Also if you are going to run tensionerless you can do it without a half link. Removing half an inh from the chain (using a half link does this) is like adding or removing 2 teeth from the from or rear sproket or 1 tooth from each.

Using a BMX chain would make any alignment issues worse as it less flexible laterally. I run both of my SS with 8 speed chains with no issue. I do tensionerless as well.

Wrap your chain arround both spokets and bring up to join and measurewhat faction of an inch you need to remove or take away to join. Add/removing 1 tooth takes or adds 1/4″ to chain length.

Either this or get a push up tensioner.

I have tried the Zaffio’s one before and never again, I was forever changing out tubes. Not a tyre for mile munching in all weathers.

Gator skins are good tyre for the money. I use them. I put about 3000 miles on them and had no puntures until July’s swimming pool rides which resulted in the roads of Suffolk becoming covered in sharp flints. I must have done some flint knapping with the front wheel as I got a puncture big enough to put a srew driver through the tyre. I cannot blame the tyre for that though. Replaed them with more gatorskins.

Good tyres, roll relativley well and if you go for the folder it weighs a genuine 230g so not too heavy. the wire bead is 290g.

I nearly snapped one once but noticed in time as a link was falling apart during a ride and bought another chain.

I also snapped a SS sprocket once anyone managed that.

Do it. I used to do alot on MTB’s (SS) and a SS road bike. Now I walk to work as it is so close.

I have found the Park chainring bolt spanner good for skinning knuckles which is why in my shop I use the Cyclus tool mostly as it keeps the skin on my knuckles where it belongs.

Here is a picture from the distributor
http://www.i-ride.co.uk/cyclus/cranksets/Cyclus_721059_Chainring_Bolt_Tool_Blister_Card.html

It will need to be reduced as for RRP £1000 FS bike there are far too many comprimises. I would by always by a hardtail at this price range, less comprises need to be made.

No never, the world would have to end first.

I now ride 1:2 single speed 2:1 would be 2 revsd of the crank to one of the rear wheel. With that ratio you would never go anywhere.

To the OP quit 1×9 and ride SS then you won’t weorry about your gear ratio’s.

Never tried Bontrager, I use Cinelli cork. Be patient with bar tape and you will get it right. Practice helps. I would by two boxes if this is your first time.

Bar tape sometime bar tape unwraps withouyt tearing if you are careful removing it though.

What ring size depends opn how you ride and how steep your hills are. I used a 32T on a 1×9 years ago for XC riding around thetford forest. I think I had an 11-28 cassette. It’s flat here though.

Get ICe rotor if you like paying lots for discs, I don’t so buy others.

Sometimes with these even though you have thought you have got all the air out you have not. I have had this before and after beelding the lever just pulled back to bar. So I re invented Avid’s bleed proccedure and over filled the caliper syringe (use a bigger one if you have one and de gass as normal), and de-gassed the lever syringe and pushed fluid from the caliper to the lever and from the lever to the caliper several times to dislodge any air which it did, alot of it too. I let all this air collect in the lever syringe and then bleed as per Avid’s instructions. It worked. If you have an air leek this won’t work but it will confirm you have a leak and not traped, stubborn air.

The a biycle forum not a motor bike forum!

The CS -6700 cassette is a ultegra cassette. You perhaps maybe able to use a closer one one as well but I thave never tried the RD-T780 mech which is the one shimano recomend closer ratio cassettes, with a a really close ratio cassette than an 11-28. It would probably work but shimano say it won’t.

The chain does not always bounce of the ring. I used to ride 1 x9 on a hardtail many years ago before it was fashionable and I never dropped a chain riding around Thetford Forest. However Thetford is tame compared to some places so it depends on where you ride, how you ride and if you are riding a full susser.

Eventually my cassette and chain wore out I replaced it with a single sproket.

10 speed is fine but shimano are now only doing wide range MTB cassettes. 11-34 or 11-36 is common. If you ride XC in east anglia like me these wide ratio cassette are not so useful. You can use the CS -6700 11-28 cassette but thats as close ratio as you can go. If you want closer ratio cassette I don’t know if they work well with the MTB mechs.

I think my ideal 2×10 would be 40/28T with 11-28T cassette.

You are probably looking in thr 53-55cm range but it varies from bike to bike as the top tube lengths are different. The ammount of top tube drop is important whih is why the effetive top tube length is the dimension needed. Also stem lengths vary on different build as does saddle to bar drop. All this determines if the bike is right or if it it needs changes.

You have to sit on a few which is why buying over the internet is difficult unless you know what frame dimensions you need. Frame sizing guides are only a starting point.

Cup and cone is cheap to service I like that. I don’t like the weight though. Both types of bearings work well and one ios not better than the other because you have to define better first and almost every poster so far has a different opinion on better.

Those who say cup and cone do not spin freely have never had a campy record hub then.

If you were to try 32:15T is not goling to help much on the flats but will hurt a bit more on the hills.

32:14T sounds better and all you will have to do is introduce a half link to maintain your curent tensioner position if you use one.

A taller tyre will have the same effect as well. you would suprised now much of a difference rolling diamter makes.

You could also try a 34:14T and a narrow low profile tyre to reduce roilling diamter to make the change less severe.

I have old 300lx cranks and saint cranks. Both feel like cranks to me. I which BB last longer as well.

