Anyone who buys of someone who has just registered by PP gift needs their head read

Exactly.

I came close to being scammed for an iphone 5 on here, the seller concocted a different thread about how he’d received two apple macbooks and was in a “dilemma” about what he should do – keep it or send it back. He went quiet after i paid him, no comms whatsoever and then totally out of the blue refunded me in full. Almost as though he had lost his balls.

The only thing stopping him take my money was that i flat out refused to pay paypal gift, and paid the fees instead. Any seller worth his or her salt will split the fees, they’re not that much and it’s a small price to pay for the security.

Also it’s a good idea to have a look at a seller’s profile and see their forum history: New members asking for paypal gift are not to be trusted.

If they don’t, then at least you will be going slower when they hit you

When they do hit you from behind, it’ll be their fault but that still won’t save you any hassle of f*cking around with insurance claims and potentially not being able to get home or to work. Last thing anyone wants is to be stuck in the rain having a face-off.

Having said all this, just today i got beeped at for turning left HERE by someone turning right who couldn’t get in, cutting corner, and having to reverse after realising that parked cars were stopping them going around me. They completed their manoeuvre which still didn’t allow me to turn right, so i go left instead to avoid confusion and just as i pass they give me a sharp toot on the horn.

Then coming into sheffield at a merge-in-turn HERE i am in the right hand lane, guy to my left decides he’d rather run me into the oncoming traffic than let me in.

This is what i have to deal with day in, day out.

Hope FTW!

Made in England. Versatile. Funky.

I have to say though, that a clicky free hub is not always substitute for a bell. Twice i’ve been told to get a bell, both times by OAP’s. I will never put a bell on my mountain bike. Ever.

I have plenty of bad experiences with other drivers as i drive a lot for work but at the end of the day posting about it on the internet is pointless. I try and avoid even thinking about it longer than a day after it’s happened because it just increases my stress. There are plenty of good drivers on the road but nobody writes about them – plenty of good Audi drivers, plenty of good BMW drivers, plenty of good white van drivers. Threads like this only help stigmatise and stereotype people based on what car they drive. I never used to get any hassle when i had my Fiesta but since i got an Audi killing machine i get all sort of n*bheads ruining my journey. Just the other day i had a white Scirocco up my backside trying to sneak past at every (un)available opportunity and when i let him past i looked in and it was some scrawny spotty little geek! And plenty of times i’ve expected the perp to be some double hard b*stard that i would’t want to mess with, looked in and it’s been a female.

Point is, you can’t know who’s in the driving seat based on the car they drive. I always try to remember that people have different reasons for getting from A to B and if they want to overtake and it’s safe to do so – i let them. It’s not worth the stress to me, i’ve done enough miles now to know that one mistake could ruin my life and i am just waiting for the moment when someone draws me into a battle and i end up being worse off. Likewise if i am in a rush and i want to overtake i’d hope people wouldn’t look in the mirror and go “Oh no, not another f***ing Audi c*nt, i’ll tech him a lesson”, as the OP clearly did with the WVM in this case.

What if his wife was just about to give birth? But you were so hell bent on not letting him past that you put them in a dangerous situation which caused them to crash. How bad would you feel if she miscarried or her husband died at the wheel? Would it be wort it for the extra car place?

I’m not saying i’m a perfect driver, i know that i’m not. Sometimes i can be a d*ck especially if i’m having a bad day. Tailgating is something that annoys me immensely. But ranting about it online or boasting about how you left him for dust only makes you look bad. Yay you won!! What does that make you good? Are you proud of yourself?

There are always gonna be cheeses on the road. Best to keep as far away as possible and not get involved i say, you never know when someone might just snap and decide to teach you a lesson….

You do know it’s 33 in a 30 zone and 44 in a 40 don’t you? And that most speedometers are set 2mph slower, so you probably could have been doing 35 and 46 respectively?

Just saying.

75/70ish I am 71 kg

i weighed myself today and i’m a shade over 71kg Was probably running way too high a pressure at 100 then!

It’s hard to set up forks when the trails are so damn muddy, what i need is some dry dusty Calafornian trails….one can dream.

hope hubs are good, replaceable cartridge bearings and adaptors to fit QR, 20 and 15mm axles means you’ve got a better range of fork options. Shimano hubs have cup n’ cone bearings which are ok until they get old and then you’re into taking them into your LBS to get them serviced whereas with Hope you can just bung some new ones in yourself. At least that’s how i think it happens – mine are still running smooth. A lot of rims i suspect are overkill strength wise but if you run wide tyres you want to avoid some of the narrower xc rims, although a good solid build goes a long way. I’m running DT swiss EX 5.1 rims which are a good heavy duty rim but still light. Your rolling weight makes a big difference to how easy your bike pedals so unless you’re doing proper downhill riding you want to keep it light and run ‘sensible’ tyres because there’s no point splurging on some lightweight super strong rims and then running heavy tyres. folding tyres are generally lighter.

Try some Hope hoops on DT 5.1 rims it’s a popular combination for good reason. Or Mavic 819 rims on Hope hubs was the other combo i thought of. I don’t run tubeless tyres but if you want to go that route then it’s worth looking into if your rims will be compatible or not. Basically Hope hubs are great and a mid size/weight rim combo should last you for years if you’re not Josh Bender.

spokes – DT swiss competition double butted are good. double butted meaning they narrow in the middle and thicken at the ends to keep the strength and save weight.

Other brands are available.

mulacs, i would set them up at 120, since you run them like that anyway.

Yeah, i get what you’re saying but i am trying to get a good OVERALL picture based on real rider setups – a ballpark setup from which i can tweak. The resources on Rockshox fork setup are abysmal.

The point of this thread is not to have a lengthy discussion on fork setup, you’re clouding the thread with minor detail and turning it into a who-knows-best. I hear what you’re saying but you’re missing the point. Please just let it run and stop fudging it.

I am surprised the OP finds that the Dual Air forks ramp up; most people find that they blow through their travel too readily which makes things like steep drops to flat really scary

i’m just comparing them to fox Talas that i had before, they never ramped up as much but maybe that was because of the LAS (linear air spring).

Peterpoddy, you already p*ssed on the thread earlier, no need to p*ss on it again. I’m finding the info on here pretty useful.

Not that it’s really that relevant but my 2012 RCT£ dual air revs reduced to 120mm run 110 pos. 100 neg. @13 1/2 stone, but I do run stuff quite stiff.

Not at all that’s exactly what i’m after. The more people that share setup and ride character the better reference this thread is for me and others. Learnt a lot already!

I loved this guy, it’s really sad. I think a lot of brilliant people probably have stuff going on in the background especially famous creative people – actors, musicians etc. Must be hard to deal with fame like that. I imagine when you’re up in lights and on the big screen and on posters everywhere it’s be like having an alter-ego and if you’re having a bad day because of real life you’re still expected to get out of bed and perform for the masses. Must be quite lonely. Kenneth Williams is another classic example.

What a shame :(

Northwind – Member
I like the idea “Set the positive, then add negative til it moves. Works well with the old Teams at least and coincidentally ends up around 10psi under the positive with mine.

This is better than any RS instructions, It’s starting to make a bit more sense now. So just add the required +ve (probably less than 100psi for me going by kjrogers’ post) and add -ve pressure until it reaches its balancing point.

RS advise putting up to 15psi more in the -ve chamber to increase the small bump sensitivity, and i’ve read somewhere (from some self proclaimed expert on bikepedia) that you have to be sat on the bike when adjusting both pressures as they change when you’re off the bike! Unless you’ve got arms like Mr Tickle i’d say that was impossible. There’s so much guff out there.

11 1/2 stone. 105 psi both chambers works for me.

Headpotdog, what fork? does that setup give you quite a firm ride?

Peterpoddy, with all due respect i’ve done all that and i can see how the fork works. I appreciate your advice and i won’t put more in the -ve as it seems like you’re not the only one giving that advice. The more people that post up with rider weights, fork settings and ride details the more accurate picture we can get.

Keep on posting ’em up.

and a prime lens

Save up and get a s/h 550D

Are you sure you need a 3 litre? The VW 2.0 TDI engine is plenty quick and has so much torque it’s like being on the end of a rubber band. My boss has a 3l diesel A6 and it just eats tyres.

