Was thinking it might be. Went to Holmbury on Sat instead. Lovely weather.
Get my rear shock back tomorrow, so want to go play this sat/sun. Only prob is my dissertation work has to be in next Wed! Will give you a shout if I'm feeling on top of it.

Trudgies

[Edit] actually, just Muppets

Fair enough. Was worried for a second that it might be the others.

But everyone knows that you must have a minimum 4! It's the law.
Which other one is going?

And they've got to be from brakes with the same depth of pad. I've been using Hayes ones with Shimano and they take an age to dry off coz the rotor doesn't get swept clean on the inside.
What size rotors are you using? On the market for some 160s!

Mini, Tech and standard floaty ones are fine with shimano.

Nooo! Not the nomad! Is it coz I kept mocking your clashing frame/hub colour combo?

So what's the plans? Going to hop back on the short travel bandwagon?

Nope. You still have the same amount of thread, measured from the shoulder.

Put a straight edge up against the post.
It sounds like it's bent.

Mate of mine just got a SS rear wheel. It was very slow to arrive, and then turned up taco'd. This can happen with flexy rims if the spoke tension is too high. I didn't see it as he's not so local to me. His LBS wouldn't touch it as it was so over-tensioned so he sent it back to them.
To be fair they did send it back perfectly round, but over-tensioning spokes especially if you're using alloy nips is poor.

wow. just gone late night googleshopping, and indeed the alfine is as cheap as the the nexus. the impending 11spd is making a difference obviously.
132—135.. things would bend.. who would care anyway?

If you're a medium, they're selling some cheapy 135 spaced ones off at the moment.. also wouldn't it be cheaper to do it with a nexus if you don't need the disk brake?

Liking those colours!
If I were you I'd zip tie those toe straps to the pedal cages though, or the axles will eat them!

It looks like a Formula one. They make OEM hubs for pretty much everyone. There's generally two types of them. That's the one for cartridge bearings. Try a trek dealer as most of the Bonty branded hubs are actually Formula.

HTH!

I tried mine (geared inbred though) with my old 80mm bombers when I got it.. It felt all wrong. Too long in the back to be so upright at the front.
I got some 03 MX pro's (yup, a while ago!) the next day and it was spot on. Slightly slacker and better weighted.
It may be ok with 80mm forks if you can pull the rear wheel right forward.

is the ring on back to front? If it needed grinding it might be. That could make the chain climb off in the small sprockets and ride up between the ring and the bashguard.

Maybe redo the yellow tape? Stans say you're supposed to key the rim with fine sandpaper, degrease it and then do the tape really **** tight.

Fnar, snark!

Pull the lowers away from the uppers while turning the bolt? Not too hard though, just put some tension on it.

Scratch the surface of one of the broken nipples.
Silver grey = ally and they will always break if the spoke is too short.
brassy coloured is what you want to see. They will be more tolerant of short spokes. They usually won't snap, but the thread will pull out.
If you're breaking either then it's time for a respoke anyway.

[Edit] Black DT comps come with alloy nipples. All the others come with brass. Only the Swiss know why!

Do it. if it wasn't designed in California then it maybe would have one.

I've spotted it..
Old ones £160.
New ones £230.

That would make them crap in my book too.

Everything else is a complete contradiction though.. WTF?

lusso max repel. cheap, toasty, water repellent and a good fit.

Proper 3/32 SS chains are different in design to 8 spd ones. They have a bush between the inner plates, rather than just having the metal of the plates turned in.
I got an Izumi one from fleabay. £16. Japanesey shinyness. job done.

other way round. if they're too long then they could bind and that's more of a pain in the nips.
It's an odd size.. What you building?

The floaty ones are not "attached" to the spider as such. The rotor pushes against the outside of a thing that's a bit like like a big chainring bolt. The inside of this pushes against the spider. When heat expansion sets in then the rotor is free to shift side to side.

Ahha! Cinnamon_girl.. I know exactly where you were. Promise I won't tell keyses2.
I was once out nearish there in the evening. I surprised a whole bunch (insert collective noun here) of roe deer. They scampered along in the field next to me for a bit, and then all leaped the path I was on in front of me. I guess I put the fear of the bearded singlespeeder into them.

Stop… Hammer time.

You could also get a Rotor BB. They have self aligning bearings

The yellow Stans tape will solve all your problems. My 355 burped on its first ride, so I bulked it out with a couple of layers of gaffer tape. Has stayed up fine since.
I really don't get why tubeless valves cost so much more than innertubes. I just cut mine out of dead tubes anyway.

last time the lbs got very shirty supplying the rim and spokes because the hub is not on any spoke calculators.

Aw. Poor things. They didn't know how to use a measuring stick.

Don't worry about the hub spacing. It'll bend to accommodate that much. You could always add some spacers in-between the lock nuts if you want it perfect.

Surely you could get a replacement roller and bastardise it onto a jockey wheel type.

And peel that price label off the head tube ffs! Leaving it on is just showing off.

My sis had a masked party for her 30th. I took a roll of masking tape and created it on the fly.

Probably what coatsey said^^^
I love fixing them like this when my boss is saying "No! Replace them! The customer WANTS new ones."

The eject button?

I'll get my coat..

I always have difficulty with my xt hub. Is it loose as mine comes loose no matter how much I tighten it. I just tighten the cone up to about where it's need, tighten the lock ut by fingers and the the QR do it's job. Worked for past couple of years fine

Surely this is a troll???

Surely the definitive answer should be arm pump, however a mate of mine swears by brake pump…

I had one. The poppers aren't meant to pop out, but do anyway and become weakened. I had to glue mine back in with epoxy, although I'm sure this probably isn't recommended… If the adjustment thingy at the back can't cope at full stretch then yes, it's too small. measure your head circumference with a tape.
What you need is a Fox Flux.. A better fitting and much much more durable helmet.

Good! I still want that bike. I'm itching to go back to NZ in the next year or so… Pining for the fjords! Maybe I can twist his arm for it then.

Yeah.. they do have quite a road thing going. Loved that place. Learnt a bodge or two there! Was thinking the other day about the Gary Fisher Supercaliber that's probably still hanging up in "Siberia". There's a goldmine for retrobike hiding out the back…