nope.. dings just happen due to tyre pressure. if it was loose it would become a flat spot. Higher tensioned spokes can take more compression before they flex and stop supporting the rim. It sounds like the wheel had enough tension overall to support it, but the builder didn't ping the spokes to find and even out the tension on all of them

"The Hope floating rotor features a Stainless Steel Braking Surface riveted to an Central Aluminium Spider."

The steel part on a hope one presses against the outer side of a rivet. The inner side of the rivet presses against the ally carrier. When the steel heats up it expands and the slightly oversized rivet allows it to float from side to side.

All the other rotors with ally carriers sandwich the steel and ally parts together side to side.. Hence they can't float when hot.

Can someone who builds wheels explain why a ding to the sidewall would cause this?

A ding will generally only cause a flat spot in a loose wheel, unless it's a monster whack and pinches the tyre as well

Dents just mean that you're not running scardy-pants tyre pressures!

When you get it back from them ping all the spokes. They should all make about the same note on each side. The ones by the weld are sometimes a little different. if they're all over the place then its a poor build.

er.. none of the others are actually floating… They're riveted on to an aluminium carrier for weight saving.

Pull the cable outer end caps off and trim the snaggly bits from the outers

XT thumbies!

nnnnnnnnnnope

Magic invisible chain and wireless brakes +20

Cool My forks are on back to front, really ought to get them sorted.

See. You were so tempting fate there!
How much did we belittle that guy? "Hey mate, your forks are on back-to-front! May we take a photo?"

Thanks all; Elaine and Rob especially.
BTW Rob.. When am I going to be able to buy that cider? That was yummy stuff.

^What blob said.
What's the problem with it? You shouldn't ever have to replace the freehub, just pawls, springs and bearings. The springs break regularly…

Yay! Some people would say so.. "looks like they've been in an accident" they say…

Can I bring my singlespeed? It's got wonky daft handlebars…

They are a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.

A friend of mines steerer sheared across the SFN. The steel/ally interface had developed some nice bi-metallic corrosion and landed him on his face on his first day in Morzine.
Admittedly it was a few years old, but it wouldn't have happened with a head doctor. I'd happily put a SFN in a steel steerer, but they're a bit iffy in ally…

degreaser tends to destroy any fresh lube you put on the chain afterwards.
Try squirt lube. It's reduced my chain cleaning to rinse-dry-lube-done.

I'll be there. Would be nice to see other people's take on the place and maybe find some new bits.
For the meeting point are you talking about the YHA carpark?

double check the correct eye to eye length of the shock. If it's less than this (by about half the stroke length) then it may have bust it's inner air seal and be stuck down.

29/44 with a 11-34 on the hardtail.
Way too big a gap up front. I'd love for someone to make a 41 tooth in the freaky bolt size it needs. I don't miss the granny though!

Zip ties around a carbon tube? A shiny new carbon tube at that???
Have a word with yourself!

You could probably tie the seat post cable to the brake hose instead.

rear mech hanger bolt.

Also, I tried some slightly heavier oil – 50/50 7.5 and 10 in my mx pros before. Made them much more stable when climbing and at low speed. may be worth a try.

Found it!

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They are a doddle to service. The old seals can be removed with a screwdriver and a rag (to protect the fork legs) and the new ones pressed in with your thumbs or a bit of appropriately sized plastic pipe, although there is a seal press tool. Put some oil on them so they slip in easier.
I did see somewhere that someone had uploaded all the 'zocchi service manuals up to about 2006, but I can't find the link. Al you need to know though is the oil volume.

Have to re-visit this after chasing a creak around someones bike yesterday. I'd literally tried every other bolt in the bike, refitted the BB and headset, checked all the pivot bolts and shock mounts, rebuilt the rear hub, tried another rear wheel.. Cursed and swore at it some more….
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.
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Check the bolt that holds on the rear mech hanger. That's what is creaking. 🙄

Chemistry + Outdoors = Hydrogeologist
You'll need to get a masters, but you'll be niche as ****! I'm going to start a masters next year in this.
Has good pay and travel too.

I would have the rear hub to bits to check each of the bearings. Any that don't feel super smooth are mullered. If it's got a cheapy throwaway freehub body then checking the bolt for that may help.
Just for good measure I'd check the BB bearings are tight and still smooth too.
What wheels and cranks?

BETD have their Goldtec ones for 15 quid at the mo.

yep. will work fine. Glad to help!

yes. It'll have to be for the same length BB as yours though
no. You'll have to loose a link or 2.
yes no maybe… it's not right, but it'll push the chain up and down.
Your shifters might not trim correctly, but there's usually a bodge in there if you can spend the time fiddling with limit screws and mech heights

I'm very happy with it. Now a days I just have to swish my chain in the sink to clean it and then dry it on the radiator or under the grill!!
It doesn't seem to stick to a chain unless it's been utterly completely degreased, but after that the chain seems to drink it. I think it's probably not so good applied straight before riding as the wax has to dry and set.

618s are discontinued. A real shame as they're amazingly strong. I replaced a cracked 517 with a 618 and tried to break it for 5 years. It's still sat in the garage, looking thin but still ridable and round.
I agree with folks that spoke tension caused 517s to break.

ARE YOU MAD? that's like putting 18" super bling alloys on a crappy corsa!

You should see my Polo!
If you looked toward the back end of the field at the weekend you would have seen it…

[Edit] '97 reg mechanical diesel for the win!

Put the spend into some nice rims and spokes. Don't worry too much about the hubs.
355/Crest/717's on the outside and DT supcomp/revolution or Sapim CXray holding them up.
DMR revolver hubs are quite light and cheap and shimano DX freewheels are OK if you keep oiling them

This is bonkers.

For the record though.. Full compliment in frame and headset bearings, caged everywhere else.
Most headsets take 36×45 degree 1 1/8" ACB's which are available in stainless for about £2.50 from your local bearing factor. Just read them off the numbers from your current bearings and they'll supply.
You can get almost anything that's available on ebay for the same price locally. Strange that, isn't it?

Best to hang them from the front wheel if they have disc brakes. Less chance of them un-bleeding themselves.
People may be along to say that it makes no difference, but we comprehensively tested this at a place I used to work where the bikes for repair were stored on hooks.

317s are totally different. much more metal in them!

517s are prone to it. The eyelets start to pull out. I've done it to 2 rims that I've previously bent. It may be that there was a micro crack before you took it in there. Not seen it on any other mavic rims though. Which one was it?

Split pin, wire, twig… Anything will do really

Sounds great! do you have any other classic tracks that you like to listen to?

Yes actually. I typed your theories into a Speak and Spell and recorded the result. I listen to it in the car as it keeps me awake. It sounds like Stephen Hawking which makes it more believable and funnier at the same time.

DT + conti never seems to work that well. just be glad you weren't trying tu use one of their tubeless kits!