Only premiers can tag now.. Stupid two tier society.

It’s still got mary bars and a wonkey ring, so not that plebian!

SSUK moved to Lee Quarry? Ace. I might go now. Especially if loads of the moaning cocks in the rest of the thread aren’t now going.

I’m with this. I’ve seen a lot of moaning for nothing on here and FB, but it should suit me. My bike even might be quite suitable for it.. 26″ wheels, suspension forks… It even looks like a normal bike, not an attention-seeking nichemobile. :wink:

I’m really looking forward to this now since the venue change. A technical SSUK with some proper climbs and real descents sounds fun. Besides, is it really about where it is? If the riding isn’t what suits the most vocal people here, then it doesn’t mean it won’t be fun. Different people will do well in it, and it’s still singlespeeding.

I’m sure psychic STWers will be along in a bit to inform us of what seatpost you are using.

Time atacs and the other times are awesome.

The only people who use spds is people who have not tried times.

Back on SPDs for me.. I didn’t like that there was too much lateral rock with Times.. Z-controls work well though if you have a shoe with the right sole height to counteract it.

Steephills.. I’d try a new pair of cleats first, and check each spring hasn’t been damaged by levering the back plate back with a screwdriver.. You’ll feel if there’s a weak one.

Drive the wrong side so you can only go backwards

Niche is closed now.. There’s nothing more to see.

In contrast.. My not chain snappings:

Anything I’ve ever put on the singlespeed. Second-hand, cheap, half links, whatever… I do chuck them out when they’re well beyond too.

Not a 15 year old racing snake either!

Secondhand BMX in broken shocker!

In other news, try teasing the thread of the broken bolt back around with a stanley blade. You should be able to get enough out to get the pliers on it if it wasn’t threadlocked in.

My chain snappngs:

1. Not joining a shimano chain with a new pin. I was 13. I learned.
2. Bent chainring tooth.
3. SRAM hollow-pin. The snappiest chain in existence.

I now just buy cheap, and buy often. Cassettes are expensive, but cheap chains are always nearly new.

It’s 42nm to re torque

Yup! you’re right!

The park powertorque tool is rubbish.. But it’s the only one available.. the stupid thing is that Campag don’t even make a tool to remove their own cranks!?!?! The park one will scratch a carbon crank 4/5 times too. And then it’ll break.

acjim.. It may creak unless there’s some anti-sieze between the bearings and the cups. If they’re super record cups then it’s bound to creak, as they have a special coating for the ceramic bearings. New cups are relatively cheap though if nothing else works.

edit.. 50Nm :)

Only AC ha a half decent solution beyond Dura Ace’s ti freehub.

Steel freehub bodies are for plebs.. Fact!

The good thing about Shimano’s system though, it that there’s more room inside the freehub body for the main hub bearings to be spaced wide apart.. Only Mavic and DT seem to have made use of this though.

I changed our Saturday lad’s bike over from 8 to 9 speed with just a RH shifer, chain and cassette. It works perfectly, although it was a decent chainset in the first place.. [EDIT] – yours should be OK
Shimano 8spd road cassettes are available up to 26t without changing your rear mech though. Would that be enough?

I can’t believe you’ve all got this far without mentioning Campag wheels.

Campag wheels are awesome.

Now also available with Shimano freehub bodies! Just for reference though, you can’t gouge an aluminium Campag freehub body, because the spline has been engineered deep enough.

Don’t pull hard on it! You might mangle the guts.
I’d make sure that the nut is flush with the end of the rod, and keep going at it with a nylon hammer, or a lump of plastic and what you’re using. Put a little tension on them by sticking your foot between crown and brace with the steerer on the floor. I’m not responsible for your bruised feet though!

Take off the clamp and see how much wiggle the post has in the frame without it. If it’s significant then you might be able to get half a redbull can in there as a shim. It should stop it fretting it’s way downward then.

Old XT hollowtech 2 on the mountain bike. Was previously running even older xt octalink, which was a tiny bit less stiff, but the BBs lasted much longer.
Road/commute/cross bike has bullet proof square taper Campag Veloche on a Miche BB. It’s all about the ISO taper.. JIS is so last century!

