Hey, thanks Malvern Rider (I can’t remember your name just now)

Thanks Guys

Nothing is going numb, as that happens with central pressure

It’s the sides of the channel I think that are causing the problem

Ah, no. I don’t want electronic shifting

I’ve bought the wrong item then )-

Thanks

Sucessful end to the story is I bought Iain’s Gore and declined SSS’s very tempting offer

@ SSU
How much is that posted?

Thanks so much to all for the replies

I’m going to try a Tormm.

I phoned them (him) today and the back length is long – like 29″ which is the same as the one that’s worn out (Lab-Gear which have stopped making ‘jerseys’ as far as I can see

Ta TF – if the Halo doesn’t make it through, I’ll look at your suggestion

Thanks guys – just ordered a Halo 50

LBS has been saying they can’t find any 45 internals – Scraper out of stock until August, and pretty sure they mentioned Halo too – we’ll see if it comes through…

Bedmaker – bit reluctant to go Rabbit hole route. Had one a while back and it repeatedly sprang leaks. Also, I have a Mule foot 50 at present which is cracking around the spoke attachments and is a similar design to the Rabbit hole

Thanks guys – I’m leaning toward the DT’s then. I had a Swiss a while back built into a wheel which I wanted as ‘silent’. It only ever got briefly used, but was very quiet indeed

steivied – 350’s – are they DT’s too?

what’s the loose bearings issue, and also, what’s the etc? :)

Cheers for the replies guys
have managed to get my phone tracking apps working now, so will not be spending 200 notes just yet :)

^ thanks

Robin – what’s the hammock aspect you speak of?

THanks benp – yeah 16/20″

Loads in London as they are the only folders allowed on the underground (as they fold the smallest of all folders)

Apart from being well over-priced, Bromptoms have tiny wheels which only have to look at a bump and feels uncomfortable

Big reason I went for the Kansi was for its 16″ dia wheels, oh and a sealed rear gear hub, rather than a derailleur which is cleaner

I’ve got a Kansi which I bought used for 200
It’s in mint condition, very well made and designed
One of the best things I’ve bought

Thanks for the replies guys

I actually ordered an SDG Bel Air (before you all posted) as these got much better feedback, and also have the central relief

The main feedback is the Fizik is ‘harder’ and the SDG is a lot more comfortable. Having used Fizik’s for years, will see how the SDG stacks up

Cheers

Could be lower back restriction causing tugging on the gluteal attachments

Pretty much impossible to diagnose here

Go and see an osteopath would be my advice :)

^ Wouldn’t that be ‘obvious’ though – banging etc?

“Where did you purchase it from? Lot of fakes on eBay / Amazon.”

Good point, thanks

How long should you keep using one for?

(the above was put on new with the chain)

The best comment I’ve seen here in this entire thread is that this bar will get many more trying, and realising a great bar

They may just catch on

Does this mean the fresh stock is back in?

I tried them years ago – you feel get stung by nettles and ragged by brambles

No good

Stooge Moto

Do you know what length the (virtual) stem is?

Got a link to them pics taz??

My mate’s running the Bullmoose (Nitto) on his Speedball and likes them

I had a quick go and like them too – when you look down you can see the truss fork through the stem bars which is cool looking, and matches the look of the frame and fork – even if your Stooge is a Mk4

Rocking the Bullnose Bars

MUCH better than the Moto bars

These synergise well on the bike, making for a comfortable, well rounded feel. Recommended

You really need an adjustable as there are so many differing spec bolts on a bike

Even a stem (Thomson) has 2 settings for bars and steerer bolts…

Thanks both

Bit pricey – the Blue being £32, Ritchey £18

Never had one before, thought it would be good to have, but wondering if I need it now

Speedball has a lower BB (~10mm), longer CS’s, shorter reach and a high front (certainly with the truss fork)

This translates to a more planted, stable feel, less twitchy, strong and stable (sorry) at higher speeds, more upright, central, comfortable riding position

With 29+ tyres it wants to roll fast, and whips up quick

A well sorted riding bike, and quite different to the Mk1 & 2 which I have spent time on

I haven’t had all that much time on the Speedball, but plan to have an extended ride the weekend

Re chainline when on the top cog – it’s close – very close. I hadn’t noticed just how close

It’s a newish tyre on the rear and the little nibbly hair-like thingies you get on the walls touch the chain. I would guess it at 4mm

Common as muck now

Mr Tricky – Congrats on your new ride – do post a pic or two when built

As for the one I built for my mate, 11 it is is with non-boost
I’ll look at chainline later today when I see the bike again

What I will say though is the Bridgers come up on the small side of 3″ which will give more clearance, and I did look at clearance in the CS yoke and it’s about at the comfortable max

Agreed on the photo posting – it’s ridiculous

Keep trying though Andy, even if it’s a link we’d like to see it, although those numbers sound good

Where do you ride?

I had a custom Lenz (Behemoth) and thought it a load of crap – too high BB and single pivot which didn’t work. Looks good though

Cost a fortune, took 6 months to arrive and Devin Lenz made it the wrong size. Mikesee on MTBR is his frontman and sells it well

This is not a thread without

P-I-C-S

I’ve done it Stu – it thanked you :)

So, conflicting opinions of what is ‘progressive’ or ‘traditional’

I don’t even know what constitutes traditional, but thought Stooge was never that

Wile colourful & enthusiastic descriptions are good, I wouldn’t buy a bike on that

‘Traditional’ & ‘Progressive’ means different things to different folk