All this talk of compressors and soapy bubbles and CO2… I've always managed at home with a track pump. Sometimes worked up a sweat though!
Wetting the bead and the bead socket with sealant helps it pop into place, and I always bung in the sealant before seating the second side of the tyre; saves the hassle of faffing with the valve core.

I got an FSA carbon post of on-one for £20 last year. don't know how it compares to other carbon posts but it's much flexier on the same bike than a Thomson.

Sizing is nominal anyway.. 203 should be fine. You can always phone hope to confirm.

I had an inbred with a Thomson post that did this.
I took a half round file and lightly roughed up the inside of the seat tube.. turning it round, rather than up and down.
Worked for me. 😀

they'll probably bind on the nipples. if it's 36 spoke would they fit if you built it 4 cross?

Yep. The front and the back ones have different adapters (as the mounts are offset by 20mm), but resepctively they both make 160mm.

How about a 3/32 Izumi track chain? It's got very deep side plates and it's a proper bush chain so should stretch less and flex less. Shiny too!

And maybe try some chainring spacers? That should get the chainline properly sorted out.

I may be wrong on this but I think the spacers that come behind 10 speed road cassettes are the same diameter as BB spacers. If you could find enough of these (about 3 I guess) then you could fine tune chainline with the BB offset.

That looks amazing, especially the rail trail. Must be hard work where there's washboard ruts or sleepers.

Is Ayatolahofniche down that way then?..

They are there to make single speeders feel inadequate…

True, but Kris Holm may never conceive..

Why not just use an indexed shifter and cut out the extra gears with the limit screws?

Starship Troopers.

Now that SHOULD have had a sad ending. In the book all his friends, family and girlfriends are dead and there's no "Woop Woop Yearh!" victory.. Just an indeterminable future as a career soldier in an endless war.

I've got an old Hope XC with a Ti freehub currently holding my girlfriend's bike up, could just overhaul it and run that for the time being, but I'm really hankering for a hub that I can really lay the power through without worrying about skipping.

It's too good for her. Have it away! I've got one of them. 5 years old and I've cleaned the freehub twice. It makes a really satisfying clang when it engages and has never skipped. Hope XC freehubs need quite light grease as the springs are quite shandy.. Finishline seems to work.

I tried ghettoing some Conti Verts. After several goes and lost of riding and shaking they stayed up alright but the sealant dried out really quickly. If you get any clear ooze coming out the sidewalls then give them a regular top up.

put back in shed.

and not buy fox.

+4 😆

I do sometimes take mine to bits just to see what the guts look like. Apparently it's called "servicing" but it's really just to satisfy my curiosity.

Bout the same here.. 18psi tubeless on the front and around 30ish on the back. Usually a bit softer on the full sus and a bit harder on the hardtail as I keep mashing rear tyres. 10.5 Stone BTW

BA code-share with Qantas so you could end up on either. My (Aussie) ex and I had nothing but hassle from Qantas.. Late flights (2x broken planes!), shit communication, high date change fees, arsey check-in staff, broken in-flight entertainment……

Specialiazed, bontys, Maxxis, schwalbes

At least 2 of those 4 are made of cheese. I've had loads of Bonty tyres as they always come cheap (or free!) and I've slashed sidewalls in about half of them.
As they all slowly die one by one I'm going over to Maxxis LUST as they just work.

No pics, but I'll give you a clue.. There's a circlip holding the inner bearing in. You've got to remove the outer bearing first by moving the spacer to one side and drifting it out.

File the spider and not the ring. Should be fine then.

I was a Marine in Hornblower 3.. I think I get about half a second screen time!

Just squirt it inside with some squirty stuff. What have you got to loose?

Oh.. and Skyline..

Does your Skyline GTR have tubes in then?

Well done Skyline. There there..

Whack a few extra layers of gaffer tape on. Once the tyre is **** hard to put on it should be about right. Unless you see sealant seeping through the sidewalls of the tyre you shouldn't need to put extra sealant in.

Do you think Nick Griffin is actually gay, or is that just a vicious rumour?
No. I think it’s a vicious rumour.

Have you seen him in the flesh? He’s quite mincey.
I’ve only seen him on the news. I really like him.

I nearly fell off my seat.

I'd take the chain off and keep that somewhere properly dry and stick a greasy allen key in all the bolt heads to stop them from going rusty. Don't worry about the forks. Flipping it upside down for half an hour when you get back will lube up the bushings and foam rings. The pads might end up leaving rust marks on the rotors so put the wheels in back to front and put a spacer in the brakes.

If anyone breaks into your shed and tries to nick it they'll be well confused!

I'm pretty sure an Orbit MX is not a deep cup headset though.

Noooo..

Don't but the park ones. They're a **** rip off, and are fragile to boot. You can get plenty better ones elsewhere.. See my post above.

These are good:
Beal

and they also do cheap nitrile disposables for the fiddly jobs

The raceface cranks use soft plastic/hard rubber washers on the axle (non drive side end up against the crank arm) to adjust the preload on the bearings.

To be clear, that's what I meant.. Not the BB cup spacers!!!

Have you got spacers in there? Take them all out and put it together. Wang it up tight and then tap it to one side with a mallet. You should see a gap. Measure this or jam a stack of spacers in to see how many fit. Take it apart and put it back together with that many spacers.

AW cycles? when I used to work there we did plenty of builds with them

Ah.. One of them.
Most mech hangers make a sandwich out of the drive side dropout, sitting flat against the dropout that's part of the frame. Santa's little cruzers are different….
Sorry, I've got no idea on this one, apart from buying and trying another dropout. You can always keep the other as a spare.

Is the hanger on the inside (ie. working as the face that the hub sits against)? If so then maybe really rough up the faces with a file or something and then degrease and glue with the red threadlock.

Yup. Sapim are good, and cheaper too. Smoother turning nipples as well, if you like that kind if thing!

Mark. Picture 11.jpg is still there. Please please please remove it. For your own sake.

Or YARRRRRGH! as you slip your eye patch into place..

They aren't discounted because no shop in their right mind would keep them in stock. The complete cranks however tend to be window dressing until the end of the year.

And shout RAHHHHH! while you do it.

I've got an FSA 44/29 with an 11/34. It doesn't miss the granny ring at all. However I'd rather be running a smaller big chainring as the jump is huge. Probably a 40 or 41. The stupid 94mm 4 bolt is not a real standard though..
22/32-36 on the front is fine if you're just mincing. (reaches for asbestos blanket)

That's odd. You didn't bottom out the threads on the headset press did you?