People have been playing with these since the 1890’s and they still are niche. There is a lack of evidence that they make a real difference.

If weight and strength were related as you say then that cheap oxford seatpost would be very strong. It isn’t though.

I only use Thomson now as every other post I have had has bent. All the money I spent of posts that bend could have bought me a another Thomson or two.

Just get a Thomson.

Those Cinelli frames make me go week at the knee’s

Yes I build. I want to come along on Saturday I will have to speak top the missus.

Fulcrum racing 7 an be had for your budget. An LBS should be able to put together a set of wheels using Rigida Chrina’s, Shimano Tiagra hubs and Sapim Race spokes. Well my shop does so other will too. I am suggesting something like this as the Chrina (I ride on them myself) has a very durable braking surface and if built right then they are very durable.

Fulrrum 7 are about 1980g for the pair. Most wheels sub £150 are going to be around this weight. Miche make some decent wheels too and the Exite and Relfex come in on budget. Miche hubs are very durable but they are heavier than the Fulcrum wheels.

I find round one’s work well.

Spaim race are available in mm increments in MTB and 700c sizes in silver. Dt in 2mm increments.

Sheldon brown is a good source of info.

That the point I was making. “low end” tubing still rides well. I say 531 is “low end” because it is not made anymore but it equivelents produced by other manufacturers is and this “531” equivelent used in the Traitor Exile frame for example.

A steel frame does not need to be made from R853 or its equivelents for it to be a good frame. The strength and fatique resistance provided by lower grade tubing is quite sufficent if the frame is well made.

I have riden a few 531 frames and love them.

The Btwin is probably O.K. For cheap and relaible and sub £300 I would always go with single speed, not a trendy on though so it won’t be a tempting to theives.

I am 6ft1″ with 34″ inside leg and fit perftecly on a 59x59cm traditional frame (I forget the angles) with inline post with seat in the middle and 110mm stem. I have ~24″ arms to my hand around a bar.

On a compact frame (dpending on the seat tube drop an top tube length) a 57 or 58cm would work well. Top tube length + stem length is very important but so are the other frame dimensions.

It is easier to size upo a frame if you have a prefered riding position as you can see which frame gives you that.

To the guy put off campag by trying veloce, it is there entry level kit. I use and it’s fine for me, shifting is a bit clunky sometimes (mostly it’s quite slick but not 105 standard) but on the whole it is fine. If you try there higher end groups set things get better like going from sora to 105.

I use Campag becuase because I love the shifters (hood size and lever arrangement are perfect for my hands), the FD trims (SRAM does this as well) and gear shift is easier to use. I dislike the flappy brake lever that shimano use, it feels wrong to me and I find SRAM double tap easy to misshift up instead of down or visa versa.

Oh and Campag’s kit is pretty. Shimano’s cranks are just ugly and SRAM’s cranks are too in your face with there grahics but that again as with the above is personal preference.

Shimano are hardly the inovators folk make them out to be. They have come up with a few new things but there real sucess is marketing and market pentration. Everyone copies each other in the bicycle world. There were egg shaped ring 100 years before Shimano made Biopace. In the 1890’s some one was playing with suspension bikes. Suntour and Mavic did electronic shifting before Campag/shimano did it.

Shimano’s indexing for the rear is a genuine inovation, shame they applied it the front where it’s not needed.

Use what ever system you perfer, they all work well.

There is nothing wrong with low end steel. 4130 double butted/531 tubesetsmaybe low end and is not that light (my 59x59cm is nearly 5lbs in weight) but the ride is fantastic. It is by far the most comfortable bike I have ever riden. The whole bike may weighs in at 22.6lbs and with mudguards, full bottle, saddle bag and computor it is 25lbs but I really don’t care as it so nice to ride.

The frame I use is a Traitor Exile. http://www.traitorcycles.com/Bikes_Exile.cfm

I have it built up with Cmapag Veloce, Thompsen post, Cinelli bars and stem, miche hubs, rigida Chrina rims, Sapim spokes, Sella Itali C2 saddle.

I hope it fits you. I have my doubts but….

A shimano 10 speed chain will work with with Campag so I do not know where the “no” posted comes from. Campag chains work on shimano drive trains as well. You should be able to use 10 speed chain on 9 speed as well. The distance between campag sproket teeth is the same as on shimano sprokets -1/2″ it is the one bike thing that is standardised.
Give it a go.

I agree with buy a KMC chain over a shimano chain though. I would also take a KMC chain over a campag veloce chain. Cmapag record on the other hand is a very good chain.

A shimano 10 speed chain will work with with Campag so I do not know where the “no” posted comes from. Campag chains work on shimano drive trains as well. You should be able to use 10 speed chain on 9 speed as well.
Give it a go.

Tifosi CK3 sora or Veloce are worth a look. The best thing about these bikes apart from they come with mudguards, rack mounts and ride well is any dealer can order then part built so they can be specced to your requirements at least thats what I do. The standard tyres (vittoria Zaffiro’s) are not up tot wet roads as they puncture too easily. They really need some Conti Gators/4 seasons or something similar. Saddle may or may not be to your liking as well.

There are so many ways to skin this cat. I still use my 2003 Orange Evo 2 with alot off changes. Still a do it all frame.