I want to do this next year. It looks like the sort of challange i will love and hate all at the same time. Good luck to all doing it. Got a call from steve large. Shame he is ill.

I’ll need another bike though unless i can adapt ond of my current steeds for the challange.

Wheels with wide rims are needed for 29er’s using ryde trace trail on one of mine now and give very precise steering and allow me to climb quicker than before. Carbon rims do the same job but cost more.

Did know rims that wide were being made in 1998. Cool bike. Is thata drum brake on the rear i spy.

Wider rims and wider tyres for that matter make the contact patch wider and shoret can improve lateral grip (on a smooth surface it wont in theory as the cintact oatch is the same but off road the surface is not smooth) while descreasing rolling resistance. That what the physics says anyway. So i think there is some confusion above Regarding grip vs rolling resistance.

I ride rigid only therefore woder rims and wider tyres and a 29er help alot. I get a damm good ride of dugast fast bird tubulars. Man i love those tyres but thats a whole other story.

Going back to where i left this thread last night hob nob your tyres are the reason why you ntoice little to no difference. The more flexible the casing the more the tyre spreads and oddly enough the better the tyre handles. using a heavy stiff gravity tyre is rhe issue here. I run tyres likwnthe conti race king and x King. I have a vittoria mud tyres waiting for the mud come winter and i know i will hate them. Heavy stiff things.

Biltong i lovw that stuff.

Cock hell is a local one And shimpling the best is another.

You may have stressed relieved as much as you thought you did if a wheel needs attention this is normally the cause. I have built with lots of carbon rims and never had any issue. You have not mentioned spoke tension i hope ds rear is 1200n.

Carbon rims do not need higher tension than alloy rims. Spoke tensions much higher than 1200n risk the flanges on hubs anyway.

The tension in a wheel only needs to high enough to avoid spoke loosening off and to avoid early fatigue. There is no wheel that benefits from tensions higher than 1200 to 1300n on the ds Rear. Front wheels can be tensioned abit less but i would tension the disc side to 1100n.

Eating food give enough protein. Eggs meat various beans e.t.c you can obcess about getting the right diet but if you eat a balanced diet of food that you prepare yourself then you will get everything you need. That is particulaly so if make colourful and tasty. I would stop worrying about how much of x and y you are getting. If your weight is stable and you feel fueled when you ride your diet is fine.

Eating food is meant to be a joy not some sort of mission in working out the nutrional content of whats on the plate.

Personally i dont touch supplements or weigh what in eat. I do not care how much protein i have eaten today enough is the answer.

I have a look at the website suggestions. I know a few of the mtb riders around here and there are few groups. You know there are not many as there are ten or so names of many strava segments and know all of them. I do go out and explore but it normallh ruins a ride as i miss a turn and end up in some lumpy field wondering what am i doing here.

What tyres are ypu using hib nob because your experience is certainly not mine but your alloy rims are already quite wide. Your carbin rims may only be a bit wider and maybe with your tyre choice the tyre does not come up any wider.

Measure the tyre width on both rims is there a difference if not you wont feel any difference. Some tyres do not spread well others do. Tyre choice is probably your problem.

I ride early most days and i have no issues with feeling fueled. I do eat well and eat plenty of carbs every day as i ride nearly every day. In the morning i eat some weatabix and go. if its a longer ride like on day then i eat a couple of eggs as well as ceral. Sometimes i have the food of champions toast with lots of honey and peanut butter. If that doesnot supply enough calories i dont know what will. For the first two hours though you should be relying on your stored sugars which obviously must be replenished on go. I find bannana are good for this and if i have any flapjack. For really long rides peanuts are good if i am not stopping.i am trying at present to avoid having any gels and so far i am succeding barely had one for a whole month.

Alot of differing opinions above. Here my practical experience.

Got two different rims with the same tyre on it conti race kings 2.2″

One i can run 20 psi in the other i cant because the tyre squirms. One rim is a velocity blunt sl internal width of 20mm. The other rim is a ryde trace trail internal width 25mm. You guessed it the wider rim and it the internal width that makes a difference that offer the lower tyre pressures.

Wider rims work by better supporting the sidewalls thus reducing flex. Lateral grip is related to ammount of sidewall flex. Also the contact patch becomes wider and shorter. this improves lateral grip and reduce rolling resistance slightly. Physics does not lie. This is what wider rims do the wider the better really.

I know which wheels i prefer riding.

I certainly dont have lots of cash but i now have 13. Every time i say no more i find something else i just have to have. The latest is a 1948 raleigh record ace waiting to be built up with royce components and a klein quantum.

Carbon paste now why didn’t i think of that. Thanks i’ll do that later.

Carbon paste now why didn’t i think of that. Thanks i’ll do that later.

The only way to get under 1500g ( i have done it twice) is with tubular carbon rims. My mtb 29er wheels use carbon tunular rims in 28h sapim laser spokes and hubs that weight 450g. you could use a carbon tubular rim 28h, sapkm laser or cxray spokes and dt swiss 24h hubs for something under 1400g. I did a set like this for my wifes bike.

All the carbon clincher rims are 450g or more getting under 1500g is quite diffcult unless you go with 24H rims and then expensive light hubs will be required. i have built a set for myself of 24h pacenti sl25 rims with cxrays and novatec hubs that weigh 1555g that are holding together quite well.

Thes best way to get light disc brake wheels is with handbuilts.

The barro mojntains are good fast xc tyres. I have a set of 1st gen gaot muds and they dont clog up but grip is not great either. I will be trykng the new gato 29er tyre out soon. The saguro tyres i have as tubs and on dry and damp trails they are supberb. In sloppy mud well i have no control.

Geax is vittoria now. The tnt tyres are not light though.

The resale value is a good thing ill buy ome for my daughter soon ansd i know i will get most of money back when she grows out of it to fund the next one.

xc race on sunday in sherwood pines should be a windy mudfest horrow show.

Iffy does not describe the weather it will be nasty but that means i have to ride. ill be out at 6:30 am tomorrow for my usual spin.

Oh and those that say i have 5k on a set of wheels and they are still going strong that great but 5000 miles is not alot in the grand scheme of things. For some that is less than 6 months riding.

If you know thw moment of interia of bike wheel you will see that changes in angular velocity of the wheel to give its proper term do not take as much energy as you might think. The stark reality is wheel weight makes a small difference on a hill but you can almost ignore the contribution of the moment of interia as it small compared to the kinetic energy in the rest of the bike and rider. People sweat the small stuff for a seconds gain on strava like we are pro’s or something.

Deciding on a wheelset based ln weight is bad selection. Gram pinching on a wheel i drtoduced comprismises. Hubs with small bearings are light but the bearing wear out quickly especially in the wet. For low cost hubs there is little better tha miche primato’s or shimano ultegra but these are nlt light hubs. Light rims get light in two ways by thining down the brake track (stans apha 340 lr ryde pulse sprint) or by thinning down the spoke nipple bed, well that is alot of rims. One of the few rims that thumbs it nose at being weight weenie and is all sensible is the h plus son archetype.

You can have a senisble 1700g wheelset with the archetype rim or one that is 300g lighter with lighter rims and hubs with smaller bearings. Do you really think you will be any faster in a meaningful way unless you spend on a deep aero wheelset. Will the ride be any more enjoyable or is all keeping up with the jones.

In short the more you try to justify a new purchase the more you will. You have to decide what you want. Depenable for very long time or a wheelset that requires more hub maintance or a rim that wears out quicker, maybe both.

If you suple try dugast fast bird tubulars. geax saguro tyres are pretty good. I have the tubular version worth trying in clincher form i think.

Like you have to ask. Shimano brakes require very little maintance and when they do need bleeding it is easy. Add to that the feel is always good and so is the braking torque. Even deore brakes are excellent. Slx, xt and xtr just get a little better lighter and more expensive.

That tool is meant to adjust that play never tried it yet but i was talking to calvin at ice bike about it . Mine mech barely has any movement. No slap at all So no need of the tool just yet.

A couple of posts have grab my attention. The comment about the ambrosio wheels giving a good ride is down tonthe tubular tyres. They give a better ride than clincher ever do. I have a set too and the ride is sublime but that is down to the 27mm paves run at 80 psi i think. Also if you run the physics 0.5kg saving on your carbon tubular wheels does not add 2 minutes to your climb time so it will also be the aero difference. Weight may a few seconds. The aero difference and stiffness diference will acount for the rest.

One poster commented on the ride quality of pacenti sl23 rims. I have to disagree. I have a set and j have run vittoria open corsa tyres and schwable one tubless tyres on them. The ride is almost as good as i get on tubs. Tyre choice make a big difference as does the pressure you run. Radial wheel stiffness does not impact ride quality. Your hed wheels are very stiff radilly they have to be or they would fall apart.

Wheel Weight only makes a difference if it part an overal diet of bike and rider otherwise 300g will not help in any meaningful way. Loose a few kg of rider and bike and it notiable on a hill. Lighter wheels do feel differnet but are not faster because they are light. More aerodynaic helps with speed mlre than lower weight. no point in chnaging frlmnthe fulcrum 5 wheels if all you go for is another narrow shallowish rim. At least make it wide at least youbget a ride comfort and handling benefit. Also stiffer wheels perform better (lateral stiffness that is) many factiry wheels can be a bit lacking there and that hurts spoke life too. Stiff wheels mean less spoke fatigue you see as the spokes have less change in length when loaded.

So what ever wheel you go for make sure is laterally stiff and wide rimmed. If you have those two things yoj will be happy regardless of how much they weigh. Or ride tubs it better in every way. I have a lovely set of 28 spoke hed c2 tubular rims laced to campagnolo record hubs. Stiff sort of light and a sublime ride. I am only quicker on my wide deep aero carbon wheelset and not buy much either Although vanity tells me i am.

