Got the park loo roll holder, headset needs changing though!

Poor quality tat really.. You should have faced the frame.

Oh no! I can't see it there… They must have discontinued the Park loo roll holder! Nooooooo!!!!

Er.. It's just what it looked like 3000 years ago.. There's nothing (well very very little) in space to diminish the light so it keeps on going

If you ever hear a loud clap while out in the bush [sic] then that's the sound of the Wombat's sphincter closing.

Nope! Longer nipples still have the threaded section in the same place as normal ones. They are only longer to clear deeper section rims. Get some DB spokes wound up tight as a harp. Then you will have a stiff wheel.

Yeeeeeas, (said Jeremy Paxman) but get some sealant as they will stay up better and you will be given the holy grail of having next to no punctures.

That should be 6Nm before the SI unit pedants come and get me.

Everyone overtightens rotor bolts. that's when threadlock causes issues. 6nm is less than a wrists worth!
I've happily used spraypaint when I couldn't find threadlock.

I'm good these days, but I did get suspended for a week from primary school for kneeing the headmaster in the nuts!

Check the bearings are all free and there isn't play anywhere. Does sound like the freehub, as lower gears put more torque on it, and closer to the pawls too

I think Hope have a video on how to do it. not sure though!

Possibly a knackered pawl in the hub. They're really easy to take to bits. You need to see if the pawl teeth are still sharp, or if there's any bits broken off and floating around in there.

That's amazing. I'm actually crying.

Just the one for me:
A s/h Enigma frame in Columbus steel that was too small for my mate.. some bargain basement carbon cranks, reba teams and hard bits from on-one.. and a drivetrain/wheel/brake setup from various retailers and my spares bin where not one single component matches any other. Even the brake callipers don't match the levers!
So that's a 24 1/2 lb steel hardtail, all for £970, and I love it to bits!
I did the south downs way on it in one day at the end of summer and it was faultless. I missed my inbred when I sold it 3 years ago, but I don't miss it any more. This pistol whips the shit out of it. Rides better, descends better, singletracks better, climbs like my old Klein, if not better..
In fact, I've gotta dig out a picture of it.. Here:

Oh, and my other bikes both got new forks and drivetrains, but that's not news.

You will need to zip tie the sleeve in place around the guides or it will walk with the suspension action. Don't just tie it round the tubes, figure of 8 the ties around the guides.

I'm deffo a fan of the Squirt. It's longer lasting than the other dry lubes I've tried, easy to clean and not being solvent based, it's theoretically environmentally friendlier.

We are a funny lot aren't we? Forums like this can create all sorts of viral opinions that can freely market or totally erode a product. Sometimes that viral marketing is the vital thing when something is new and fresh but can easily turn bad for a number of reasons.. Colour options, perceived service, value, perceived audience, wrong rad/sick^gnarl ratio…
Given a choice of X, Y or Z, penty of folk who've just tried Z will say; "Yep, Z is amazing, buy Z!" and plenty others will go; "Z failed [maybe for a valid reason nothing to do with the performance, manufacture or function of Z] so Z is shit. Don't buy Z!" These people have some validity at least..
Some will merrily pipe up that "I bought a Z when I should have bought an X. I bought an X in the end. I liked it. Therefore Z is shit." I get the horrible feeling that these people are the most vociferous of them all.

You may find an entire hub is cheaper than a freehub body on its own. Then you get a nice new set of bearings and cones to boot!
Try google shopping for the M code number on the hub

You could just use your existing rotors for the mean time. Even if the pads are narrower it'll still work fine and will save a good bit of your budget. Just get the right adaptor for the front to take it out to 180. The current front adapter should fit, although that's not a promise if it's Hayes! I run LX callipers on Hayes 160 rotors on one of my bikes with no problems.

That said get SLX ones. I'm very happy with mine.

Could be pistons. Clean them up and work them in and out a bit. If you've got a yellow bleeding block then stick that in and try the "zip tying the lever back to the bar" trick over night. If any bubbles have got in they'll work their way to the top. If you tap the lever lightly a few times after that, they should be out into the reservoir.

I'm running around (near Reading also) on a Trailraker 1.95 on the rear and a Maxxis Medusa 2.0 on the front. The maxxis is smaller volume by far. Both cut through to the bottom of the mud easily.

What's brown and sticky and runs round your garden?

A fence.

Running hope floatys instead of XTR centrelock will save you about another 100g anyway.
Hopes are easier to maintain over Mavics and you can always get spare spokes in a jiffy.

You may be able to get a purchase on it with the right sized "easy out" to pull it free, but it may be better to cut down an old spoke to hook it from behind.

Second the Olympus Mju waterproof ones. The slightly wider angle (28mm equiv) lens is rally handy.

'big' brand that have been around for an age

They have owned Specialized for a long long time..

South African plonk, Toots and the Maytals.

An old mate of mine with a diesel landrover used to cover half the radiator grill with tape in the winter to speed up the warm up. Prob no risk of overheating so makes a lot of sense. In theory a hotter engine will be more thermally efficient anyway.
On a side note, has anyone else used that B30 biodiesel from morrisons? Boy does that stuff suck in the cold!

Pop the ferrules of the cable sleeves and trim the pointy out wires back.

FS= float and flow
HT = place and ping
edit.. I can never decide about which one to bring

Always have the basics in stock. Set up your eftpos program to have a good re-order level for the obvious stuff… Tubes, patches, co2 carts, energy powders, energy gels.. and the obvious spare parts.. mech hangers for ALL the bikes you sell, bar tape, brake bleed kits, pads..
All the stuff that someone will be frantically needing at the last minute you've got to have. These are the staples and the bits that folks will remember you for.
Don't open Sunday, even for a couple of hours. Pissing off your staff to hang around in a mostly empty shop won't make you friends. Opening late one day a week will net you more money, and cost you less in staff time. If you do open late, post a big sign on the door so people know it.
Advertise. I've worked in some very niche shops who expected people to just walk through the door. Make it directed so you don't waste money. Hitting large local employers with cycle scheme advertisements would be good. That's the kind of thing that generates repeat business and good word of mouth.
After a year or 2 when old stuff starts to accumulate, be ruthless in clearing it out. Open an ebay shop. Don't let the old stuff use up the space you have, and if it ain't shifting then don't fret about selling it at a loss. If you don't sell it now, you'll only have to sell it at a greater loss later. Keep your stock as low as possible while retaining what you want to sell. That way you will stay profitable rather than getting drowned in stock.
In servicing have a clear price structure, and make sure it reflects the real costs of doing a job. Produce service reports on jobs, noting parts that may be due for replacement, and make sure your eftpos program keeps a record of these. Never offer a discount on labour. It's the largest drain on your profit so sell it for what it's worth.

but.. (while I'm still here..) have you broken said chain at all?

ok.. since it's 1am… I got a couple dealing with cable rub. One says FSA, the other is for disco brakes.. Now I can sleep.

about a tonne. give or take!

After the beardy ****, can someone explain the flowery garden? Oh… Hang on, I think I almost get it.. Nope. It's gone.

It's embarrassing, I know!

In response to your cock I give you:

Front mech won't be a problem if you get a set of road bike flat bar shifters.. Don't know the code I'm afraid! Just don't get MTB ones.. the rear will be ok, but the front all over the place.
Make sure you get brake levers with adjustable pull ratio too. You want to set it low for callipers.

The Sisters of Mercy – Vision Thing