Well MAdison list them. If you want any let me know I can order.

workshop@thecycleclinic.co.uk

The thing to understand for magic gearing is that every tooth you add/take away adds/takes away 1/4″ from the total chain length needed. So wrap your chain around your 32/16T cogs and bring the two ends of the chain together and see what fraction of inch excess chain you have. Then add/ takeaway teeth until you have a chain that joins.

For example my Orange Evo2 ran a 32/16T with a tensioner. Without the tensioner I had between 1/2″-3/4″ too much chain so chain the front ring to 34T sorted this out and the chain joins without giving to much slack.

I could also run;
a 30/16T taking 1″ out of the chain,
or 36/18T adding 1″ to the chain e.t.c
you get the idea I hope.

I would use Continental X-king supersonic tyres at 440g each and their lightweight MTB tubes. Also the new CB eggbeater 3 or Eggbeater Ti pedals are lighter and now have bearings that last.

Also don’t forget rim tape. Some of the OEM stuff is quite heavy. Velox Jante de fond is some of the lightest about and is cheap.

For wheels I would go with Ryde Edge rim (371g -claimed each for race/sub 85kg riders) Sapim race spokes and XTR/hope pro 3 hubs with 32 spokes. That would be pretty light. Although if the A2Z hubs are lighter still I would go with them. Alu nipples can save some real weight too but to have a habit of seizing.

For post and stem I would go with Thomsen Masterpiece, as light as sensible priced carbon but made of metal.

Try your LBS a good one will remove it for nothing – I would not bother charging someone for that, it far too simple.

Given I ran a 1×9 setup for a while before single speeding the bike without a guide or tesnioner and not loosing the chain once you do not always need a guide. I rode the bike up at Thetford on the single track there so no rocks or freeriding there. Other places and riding styles may necessitate the need for a guide but it is not always essential. I also ran the 1×9 setup with the existing 9 speed ring. Give how easy it is to break a chain and fit a guide and fit a new chain ring I would set up you 1×10 set up take it for a test ride if it comes off head home and fit these two bits when the arrive in the post. No need to spend more than you have to is there.

I love roading as much as MTBing. Conti Gatorskins are wonderful is you want to avoid punctures but so are GP4000s (I sell both).

Also feel free to sue you MTB clipless pedals on your road bike. I have always used CB eggbeaters or SPD’s on my road bike as I use them on my MTB as well – it saves on shoes.

Most of all get out and ride – oh do carry 2 spare tubes + a pump that can take you to 100 psi. CO2 cartridges also work like the ones posted above. I also sell those and use them it makes short work of infalting a tyre.

New I can think of the Pipe dream Sirrus but at £385 it not cheap. Comes with sliding dropouts though.

All vertical dropout HT frames are single speed frames in my book. All you need is to pick the right cogs. Pretty simple as well. I have two an 2003 Orange Evo2 and a 1989 Marin Pallisades that run magic gears.

I would single speed what you have. You won’t regret it!

Tifosi CK1 is pretty good bike and come with Campag Veloce. The RRP is £999.99 but no one including me sells them for that.

Spec
Campagnolo Veloce (shifter and mechs/Miche cranks and cogs
Campagnolo Khamsin CX wheels
Selle Italia X1 flow saddle
Cinelli/3T handlebar and stem
Vittoria cross XG tyres
Tifosi alloy post

You can see the spec on my website http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk or at the chcickencycles webasite which is where they come from.

I use Park tools soke tension meter. It is in expensive and the wheels I ahve built have all stayed very stright and round. I use the tension meter to check the tension aat the end of the build to see if is even. given I build wheels that have less than 0.2mm run out latterally and radially the tension is always pretty even.

While 32 hole may work and be durable to me it is a fudge because of a lack of options. There just needs to be more options. There is a demand for 24 spoked wheels and why I should be restricted to factory built wheelsets I don’t know when I am perfectly capable of building such a wheel my self.

I would dearly love a decent range of 24 hole hubs with rear having 16 holes drive side and 8 NDS but no one makes hubs like that for sale seperatley.

Fulcrum do the 16 2x DS and 8 radial NDS spoke pattern and Fulcrum is Campag in disguise. Also does anyone know of any resonably priced 254 hole hubs and rims as the DT swiss ones are not resonably priced.

For steel how about Kona P2 -plenty second hand and new they are not too much either.
For carbon Pace are remaking the RC31.

Those are the one I would use.

I have been using BBB lockons and they seem fine.

BB is more expensive though. Magic gearing is cheaper in the long run.

