It’s probably a bit of both the forks and the wheel dish. If the rim moves left/right when you flip it round then it has to be mis-dished, but if it’s on either side and centre then it’s just cancelling out the wonkyness of the forks.

Yay!

Promise not to fall off like a spaz-wad like I did at the Midlands…

People. If you’re going to do anything with XX1 do this. **** replace your chain. Lots. Then you won’t have to bleat at me when your bonkers expensive cassette has worn out. FYI, I’m not as emotional about this as you are.

the solution

Put this stuff on real tight a couple of turns at a time until it’s a good fit. I think they do it in different widths too.

A fuel 9.anything will be a riot. be prepared to spend some of the money you saved getting brakes, bb and shocks back to spec though.

Saw a group making a right meal of the chain when I was showing some mates round last year. There was a group waiting behind them looking a bit less than pleased. I’m keen to do it before something changes that makes it impossible… As Agent says, the geology is somewhat unstable and the ladders are on their way out..

more rings

Cheers Muddyfool!

Will put some proper tyres back on and see you next week then.

Ah hello! I’ve just moved to Leicester, and not been properly out riding yet :(
Could I join you guys next week? Short notice for tomorrow, as I’ve been given my plans by the OH.

I spent £1.50 to save £2 postage the other day. I got an energy gel out of the deal :)

Mud dock have the tool.. I’ve spent the summer using it on cheap RS forks :) Go and ask Mark or Jonny in the workshop nicely and they’ll sort you out.

When my old Diesel Polo did something like this I spent ages cleaning and checking all the earth connections.. Turned out in the end it was the positive battery connector full of corrosion. It would run all the aux electricals fine, but wouldn’t give enough current to drive the glow plugs and starter.

Trek still have loads of the 2013 version of the 3700 at a big discount – £400 down to £340 rrp. Get you down to a dealer to have a look at what sizes they’ve got in the warehouse.

avoid the wheels on the cheaper one.. the race wheels are much much much betterer, and with a 5 year warranty. It gets proper brakes too.

Crofton Beam Engines are a marvel of engineering.. 200 years old and still able to do their original job of pumping water for the K&A canal. Well worth a see. Combine it with a visit to the windmill and a pint at the pub in Wilton.

Grease your o-ring.. The pump that is. :wink:

pads wore down, used the rivets to slow down, braking surface detached from spider as the rivets wore out

So the tabs or the backing material of the pads cut the rotors to pieces. Is that their problem?

FWIW, I don’t think they’re worth the extra money. I’ve got one as a front rotor though, and it stays true and goes ‘ping’..

One of my favouritest things about the setup sheets that come out of bikefitting sessions is that they never spec the bar reach or drop. It’s like bike geometry tables that will tell you the minutiae of the head tube rise, but never ever the stem length fitted on that bike, or how many spacers are underneath it.
As for yours.. Try moving it 10mm a time without cutting anything. I’d avoid too shorter stem as you’ll knock your knees on short sprinty climbs, so check the reach of the bars

They’re pants. It’s amazing that they can squeeze them down to that price, but that doesn’t make them good.

I’d get 2 cheap hybrids with bolt on wheels and two decent locks. Park one at each station and then you don’t have to annoy your fellow passengers.

Something tacky and binding like linseed oil or wheelsmith/dt spoke prep is all you should use. Most system wheels have either a requirement for loctite, or include a nylock ring in the nipple to stop them turning when unloaded.. Exactly the opposite of grease.
I tend to build them dry and then give them a squirt of silicone afterwards to keep the water out. Never had issues with them loosing tension, and only happy customers.

You lot are so off topic..

Ball peen hammer :)

Job done.

Sounds like their builder is greasing the spoke threads to make them easier to turn.. a short sighted thing to do at best 8O This would make them unwind again even if they were retensioned.
In contrast, my mate’s singlespeed rear wheel from them was over tensioned and would self-pringle.
It’s bonkers inconsistent and I’m glad I don’t have to use them.

^^ as above ^^

Get your bb shell chased and faced and expect that singlespeeding will abuse bearings.

I used to have a bike with the same front tubing and seat stays, but alloy chain stays. It rode pretty well and climbed pretty solidly. That fork is pretty good too.
It’s strange that you can only get it with an 11-32.. Don’t let him start riding with those gears, or he’ll never man up to the task..

OK Gav… I admit I was really skiving coz of the rain! You missed a good one last week. How’s your head?
I was the guy in VC kit that you were talking to at the start Eskay.

if you lose some material it might go down to about a FOS 3.5

Nobody died in the making of this thread…

Drill it out till the two halves of the SFN are separated, then twist them to the side, fold them, and remove them.

A mate of mine didn’t loose his face after a corroded steerer failed because of an old SFN at Morzine, but now I’m all about not mixing different metals there.

Yup. If it’s out of warranty it’s £75 for a replacement

Yep. It used to be better. These days I can barely be bothered to log in and post a repl

Set up a set of Hayes CX 5’s today, and blimey.. They feel better than anything else road/cable wise I’ve ever done before..

Keep taking the outside race off and splodging more grease in there.. they’ll not fully give up until things get really noisy, and you’ve taken out all the adjustment spacers..

New bearings and a proper clean is probably better, but always seemed like delaying the inevitable..

A couple of turns of gaffer tape should bring it up to size, plus or minus one turn..

Loved my old P reg 1.9D Polo. Was great in the snow with a heavy engine over the front wheels, and 48mpg from a non-turbo mechanical injection engine.. Would probably run forever on warmed up earwax.
Not cheap to tax though!

Some FSA cranks work with 24mm BBs. Others will, sort of, just, if you hammer the drive side into the bearing.. It’s not a pretty solution!

I guess some people are more sensitive to it. I notice crank length and cleat placement a lot.

Larsen 2.0 LUST rear, racing ralph 2.25 up front works pretty well

I’ve got a mate called Ted for the same reason.. His younger brother couldn’t say Nicholas, just Ted, so it stuck.

Nope. 2 year warranty though.

Speed awareness course for you.. I actually quite enjoyed mine!

Fair enough Cougar.. Just wondering though, did a siren and lights go off in Singletrack Towers when I mentioned it?

Get rid of the o-ring, and wind it out first so it’s snug fitting, and doesn’t spin when you start to tighten it.