Anyone tried using the loopy green loctite used for bushings and bearings on the splines? (sorry, can't remember the number) I've known it to fix some FSA cranks that this has happened on. If they're not too far gone then it might save them for a while. The splines need to be really well degreased for it to hold though. There's also one for sleeves and bushings thats supposed to stop fretting, which is how these fail.

This one doesn't have a crown race:

Just my tuppence worth.

Silly question, but you haven't broken the axle have you?
Quite common if it's a cheapy shimano hub.

That's a normal one. The cable clamp is attached to the outside plate of the parallelogram.
On a rapid rise one it's on the inside plate, and the spring pulls it to the lowest sprocket when unloaded

This is the one I meant:

here

It's got quite sticky outy pins so will be fine for joining without a splitlink.. Mine aint gone wrong yet anyway!

Izumi track chain? They're a bushed chain so should stretch less. I got one on fleabay for about 15 quid.
Do you mean 1/8" width chain or is that 1/16" measured width of the chainring? If it's a standard DH chainring it'll be fine with a 3/32" width chain, but I'm not sure about the sprocket.

edit.. I would be searching elsewhere though and making absolutely sure it's nothing else slipping that's causing this

Could try artists spray mount.. I've used it to stick chainstay guards and grips down and it's grippy as **** once it's dried.

Like Glencampbell said.. electrolytes! Meant that I only ached afterwards… but oh I ached then..
I was using 1 and a half nuun tabs in a 2l camelbak, and a 1l bottle on the bike with non electrolyte energy drink. I filled a load of zip-lok bags with bottle sized, strong doses psp22. Was easy peasy when we got to water stations then.
Take plenty of bars, sausage rolls, cheese sarnies etc. Gels with caffeine are awesome when it's getting on a bit! basically a bag full of food won't do you wrong.
3l seemed enough between each water stop and we did it in the summer. If you're a thirsty chap it might be worth taking a spare bottle though.

I went to meet some mates in the pub when I got to Winchester.. 2 pints and I was fast asleep in the corner.

I got thinking about that after I wrote that. I guess I've not looked carefully enough inside the cans when I've been cleaning them.. Was thinking that a groove would be the only other way to make a position sensitive valve.
In that case it's no bloody wonder that they get stuck down, with the edges of a groove chewing away at the air seal on each cycle. It's not down to the seal swelling though, just down to it loosing it's integrity. As soon as it lets some air past it'll stop full extending to equalise and gradually pump more air into the neg chamber on each cycle.

Did you put the yellow tape on **** tight, after keying the rim etc?
The air might be coming out from the valve, but that's not necessarily where it's coming from.

My Hex fell to bits. The bit where the cradle attaches to the shell (by your temple) broke.
I've used a Fox Flux since. Uber bomb proof it is..

I'm not sure that's right. I've never seen anything that looks like a transfer port on any of the Float shocks I've done air can services on. There's something like a transfer port on the boost valve air cans, but that does something entirely different, increasing the chamber volume part way through the stroke… If there was a transfer port, it would be open at the position where you put the air can back on, and it wouldn't build pressure like it does when you push the can into place.
Sounds like the marketing dept haven't fully got their heads round the product.
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong though!

ya ya.. nobody else mentioned size, did they?

Don't worry bristolbiker.. They won't be using Simon's tool on it! 😉

Nope. No transfer port in a rear shock. When air leaks from +ve to -ve then the shock becomes "stuck down".
Some shocks don't have a -ve chamber, like the cheaper RockShox ones, and some have an elastomer -ve spring, like DT ones.

Here. Let me do it for you.

Havent had to degrease my chain since i started using Squirt last year.
Chain and sprokets lasting better then ever before.

Same here. Degreaser is the Devil's jizz!
I just take the chain off, slosh it about under some running water and then dry it off. Job done.

The -ve air chamber is charged when you assemble the air sleeve. It makes it quite an effort to put on.

Chances are that it had leaked all it's air out before, especially if the wiper seal was shagged.

It's pufta. Enjoy your imminent buggering!

The legend

Try as you might, you can never be as good as Akis!

No idea. What are you after?

Sleeper!

Ah, Louise…. Sigh!

I binned Barclays to go with Smile about 6 years ago. Never had a single problem with them. You can use co-op brnach facilities if you ever need too and the ethical thing is a bonus too.

yep, that's a no. get the SLX as they've got adjustable clamps. Future proofs you against new and unusual brake levers..

Eek! Old to the power of skool!

I was talking about one of these:

'nother suggestion..
Enigma Ego ST

+1 for Olympus Mju Tough.
I got the missus one last xmas. Very good colour rendition and it's got a 28mm equivalent wide angle on the zoom, not the usual 35mm, which is handy.
Not quite so good with isolated subjects and flash though. Tends to overexpose.

Sorry, spoke half a sentence there!
The chasing tool uses the threads for allignment, to get the best average between the two.
The facing tool then uses both the threads for a guide as it cuts the face.
The BB then uses the face for allignment and hopefully after all the chewing, that's square.

Course it's not. You're relying on the face for alignment, which brings us back to the original point…

Spam, egg, spam, spam and spam.

basically it's a 2 taps, a left and a right hand threaded, joined by a narrower bar, so you can screw in one end or the other

So you screw both sides in at the same time, giving you the best average of both threads. How were you using it?

So you end up with loose threads which you then use as the guide for the facing tool… (single sided of course)

No. The tool faces the shell between guides emplaced in the threads on BOTH sides.

FYI there is no such thing as a single sided facing tool.

edit..

All chasing tools screw in from both sides at once

mine doesn't

Show me it.. I've never used one like that, and surely, WTF? What numpty would design one like it?

Editing makes a double post!

As Four Tet say… "There is no such thing as a metal Frisbee."

if you chase a misaligned thread don't you risk removing it ?

And yes also. I had a "friday afternoon" warranty replacement klein frame that was well out. I removed a LOT of material when I chased it from the drive side. It never stopped creaking until I padded the threads with PTFE tape

With a double sided chasing tool? Unusual…

er… yes. not unusual. All chasing tools screw in from both sides at once, making the remaining thread the best average of either side.

I'd also be interested to know if you were 100% certain that the threads were perfectly aligned in that case too.

er.. yes, coz I'd just chased them.

Thread chasing and shell facing are two different things!
It used to be that the threads were chased on rusty old steel frames to help a new bottom bracket in. That's all.
Facing the shell wouldn't make a blind bit of difference on a cartridge bottom bracket, as the shell of the bb holds it straight. With external bb's that isn't the case.
The reason bb's have to be chased before they're faced is because the chasing tool gives a guide for the facing tool so it's perpendicular to BOTH sides of the bb.
I've chewed off surprising amounts of frame material with a facing tool to make a bare surface.. 1.5mm off a Santa Cruz for instance. The threads were pretty straight, but the outside shell can be well out. As Brant says they're often cut after welding, but this does nothing for the shell face.

Nah

It's often the cable sleeves fault.
Dislodge the cables. Take the sleeve ends off the sleeves. If there's sticky out wires then dismantle the cable run and trim the ends off the sleeves. Reassemble it, giving the cable a good tug to settle it down.

The inbred is longer in the rear and has a higher BB. About half an inch each way. Makes it not feel so tight on the singletrack IMO.