Slight thread ressurection, does anyone know what bearings are needed to replace the rear spin doctor 6D ones? Mine are graunchy.

Also I’m gonna try and go with my Met Parachute, I’m with Dan Atherton on this one FF should be compulsory

He does seem to spend most of his time crashing/injured so maybe it’s not a bad plan for him.

Very excited, golfie was running sweet (weirdly dry) at the weekend and although I have hunches i’m interested to see what the stages actually are.

Anyone?

I did put on the feedback for the latest round (Ae) that it’s difficult to see where the £50 goes. It was £45 last year and there was better feed stations etc. Although it did move to sportident so presumably they take some money.

Comparing it to Vallelujah earlier in the year you got a free t-shirt and a bakery at the top. At Ae there were around ten gels left on a table that disappeared in about 5 minutes and it was more expensive. It’s not going to stop me entering them but how much does it cost to have a table with some bananas and cake on it? At least it’d look like you were getting a bit more for your money.

Bearback – what’s the weather usually like end of August/Start September?

Yeah but it’s just factory neutral for the spicy, no base tune has been developed.

I know that TF supply you with one if you buy the shock through them but I went via my LBS.

anybody?

They’ve denied the rumours on Instagram. We shall see.

Going off topic now, but what is treks ABP system? linkage driven single pivot or horst link or both/

Neither, it’s basically a split pivot but with a floating shock.

Rode the dude’s stages at the weekend and if anything they are more rocky than they were before. Must’ve been a wet winter as large trenches with huge rocks everywhere down the trails. Still all rideable and good fun but harder than they were in november for the race for sure.

We were there last week and also got chased by the doberman, it didn’t bite either of us and seemed pretty happy to see us off but the next time we came up the climb the owner had locked it in his car.

Trails were running well with a good amount of snow at the top of the climb. The new cafe/centre opened the day after we were there as we had a chat with a guy in the car park about it. Bit of wind blow on the trails on the other side but nothing too bad.

On the spectral you also get better kit. You pay a little more but it’s not much as you say especially when you consider the dropper is included.

The Shock and Fork are the performance not evolution. This means you get much better damping as the fork is FIT. I’m not sure on the specific differences of the rear shock, but I imagine you get better damping also in this as the Evolution model is pretty basic.
You get the dropper as you mentioned.
You get SLX brakes instead of Deore.
You get a shadow + rear mech instead of a normal shadow. Clutch mechs are really good. Unless your chris porter.
You get DT wheels.
You get a slightly better mix of drivetrain (SLX front mech, Ok it’s not much).

I think the best bike of those two for all round use is definitely the spectral. My mate has that exact bike and uses it for what you describe. Always thought it looked really nice to boot.

I just can not decide if the extra travel and slightly more aggressive geometry will be a negative over longer distances.

No. No it won’t. *

*in my opinion.

Yeah, for the love of god enter it so we can all marvel at your superhuman speed.

Uber squealed like nothing else i’ve heard on this earth. Actually thought I was going to go deaf. Emailed them to ask if i’d done something wrong and reply wasn’t overly helpful.

Chucked them in the bin and bought Superstar sintered and never looked back. Not a fan of SS stuff usually but can’t fault the pads.

As far as I know, you will need a new BB. I believe the other end of the SRAM cranks tapers down to 22mm.

You require a GXP bottom bracket, of the press fit variety. Just google ‘GXP press fit BB’

http://instagram.com/gregor_t

Mostly bikes and scenery.

In fairness to them, they’re a year and a half old and have been ridden through every condition imaginable – mud, snow, bogs, a few river crossings and regular hosing (though not powerwashing really). I’m not too fussed that they’re starting to go, just need to know where I can get some new ones!

I find the new one at the golfy with the rocks and drop pretty tough going.

What is this you speak of?

Jawbone or Aussie rules are really hard to ride fast I reckon. I don’t know if that makes them the hardest though.

EDIT: The traverse fireroad type thing at the top of Pro-Spacker last weekend after the enduro the weekend before was also incredibly hard. Like riding through a swamp.

Sounds a belter! Gutted I’m not there.

Stage 4 sounds especially good!

What were the stages?

Missing the first (local!) one which is a shame, do post up the stages on saturday so I can see what i’ve missed.

Enjoy!

Did you put two layers of tape on? And is it stretched properly tight?