Have a look at this link. It says you have to be a student but as long as you don’t mention you’re not, apple will never ask. I used to be a student at Leeds and so i had an alumni library card, which in my mind i thought i’d play if they ever asked for proof, but they didn’t. I got a £200 discount on an iMac. The best thing about buying it from a ‘student’ perspective is that you get 3 years of apple care for free. A couple of numbers on my keyboard stopped working and they offered for me to just walk into an apple store with my serial number and replace it with a new one. And if the computer broke they would do the same, as long as i hadn’t damaged it myself. No student i.d required.

http://www.mikewilson.cc/2010/08/18/how-to-get-a-15-discount-at-the-apple-online-store-from-your-own-home-youve-got-to-be-a-student-though/%5B/url%5D

It gives you a suffix to add onto the URL in the address bar to make Apple think you’re logging on from that university campus, which opens up a whole host of juicy student discounts. I got the tip from a surgeon at a hospital i was working at.

The way i see it is, i went to university (which your daughter probably did too if she’s a physio) so i’m entitled to a discount.

There’s a list of suffixes for various universities at the bottom of the article, read the whole thing first and then give it it a try. You can tell it has worked because the store front page will have the logo of whichever university you made it think you’re logging in from.

I also went as far as to opt for the Barclay’s Partner Finance option which let me spread the cost over 10 monthly payments but i’m not sure that deal’s still on.

Happy shopping.

EDIT: it now says “apple store for education” at the top instead of displaying a university logo**

People “curating” things. YOU’RE NOT A MUSEUM.

I’ll just curate a collection of slaps to your face shall I?

Hilarious.

For me it’s middle lane drivers. OK it’s white van drivers. OK it’s all drivers.

There is some cheeky stuff near there that makes stanage plantation look like Sherwood pines. Time to explore a bit more!

I am sure there is, i’ve found the Blacka Moor trail after reading “Dark Peak mountain biking” but it’s verrrry muddy in winter, the jeep path is almost impassable in places. I made the mistake of leaving my bike unwashed for a couple of months after riding that and went back to it to find the bottom bracket completely ceased up!

It’s difficult for me to explore as much as i’d like because i work away from home a lot so don’t get much time so when i do go out i tend to stick to places i know, but if you’ve got any pointers or fancy getting out for a ride some time just drop me an email.

Sounds like you are loving the peaks riding, great isnt it! Hard to say exactly what might be causing you to feel so unbalanced with actually looking at your full bike set up and body position but it might be worth having good shop or coach give you some set up pointers. Just to avoid buying forks for the reason that they match your colour scheme. Hope this does not come across as condescending.

No not at all, i actually like the way my bike’s set up it’s just i crave a bit more cush on sections like this and others where i just feel like ploughing through some of the boulder gardens! I know people say a 36 is great fun on a heckler but i just don’t fancy the extra weight penalty.

At the end of the day, i should have bought the Revelation XX that has just gone for under 200 on the classifieds – i would have lost a few grams and gained more travel and a bolt through axle but alas, i am a plum :)

To be fair, he makes that look very easy. It’s quite steep in places, especially that left hander at the top where it’s easy to sh@t ones self at the sight of what’s in front of you (a big drop). I love it up there though! I can ride from my house to redmires to there, to foxhouse and back to mine in about 23 mile round trip and this is the only bit that gives me problems.

Loving the peak district.

Tapered only though so have no idea if will fit heckler

Nope. I have the same dilemma going on at the moment, exactly the same. In fact I have an entire thread going on about it at the moment. There’s a dodgy headset solution butt apparently it’s too dodgy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKOeBKHfR-c

Haha Rob that’s awesome!

Be honest though, that’s not the first time you’ve ridden that section is it?

I do need to get better…

I’ve just gone from a set of 140 Float RL from 2010 to a set of 2nd hand 2012 Rev’s with a QR15 on my 2010 Heckler (1 1/8 head tube). The change to the geometry and handling is negligible but the extra stiffness is very noticeable, especially when I was playing around with pressures etc on a rocky descent at speed. They just feel more substantial than the Floats – I don’t think I was riding any faster than normal but I certainly felt more in control.

That’s good info thanks

Bobby that is a perfectly reasonable question. They’re the Talas R version so they don’t have much in the way of adjustment but I tend not to have the rebound too fast and run them at about 30% sag. I’m 11 stone and I run about 75-80psi. I find if I put less air in I get brake dive…

Does compression damping fix brake dive?

