yeah WTF is this about a warranty? just get a needle and thread and sew them up? or take them down the local market and get them to do it for you?

it’s a guy called mtnbiker4life, he makes the tools himself and he can supply the bushes too i think. here’s a link

mtnbiker4life

yeah i have it in my ebay faves i think – guy in america. i’ll go dig it out (peterpoddy recommended him)

OH MY GOD :roll:

excellent thanks for the info. anyone got a spare footy adaptor?

also will the football pump adaptor fit on the end of a standard shock pump?

i was wondering about that but 150psi is quite high isn’t it

not only are you fat, but you can’t spell either. BIKING – ING, remove the E ;)

bumpety :)

how does unsprung weight affect the suspension? i think the bottom line is, that lighter wheels are faster and what poppa said about tyres and rims as they’re on the outside.

sorry – £11.99

sorry to burst your bubble mate but you cant get deore chainrings for 8 quid any more – CRC are sold out and the cheapest i can find them elsewhere is 15 quid :(

make a good trail dog… maybe you could train it to do 24hr enduro?

I have some AMAZING flat pedals – XPEDO MX mags. sealed replaceable cartridge bearings, replaceable pins, 410g the pair, large area and grippy as F*CK. but good luck finding them.

if you say so….

i spread good vibes today by pointing an old couple into my parking space and then giving them my parking ticket which still had 2 hours left on it.

yeah i’ve seen that don’t fancy making my own though

it does list a standard air pump needle can be used for de-pressurising and re-pressurising the talas air cartridge. does anyone know exactly what a “standard air pump needle” is? surely it can’t mean a footy needle??

i think thats the one. unless the 2004/2005 are different. Thanks, now to find a TALAS IFP tool 8O

you should be able to get his phone number through paypal – a guy on ebay once phoned me up after i left him negative feedback!

pretty please?

to me, the fact that he’s offered to sell it as parts makes me think it might not be a scam otherwise there’d be more than one person on his tail. give it a day or two to account for family crisis etc.

i see what you mean. still though, respect where respect is due….

It’s a big fat NO from me, too

was that the first time you’d ever had a go? i wouldnt dare use good hubs and rims on my first attempt incase i messed it up. got some hope hubs/dt rims and spokes ready to go but think i’ll get em built

what are you talking about david? have you seen the steve peat section on earthed 4?

its just funny how you get home and log on to STW to have a moan about such a trivial incident

theyre pretty fat for A 2.35

and you chose a cycling forum to have a rant about it?

for dry trails you could try a small block 8 on he back and a larsen tt on the front that’d be an amazing combo. you’d get the rolling speed of the small block plus a bit more grip on the front for last minute braking. If theres one thing i didn’t like about running SB8’s front and rear it was that i couldn’t really push the braking limit too hard over the loose stuff. a TT up front might solve that.

we can’t all be linear homosexuals aP

according to the STW disc brake review the new shimano XT and SLX’s servowave thingy puts the pads further out from the rotor so they don’t drag.

i’d go and worry about something else if i were you, smee. i’m sure you’ll get over it given time. maybe give it a week

awwwwwwww. poor little smee. He could’t get from A-B. as fast as he would like, you see. The cyclist wouldn’t let him past. Alas, he was forced to stare at his….

….bottom.

just for the record, DT 5.1s are about 520g

i like stainburn, keeps you going back for more and the more you ride it the more of it you can manage. i’m not good enough to do the black (boulder trail?) though; last time i tried it i bottled on most sections and found it too stoppy-starty but i think i’ll try it again next time i go. so addictive!

where are the trails accross the road and what are they like?

i don’t do staying away from puddles. in Calderdale they’re pretty much unavoidable (and lots of fun!)

i’ve got shimano mp56’s. good in filth as they’ve got a lace-cover. i might try 5.10s in the summer (if we get a summer) but i can’t see them comparing to the shimanos in the wet.

link to shimanos on CRC

theyre a bit stiff at first but they’re loosening up

i’ve got the 60a folding high roller as a front wheel it’s pretty light too as well as fast rolling. i’ve also got a set of small block 8’s and they’re demon fast but no good for any wet off-roading

i’d be tempted to try something between a small block and a high roller from the maxxis line-up like a larsen TT or maxxis advantage

Ow-30 is thinner so apaprantly better for cold starts, so its safe to assume a thicker oil wont be as effective.

i would have thought so too. It’s not going to make much difference but it’s one of those issues where a company might turn around and tell you that the warranty is void because you used the wrong kind of oil… I’ve only ever had second hand forks but if i’d paid a lot of money and had them from new then i’d be more worried about using the manufacturer’s stuff. the new thing with fox forks about lifting the seals and re-lubing seems stupid to me i tried it on my old 2004 talas which i’ve never had serviced and i almost scratched the stanchions to buggery. when i finally got the seals out the crush washers were CLEAN AS A WHISTLE. They should make a specific tool if they expect you to do that. but there’s a huge thread on here somewhere about that…