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Viewing 40 posts - 281 through 320 (of 1,499 total)
  • New Second Generation Geometron G1: Even More Adjustable
  • bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Yup. Mine is a “66 fit” branded one, which was pretty cheap. I’d avoid them. I’ve used others that are much firmer.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    “massage”

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Before I bought a foam roller, I used a catering sized roll of clingfilm. The foam roller has never given me the same satisfying, eye watering feeling of “It hurts like hell, so it must be good” as the clingfilm roll did.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    That belonged to my mother’s father
    That belonged to my father’s father

    One and the same?? 8O

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Are they the 24 spoke ones? I have a 24 spoke front hope hoop that would feel decidedly flexy if I landed it off something, and generally a bit noodly.. I think they’ve got a weight limit, which I’m nowhere near, but I tried it on a couple of bikes with different forks and got the same feeling.
    I bent the rim and replaced it with an old Bontrager Race Lite rim which is about 100g heavier.. And now it’s a world of difference! The bike tracks better, and doesn’t want to go sideways on landings.

    If you’ve got a frame as stiff as a Blur LTC then any lightweight wheel will tend to feel flexy. It’s got to take the strain somewhere!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    The 780 double mech will be meant for the wider chainline and bigger chainrings than the SLX one.. So it’s not so different from the 3x mech as the SLX.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Are you going from 22/36 to26/38 or 28/40? afaik, the chainline IS different and the front mech probably won’t work then. The SLX double mech is meant for chainrings in the inner/middle position and on the xt doubles the chainline is further out. The cage profile won’t be correct for the rings anyway, although shouldn’t be too far off.

    I could quite possibly be wrong here!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    It shouldn’t be a problem. You need to use the first 2 positions on the shifter (granny and middle) and might need to leave the cable a bit slack on the small chainring.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    You’ll be fine. It can be worth replacing the nipples though.. Old DT ones can get creaky and brittle. Sapim ones can build nicer.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Couple of laps of Cwmcarn Twrch trail on the singlespeed did it for me.. Sneaking up stealth stylie on people with gears, followed by a cheery “hello!” :D

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    I’m going to put a MudX on the back of mine.

    Noooooo!!! Thunk, sssssssssss…

    Sidewalls made from butterfly wings!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    I find LUST crossmarks to be pretty tough.. Rear tyre of choice when it’s not sloppy mud. It’s fine to stitch/patch them up anyway.

    I always carry an opened up old toothpaste tube. It’s worth cutting the corners round.. they can be sharp enough to poke a hole in the tube.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    618 ceramics? Check your bling!

    One day my 2000 Kula will become a desirable thing… Untill then I’ll keep razzing it around with no gears on…

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    I’m sorry. I totally killed it, didn’t I? :|

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    As am I ferrit32.. But they all want to convince themselves that it isn’t a Klein, so let them have their fun!

    EDIT: That Pulse looks nice when polished! I liked mine, but the Attitude that I got to replace it was definitely more springy in the rear end.. The Pulse was rather dead feeling in comparison. Both went up hills like stink though!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    about 2.6mm is standard. It won’t make a huge amount of difference to the final lengths.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    It once looked something like this:

    I had a Pulse.. Boo when it got nicked, but yay when the insurance replacement bought me an Attitude!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    That’s a Klein Pulse.. 1998ish.
    Deffo not an Attitude!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    been under load with me and panniers.

    Seen it on big full-suss Konas with big brakes and bolt on drop outs.. The flex of one side against the other works them loose. Threadlock should deffo help!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    And.. Bosh! You’ve been Googlestalked!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    First thing I thought of was this:
    http://audioboo.fm/boos/472506-chris-morris-blue-jam-the-gush
    I am deeply sorry for linking this.. Dont listen to it at work now, will you?

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Go and ask your LBS for the topcap tool. They are bound to have a couple lying around. They used to include them with the instruction sets for the bikes, but most shops would rarely give them out. Now the don’t even bother with that.