Maybe I’ll just man up and live with the weight penalty, or just put a rev on like 1000 other people have already mentioned. Almost seems too easy…

The marzocchi’s are a bit heavy though aren’t they?

you don’t need new forks to help with the Peak district’s rocks, you need more practise.

new forks might make the difference between riding through a section at XX.2kph, and XX.5 kph, they won’t make the difference between dabbing and riding.

Oh don’t get me wrong, i’ve ridden 90% of this. I’d just rather ride it without my eyeballs shaking out of their sockets! Pretty sure it could be done on a fully rigid if I had the skills. It probably has been done on a fully rigid.

So maybe a coil rev or sektor could be on the cards then. I would go for an older fox 36 (pretty sure the vanilla would be nice) but i don’t want to add any more weight. I like the look of the 160mm x-fusion forks but i’m having trouble finding one with a straight 1.125 steerer?

Interesting to see that not many people are recommending Fox forks, they used to be regarded as the smoothest on the market but i guess things change as technology moves along. When i first decided i wouldn’t mind a fork upgrade i immediately thought a 150mm float with 15mm axle would be a logical upgrade from what i have now, something between that and a 160mm maxle fork but i can’t find one with a straight steerer anywhere. I’m sure they exist, just my interweb says no..

And before anyone says it’s not a footpath it’s a bridelway :roll:

They are QR forks yeah with Hope hubs so i could fit a maxle for on there. To be honest though, i don’t believe a maxle/15mm/20mm front axle makes much difference, not as much as the marketing people say it does anyway. At 11 stone i’m not a heavy rider and i’ve never experienced flex with the setup i have now. The main reason for wanting a fork upgrade is to have more big boulder squish, having moved to the Peak District. What i would really like to be able to do is this (fast forward to get to the good bit) without dabbing:

Just to let you know, this is what i’ve got already.

Is a 150mm Rev really going to make any difference?

so what’s the main difference between the rev and the sektor then?

A standard 1 1/8 head tube has in id of 34mm. So that cane creek cup you like to won’t fit. To adapt it to fit May be possible and someone may make a product to do it but as said above your angles are all going to go crazy slack. Especially with a real long fork. Get the right fork for the frame. I think you’ll regret it if you don’t.

Yep, you’re right. Problem is, which is the right fork? I love my heckler and wouldn’t be able to afford a new frame so it’s staying put for now, it’s still an awesome frame and has a nice wheelset and rides like a beast, i just want a little bit more “downhillability” without forcing it to show its age :)

360 is more than i want to pay for a fork upgrade, are they solo air? also i wouldn’t pay cash because of the logistics involved, unless you live near me.

Buy my 2 ride old straight steerer lyriks

How much do they weigh and how much do you want for them

OK so let’s talk fork upgrade options.

The whole reason i want to upgrade from my 2009 Talas 140mm is that i ride in the Peaks and want to be able to bosh the bigger stuff. I just feel like i want a bit more plush, and i’d like to try a through axle, but i don’t want to add more weight. My fork weighs about 1900g

So 150mm Rev could be a good one.

LBS offered me a Rock Shox Sektor 150mm, not sure how much that weighs or how well it performs.

Do Fox make a 150/160mm Float/Talas with a 1 1/8″ steerer?

Hecklers are brilliant with 160mm forks

That’s ultimately what i’m after, but i want to keep it as light as possible so it still climbs as well. I did consider a 1 1/8″ Fox 36 but decided it’d just be a little bit on the lardy side. The new crop of tapered steerer Fox forks are pretty light for the amount of travel.

I don’t think that will work – 1 1/8″ does not have 44mm id.

I wondered about this but couldn’t find the geometry specs. So it definitely won’t fit then? Are there any other similar headsets on the market?

can’t see it working without significantly changing the geometry.

If i could get a headset to fit the solution (which looks like it might not even be possible), wouldn’t just running a bit more sag sort this out?

So complicated lol. Maybe i could get a float 160 and swap the crown/steerer assembly. Or maybe just live with the extra weight of a 1 1/8″ 36. Decisions decisions…

Because i’m a tart and i want them the same colour as they are now which is grey. But i’m taking all advice in.

cbmotorsport can you elaborate? Why can’t i use this cane creek product?

Don’t feel bad about asking a bike shop to build the wheels out of your parts, if they don’t want to do it they’ll tell you so.

I got mine built up at Stif Leeds (which is no longer there) for £20 a wheel.