For MoM resurfacing read this. I would go with these guidlines, they are evidence based and are kept up to date.
http://guidance.nice.org.uk/TA44

MoM resurfacing is used if the patient is going to survive longer than the hip replacement, given your age I would say that is a given.

Speaking as some one who did some PhD work on hip replacements I can tell you the following. Hip replacement is very serious surgury but I am sure you were under no illusions. I watched a couple of operations as part of the work I did, it was brutal building work.

The risk of infection is greater as bone is far more suseptable to infection due to poorer blood supply. Infection can mean the failure of the implant. For a patient with a failed implant due to infection I once CAD designed a mould from the chaps X-rays and CNC milled it from Nylon. A cast was made from the mould in PMMA cement loaded with antibiotics of the chaps hip. This was fitted instead of the failed implant and he to lie in bed for 6 weeks or so while the PMMA cement “implant” helped deal with the infection. Failure of implants is relatively common unfortunatley. I have not worked in the field for some time so I do not the current failue rates. They would have improved over the last ten years anyway. Hip replacement have a life of 25 years max, it can be alot less. If the hip has to be re done the second replacment never lasts as long.

So put it off as long as you can, however the results of opperation can be life changing on the upside. Have a through discussion with a consultant and get all the info you need. They don’t mind answering questions.

Ice tools kits are decent enough, I have never tried X-tools. Parks make some kits like the AK-37 but not cheap. Parks tools are very good though. Good tools make maintenence easy. If you do not have a stand already I would recomend one as working on a bike without a stand is PITA. Working on a bike in a sturdy stand is a dooddle. Skimping o fthings like this just makes you wish you never started the job. Don’t ask me how I know!

Ferry is waste of time.
Do visit the Anglican Cathedral, the docks, the Willianson art gallary and the Tat. Such a lovely city.

So many decent pubs and places for a night out. A very freindly place.

You can if you pick the right cog sizes. I have two bikes with vertical dropout that I run single speed. Neither has a tensioner. With the right cogs you can have between 0- 1/4″ excess chain. More than 1/4″ would cause issues but a bit less is perfect. I can be done!

Chains don’t stretch, they wear! I run two single speeds without tensioners and I have no problems. Chains wear fact. They should be changed at 0.75% wear in any case where it is a SS or geared. That is the wear point on a SS without tensioner that may start to cause slippage. So I do not see the problem. Every time a post appears about SS without tensioners there is always some who posts about “chain stretch”. I don’t to sound angry or rude but I feel I already have. There is a lot of misinfortation out there that does not chime with my experience of riding SS for quite some time.

Yes you can run a alfine without a tensioner or use one it is up to you. If a half link has to be used then use one but you can add or take two teeth total from the rear cog or chain ring to have the same effect. Take or add 6 teeth aand you will take or add 1 1/2 links total to the chain length. Doing this may allow you to keep the desired ratio.

Or use a tensioner it is up to you. There is no right or wrong way.

I caan think of alternatives but they are not cheap e.g. Burgtec

There are specific bearing removal tools and even bearing presses. Wheels manufacturing do home mechanic versions of these tools.

Hope do a drift though and

I know that!

Unfortunatley Shimano do not sell the plastic cover seperatley so if you break it when removing your need a new BB.

Raceface BB do supply spares for there X-type BB’s. So you can remove the bearings and put good quality 6805 bearings in and fit new plastic covers. I do not know if the are compatable with FSA cranks though.

What about Sapim Race. They hold tension really well, they do not twist when tensioning and allow really straight round wheels i.e. less than 0.2mm and they stay that way. They also come with excellent brass nipples that do not distort at high tensions.

My experience of building with 2.0/1.5/2.0 mm spokes has been spoke twisting when tensioning and truing so once the wheel is done and stress relieved it it is ~0.5mm roundness and lateral true. Futher tension adjustments to straighten make rounder just twists the spokes so the wheel goes out again. To me this not good enough so I don’t use them for general purpose wheels. I would on a race wheel though but only on the front if weight is really a big issue.

Also true but I manage and like the ride I get from narrow tyres. Also the narrow tyres are on old steel framed MTB’s (with lack of tyre clearence) with steel forks. Maybe the flexibilty of the frames helps out here (these two bike are not a stiff as a modern Alu or carbon frames).

rom that Schwalbe page:
Small diameter tires have a higher rolling resistance at the same tire pressure, because tire deformation is proportionally more important, in other words the tire is “less round”. Wider tires roll better than narrow ones. This assertion generally generates skepticism, nevertheless at the same tire pressure a narrow tire deflects more and so deforms more.