It sounds like that might be your issue, maybe get another person to help you stretch it tight.

Best thing to do is to search eBay for comparable prices I reckon:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=filinf+cabinets&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfiling+cabinets.TRS0&_nkw=filing+cabinets&ghostText=&_sacat=0

Interested in how these perform. Really like the look of them.

I got halfway up it once and threw up.

But I was suffering from concussion as it later turned out, so that probably had something to do with it.

I would definitely get a tube in there and pump it up good and hard. Leave it over night and try again tomorrow.

What tyres/rims?

If that fails, then I could give you a hand probably, mail in profile.

Try pushing the mech forward with your hands, if you can move it with a good bit of resistance its not the clutch.

Though I suspect it isn’t as you say turning it off doesn’t really help.

Indexing may not be quite right.

This is a good natural XC route from inners

https://www.strava.com/activities/134040428

You can do what you like once you climb back up to the inners red route from the road, I did a mix of trails but you can just do the rest of the red route for ease of not getting lost if your not familiar with the area.

Basically you climb up the innerliethen red climb, pop off the back onto the SU way for a bit then do a loop, climb back up to much moor again and then rejoin the red and finish it.

Coffee and a scone, clotted cream and jam neccessary.

Cheers for the reply, that’s a ‘High Direct mount’ or D type.

http://www.modernbike.com/front-derailleur-standards-and-mounts

I’m looking for an S3/E2 mount. Two holes.

What tape?

I’ve had good results with a nice clean frame (IPA), a hairdryer, credit card and a good amount of patience. Done two frames now.

Clean the area, cut a good shaped bit of the tape (don’t be over ambitious), apply the tape from one end streching as you go, then heat it up with the hairdryer and work the edges to get rid of any bubbles.

This was with the JRA tape.

I torqued the lock on collars to 6Nm and the brake levers/shifters to 4Nm on the basis that i’d want them to move if when I hit a tree or such.

Yes, did it over xmas. It’s SRAM 3WT oil you use and you’ll need a charger damper bleed tip adapter. SRAM will try and sell you this for £20. I bought the kit from EpicBleedSolutions, which includes a bottle of the oil and the bleed adapter/syringes and instructions for the same £20. The instructions are just for bleeding the damper, but if you want to take the whole thing apart and change the oil (I did) then one bottle will just about be enough if you’re careful not to spill any. The official service manual is very helpful. You will also need very tiny circlip pliers if your going to take the whole thing apart.

That said, just bleeding it will probably cure any issues.

As per usual, you’ll need to replace O-rings and stuff but my forks came with a full service/seal kit with all included o-rings/washers so maybe yours did too.

It wasn’t too difficult, but as with all £600 forks, patience and copious amounts of tea are a help.

Not entirely sure what you mean, but I think you need two allen keys, one on each side and then unscrew using the second to hold the ‘nut’ as it were.

If you don’t like them (I don’t either), don’t enter the races(I won’t be). The series will not do well and end. Someone else can start a national series and you can all be happy again.

Do the SES/Tweedlove Series/Other English enduros i’m not aware of/Probably some welsh ones too instead, I can vouch for 2/4 as being top quality.

As for his ‘Enduro British Champs’ we have an EWS round here. If you win that, then i’ll call you ‘Enduro Champion’ for the rest of the year.

I liked them, seemed sturdy and fairly light. Issue I had was I cased a jump onto rock and dented the rear rim – tried to get a new rim through LBS and was basically told (by silverfish) there were none in the country to sell me. I was a little annoyed as I don’t see why you would bring out a wheel without spares available but that may be sorted now as this was when they first came out.

Can’t comment on hub durability as only ran it for 6 months, front one is still on and going strong though.

EDIT – also conflicting opinions about tubeless readiness depending who you ask, but mine went up fine with yellow tape and valves with no issues.

Got a reverb for sale for £100 ready to ride…

Superstar seem to be decent for cheap wheels that can take some abuse and have a clearance section. Wheelsets to be had for sub £200.

Just got some RF SIXC ones for xmas, shape and rise is spot on. Come in at 785mm so wide as you like really – i’ll probably trim mine down to 760ish for tree avoidance purposes.

They look like nicely made bars and seem comfortable so far.

Ordered a couple and haven’t had mine cancelled, so fingers crossed…