I am not sure that 28’s have lower rolling resistance than 23’s as 23’s can be run at higher pressure (slightly). The higher the pressure the lower rolling resistance. If the pressure are equal I think you have trouble noticing the difference.

I ride a single speed too and I have also found that 20-25mm of movement does not cause an issue for me.

It would have to be very slack for the chain to jump of.

They’re a bit, well, skinny. If you want to run tyres over 2.3in maybe have a look at the 719s? Stans and DT are also good. If you already have the 717s then I wouldn’t bother changing though, tbh.

The 719 has a recomended max tyre width has a max tyre width of 2.3″ The 717 has a max tyre width of 2.1″ I think. These are Mavic recomendations and I happen to agree with them after having tried wide tyres on narrow rims and the same tyre on wider rims.
For the 717 rim I would not go any wider than 2.0″ as I work on rule of thumb for MTB tyre max tyre width = 3x internal rim width.
For Road tyres I stick to max tyre width = 2x internal rim width. Some may think this too concervative but it seem to work.

On my Rigida Snypers another 17mm internal rim width I run 1.7″ tyres but that’s more mud clearance. Not many choice for narrow tyres now though.

The reason is narrow rims do not properly support the sidewalls of wider tyres so you get more sinkage (more sinkage will increase rolling resistnace a bit) and tyre squirm. While you could run a 2.3″ on a 717 it will not handle as well as a 2.3″ on a 721 rim for example. I have tried this.

I think the 717 rims are fine as well so are the DTswiss rims.

If the spoke tension is not even then tyre pressure may put the wheel out.

Spoke tension should be even on each side of the wheel within reason. If the spoke nipples are siezed there is little point in trying to true the wheel as they should be replaced. Turing a wheel with siezed nipples means it will have uneven spoke tension.

However it may not be the wheel, it may be the tyre as brakes has said. Within a 1mm side to side movement is probably O.K but is it round. It is important to true radially and latteraly. I hope your LBS did that.

When I true I true for even spoke tension and to get the wheel down to 0.5mm or less radial or lateral movement. Radial and lateral movement on good quality rims can be got down to ~0.2mm while keeping even spoke tension. The more even the tension the more durable the wheel.

Get the nipples changed or it will happen again.

Sturmey still make the 3speed hub has in 119, 117, 111 and 108mm OLD if you cannot find an NOS AW hub which last forevever.

There is also a 5 speed with OLD of 119 and 111mm

26lbs sound normal for that spec. Marzocchi’s Z1/Z2 may be heavy but they are such a good fork it does not matter.

I somethimes can be found on a fixie, I live in the countryside and do own a single pair of skinney jeans. I quite like them but they brakes.

Oh I love DT Swiss hubs too there freewheel mechanism is just sublime.

240’s on DT Swiss M480 with 28 or 32 holes and DT swiss comps, front laced 2x (or 3x for extra stiffness) and rear 3x DS and 2x NDS would make a lovely light wheelset. Have not worked out the cost though.

Get out and ride and you will figure it out. Also if your local road club is friendly join them for ride. Riding in group is so much more fun.

What about Mavic 521 rims on Hope hubs with some Sapim Race or DT Swiss comps. These won’t cost you £500 which surely must be a bonus.

Never tried stans rims which is why I am not suggesting them at the moment.

I have a set of hopes on 721 rims with Sapim race spokes and they are fine wheels, very strong and durable, had them 7 years now they do everything including DH.

Well take a look at Mavic own recomended tyre width for the open pro it is 19-28mm widths before you pass comment on my credability! I am sure you can run wider on a open pro and live but it not recomended thats all. I personally would use a wider rim for >28mm tyre.

Good pads can make all ther difference to the performance of V-brakes. I use Aztec Charcol on mine and they are fine. Clarks make some good one too. Cheaper than discs to.

I would do the following;

New v-brake pads (Aztec charcol or similar).

Suspension service is a must if has not been done at all. Bare minimium overhaul drivetrain if it old and worn, and service hubs.

If we knew the current wheel components and what riding you do we could recomend a hub/rim combo that would be an upgrade. Well built wheels can transform a bike.

Replace worn drivetrain componenets.
Replace worn BB, headset e.t.c and service hubs if wheel are kept.
If you are using ISIS BB then replace with a new Shimano external BB and new cranks. ISIS BB where rubbish when new and they have not got better with age. A flawed design.

If you cannot make time for seperate excerise then excerise needs to part of your daily routine e.g the commute to work. If this is not practicable then changing your cicumstances would be preferable to using a diet like Atkins to lose weight as it on thing to lose it but to keep it of means staying on a Atkins like diet that is no way to live. I do not know what your journey to work is like or the length of your working day, only you can decide if it practical to commute by bike for example.

I thinks diets are a quick fix solution to problem that does not address the underlying problem. Adjust you daily routines to make exercise a part of your daily activities.

Pipedream Scion which is a nice steel hard tail?

Ditch the tensioner fit a 3/32″ or 1/8″ chain and the fit correctly sized sprokets that allow this.

This Orange is running a 34T TA 9 speed chain ring, a 16T rear and 1/8″ chain because it cheaper. Relaible running for several hundred miles.

Adding/taking away 1 tooth on either sproket add/removes 1/4″ from the chain wrap needed. So it is easy to single speed without a tensioner.

As already said you don’t nee a guide. Single speeds are meant to be simple.

Open pro’s are 15mm internal width so max tyre width is 30mm which narrow for a CX tyre. Many are 35mm wide or wider. For that reason I would not use them for CX unless its a CX wheel that spends alot of the time on the road or you intend to run 28c tyres.

