dremmel? WTF??

I used the youtube guide. Have you got nice cables? and speed dial levers?

i’m not saying the teeth being worn is the problem, i reckon it’s play in the guide jockey wheel. they don’t call it the guide for nothing! I think the OP should report back and put us all out of our misery (once he solves the problem by replacing the jockey wheels) ;)

That kind of skipping is caused by the chain lifting off all the teeth on the sprocket, and would still happen even if you removed the rear mech entirely.

molgrips – i said i wouldnt argue with you but i’m gonna have to put you straight. if you have a rear mech failure on the trail and need to remove it then the golden rule is to always run the chain on the largest sprocket of the cassette before you cut it down to size. The reason for this is that the ramps on each sprocket are designed to push the chain upwards to aid shifting. If you were to cut down the chain to the smallest cog and try running singlespeed like that you wouldn’t get very far as the ramps try to push it up onto a bigger cog – your chain would snap. I’ve no doubt you’ve never even tried running a bike without a rear mech otherwise you would’ve known that out of experience.

as you are a bike-fixing wizard i’m sure you can now figure out why a sloppy guide jockey wheel could cause skipping.

Tim

molgrips – you’re just lucky

you and we are only here because someone at STW ok’d your login, they could just as easily un-ok it and you’d have no come back whatsoever

maybe but that wouldnt stop you creating a new email address and login and coming back on as “someone else”

JON, spot on mate. I’m not gonna argue with a bunch of idiots on here, i’ve said what i think it is so lets see what happens

name and shame, and never go there again. come on, you can tell us..

spikey jockey wheels won’t affect it but side-to-side play might. take the chain off and give the guide wheel a wobble. if the bearings are nackered there will be a lot of sideways movement which will definitely cause sloppy shifting and probably isn’t helping the chain run straight on the cogs. but check your high/low screws and cable tension are set properly first.

Tim

cheers guys

yeah just don’t go for silly light, pick good strong midweight components. obviously some bits are more important than others.

EDIT:

cranks are fairly important
as are wheels – you could probabaly save a lot of weight if you choose nice wheels
DH brakes are overkill although flimsy levers are likely to snap off
forks are pretty important

and how much you weigh needs consideration. if youre 16 stone and doing 6 ft drops regularly you might need strong tyres/tubes which will bump the weight up…

wether or not handbuilt is better depends on the wheelbuilder. I’ve had some hope pro 2 on dt5.1 built by stif which are nice. likewise the guy down the road in bikology makes nice wheels too. If you’re going to get a handbuilt set make sure you go by reputation otherwise theres not much point.

which blog/blog site is that trail_rat

Some of the more techy bits on the black were also quite exposed with long drops to one side and with the wind that was blowing, it made it quite scary

sounds ace! i’m not a kind of guy who rides with my seatpost high on climbs, i’ve got a sweet spot that’ll do for both but i do like it to be down and out the way when it gets really steep. is it worth going for an afternoon? how long did the red and black take you?

i reccomend the tacx stainless steel bearing ones form ukbikestore

its not just this forum either theres a 2 page thread HERE on socaltrailriders.com and correct me if i’m wrong but socal is short for Southern Calafornia which is in america isn’t it?

good thread actually, pics posted by a guy who drilled his hope pro 2’s out

anyone got one?

TandemJeremy. you keep on mentioning that you can’t prove that helmets save lives, but can you prove that they don’t? I wouldn’t like to be the one to test that theory. In light of the situation and the fact that someone is lying in hospital with a serious head injury i find your arguments slightly disrespectful to the author of the original post, not to mention the person lying in hospital. Also, being a scientist myself i am cringing right now at your rather linear, logic based approach to such a sensitive topic. being able to say the helmet was unlikely to have done him any good because you can’t prove that it did is a futile argument and completely out of place in this thread. Most of the good scientists i know – the REALLY intelligent ones are the people who not only have good logic and reasoning but also common sense, tact and humility to compliment it.

no thats what my lbs said too. i’ve just put a new chain on and its sorted it, i didnt think my chain was worn at all but a new cassette must show up slightest chain wear :roll:

Takes about 5 minutes.

someones telling porkies!

it does look a bit grim. maybe get an xl2 to replace it? only 20 quid

well i only look at midget porn so it can’t be that

yeah give it a good clean and soak in WD cos all that dirt is just conspiring to keep it in

If I won the lottery (ittud be a miracle as I don’t play it), I would buy it all

i wouldn’t. it’s chav-city: gold = tacky.

<goes away to be sick>

have a look on merlin they do some great deals on wheelsets

cheers stoner you da maaaayun

so i can use all the spokes i have? 260, 262, 258, 257….?

OK thanks, this is all good stuff. I’ve been on th DT spoke calculator now and got my desired lengths. one last question: the DT site tells me i need:

front le: 259 (actual 259.5) i have 260
front ri: 261 (actual 261.3) 262

rear le: 257 (actual 257.3) 258
rear ri: 256 (actual 256.6) 257

I have the spokes already as i bought the wheels as an unbuilt set – i’ve written to the right the spoke lengths i currently have. they all seem to be rounded up by 1mm. are they useless or can i still use them?

does the 3 refer to 3 cross? im obviously clueless but isn’t the wheel in the pic above a 4 cross lacing? correct me if i’m wrong. this is life or death people..

bugger. im gettng confused now. The front wheel shown here – is it 3 cross or 4 cross?

scaredypants it wont let me type anything in the boxes

stoner is that from the DT website?

scaredypants the one you linked to asks for rim diameter and rim offset, flange diameter and flange distance. what the hell are they??

well when i went to use the dt spoke calculator i couldnt find dt5.1s on the drop down menu. you’d think they’d have their own rims on their calculator

yeah thats what i was thinking 07’s with 08 decals

Uber. could always stiffen up the rear with a DT RWS if needed? any idea how much it weighs?

If out brains could use other fuels instead of sugar we’d lose weight easily.

why is that then?

solamanda – it dosen’t fit! how the hell am i supposed to connect it to the shock pump??

mboy do you work at TFTuned? well whoever it was i spoke to at TFT was pretty damn helpful because they told me i could basically use the 5wt i already had because im not too heavy and they also said i can mix any two makes or weights of fork oil and it wouldn’t matter. i’m going to use the 5 and see how that feels. also got some 85wt gear oil from my local motorbike shop FREE OF CHARGE which can be used instead of fox float fluid saving me a tenner :)

thanks for that nugget mboy :roll:

yeah youre right! thanks coatsey hadn’t thought of that

my mates brother bought himself a carbon epic, after that he became a right tw*t. he would cut me up all over the place when it was just me and him on climbs with no regard for my line choice whatsoever, and on muddy climbs if he couldnt make it he would stop in the middle of the trail so i couldn’t make it up either and then complain about his tyres not being grippy enough. He’d boast about how fast he could get from A to z and how he had to wait for so-and-so, and how he could have done the ride faster if so-and-so wasn’t there. i don’t ride with him any more. problem solved.

orange alpine?