I used a spare bit of shimano hydraulic sleeve and gaffer tape for the ends. Bodge it like a pro!

XT cassette.
The cassette does the shifting, the mech and the shifter just push the chain… That said, don't skimp on replacing chains. Get a chain wear indicator. I put 5 chains through my last XT cassette.

Should have read the post I guess. Do'h!
Even so.. It's the plastic core and the clamps that make lock-ons heavy. Just glue them on and be a man.
Run some less gnurly tyres? It is summer, you know!

If you want it to *feel* faster then ditch the tubes and let the pressure down a bit.. Then do a rolling race with someone with tubes and breeze on past them, blowing raspberries.
Bonty tyres are scary light and have thin sidewalls but are supple as f*** tubeless. Light Conti's are probably better…
Loose the lock-ons and get some proper grips (foam or cork-foam.. one-one are doing some for £4) and stick them on with artists spray mount glue. They will never, ever move again until you have to cut them off.

You might have to move the mech up a bit so the gate for the middle ring lines up correct.. and I think a conventional mech might work better than a low band coz of the way it moves up as it moves out, as opposed to moving over the top of an arc.

@ jimmmy..
Thanks for mentioning Foxit.. 5 mins later my computer was Acrobat free!
It's like squeezing a spot.

X9 chain is real good. Bent their splitlink though. Thought it felt flimsy when I put it on….
Was verrr handily carrying a sram one in my bag though. :-)

maybe they need a longer stem though..

Borrowed a set for my ss..
Really comfy and great for climbing, but make you feel reeally wobbly on switchback descents.
Still toying with actually buying a set, but afraid I'll get laughed at.. again!

Of course, if I was at work I would say:
"On your head be it!"
but I'm not..

Well of COURSE they're going to say buy a new one… Aren't they?
Looks fine to me.. If anyone asks, say "What dent?"

Get your bb faced and chased. It's a perquisite to running external bbs.. and never ever buy a raceface one.

That's OK.. I'm kind of using a weight saving/price thing to see what I can get, and the hope hoop works out cheaper anyway.. and 50g lighter than what I had in mind before.

I like centerlock because shimango rotors are strong like Ox.. and always come out of the packet perfectly round, but I can get the spanner out on this occasion!

Thanks for the offer Trev, but I've already collected the bits to make a rear wheel.
I also ordered a hope wheel earlier.. Should be lighter than what I had in mind with the XTR anyway, and saves me some faff of building it. I'm hoping now that 24 spokes isn't too few… I could stick my whole arm through that!

I always thought that 32 holes was overblown.. Having never even bent a 32 hole front wheel I felt I could get rid of a few.
Tune and King are out as they are 6 bolt.. I like the idea of centerlock and stoopidly light rotors.
I'm leaning towards a hope Pro 3 SP-XC3 front wheel now though having seen the price compared to XTR + Stan's ZTR + Sapim C X-Rays!

I saw that, but yes.. it's only OEM.
I may have to resign myself to an M975 hub, but it won't match the rear and is £40 more.

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You have disconnected.

Yup, you’ve overtightened it!
Don’t ride it too long, or you’ll mash up the cones and the bearings.
You’ll need a cone spanner to do it right.. Usually a 13mm for the front.

Try some silicon spray lube like Stendec Superglide down the side of the pistons, and then work them some. Clean off thoroughly afterwards!
If the lever is not returning then try the same with the master cylinder.