Mavic X719 in 29″ which would be more than fine. I have never tried the touring rims like the Mavic A119, A319 or A 719 as they take tyres up 47mm width. Alternatively Rigida make some lower cost rims like the Sputnik that should work if you intend to get wheels built. I am no going to mention Stans rims as that has already been said. Spoke count will depnd on rider weight. 32/36 should be pretty bombproof with Sampin Race spokes. As for hubs Shimano MTB hubs should work well.

However why bother getting a set built when Campag make the excellent Khamsin CX wheels Sciroco and Vento CX wheels. All these are good and the Kamsin start at around £130 for the pair. Campag wheels I can supply as does practically everybody else and custom build wheels I also do but would be more expensive than a pair of Khamsins.

As for tyres I would look at Conti or Vittoria personally.

Well this is quite fun to ride a 1989 Marin Pallisades

But that a young bike next to my 1981 Alan competizione. However many more older bikes are in use over on Retrobike. I suggest the OP who think his 06 bike is old has look over there.

I ride an 03 Orange Evo2

A mid ninties Kona steel of course
Nowt wrong with old.

Stem length is determined not by what other people use but on your torso and arm length measurments.

You want the bike to fit you correctly right?

I ride a fixie but cannot skid, In fact I cannot see how it safe. A front brake is the minium on a fixe I think. The Kona thanfully has a font and rear and bottle cage mounts unlike most silly fixie frames with no braze ons.

I ride a fixie but cannot skid, In fact I cannot see how it safe. A front brake is the minium on a fixe I think. The Kona thanfully has a font and rear and bottle cage mounts unlike most silly fixie frames with no braze ons.

I sugest you go shopping. Reading other peoples opinions is a poor subsitiute for having your own from test rides. If a shop does not do a proper test then try another shop.

Rock n Roll as the IHN said dogs bollocks.

Knog multitool is pretty compact available here

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/knog/multi-18-tool-ec020093

or here with me for less http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk (£30)

I agree with the de stickering. My Orange Evo2 is powdercoated white with no badging anywhwere.

My Kona mid ninties something, is fantastic looking beast (I agree with Glitter Gary) again painted black with no badging.

My other bike is a 1989 Marin Palisiades again poweder coated white with no badging.

Old bikes ust look simpler and better proportioned. Pipedream though do a lovely frame with a simple paint job and graphics.

I have not been any where where I have thought I needed a full sus bike over a hardtail/rigid (I have both), I have been places where I have felt I need more skills though! I have seen people do 10ft dropoff on hardtails before at Chicksands, have you seen the tricks trials riders pull of on there bikes.

If I had £1000 to spend on an MTB I would spend it on a hardtail. The money spent on a full sus frame and shock does not get spent on wheels or something else crtical.

That said there are some resonable full sus frames. I think you will have to travel and test ride a few on some trails. Its like buying a car, test first.

If the shops around you are hopeless then I feel for you as scotland is a vast place.

Yes you need a 59 or 60cm frame. The paddy wagon is a good bike take a look at one. In the 5 years I have owned I have found the wheels robust. The only problem I have with it now is last year I went out without my 15mm spanner and got a flat and had to ride home 8 miles on a flat tyre which damaged the rim a bit. Not the bikes fault at all. Also the conti ultrasprts fitted are not very good. It worth fitting 28c Gator Skins. But all tyres fitted to a £500-600 bike are going to be a bit cheap and puncture prone.

Knee problems are down to fit issues witht he bike not SS! I have been riding SS for years and it so much more fun than gears.

I run a 2.3″ vertical on a 721 and that fine. A 719 has a maximium tyre width of 2.3″ so while a 2.4″ may work I would go for a 521 rim if you were to stick to Mavic.

I would not run 2.3″ on the 19 series rims they are too narrow imo.

All bars can break. Two incidents without details of how it happened. Maybe these are XC bars and some folk tried a 20ft dropoff with them.

Is this a notification/recall by Nitto themselves or something else.

Sorry for the plug how about a Traitor luggernaut if you take a 56 cm frame. Steel, lugged and with a Sturmey Archer 3sp for £600. I have one here.

Other than that the Kona Paddy Wagon is a fine bike I ride one. Cinelli Gazzetta is also a fine bike but they are more expensive at at £899 not many deals avaialable as not many stock it. Chickens is the cinelli distibutor.
http://www.chickencycles.co.uk/index.php?cat=1&sub=118&ord=2

workshop@thecycleclinic.co.uk

Your mech will still work.

If you are running a single chainring on this bike them why do you need a front mech? Does this crankset have a bash guard and 1 ring in which case removing the bash will require you get shorter chain ring bolts.

You post is a little confusing.

I have used ODI’s before and they were good but I am now using BBB cheap and chearful grips and work ust as well.

I agree with the above. I also build wheels as part of my business and that last thing I want to do is spend more time than I need to building the wheel. I therefore thrust no published ERD or hub measurements and do the measurments my self and use spoke calc spreadsheet to calculate the spoke lengths. I then build the wheel relatively quickly.

Also measure the ERD at three or four places around the rim and average. It really helps.

Well Silverfish have stock. I can order if you like if you have problems in sourcing one.

There is:
31.6x350mm aluminium for £40,
the micro aluminium 31.6x400mm for £53,
the micro aluminium 31.6x400mm layback for £53,
the carbon micro 31.6×300 or 400mm for £75.

workshop@thecycleclinic.co.uk

I don’t have a post card! Must take a photo.

Transfil cables and outer are pretty cheap. I’s what I use and I have no poriblems with them. Also use them in the shop.

SDG bell air is the best saddle I ever sat on followed by the Sella Italia C2.

I would agree with that. Every bike I have is built to my spec spec by me. Off the peg gets you so far but having it built for what you want to do with it and to fit you is far better.

Tifosi CK2 comes in under budget and should meet your needs. Also its not one of the ususal suspects.