I tried keeping the exact same pressures when doing a ghetto job on my SS.. just to satisfy my curiosity. They were knackered old tyres and it definitely bought an "edge" back to them. It could have been a placebo effect, but it felt like an improvement..
I dropped the pressure after that regardless, as that's where most of the extra grip comes from.

Can't imagine what you're referring to there TJ 🙄

Having used the same tyres on a bike both with and without tubes I can tell you it does. It's most noticeable when you really lean the bike over; much less skittery.

yes.. but probably not outers

More grip because the tyre casing is more supple. It takes the same pressure to deform the tyre by a given amount, but less energy, so it conforms better over rough ground.

oh, and to help the OP, I always put the sealant in first and hang the wheel up while inflating.. That way the flat bit at the bottom of the tyre is less likely to be where the air comes out.

Other than that?

Er.. More grip?

Nah, can't see why you would want that…

i've seen the flux, but the rear spoiler thing? does that come off or not?

It's not "removable" but I'm sure you could… I've learnt to get over people's comments on it.

Fox flux. Heavy but brilliant.
I like it coz it's a better fit to the Hex and E2 that I had before. Not quite as good at cooling as the E2 though

Fair enough Emac.. I've never bought SS ones, just DB.
Did you buy them both around the same time though?

I get the feeling that discobrakes and superstar are selling the same product. I fitted some discobrakes elixir pads for a friend that had the same problem of the backing plate being too wide. Also people were moaning about de-lamination of them about the same time.

I remember seeing a link on here to a Russian site where someone had managed it. Was just a matter of pressurising and replacing the seal on the floating piston correctly. