what kind of long sleeve top @cheers_drive?

soft shell?

Epic fail on an internet forum populated by middle aged men who’ve been riding since their teens.

Look do what you want, im just going by what Sheldon Brown says and he came out of his mother’s womb on a Raleigh Chopper :lol:

Glad im not the only one who hasnt been awarded their points!

Water is a lubricant, never mind GT85. I think that the most important thing is cleaning the grit and crap off the chain every ride.

That, and not stripping off the factory lube.

You find conversations about Strava boring so you thought you’d start one here.

Good one!

Well that stuff i ordered came. Took it out the box….its yellow! Not the stuff they advertised. Doesnt smell like fenwicks either.

Came from Bradford though so to be expected really.

Different strokes for different folk i guess.

Back on topic, Fenwicks seems to be pretty good and is good value if you buy the FS1

I’ve had Fenwick’s before and liked it a lot.

But I got this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOSTAR-TRAFFIC-FILM-REMOVER-NON-CAUSTIC-5-LITRE-TFR-CAR-TRUCK-BUS-CARAVAN-5L-/191840280517?hash=item2caa925fc5:g:PywAAOSwA4dWFqLS

after noticing this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fenwicks-Advanced-Caravan-Motorhome-Care-Cleaner-Concentrate-1-Litre-/111961499991?hash=item1a116ce957:g:aXAAAOSwq19XBsFo

was the same as this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fenwicks-FS-1-Concentrate-Bike-Bicycle-Cleaner-1-Litre-/361213645922?hash=item541a02d462:g:cL4AAOSwstxU21e3

I’m not sure if it’s the same stuff but i’ll be sure to let you know.

Crikey, there are some myths about bicycle chains around. A clean chain (stripped of the factory coating) sprayed with GT85 or WD40 will not rust. No other lube necessary if treated like this every ride.

It’s not a myth it’s a fact. The factory chain coating is the best you can get and you should run it until it gets dirty. GT85 and WD40 are too thin and contain solvents which dissolve the factory coating (and therefore **** your chain up).

Nothing smoother than a new SRAM chain (can’t speak for shimano).

And if my words don’t hold much weight for you maybe a quote from the late great Sheldon Brown will help:

Factory Lube

New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact [well, unless…see below — John Allen].

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don’t do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.

[This type of lubricant, like wax, needs to be heated during application, but it could be applied at home or in the bike shop too, if available — John Allen]

Lubricants Not to Use!

While it’s hard to say which lubricants are best for chains, some lubricants are real no-nos:

Automotive motor oil contains detergent, to wash away combustion products, and is made to be renewed constantly under pressure from the motor’s oil pump. I [John Allen] rode once with someone who had used it the day before, and her chain was already squeaking.
“Household” oil, such as 3 in 1, is a vegetable oil and is acidic. It tends to gum up. (It’s really bad news inside internal hub gears, too…)
WD-40 and other thin sprays are intended more as solvents than lubricants. They evaporate quickly.

Taken from here
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.htmlhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Combined with personal experience of having stripped and re-lubed a few chains myself, in ignorance of the above advice. But if you don’t want my over 10 years of mountain biking experience you keep on stripping off that factory lube and replacing it with WD40.

Bomber, that factory coating (cosmoline?) is just there to prevent corrosion during storage, not to work as a lubricant. Sophisticated lubes usually recommend this is cleaned off first. It is good at making crap stick to your chain, if that’s a plus.

I’m sorry but that’s not correct. It is an anti corrosion which is why your chain will rust if you strip it off with powerful degreasers. Unless you are going to lube it after each ride and wash. Try and preserve it and lubricate over the top of it and you’ll have a silky smooth chain that doesn’t rust. But it’s also a great (the best?) lubricant you can have on your chain as it covers every part of it. Once you flush it out it’s very hard to get good quality lube back into those tiny spaces. I’ve never put a new chain on and though “bloody heck this new chain is rough!”.

Sophisticated lubes probably know that if you strip it back to bare you’re going to have to use a lot more of their product more often.

What I have noticed is that if you do strip the factory coating off, the links move around more freely….but it’s not a nice feeling. More of a harsh and gritty one. This is because the spaces between the links now contain air, water and dirt, whereas before there was a lovely/perfect/ high pressure grease keeping all the mud and water out.

So never, ever touch your chain with any degreasers or anything like WD40 which will dissolve the factory coating, unless you want it to be rust-prone and high maintenance.

I used to strip my chains using undiluted fenwick’s but i realised it’s not a good idea because you’re just removing the factory coating that comes on it.

I’ve ordered that TFR I linked to. For 5 litres for £8 with free postage it seems a bargain, dilutes 100:1, is non caustic, it says caravan cleaner on the front and it even looks like Fenwick’s. I’ll be able to tell if it’s Fenwicks or not by the smell.

