What he said ^^^

The plate is standard. Ask your LBS, although they may need to search around to get it as it's not a normal spare part.
BTW, have a look at the recommended torque on your new cleats. You'll be very surprised at how low it is!

Enigma aint that expensive.. TBH you pay the same for plenty of overpriced American tat.

Hand numbness is probably down to too bigger grips. Lock-ons are always quite chunky. Try normal stick on ones, with a few turns of tidy tie-wire at either end. Just put three turns of wire down, twist it tight with pliers. Clip the twist short with cutters and fold it over gently with a small hammer. Hey presto! Cheaper, lighter, thinner lock-on grips!

Can't help you. Only two proper bikes (ones with gears) are a Trance and an Enigma steel hardtail. There's a Kona HT SS, but I don't ride it much coz my knees don't like me after. I've had the trance for a couple of years, but I just built the Enigma because I was missing the fun of the geared HT thing. It's soooo much fun, just a different type of fun to the Trance.

Keep it. You'll miss it!

Why has nobody mentioned Magura? Piss poor service in my opinion.
Truvativ – sh1tfting and for inventing a standard that was 0.2mm different that hollowtech 2. Genius!
DMR – heavy, ugly, tedious to fit components.

Bontrager do their own tubeless rim strip kit for an equally extortionate price. Not sure if for that wheelset though. JRA were selling some cheap old stock Eclipse rim strips which may fit.. These are what DT now sell as their own brand.

My experience with 355 rims is that mine burped on the first ride out, but re-inflated fine with co2. That was with bonty tubeless ready tyres and the thin yellow tape. I added a layer of gaffer tape to give the tyre less wiggle room, and 300 miles later they've been good as gold.

They won't be fit and forget like your minis but should have similar power with slightly better modulation. I'm not a fan of the crazy spherical washers for setting up the callipers.. either they work first time or you sometimes have to "coax" them with a gentle rub of a hammer.

I've got 172s on 2 bikes and 170s on the other. Deffo notice the difference.. 170 feels a little "cramped" but no problems with hill climbing etc. There's some calculation you can do to work out the correct length based on your true inside leg. It lives in the internet somewhere and I'll try and find it.

Second the squirt! Clean as a whistle and lasts for ages.

Extra points for a pink chain?

I had a set for 2 years. Would recommend getting a grease gun with some marine grease for them using it often. I found that the cleats tended to move around on the bottom of my new shoes (shimanos with a pointless bit of carbon where the cleat sits) so they had to go, and to be honest I'm happier now with M540 pedals.

Magnesium brake callipers… Genius! Guess they never salt the roads where Mr Hayes comes from..

To fix them without getting new pistons you need to take the piston and seal out and very gently sand (or better, wet and dry) the outer ring of the cylinder- the part nearest the pad. Don't sand the wet part (the bit with fluid in, behind the seal). Clean the piston and cylinder thoroughly and replace the seal the opposite way round to before. If it was very corroded then the piston will have a groove all the way around it. If that's the case, it's **** and you need to go buy some real brakes.

Best bit is to check her old feedback:

"Lovely lady,told her she didnt need the cream, collected in person, A++++"

WTF????

Yep, although the stainless springy thing at the top does some of it.. You have to make sure they're fully home. It's very easy to put them together with the spring arms slipping round to the back of the pad too.

Ram it home, as the actress said to the bishop…

Freerip? Works nicely for me.

2x oversize
1x standard
1x 26.0 road stem shimmed down to 25.4 with a sainsburys lemonade can!
A pile of old spare standard stems with no home to go to…

Its the same as the remote on newer fox shocks. Shimano make it.

Wow! 10.99 for 1/8th part of a £25 headset!
I would just buy the same headset. Use the crown race, and keep the bearings as spares. Check the number on the headset bearings there should be an angle marker on it.. such as 36 x 45 degree. just get anything that has the same bearings. Should be cheaper on flebay.

Discs on Hayes usually only last about 4-5 sets of pads in the wet. Hopes last longer. Never really see worn out Shimango rotors though.
I reckon it would be useful to take some spares just in case you bend them anyway.

oops. I said that twice.

Can I say cock too?
Cock!
I once broke a pair of 2 week old SIDs wiping out on a diesel slick..
Leant into the apex, thought "that smells like di…" and then hit the deck.
Bent the steerer, and wounds with diesel in take a long time to scab up.

Goan: Diesel on the road is a mechanical failure. It's a failure of the interface between the tyre and the road.

Can I say cock too?
Cock!
I once broke a pair of 2 week old SIDs wiping out on a diesel slick..
Leant into the apex, thought "that smells like di…" and then hit the deck.
Bent the steerer, and wounds with diesel in take a long time to scab up.

Goan: Diesel on the road is a mechanical failure. It's a failure of the interface between the tyre and the road.

Park triple allen key.
Agree on the sidewinder gloves. I just bought the same set again. £10 on fleabay this time though!

Second the Kaffenbak. Mine never felt flexy when loaded up. Won't fit massive tyres though, unless they've started making the chain stays longer.

Tip of the week for stuck sprockets:

Use a second chain whip to pull the stuck ones backward. Then they just fall off.

I even found small gouges in my hope xc ti freehub body. I think it's something we just have to live with. The standard will probably eventually be replaced with the one from shimano dura-ace and ultegra wheelsets and cassettes. Same shape, but much deeper splines.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Unbranded-Budget-Shell-Sealed-Cartridge-Square-Taper-Bottom-Bracket-with-Steel-Shimano-Splined-Cups-68-mm-35.htm

My god… 131mm! It could catch on gate posts…

I bet you all a fiver that it's the end stop screw. If it's snagging once per revolution then it's just trying to climb gears.
Bet is null and void if the hanger is bent.

Second the Cateye LD-500. Indestructible!!! and other usefulness like they can be screwed on to a reflector mount and your LBS will always have a spare mount floating around…

TBH Fishers do a good job with rockshox. They have to deal with stuff on an individual basis which should be on a general recall. Hands up whoever has had a leaky pair of forks…? I've sent them 2 pairs in the last week.
However, when stuff ends up being awkward to deal with, it gets put to the back of the list and forgotten about.. Hence why Dahon with their fragile, uppity bikes jumped ship.

If it were me I'd go for the wheels (get some that can be qr15'd if you need to) and get the rear shock serviced and set up right. Surely if you bought a second hand bike you wouldn't want to throw the money at it that you could have spent getting a new one.

CNC plastic chain guard!

The taper is sort of the same. same angle, but the campag one starts wider than the shimango one so campag cranks don't go on as far as they should on a 'mango bb. Still, my veloche cranks haven't fallen off it yet…

Unbolt the calliper and thread it around the frame. I'm sorry if I don't understand the question.

It's standard width gear cable. Just use as is. With regards to the outers, use shimano sp-41 and their outers for best performance,, Theirs are sealed with rubber o-rings.

shifters make the biggest difference.

…that would make a difference as you are putting new cables in….

Your chainrings *want* a new chain.

Oh, alright then.. Girlfriend goo!!

WTF is this? F_off with yr adverts.

Artists spraymount. I've got a bottle of niceday spraymount. My grips do slowly slowly creep, but I'll have to cut the fuc*ers off.

sterilise the scissors and then cut them off.
Are you a mouse?