Noooo!! Stupid photobucket! Never mind.. This one's a redhead!

You could use cat gut instead. Or even some flax.

Not strange at all. As the freehub wears it precesses around the seal and lets crap in the drive side.

Track pump for me. Do you think the CO2 could make the sealant go off? Could do.. Acidity makes a lot of emulsions curdle.

AFAIK it's 122.5 for old LX. Please don't quote me on this though!
You can get 127 if you want to extend it, although you could cheat a little and put an HT2 spacer behind the drive side…

Was going to ask.. Does any one else get solid nuggets of latex rolling around in their tyres after a couple of weeks with Stans?

Most cable stretch is actually the sleeves settling down. Quite often the plastic inners and outers settle down leaving the longitudinal wires exposed. These bend when more cable tension is applied and cause the indexing to go off.

Take the end caps off the cable sleeves and trim the sticky out bits of wire off. These are what's causing the miss-indexing. Clean it all up and re-assemble with some light grease or oil in it. While it's off check the rear mech is moving freely.
Oh, and as PP says, make sure the mech cage is totally parallel with the sprockets on a middle gear.

Provided the tyre sidewalls aren't to thin/porous it should work fine. What tyres and rims are you using?

Just get some tie wire and wrap a couple of turns around the slot the clip goes in. Twist it tight and clip off the remainder.

And the labels aren't anywhere near the valves.. :roll:

^what James said.

Just looking at that seat makes my hips hurt.. Can you get away with a shorter stem, like 60 or 70mm? and maybe drop the height of it while you are there.

I think Giant used to do one.. not sure these days though.
If you've got a Thomson stem bag, then you can put a bottle cage in it, burn some holes for the bolts and screw it on. Worked way better than a saddle bag for me. I guess you would need 2 though!

Don't know what nextdaytyres.com have for tubeless 29ers, but I ordered a maxxis medusa at 4.15pm yesterday, and sure enough it was here today! Does what it says on the tin I guess…

TBH the amount of sidewall and tread tears I've got running bonty tubeless ready tyres has got me well over their cheapness. I'd avoid them for tubeless unless you plan on running 60psi!

Just pack under the rim tape with a few rounds of gaffer tape.. Sorted!

I have Avira. It's a lot quieter than AVG, and the free one is more configurable. It just gets on with the job.

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Get whichever is the cheapest you can find with the black box damper.. ie, Teams. I've got a set of Reba Race and Team 09s and the Teams are definitely more stable at speed.

Most shoes don't have a deep enough tread to stop them rocking laterally. I had Alliums and Z-Controls. Found that 2 differnt shoes rocked around on both. My feet tended to walk to the outside of the pedal and then rock over the end of the spring.
I went through a stage of speedplay frogs, and now I'm back on Shimano shoes and Shimano pedals.
The trick for my knees was getting some proper stiff racing shoes. Ankle support is critical to stop your knees wandering all over the place in the pedal stroke.

Probably got a little more to do with innertube/tyre things.. Very little with radial spokeyness. Rough up the rim around the bead a bit so the tyre sticks better, and make sure that the valve hole is burr free and very smooth.

They will usually sort asap. Returns are really quick. I had a hub with a missing QR.. QR was in the post the next day.

Jeez.. Ordered 2 lights that were in stock early Nov.. Shipment waiting for other bits pending till 30th Nov.. When other bits don't turn up the lights mysteriously aren't in stock either.. Then mysteriously are in stock again when I tell them to cancel the other bits and refund all my money. Why do they sit with their thumb up their ass on 2 items that I desperately want for 3 whole weeks? grrr. Never mind…

I have a slightly odd-ball prototype steel hardtail. Much like the Ego geometry I think. I love it. Much more stable than my old Klein Attitude going downhill, but still climbs just as well.. Can be placed accurately and chucked around equally as well. I grin like a loon when I ride it!

Yes, just without the valve!
(edit) that's if you're running them non tubeless..

Depends on the profile of the crankset. Older and cheaper cranks use 122 or 127.5 Newer ones run 113 or sometimes 118. You could possibly put on a shorter bb and run the middle ring on the outside. Measure the chainline (center of seattube to centre of ring) for the outer ring, subtract half the difference in the old and new bb lengths and see if it equals about 50mm. Usually 47-50mm is about right.

Road flat bar shifter and 3 rings will only work with a triple road mech.. The leverage on the cable clamp arm is different from MTB. Did you get a 48 tooth chainset? Will be spintastic otherwise.

Happy with SLX myself. Nice lever feel and even power delivery. Stock organic pads did not last long though.

Giant made a mount for the MPH brakes which fits on some other brakes which doesn't increase the rotor size. Really odd zigzaggy shape. A giant dealer MAY be able to order it as a spare part. It's a couple of years old now so may not still be available. Good luck!

It's not integrated, but it is ****. I had a m-part headset. All the bearings migrated north, as a groove in my steerer could testify.

I had an Attitude (a bike, not a **** off you ****) of the same vintage.. After several years of ball ache and back ache and shitty steering I got a 90mm stem and risers and never looked back. Partly down to the microscopic head tube I think. I loved the way that bike rode.

Now I'm thinking of putting flat bars on my Trance..

Damn.. I promised in my pre-entry that I'd be sporting a fine handlebar moustache! Was that a binding contract?

Oh well, gonna get the ss out tomorrow morning and start limburgering up…

SLX or PG 980 have smaller (only the big 3 rings) cages. Haven't seen how they work on Pro2s but they are cheaper.

Moly is really for high temperatures and high speed, although it would work ok. Maybe just a bit thick.
Try some full synthetic grease like finish line or pedros?

I stopped my mates 475 hubs from leaking grease onto the rotor by tying some string round them

It's blindingly easy (with reasonable dexterity!) until you loose the pawl springs. Best done in a bright clean area.. far away from the fridge!

Oh yeah.. Don't forget to check the ring (fnar!) inside the hub still has all it's teeth. And don't fill the thing with grease.. A light coating will do.

It's easiest if you remove the cassette.
Pill the drive side end cap off the axle and you should by gentle wriggling be able to remove the freehub body. Once it's moved by about 5mm locate the 3 pawls and cover them with 3 fingers. Pull it the rest of the way off, holding the pawls down. there's a spacer behind the freehub. remove that as well (and remember to put it back when you re-assemble!)
Clean everything with a cloth and some gt85 or disc cleaner. Don't blast the bearings with this! Check the pawls still have a good edge and aren't broken or cracked.
Light grease like finish line on everything. Too heavier a grease and the pawls will stick down It's a bit of a fiddle getting the pawl springs and pawls back in place. a dab of grease behind helps.
Re-assemble in reverse order.
Ride.
Easy!