It’s all just Traffic Film Remover, surely?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOSTAR-TRAFFIC-FILM-REMOVER-NON-CAUSTIC-5-LITRE-TFR-CAR-TRUCK-BUS-CARAVAN-5L-/191840280517?hash=item2caa925fc5:g:PywAAOSwA4dWFqLS

I have to admit i’ve had fenwick’s before and it was good.

Would this be the same stuff? except cheaper and with free postage?

ebay link

While “just business” it doesn’t sit well with most people and is slightly counter to his godly persona.

I think he’s every right to go wherever he wants to be honest, it’s his body on the line after all and compared to other sports like football which are much lower risk with longer careers he does right to milk it for every penny he can. He could easily break his neck tomorrow.

No points awarded as yet I notice.

I think we should ask for our money back.

No points for me either

Ive got the Tamron 17-50 non-vc (sharper than the vc). Sharp at 2.8, wicked sharp at f/4 and nice colours and bokeh. Only complaint is that the af is noisy.

I’m in.

WildfirePhotos

New Halo vapour 35’s?

Nice and wide, if your frame can take them.

http://www.halowheels.com/products/part/WHHAV3BBK

Yeah they’re plastic lock-on type fittings, different to a screw in hose connection. I think there is some give in the connections due to the fact they are plastic. I’ve tried all combinations of pushing/pulling and nothing seems to work. In the instructions it mentions about bleeding air out of the system but even when I leave the trigger piece off and switch it on the base connection still pops off, I don’t understand where the pressure build up is coming from.

CRC are sending me a new hose and connections so hopefully this will solve the problem.

was it the same problem Rone? CRC purchase?

NOT my video by the way. But you get the general idea. Mine is the V-17, supposedly the upgrade to this one. I know the guy in the video tries screwing it in, which would make no difference. Just before anyone pounces…

It’s a real shame as when it worked it was great. Now it does exactly this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dboZBEVpug

I’m sorry antares but you can’t add up the manufacturer weights of all the components on a bike and expect the end figure to be accurate, since the manufacturer weights are often complete BS. UKBYK should know better than to mislead people with sh*te like that.

just whack it on and see?

Gears are the most boring part of a bike. Fact.

Thanks Kam

Thanks all

Just to update the thread, i got the Madison Roam jacket and it has served me very well indeed, it’s NOT a boil in the bag sweat inducer it has vents in the back and it’s very waterproof to the point where you could pour a pint of ale down the front of it and it’d just bounce off. How warm you want to be depends on how many layers you put under it.

The only problem is, it’s now become my main winter jacket as i wear it everywhere.

Matt i don’t think those are for me, it seems a fussy way of doing things and they look ridiculous.

These look good – A530’s. Flat one side and clips other that way i can nip to the shops in trainers. Question is what kind of shoe system will i need for these? Shimano SPD? will they need to be shimano?

Shimano A530’s

questions, questions…

If you get SPD pedals with a good platform like the second you have posted but maybe with a few pins they are OK in normal shoes if you just want to pop to the shops quickly.

Noted

That’s good advice thanks! I didn’t realise some were recessed. Do shimano make a version of the m520 which is half and half? i.e.. flat pedal on one side and SPD on the other?

Yes

The only judgement you need to make is whether the part is genuinely warranty, or a good will replacement. Whichever way it is, I haven’t come across a manufacturer yet that would not pay for the return postage on a warranty replacement.

It’s a common fault apparently.

Cheeky bastards!

I think it’s cheeky too and I don’t want to have to pay it but i feel bad because i have a good relationship with them :-(

tthew – Member
Is this an extended bit of a warranty, (eg. are you claiming under a lifetime frame warranty from the manufacturer) or part of your statutory rights, which is probably upto a year?

Its a part from a 6 month old bike thats still under warranty.

Theyre telling me i have to pay for them to get it to the manufacturer. Nobody mentioned this when i dropped it off but now the items back they want money in exchange for item. It seems a bit unfair that i should be out of pocket.

I got my dad a nokia lumia 535 and he loves it. Big, bright screen, good battery life, can surf the web and check emails and he even has whatsapp now its a revelation for him!

Theyre £80 new i think but i got one for 50 off ebay

Bullit too heavy to enjoy the Peaks properly, i rode a heckler round there for 2 years and loved it. As said above does it have to be santa cruz? If you like the nomad how about a Commencal Meta Am? Or a specialized enduro 29? I went from (2003) old upgraded heckler with 150mm travel to a Camber evo but the enduro would be more your cup of tea i reckon. They were 3k in dark orange with Pikes about 6 months back so you could probably get a bargain soon if they havebt dropped in price already.

Snow patrol.

A rock band who’s songs sound like they’re always waiting to drop – but never do.
Kaiser Chiefs
U2 again
Anything wishy washy

On the other hand, music I love… Wolfmother, Soundgarden, Dr Octagon (rap), Bonobo (downtempo/chillout)

Go listen!

How were you averaging a puncture a ride!? I don’t think i’ve had one puncture in all the time i’ve been mountain biking.