Where these best place to find XC and marathon events in the uk?

Tubeless ready tyres are porous or can be. Its hit and miss. They need selant to stop the air leaking. Personally I think tubeless ready is a bit rubbish but some brands do it better than others. With some brands tubeless ready is really quite variable.

Just wait a few day and see if it stops. You’ll need to top up. If it continues leaking your first port of call is tweeks.

I’m run my own shop and I am it’s only employee. I know my wage for the hours I have to put in is not even minimum wage. This industry operates on low overal margins so pay in the u.k is never high.

With 26 bikes now yes it’s an obsession. I have built my wife three and she doesn’t ride. Thinking about the next two for my daughter.

N+1 anonymous helpline. Do you have a bicycle problem? We here to help. Do it.

To be fair yo crc you can ask for PM pick up a you like but courier firms do not offer am or PM pick windows for third party collections.

Small companies can work on trust with the customer more than bigger firms can. Crc will get folk trying it in all the time otherwise. That does mess up it for the people that get the wrong thing though.

As it’s been said mistakes happen but it’s the willingness to put it right that the key bit. Given the issues I have with third party collections I normally refund the cost of return shipping and advise on how to book it. It cheaper and the customer has far more control of pickup. Third party collections are a problem and there is no easy fix.

Being ask to keep a bike that’s too small is a bit cheeky though.

I had this recently. I hope the OP is properly insured. Barclays bike insurance got me out of the hole. I was in france. the camper was in a the hotel carpark with the bike locked to it. it was a locked carpark but in the morning the bike was gone. I provided a quote for replacement to the insurance and they accepted it. I did the quote based on trade pricing against the spec of the bike stolen.

So good insurance works. bike replaced and building it up.

download spocalc from Sheldon website. it what i use for all spoke length calculation (thousands of wheels) and it has never been wrong unless i input the wrong data.

those lengths are so different i would check your input info. Also if you are selecting rims and relying on the calculator knowing the correct ERD then stop. input the info yourself to ensure the same data is being used.

29er rigid+ bike is my next MTB for 2019. Is the OP going to run it single speed though.

I have several tension gauges. Two DT swiss and two sapim gauges. I use the latest sapim gauge. The calibration chart is good but the spring tension on the gauge was not set right from the factory. I happen to have a load cell calibration jig too. So now all 4 of my gauges are properly calibrated. I can drop three and still have one to use.

The park guage is o.k. it need calibrating though. the main problem is if it is used regularly. it becomes sticky after a while. fine for occasional use but if you are like me and build every day the park guage us limiting. when i started building wheels i used the park guage but had to measure three times to be sure of the reading i got.

//i have a cheap no name alloy frame of ebay (an old one nicely weld too) anodised in purple with matching anodised brakes, Q/R and other bits (I sent them off all at the same time) that weighs 6kg.

The new look 785 should be a bit lighter.

njee20 well done. how did you calculate spoke lengths? Spoke calculator dont do striaght pull spoke normally. to work it out you normally have to do a cad drawing which is a PITA or guess (I can guess right). do you have another way.

To the stand grail rider your rims are heavier than the DT Swiss RR411’s and your spoke may be heavier. brass nipples if used also add weight over alloy. The weight will be somewhere. The CK R45 disc hubs are also quite heavy for what they cost @440g/pair.

To the guy with the Kinlin XR200 rims and bitex hubs. your wheels fail because they are not stiff enough. when I built with the XR200 and I still do sometimes I do a 28 spoke minimum and stipulate a max rider weight of 80kg. A 24 spoke rear (I did one once for a youth racer) was too flexy and never built it again. the young rider was very light so not an issue. reuse the hubs but on stiffer rims like the Kinlin XR31T/RT.

Munkster the IRC/Pacenti combo is tight but doable. I have tyre levers that make it possible. it is tighter than the Kinlin IRC combo though but they do seat and seal with compressed air. The kinlin IRC or schwalbe combo is so easy it is a doddle (track pump is all that is needed) and they way it should be.

Th point of road tubeless is they should not unseat when the tyre is at low pressure allowing to to ride still. If they unseat then that is a problem only solved with CO2. Also the tyre can be fixed at the road side externally with worms and flexible superglue. I would never advise putting a tube in at the side of the road as it faff and not necessary. pretty much all but the biggest slash (which require a new tyre anyway) can be fixed quickly even if it holds only 40 psi max to get you home.

