could make the disc bulge even more, making the whole thing worse.

It may have worked for your particular problem, but as everyone is different a visit to an osteopath will diagnose the cause of the OP's leg pain and treat/prescribe any appropriate exercises.

Good luck

I ran a 2.4 RR in the rear last weekend when the ground was hard – man those things roll fast!

Would have swapped the stout up front too had I not sweated so much getting the rear sealed up 🙂

Bring on the Spring

short sram fine

Ditch the man made fibre and go Merino based

Plus change yer diet – the smells that come from out of you are just not right 🙂

Those RF Diablos are mega bulky & heavy – depends on what your use is

What about Formula's

Light and super powerful. Win all the comparo tests

brant – Member

you know these super short chainstay 29ers? are they measuring them along the chainstay (the proper way), or horizontally from BB to wheel centre (cheating)?

I've just measured the CS's on my Paradox and they are 16.9 BB to spindle centre

Banshee list the Paradox CS length as 16.9

Chevin – Member

Just a thought. Steel 29er under £1000? Niner MCR or SIR 9?

Matthew

I owned a SIR9 – very nice steel feel to that ride

ALOT 🙂

The frame I'm after is unusual and therefore requires builder's specific experience to ensure ending up with something which will work

There are quite a few builders around, and also one's who build 29er's, but there are very few with burly 29er trail bike experience

This is how I understand it. I really don't think 'pick any frame builder worthy of the title' goes here. I may be wrong

I asked 18 bikes what they could offer, as I understand they have newly tooled for 29er frames

1K is alot of money, but I would pay this for the right frame

My current ride has the exact geo I'm after, so in that regard I am certain

No feedback on Dave Yates then. I phoned last summer and his wife, who I have to say was less than helpful and put me right off

Another suggestion come in is Gunnar bikes (US)…

Charlie – the Niners have 4130 stays

The frame I'm after is slack and super short in the rear

He sure does, I've been talking to him about possibilities.

But 1850 makes for a landed price of 1500 pounds.

A Nimble 9 is 550 dollars and I can buy direct from Nimble.

It wouldn't be a ByStickle, and I would compromise on fit, and…. blah…blah

It's not a perfect world, so I might just sit tight and wait for the new wave of releases – On-One, Nimble 9, and you never know, Brant might just come in and save the day…

Yes, let's see what the tube specs are, but it doesn't bother me too much which tubes make the frame. Most are 4130 rears anyway. It's always more about the builder, which is why experience is more important than anything, and when you are talking a big for a 29er fork (120 TA Reba)…

Curtlo's wait list is currently ~4 months, but he is good on pricing (900 no paint), not sure of specific experience

Walt is snowed under (1200)

Siren – ~2 months and 1200. He has only made 1 LT 29er frame though

Steve Stickle – 2 months 1900

£1000 seems an awful lot for a steel frame, albeit custom, and seems, if I can say, towards the top end of what others are asking.

If I, or anyone else were thinking of a 29er mtb from you, what individual selling points could you put forward over any others?

18 – thanks for jumping in. Could I cut to the chase and publicly ask, if you don't mind, what ball park figure for a custom steel 29er MTB frame?

I remember a while ago asking and you saying you might be starting a custom build in this new year. Looks like you're going ahead then, and with 29er builds? Good luck and good to hear of another taking up the lead.

I'm not going to those US builders and paying ~1500 dollars, plus 100 postage, then 4%, plus handling, then 17.5% VAT

Total ~1400 pounds for a steel HT!