Park tool do a tool now for this. Must get one for the shop.http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-clutch-wrench-dw-2

Never had a problem shipping my bike in a carboard box. I do though pack a bike that i can afford to be damaged and not be too cut up as on the way back last summer air italia messed up the baggage and we did not see it for two weeks. The box arrived a bit battered.bike was fine though.

The only way to predict the weight of a build is to weigh every part as you get. Very time consuming and it does not really add to the fun of riding.

A narrow wide chainring is a good idea. It is true that some rings are softer than others. Try a race face ring they might fair better and they come as narrow wide. I find ta rings to be the most durable but no narrow wide. The teeth are quite tall which aids retention and the ramps and pins dont seem to cause much of a problem.

Oh i have a set of heavy saint m800 cranks which i have not tried to sell yet. Really who could break them.

My m985 xtr 40/28T chainset is 640g Xt is 100g more i think and slx morw than that. Drop the inner ring and xtr chainsets would be quire light. Thw new m9000 is a shade lighter again. If yiu can afford xtr then why not It has always been the best for me anyway.

Some hubs have been made this way too. I dont think hope did this but they may have. This kind of drilling pattern is done with some paired lacing on specially drilled rims. Its a bit of a mare to be honest and i would not bother, i have refused such builds before as the extra time to work out what you need to do is weel time you coild be using doing something else.

Ashas been pointed out wheree you live and the time of day you pedal at has a big difference. I think i am quite lucky living in suffolk. The volume of traffic means drivers are quitw ploite. I ride early morning on country lanes where is little traffic and the cars i do find pass very conciderately. I also ride after rush hour traffic and the roads are again quiet even the main roads.

That enough about me though. There are too many cars on the road. This leads to poorer driving standards. I notice it when i drive anywhere busy, hell my driving standards dip when i get cought in traffic. Which is why i dont like driving much anymore. The onlt solution is road pricing and make driving during the working day expensive In towns, cities and the main routes. That will force car sharing and some to leave there cars at home. It wont happen though And traffic volume is only going to get worse if left unchecked.

Oh i have used latex tubes in carbon rims without issue until i had a couple of unexplanied tube failures which i have never got with latex tubes in my alloy rims. So not sure if was random tube failures unrelated to the rims or caused by the rims. Fortunatley i was barely moving.

Front wheels do not need as many spokes as the rear wheel so the recomendation of pacenti sl23 rims on da hubs is a good one but 24f/28r is better And just as reliable. In fact though the 18h da front hub is here and so is the 18h pancenti sl23 rim. I can assure you an 18f/24r pacenti sl23 wheelset with da9000 hubs is a very stiff sub 1500g wheelset that due to its stiffness has good spoke life. Should be fine for a 80kg rider but the higher spoke countnis a more conservative build. I do build both.

Lb wheels are fine but carbon and thing is carbon wheels should not be your only wheels. I reminded myself of that this morning when braking in the wet. It ok but bite of the brakes with pacenti rims is better in the wet. Even better on ambrosio nemesis rims.

A rim like the pacenti or h plus archtype is nicw and wide and tyres like the gp4000s really spread out and that larger air volume sort out the ride comfort and the side walls flex less improving the way the bike handles in the bends. Tubeless schwable one tyres are great and are easy to set up onnpacenti rims. I have a set on my own pacenti/Royce build (20f/24R) and they have been my winter training wheels and they have done very well indeed. The tyres are excellent.

Do you use 26:36t though. A 30t ring will give that ratio But your top gear will be alot lower. To keep your top gear ratio you will need a 33t ring (actualky a 32.7T ring but thats not possible). 32t is the comprimise. You must be a spinner though.

Normally short climbs i stand up and in a high gear go for it. For longer climbs i sit and spin and i may stand for short periods. On very steep long climbs like on i did in italy where i had no idea how steep it was going to be until i got to the climb i stand up and grind as my suffolk gearing was a little too tall. I could have chnaged it but That would have cost money.

Ultimatleh there is no right and wrong way. If you get up without having to walk you have done in a right way.

Same applies to riding off road but the bumpier the terrian the more i stand aslo i never spin off road it is alway a low cadance effort under 60 mOstly.

if they are j bend spokes then any relevent spoke from sapim, dt swiss e.t.c will work if its the right length. if it striaght pull chickens make straight pull spokes available and will cut them to length for dealers and dt swiss comps are available through madison. So no need to get special spokes from madision whicn are propbaly pillar. Sapim and dt swiss make the best spokes. Wheelsmith fro the u.s and alpna are apparantly pretty good. Pillar not so sure and i will never find out either as i have no issue with sapim so kmhave no reason to change.

I like veloicty rims. Velocity blunt sl is a 430g xc rim and the 35mm wide blunt is heavier and more of a all mountian trail rim. Both are tubeless compatible.