Also from testing stans sealant is hopeless for road tubeless. fine in #MTB tyres but at road pressure it fails. Effetto mariposa or orange seal are the best. I use effetto mariposa only now. it has not failed me yet. It also seems that some selants work better with some tyres than others. i have noticed the effetto sealant can sela bigger holes in the IRC tyres than it can in the schwalbes. I have no idea why.

The only issue with tubeless is the learning curve you have to go through. I have put a guide of the shop website and I know it works.

I dont bother with a tube any more. My kit is a 2oz bottle of stans in case i loose alot of selant, co2 tyre worms and loctite superglue with rubber in it. This superglue is wonderful i have even fixed a side wall puncture on my road tubeless tyre, no bulges and the fix seems permanent. A worm and this superglue will fix almost every hole.

One of the reasons why i dont have maxales is because i dont like the way they opperate. Way too much effort for getting a wheel in and out. As i have not had the op’s problem yet i am not sure on the solution oics may help.

One of the reasons why i dont have maxales is because i dont like the way they opperate. Way too much effort for getting a wheel in and out. As i have not had the op’s problem yet i am not sure on the solution oics may help.

My headset bearing last a very long time. I dont add grease. I use token headsets or cane creek. Buy good bearings and they will last. Buy cheap one and they wont last as long.

Rock n roll super web is the best bearing grease but adding that works well with traditional caged/loose ball headsets

How have you damaged a ryde rim. I have been using the same rim for a while now and they fine.

The dt 481 rim is a good one. So is the velocity blunt ss.

I would go with the dt swiss 350 hubs or shimano xtr.

Eat properly on saturday. Also for the future ride more.

Dt swiss do a single speed 240 hub, white industries do the eno hub for onespeed freewheels and surely do a one speed freewheel hub too.

Personally i would go with a freewheel hub a white industries freewheel and then use a square taper chainset with a royce bb which have adjustable cups so you can fine tune the chainline.

It is actually cheaper for me to buy a 105 mech of wiggle than buy one of madison. I am in the trade so this is rubbish. Also why i am changing my business model as the a shops can longer sell shimano kit at a competative price. If shops are relying on price matching to keep customers that ultimatkey will loose them moneh in the long run as it takes tkme to order the part, time to un pack it time to phone the customer to let them know it is in i.e as loss. It no longer makes sense to keep stock of shimano parts either as you cant turn a profit on them at sale.

It wont be long before bike shops start buying all there shimano goods of wiggle or crc and raise there labour rates to compensate.

Riding at night is my favourite. Nothing beats it. Cars stop for me instead of driving straight at me without slowing down. If I turn sown the light drivers just dont seem to see me or if they do they behave like its daylight again.

I dont use a helmet light and I do some quick road rides. I dont get caught out so I am not sure what I am doing different. I use one light on the bars (cateye volt300 and a one light rear. I dont like flashing lights on the front as they annoy me (I dread to think what a bright flashing light would do to a driver).

I also commute all year round.

They cost a tenner because they are £5 and bit trade. Take out VAT, postage and there is not a whole lot left for the retailer. They are tenner because the manufacturer has to make something, the distributor has to make something and then the shop has too. If you want the cheaper set up a bike shop and buy them trade.

I am still jot clear why most trail bikes are 650B. I suppose many trail bikes will use wide tyres and thus give a similar rolling diamter to a 29er with narrower tyres.

Test rides. As for being happy with 26″ wheel size I was until I tried a 29er. I was alway happy on kit until I tried something better. The open question is which wheel size you prefer and that depends on the tyres the bike is shod with and the terrain you ride. For xc use a 29er wins. For trail use the 650B+ thing has a logic to it.

lower torsional stiffness for 2x 32H builds. This means tension changes when braking will be higher which means spoke life will be reduced a bit. How much no one can say.

just a moment are you using rim brakes if so there is little choice. Mavic 717’s are the best about.

Ryde Trace series are very good. DT Swiss have some excellent offerings. The XC tyres you use work very well on wider rims. give them a go you wont be disappointed

Shimano freeza rotors should disaster heat more quickly but if heat build up is not an issue then that is moot.

Baby built wheel with low or uneven tension. Initially it may have been down insufficient stress relieving but now tension is low and uneven.