Very true. Tyre pressure is by far the dominate term in the equation for rolling resistance along with rider weight and rolling radius. Narrow tyre run higher pressure in general and leads to their lower rolling resitance.

I run 2.0″ tyres on my 17 mm rims on one bike and 1.7″ on another but this suits my riding and saves weight. I keep my 2.3″ tyres for another bike with 19mm internal widths. Really I should stick to 2.1″ tyres with that bike.

The proper tool is the way to do it. If it where my shop and someone came in wanting the nut fitted I would install it and not bother charging as the tool makes it a 30 second job. I am sure many LBS’s would not bother charging for this either.

Drop me an e-mail with the length you need. I have a shop and will happily post you a spoke or two. They are Sapim Race and are £0.50 each and postage will be at cost of the stamps. I will probably have them in stock. If you don’t know the length I will phone madison on your behalf and find out for you.

workshop@thecycleclinic.co.uk

Malcolm

If its rough that qwuickly then maybe there was some pitting/brinnelling on the cones or hubs? If the sealing is no good on these hubs then maybe that could be a cause.

Bearings:
Also what bearings did you use? If these bearings came from an LBS in a cage then they could be grade 1000 – rough as sand paper. Shimano specify grade 40 for there lower end hubs and grade 25 for the high end I think. I cannot stress enought the importance of good quality balls for bearings. Also use loose balls as you get more in and the load is spread more. When I service hubs in my shop, even if its a cheap bike with cheap hubs they always get done with grade 25 or better loose balls. The hubs then run super smooth.

Grease: I have not tried Park’s grease at all, I use Rock n Rolls super web. Not cheap but the its damm good grease.

Hopes are lovely I have a set, but XT hubs run just as smooth for a long time (I have a set too) and are alot cheaper. I would buy XT again without hesitation and service them anually.

Rock n Rolls blue or red lube depending on whether I am doing the road or mountain bike.

It leaves the chain quite clean and grit does not seem to stick and it lasts.

Rock n Rolls blue or red lube depending on whether I am doing the road or mountain bike.

It leaves the chain quite clean and grit does not seem to stick and it lasts.

I have tried building wheels with Sapim Leader spokes (same as DTswiss rev’s) and I found they twisted a little when tensioning and truing. This meant stress relieving always through the wheel out a bit. Not by much only to about 0.5mm radially and latterally on a 700c rim but since I always aim for roundess and trueness of less than 0.2mm this was not accpetable to me. Given the width of the rim proposed they might be fine but it all depends on what you consider and striaght and round wheel. My definition is a bit stricter than most wheel manufacturers it seems. Also 2.0/1.5/2.0mm spokes are fine (in theory) on the front and for the non drive side rear they should be used on the drive side rear.

I would stick to comps as the wheel will be much stronger. Also I ride rims that are much narrower (17mm internal) and never have any problems with the wheels bashing them around thetford forest and local trials which get bumpy.

Nowt wrong with velocity rims though from what I have heard.

M780’s are easier to clip into though. I have M520 and in the cold and with a bit of snow they were a bastard to clip into though unless I cleared snow from the pedal and cleat. I never had that problem with eggbeaters but they fell apart rather quickly which is more annoying. However as I own a shop and I bought mine on a special offer they were even cheap so I don’t mind.

Icidently the price for these are now £22 from CRC where I have marked up at £20, a bit to keen.

North Essex is lovely but essex is a big county and commuting across it take alot of time. I live on the Essex/Suffolk borders and the countryside is lovely but it is roadie country.

Eppin is best place I have riden in Essex. Danbury’s trails are short loops as far as I can tell more for playing around than speding hours in the saddle not riding the same thing twice. I would get a road bike and ride with your local club as that trip to Epping is a longish one.

Wheels manufacturing do one as well along with a bearing press. Pretty good tool as well.

njee20 I think your comments and based on an overinterpreation of my post. I have stated there is nothing wrong with carbon frames. I know steel and aluminium bikes can have frame failures in a crash – I am not daft. I never claimed that steel frames were indestructable you claim I did, a big dofference. Steel, carbon, aluminium alloys are all good frame materials.
I suggest njee20 try reading my post again!

Went out for a couple of hours and took the bike whoose brakes do no work in the cold snow. Should have thought of that. Riing in Glesmford/Standsed/Long Melford area in Suffolk. Slow going.

What passes for single track around here.

I am sure I have a new 6 speed shifter in the shop. Cheap but ugly though.