I would maybe start with TFTuned, who I’ve used a lot

Here is there range, there are a lot of options:

https://www.tftuned.com/search/mount+hardware?search=mount%20hardware

Tredz – you should be able to get a code to get a £5 discount as well. I bought one 2 weeks ago but really wanted EXO – but there’s zero chance of getting EXO in the UK. So MaxxGrip DD it was

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Maxxis-Assegai-Folding-3C-Tubeless-Ready-29-MTB-Tyre_210152.htm?sku=642145&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping

Agree with @onehunderdthidiot. Leaving your brakes on overnight increases the pressure in the system and dissolves air into the fluid. Your brakes feel great. You go for a ride or two and all that fluid mixes with the fluid in the reservoir and all the gas comes out of fluid and you get a bunch of microbubbles that give you a slightly spongier lever.

De-gassing the fluid is key before bleeding and I’m surprised it isn’t covered more in official bleeding guides. Some do mention it. I also think this is more important for DOT 5.1 fluid than mineral oil.

I’ve just bled my SRAM Guides with a brand new bottle of Mobil DOT5.1 and the amount of air that I got out in the syringe by vacuuming it slightly was insane.

I installed a Tado system the other month and I think I encountered the same issue.

Is your Hive thermostat wired? If so when it reaches the demanded temperature the relay switch is going to open, breaking the circuit and will never allow your trvs to demand heat.

The solution is to decommission your wired thermostat by closing the circuit permanently by joining the wires that are controlled by the relay together and then let your thermostat and trvs demand heat wirelessly.

Yes, Legbacon!

Greetings from Edinburgh. Love your part of the world. Hope the trails are holding up well 🙂

Just back from a week in Cumberland – 10 minutes from Courtenay.

This is the guy to use, Martin.

http://www.islandmountainrides.com

Awesome guide. Phenomenal trails. Great day rate. Couldn’t recommend highly enough.

Check trailforks to see the trail network in Cumberland. It’s 5 minutes ride to it from the high street, which includes awesome tacos, pizza, beer and a bike shop.

Have fun!

Mmm. Can be an issue and a faff.

This is how I personally deal with it – MTB and road…

Never use a chain cleaning tool (as directly recommended by KMC). Oil rollers on the chain regularly with Finishline Red. Wipe outside of chain with a babywipe after almost every ride to remove debris from the outside. On a semi-regular basis clean any excess build up off chainring teeth and jockey wheels.

I get more life than ever out of this method as I never fully clean all the grease/ oil/ wax build up out of the chain by using a chain cleaner and heavy solvent. Total time for chain maintenance is 90 seconds. But I use a light lube sparingly and keep on top of things regularly to make it easy. Once in a blue moon I crack out the wet lube for long, wet days and it does take a bit more cleaning.

90% sure yes you can as I have read that pre-2018 pikes can be retrofitted with the new charger 2 damper. Therefore the layout and dimensions must be similar enough to make it a goer.

Frogstomp backs that up with the link in the manual so I say go for it!

I’ve been considering the same bikes!

My wife has a large Jeffsy that I have ridden – it’s great but short for a large bike. Also if it were mine I’d want to up the fork to 150mm and probably add offset bushings to drop the BB and slacken the head angle to get it super stable. That’s quite a lot of changes straight out of the box.

Primer 29 – Heard about/ seen too many issues with Intense frames for me to buy one direct sales these days. It’s a real shame because there has never been a cheaper time to get a previously unobtainable bike.

Whyte… well. All I can say is that I am test riding one at the weekend (hopefully without quite as much snow). I already have a pre-emptive deposit on the s150 C RS. I can’t wait!!! Not really many things I can pick up on to worry about. Properly robust and UK weather proof. The geometry looks on paper like what I want. I really really hope I like it as much as I think I will.

I’ve used a pair for 3 years. So they do work but they aren’t the best wheels I’ve used by a margin.

The internals of the rear hub failed after about 3 months. I got a free rebuild kit from Silverfish and rebuilt it and greased it up well. I’ve been through 3 sets of bearings on the rear and 2 sets on the front. The bearings have lasted an average but not outstanding amount of time.

After the first year the spokes started snapping (they are very narrow gauge sapim jobs). I respoked them and they have been fine since.

In their favor, they are quite light and stiff but you definitely need to do stuff to keep them going.

So if you get the OEM (like me) then I wouldn’t panic but I wouldn’t actively attempt to go and buy a pair – especially since the price used to be very high.

I’d go for a Stans S1 arch of flow wheelset for vfm or a custom hope build.

SDG circuit is a good shout, but my word be prepared to need to toughen your backside up. It’s a bit razor sharp.

Why not just wait for your stealth reverb to inevitably develop 10mm of sag?

Sorry. Last comment wasn’t that useful 😛

As above.