You need to take it to someone who knows wheels so it can be brought back up to tension (1200N) DS rear and tension made even on each side to with +/-5% of the mean. The indregients for a reliable wheel are very simple the wheel builder just has to follow the recipe.

I found have the cash buy shimano xtr other wise SLX will do nicely. I would rather have the new xtr m9000 (and I do) over a set of Hope stoppers.

I am a dealer. I have had mine on order since Feb. I am still waiting. I starting to annoy me actually. It’s like Schwable have forgot to supply the u.k.

I want them for mud riding. I am hoping the very low pressures will actually provide some grip.

I think it’s been on twice before. Good programme. I the future is quite bright.

Relaible hubs and light too but overpriced when you consider the tools needed to take them apart for a full service ( which they will need at some point).

Royce hubs are equally relaible have a ti freehub unike the Chris kings (the r45 campagnolo freehub has very slender splines leset of too slender for my eyes) and only 100g or so heavier. They come apart without toolsas well. For the cheap reliable set of rim brake hubs try miche primato or miche Syntium for disc brake. White industries make very reliable hubs that are simple to maintain for rim brake and disc brake.

DT Swiss 240 disc brake hubs are the best in my opinion and don’t cost as much as Chris kings.

It changes gears smoothly and reliably what more needs to be said.

Velocity blunt 35 is less than 100 pounds. Ryde do some rims that have a 25mm internal width too.

Well done.

Simple yes. Road riding is just as much fun as a proper session on an mtb it better sometimes.

While the open pro works fine as a rim wider rims work better. They are stiffer for one improving spoke life on a well built wheel. 23mm tyres do fit fine on a stan’s grail or rim of similar width. They will come wide at 25mm or wider. They also gain some height.

I have 23mm vittoria open corsa’s on my 25mm wide rims. Measured with a vernier they are 25mm wide and taller. I have tried the same tyres on narrower rims and that what I have found. In fact also every tyre comes up wider on a wider rim. This is useful as it increases the air volume improve comfort and reducing buzz. Rolling resistance is meant to be lower but I can’t tell that as the difference is small in theory. Handling in the bends is definitely improved too due to the change in the tyre profile ( tyre is far more rounded and they don’t square of in the same way). Also on rough and broken road surface I loose less speed when jarred of that surface is on a bend I stay to my intended line better.

The ds Swiss rr440 rim is now available as a disc brake only rim. It really is a winner. I am trying to get kinlin xr22t offset rims in the country for disc brake use (nmsw). The pacenti sl25 is excellent and the velocity aileron is pricey but it is light and deep.

The hed belgium+ nmsw rim is very pricey but perfect.

Next year Ryde are bringing out the pulse comp disc. This is one in am waiting for. 21mm internal width 27mm external, light at 370g and has offset drilling. It may not for very heavy riders or loads but nothing else on the market comes close.

Kappius in the u.s supply disc only carbon rims.

A 28 spoke disc brake wheel with the open pro rim would be a flexible affair. Even front disc brake hubs are dished reducing bracing angles. Stiff rims are needed for disc brake builds. If some one asked me to do a 28 spoke disc brake build with the open pro I would refuse. I have done this before with customers who are insistent in what they want. There are some things that are simply not worth doing.

Built many wheels with the open pro and they are out. Keep but getting the wheel stable take alot of time. Building with a modern wide rim mean the stress reliving gets the wheel stable much quicker and I can be sure the wheel stays that way.

I ride on tubs clincher and tubeless overall tubs give less punctures. I even use rubs on my mountain bike and don’t get punctures.

I a have 14 bikes. I have today decided there will be a number 15. I hope diverse is not the result but either way number 15 is being bought cervelo s5 or look 785 aerolight. I may have to sell a couple of old mtb’s just to help fund it but I am loath to do that even though I don’t ride them much simpler because they are so nice to ride.

Kenesis ff29 is pretty fabulous. It will leave you with a lot of change as well. You get custom steel to your own spec.

The richer p29 is a pretty good frame as well. For carbon I would just buy a Chinese frame.

I remind this college that cyclists are human beings and hatred of other people for a lifestyle choice is akin to racism and deeply frowned upon in the workplace. Behaviour of an employee on the way to work and home again is often taken by employers quite seriously. That’s a polite reminder from him to respect you on the road.