Same as I said to somebody here yesterday.. The diaphragm tends to fall to bits, and clog up the port on the master cylinder, making them pump up.

It’s quite often a problem on those, with bits of the diaphragm falling down into the master cylinder..
You should be able to get a spare diaphragm, but I think they do a cut price upgrade to a newer brake if that doesn’t fix it.

It’s Sunday today. You’re experiencing a natural reaction to the looming Monday morning.

Schwalbe valves work ok, but proper tubeless valves do seal against the tape better first time.
If you’re using tube valves, then a double lock ring can help to keep them in place

ballcock

Yes.

There’s usually something wrong with the lever seals. Get your bike shop to send them back to Fishers under warranty. And then sell them.

Have a carbon mid priced FSA one. Noticeably comfier than either a thomson or a cheap ti one on the same bike.

edit.. mind you, I scored it when it slipped in a new frame, so now have it on the road bike with a shorter rise.. Still comfy though!

Yes they do.. The lever which the cable is attached to is shorter, so the mechanical advantage is higher; the cage moves more for each click of the lever. I’d leave the spacers as they should be and get the proper mech.

Yep, any shimano one will be fine.

You need a road triple front mech.. You’ll find loads of cheap ones for sale. You can’t use a MTB one as the cable pull is different. You might still find that the inner limit is hard to set though if you’re using it on a middle/outer.

I have some SLX, LX and some 2004 Mono Mini. You can get some XT ones for about £130 from Germany. That’s where I’d go. Will be selling the Mini’s soon, and yes 160/160 is fine for normal use.

If it’s snagging then twizzling it round can help. You shouldn’t need to put a kink in it then. Have you got some proper cutters?

Sort of like this one, but betterer

schwalbe hurricane? If you want more grip then put something knobblier on the front

Space the callipers out with 1mm of washers?

2012 has man’s gears and a lower spoke count.. 2013 has a compact

Seriously dudes.. I’m surprised none of you have got what caused it..!

It’s caused by bimetallic corrosion of the inside of the steerer due to intimate contact with the star nut.

The star nut scrapes the anodising away when it’s bashed in, and gets a fair amount of spray up from the wheel in winter, with lots of yummy salt. The steerer has eroded away from the inside. It’s the same with those pace forks. Look at how rusty that crown race seat is.

It’s best to take the top cap off occasionally and squirt some spray grease round there, or better still, never use a star nut in the first place on an aluminium steerer. Hope head doctors rule.

Go now and take your top cap off and have a look… You’ll be appalled at the state inside!

Easy to find!

The XT and above ones have a ceramic bush in the guide pulley. They take a very long time to wear out, provided you don’t get happy with the GT85 every 5 minutes..

Why can’t Shimano develop some bearings for my FSR frame?

Or.. why can’t Specialized weld their frames straight?

You’re all missing out.. It’s really satisfying to re-grease them. Watching the crud and then clean grease splurge out of the axle assembly is good honest messy fun!
My 540s are 10 years old. One of the best bits of kit I’ve got.

That’s nice! I see they also do some proper crank pullers too, and for carbon.. £500 rrp for the lot though… I guess if nobody else is making one that works then that’s what they can get away with.

I’d look at the other end for problems. The pistons might be stuck to the square seals, so they’ll move some but not auto advance. Drop some mineral oil behind them, and hold one back with a ring spanner or tyre lever while letting hte other one move. You should find it pops free… Don’t let it too far out! Keep working them while flushing the gunk off until they move freely and then try bleeding.

And if that don’t work.. They’ve a 2 year warranty.

We made one that takes 2 people to operate.. A true work of bodge!

The Park one is truly abysmal. I’m still baffled as to shy campag haven;t made their own though.

Your freehub is probably more full of rusty water than grease :)

yup.. loop 2 will be a river. Loop 1 will be the same all year round.. a bit wet, but no significant gloop.

I had something similar.. The consultant sent me for an MRI, and I had a formainal stenosis in C4, and a partially prolapsed disc in C3. Would you like an operation, said he? Non, said I.. So off I went and that was that.
I went to a physio, as it was still twinging (I couldn’t turn left for several days when it did, a la Zoolander) and she told me to straighten my self up, and do some exercises to strengthen up the supportive muscles in the back of my neck, and I’ve been cured since.

Lusso max repel.

bombproof! although 3 years down the line, the water repellency isn’t what it used to be

If you want FULL length then SKS longboards

So the Formula importer have sorted out their customer service? My old man still hasn’t got his 09 The Ones back from them yet after what must be getting on for four months. They told him about 2 weeks ago they had been sorted as well.

Sounds about par..

I’ve got some ’04 hope minis that just won’t die, but I prefer the shimano ones on my other bikes.

A good trick for winter with shimano brakes is to gaffer tape over the hole in the top of the rear calliper. It’ll stop as much shite from dropping down behind the pads onto the pistons.

Thread title should read “Admiril Insurance looking less attractive”

I went on a course recently. It was very much aimed at making people safer drivers.. Being more observant, smoother, etc. There were a few argumentative c**ts in the room who obviously weren’t going to take home anything from it, but I think most would have.. I’ve been better since!
What Admiril lose in custom, others will pick up. Not every insurance company will start to penalise it.. That’s 700000 people a year that are potential customers.

Take the cable out of the sleeves. Take the end caps off the sleeves, and then trim the wires back with some decent cutters.
Quite often on long cable runs the wires that stiffen the sleeves work their way our and then bunch up.

Looks quite far out. If the BB has a metal ring which the crank butts up against, which it looks like from the pic, then try levering it off the bb and install the cranks without. We’ve had altus chainsets which would fall straight off without the bolt on the un-26 bbs.

a) mis-aligned, gappy flooring..
b) sticky-outy, wonky mudguard..
c) daft as a brush brake lever placement. When you go round right hand corners, does your back brake come on?

There is no gear lever option if you want road type STIs on a normal set of bullhorns, as you’ve got cable discs that require a v-brake lever..

Since I’ve been using Squirt, and just swishing the chains under hot water after a ride, they’ve been lasting fooking ages.

I don’t get chain cleaners.. they just pre-load the chain with degreaser to wash the fresh lube straight out.

As opposed to a Blur/Nomad.. where it’s not :-)

ACs aren’t known for their bearing life.. Does this make a difference?

Fair play Topps.. I totally retract what I said in my first comment!

It’s weird being on the providing end of the deal though.. What you’re happy charging is not nearly what he might be expecting to pay. Many workshops are very generous, and don’t make nearly enough profit, which is probably why many of the best LBS’s struggle..

After his lesson in customer service, he really needs a lesson in charging the amount it’s worth. If it’s going to be a messy faff to refit them then charge for the sealant and the time..

I’ve just done a build for a guy that was using internal-nippled deep carbon tubular rims on track hubs… He bought them in laced all sorts of wrong, hoping that I would be able to “finish them off” for him.. In the end it took me nearly 2 hours to take them apart, degrease the spokes and nipples (somebody had told him to grease them.. 8O ) and check the spoke measurements and order some more; and then several hours more to lace them properly, with washers at both ends, de-stress them lots (as there would be no chance to tweak them later), and glue some tubs on.

Some people here will fall over when I say that his bill is £240 for labour, but that is what it’s worth to take on a job like that and make the time to do it properly.

Forks: MZ Comp (coils)

THE most appalling forks that Suntour ever put Marzocchi’s name on. Just a spring in a tube. I’d bin the bike just because of these.

It’s a massive ballache getting a new cable or hose back in, exacerbated by the rough hole cutting where the hose exits and enters.

It may get easier with practice though.. I’ve only had to do one.