I actually wear my 661 Rage knee pads in the winter for almost all rides because the trailskins are so well ventilated they are a bit chilly. They are perfect when it gets warmer again and you want to ride for a full day but still have protection.

One thing that I would say is try multiple sizes for fit. I ordered medium and large and the large arrived first. I thought I was going to keep them because the Velcro closure was quite tight and thought the mediums wouldn’t close at all. Then I tried the mediums and the knee pad bit was slimmer and the fit around my knee a lot better and the Velcro closure was identical in its range to fit my legs. The pads stay in place a lot better than my 661s just because they are so well fitted to my knee.

A bit lighter but also result in a wheel that is probably slightly less laterally stiff.

Depends what you want the wheels for really. XC race? You might want Revs with alloy nipples. If they are your only set of wheels Comps are probably good.

I bought a box of Super Comps to re-lace my snappy E13 TRS+ wheels recently. They were only £10 more expensive than standard Comps and a bit lighter. Good compromise without going to Revs. Haven’t re-laced my wheels yet. Will do when the next spoke snaps.

One of the big differences about the new longer bikes, compared to those of 5-6 years ago is head angle. Older ‘slack’ bikes used to have head angles of 67 degrees

There was a reason for shorter reach back in the day. You were trying to not allow your CoG move infront of the front axle. The technique was to hang quite far off the back of the bike at the cost of a bit of front wheel grip. The short reach was more appropriate to riding in the hang-off the back style. If that’s how you still ride then you probably want to have a short reach frame. Nothing wrong with it at all, you can still go fast and have lots of fun.

Now we’re looking at Capras with 64.5 degree head angles and other bikes are the same. Anything above 66 degrees is considered steep! With that sort of front end, you just don’t need to hang off the back as much. At that point if you center yourself in the frame for better weight distribution, a medium bike with 420mm reach feels short. I would like my medium Capra to go from 420mm -> 440mm so that I can just sit in the middle of the bike a lot more.

There’s no need to worry about going over the bars these days on Enduro bikes. The front wheel is miles out in front of you. I can count the number of times I’ve done it in 2 1/2 years of having a Capra on one hand.

That’s why people want more reach these days. (Obviously IMHO)

Having ridden a Jeffsy a bit with 140mm Pikes (ie stock), given the choice of any fork length, I would put 150mm forks on it.

It’s going to be a bit of a pig to turn in low speed corners with a 160mm fork for not much benefit. I’m not really sure why you want it with that much travel and that slack a head angle. The stack height is going to be getting pretty high and the reach reduced a bit.

That said, if you do end up putting the ubiquitous Pike on it, in any travel, a travel change is possible for the price of a £25 air spring shaft. You’re never really going to be that screwed.

Is there a seal of any type that covers the bearings? On Hope headsets, they supply thin shims like that to space the top race dust cover. It allows setup of the headset so the rubber seal of the dust cover is just sealing but doesn’t drag too much. It’s a case of adding shims one by one to get the perfect fit. Could it be the same for a bearing cover on the bb?

You won’t be disappointed. I bought my wife the alloy version of the Jeffsy before Christmas for silly money in the sale. It’s every bit as much fun as my Capra that I’ve enjoyed for 2 1/2 years, just different strengths and weaknesses. I think she is going to get annoyed when I borrow her bike my than I use mine this year… Woops

Oh right…

Guess it’s just the Capra that has an alloy shell because of the ISCG tabs.

I would personally fit using a Teflon grease but there is conflicting advise online. Nothing wrong with fitting it dry either. It’s unlikely to creak like a metal to metal fit does.

The inside of the BB shell is alloy. I installed a praxis BB with their expanding collet system using copperslip/ anti seize 18 months ago. That’s as per recommended. No issues so far.

I have the flash charger as my only track pump and it is first world problem level annoying for pumping up road tires. Not so bad pushing an MTB one up to only 25psi. It is teh awesum for tubeless inflation though.

I think the topeak Joe blow booster tubeless will allow you to bypass the reservoir and function as a normal pump. It wasn’t available when I got the bontrager one. It also has a hilariously ridiculous name. So maybe have a go with that one?

On a slight aside. Having looking into replacements for the same reasons I was interested to see that Sapim are currently claiming they consider their alloy nipples are more corrosion resistant than brass ones. I do have one set of all weather wheels that I changed the nipples on with Sapim ones that do seem to be fairing better than I had expected.

Northwind’s suggestion for Innerleithen is pretty much perfection.

I hold my finger across the gap at the top of the headset, between the cup and the cover. Then I rock the front wheel. You can easily feel any movement on your finger this way.

Just to clear up the Enduro confusion.

andysredmini is correct 150 stealth is the epitome of enduro. The new one is Enduro+ specific. You need 650b+ wheels to use it

1 equation. 2 unknowns.