Usually I’d suggest an SLX or Deore chainset as a solution. Try a different brand of chain maybe?

What chainrings? Some are worse than others.

£30, but I’m thinking of putting the price up :)

being new to cycling

my Allez

A sad, but oft repeated story.

RD and Takisawa are both right. Wonkey is the future.

They’ll not seal properly until you’ve ridden them a fair bit. Once they’ve stopped foaming I’d top up the sealant a bit too.

Don’t worry.. They’ll still stop you! It’s just worth noting that newer brakes have shallower pads and track width than the older ones.

The hayes rotors have a deeper brake track.. so there’s a bit on the inside that’ll never get wiped clean. So in the dry they’ll be fine, but in the wet they’ll take longer to dry and bite. This is the voice of experience speaking :-)

Penmachno? Saturday? Yep.. I’ll be there! Probably on a custard and scribbly coloured giant trance, with a bunch of beginners, who will be catapulting themselves off the edge of the trails at every conceivable opportunity.

Quarry descent at night…? Will be too busy with the bbq at the bunkhouse I’m afraid.. Very tempting though.

0121 748 8050 if you get nothing from the email

6079smithw, you are so made up.

Horray! Still going…

No, they’re not right as per the usual way round that rotors are made. They’re so overbuilt that nobody is going to die, least of all a kid on an islabike.
Yes, they are fitted correctly, as the way that Hope instruct you to fit them. There’s no markings on the disc however, and you could fit them the other way.
I reckon that it’s down to the squeal you always get from old hope brakes.. some bright spark at the factory tried fitting the rotors backwards to see if it reduced it, and it did so that’s what they instructed.. maybe?

Juan is right. They are fitted correctly. Hope just decided to be different for these ones. Might have been to reduce squeal problems maybe?
Looking at the size of the arms, I really wouldn’t be worried about them failing.. Ashima Air rotors they are not.

Get your thumb behind an old towel and work it round. No need for any of this chemical mashizzle..

Do you think its due to over tightening?

Most probably.. I think the torque on a thompson is something like 4Nm.. Just enough to stop it coming undone with the flex in the clamp, which will be very little. It’s nothing like a single bolt M6 design, where the levering force on the ends of the rail clamps is multiplied onto a single bolt, so the bolt has to be very tight so the clamp doesn’t move.. Hence why it’s an M6 bolt. In the 2 bolt design, the force through the bolts is lower than the ends of the rail clamp, as they’re further out from the leverage fulcrum, so they’re smaller M4 with a much lower torque setting.

I’ve just broken the front bolt of my On-one post for the 2nd time in 12 months.

Torque wrenches are awesome..

I’m impressed with the controltech one I’ve got.. Similar construction as the Thomson I’ve got, but beefier.

Go for the M510 one. There are some Shimano rings that have the inner tab extending more. Pointless irritation ensues when you have to get the dremmel out..

Just sneaked in on a cheeky place in Hotwells.. First day looking, my mate viewed it and done.. Easiest house hunting ever. Except I’ve just given myself a 7 mile ride to work every day.. Looking forward to winter!

I can’t offer any advice I’m afraid, as I’m new to Bristol, but come and drop by for a cup of tea at Webbs of Warmley after the 2nd May. I’ll be running the workshop there.

Bolting the tool into the BB is a must.. If you mash up the splines then it’ll make the job twice as hard. Putting a ring spanner or 2 behind the tool should give the bolt something to press against.

Then go and find someone with a suitably bolted down bench vice, clamp the tool in it and think twice about the direction before you start levering on the frame!

I used to work in the workshop at AW cycles. They’re an honest bunch!

Starts a new thread..
“What vice for Jeremy’s nuts?”

Air can service kit is what you need.. Plenty of instructions on how to do it on you-tube.
I wouldn’t just push it back in, as if any grit has got behind it then it’ll make a mess of the anodizing.

EDIT.. Mind you, it looks like it’s been dribbling gunk anyway.. Might be best to just get it fully serviced.

Looks like a crack though rather than just cosmetic.
They should warranty it for you though