    Those Marz Dirt Jam forks were made by… Suntour! At least they don’t have the same shitty bushings and seals. It’s the same topcap tool though. I think I should have one you could borrow, provided you post it back before you leave the country!

    email me if you need it.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Servicable?? Many have tried…

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    I’d run it longer, but I’ve been shouted down on here by folks who are convinced that as tight as physically possible is the only correct way.. What would I know?

    The gear change is better if it’s not over tensioned, but will bounce and clatter a little more.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    I think they’ve recently tended towards the philosophy of making too few and selling all of them is better than making too many, selling them off cheap at the year end and diluting next years sales.

    Even so, there must be some more bikes out there from last year in an XL, that the shop will bite your hand off to get rid of..

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    TooTall – Member
    Webbs of Warmley for road-related stuff and banter.

    Ahh! Say hello next time you’re in.. I’m the new mechanic! Won’t be there full time till the end of april though.. Here’s a gratuitous page ranking link: http://www.webbsofwarmley.co.uk/%5B/url%5D

    Talk about a handy thread when you need it… I’m just thinking about where to look at in Brizzle.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Yup. Ahh, puss puss!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Sometimes helps to hang the wheel up, so there’s no weight distorting the tyre. I’ve never tried the tube first then remove one side trick, but I find it’s worth leaving them inflated hard with a tube in for a few hours.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Only 54, but I try not to get involved in the political bickering!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Copper grease will turn into a nice grinding paste. Something thinish like finish line (hey, that almost rhymes!) will be good. Wipe a glob around the ratchet and behind the seal. Put the pawls and springs in place with some and then press them down to squeeze out any excess.
    Old XC hubs used to have problems with too much grease, but Pro2s have stronger springs.. Hence the annoying noise!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Crikey has it right.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Some Park tools are pants, but then so are some Pedros bits too.. Park triple allen keys are handy, wheras I’ve snapped the Pedros ones.
    Cyclo and Cyclus are also a good bet for bike specific stuff. Knippex make the best cable cutters by far though, so you’re on to a winner there!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    I filled mine on Monday.. To the brim :-)

    This may be paranoid thinking, but to my mind the petrol stations here have started doing what they used to do in Australia.. Fuel prices creep up by a few pence in the week, hit a high at the weekend when everybody is filling up for trips away, and then drop again on Monday. No doubt there’ll be some similar price manipulation going on currently..

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    SSUK was pure unadulterated slippery grown-up fun. I spent the whole race overtaking people on Singulars :lol: It would be quite a roller-coaster in the dry. Shame there’s no riding normally allowed there.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    I always figure that it’s easier to accidentally find yourself in big-big than small-small, so having a slightly longer chain will prevent an expensive disaster if you’re in that gear and hit a big compression. If the chain overtightens then you could easily bend the chainring and cassette, and probably the mech too.. It’ll go slack on small-small but so what? It’ll change gears no differently otherwise.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Scott dont make it that clear but lots of people end up shearing the top shock bolt which is obviously made by the same people that make the yamaha playdough bolts.

    They are indeed rather crappy. Had a not very happy customer in the past as I told him it was bent, and he should get a replacement from a Scott dealer.. It snapped a week later, expensively!

    As for the OP problem, is that a medium cage rear mech? Chain is too short anyway.

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    Wot Clubber said! ^^^^

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    M:part spokey pro is even betterer than the standard ones – esp if you’ve got siezed nipples to deal with. I’m not a fan of the Park ones as they’re uncomfortable, and don’t stay locked in place when you’re hurrying round the wheel to put tension on it.

    EDIT: you might find them cheaper under the Rixen Kaul brand. They’re the same!

    bikewhisperer
    Free Member

    I’m glad we’re all agreed that z-maxes were shite. I’ll add to that the Maxxis Rendez.. Moderately fast rolling, but went round corners about as well as a curling stone.

    Worst tyre for me today is my godforsaken Bontrager mud-x’s. They’re nice, grippy, pregressive, light weight tyres, but they seem to have sidewalls made from moth wings!

Viewing 40 posts - 281 through 320 (of 1,499 total)