Can’t be solved without additional information.

Which rider was it that came up short and went over the bars on that massive speed double?

That was brutal. I assume they are OK?

Magic Mary on hardpack for any length of time equals not very many functioning side knobs. They all tear through.

Now that I know that I only ride my remaining Magic Mary on softer trails and it is holding up better but not perfectly.

I’m very keen to try the Vigilante now that I know of them!

For the E13 TRS+ users,

I wore the bearings out in my rear hub. I contacted Silverfish directly and got a full new, redesigned rear hub fitting kit.

2 uprated bearings, new bearing spacer, pawls and springs. FOC within 24 hours of contact. Boosh, you can’t do better than that.

I had heard the stories of bad sealing and pawl failure so when I first got them I stripped and liberally greased them. I’ve had zero problems until the bearings wore out.

I would admit that the sealing is very poor at the freehub. I probably wouldn’t buy a pair of them by choice, especially considering the RRP but they are perfectly OK to use until they die. I’ve had to live with much worse mountain biking products before.

I also appreciate that I am only one guy and everyone’s experiences, use and conditions vary.

I know a lot of people who have trashed the Mavics. They also seem to have a problem with the spokes seizing solid, making truing very difficult indeed.

Interested in hearing experiences.

Currently looking for an alternative to Magic Mary’s. Which is a shame but I just can’t stand such bad knob tear 🙁

So far my short list is just the Maxxis Shorty. I was looking at the Vigilante recently too.

My 66 degree HA mince tank has less front wheel lift climbing than my old 69 degree HA hardtail. It does have a 75 degree seat tube angle, however.

I definitely needs me to lean harder on the bars and use more body weight to turn round tight corners but this isn’t a problem, just a change in technique. It really helps when the tables are turned for straight line stability at high speed where a short wheelbase, steep head angled bike really is more of a problem.

Praxis option FTW IMO

Totally unacceptable that software is being released in that state in this day and age. There are many software engineering tools and processes that prevent basic functionality being broken between software releases.

It’s a £400 watch they have a duty to provide premium software along with one of their premium products.

Yup. That bug was introduced in SW 3.6. Somewhat annoying and hard to believe they missed that in testing. Oh no wait, why did I assume they do any testing? They clearly don’t.

Nice hardware and overall a good product let down by poor software quality.

iolo – Member
In wales we have this box. You enter in numbers in an specific order (unique to each person/company) and their box makes a noise/vibrate. You can then use actual speech to actually talk to someone who might be able to help.

Wow I had no idea things in Wales were that backwards! I’ve been using a phone for years to do the same thing. 😀

On my Kinesis CX disc wheelset, when I have a mudguard fitted so you have something to visually line up against, you can see the front rim deflect 2-3mm to the left under heavy breaking.

At first I thought this was the hub in the fork or something in the fork leg flexing. It’s not though.

It’s the disc slowing the hub and adding extra tension to the braking side spokes. This has the effect of ‘dishing’ the wheel over the extra distance. It used to disconcert me. Now after 1000’s of miles I’m not that bothered.

I think 28 spokes is a sensible number for a front disc wheel if you are even close to heavy (>70kg). The lateral stiffness on a 24 spoke wheel would be worse. I would be tempted to go for straight gauge spokes to improve lateral stiffness if I went for a 24 spoke disc front.

Paid it. On day 9 after 3 weeks (I get about 3 nights practice a week)

Significant progress and totally worth it IMO.

They way the learning is structured makes you focus on the individual component skills that make up a wheelie. The net result is I am now far more consistent than I was. I am building up the components in the correct order so I am making progress more rapidly than any of my previous attempts to learn.

I would also look into the Spank Oozy Vibrocore bars that are coming out.

They claim to be specifically designed to reduce bar vibration. I have not used them myself so I can’t tell you if that is all marketing hype!

Edit: Here’s a link to the Spank Spike Vibrocore review on Pinkbike: Spank here

Quality. That all sounds good. Apart from you, thecaptain, you dirty bugger 😛

I will check out the Tesco sports and workwear stuff. I have used the lifeventure stuff before but it was pricey as I recall.

Glad to hear a wash and dry immediately might be all I need.

BTW the Dettol product I mentioned is this[/url]. Pretty good IME from home washing. My cycling kit gets much less stinky.

The choice between 2x and 3x is really down to the number of spokes in the wheel. You need the spokes not to run at too much of an angle over the hub flange.

My rule of thumb is >28 hole 3-cross. 28 or less 2-cross.

I’m sure there is a bit of an increase in lateral wheel stiffness with 3-cross as well but you wouldn’t want 3-cross pattern on a 24 spoke wheel, for instance.

Not that I’ve found. A good bit lighter than a Magic Aksium Disc for about £80 more.

I like mine enough to be buying another pair for the wife next month.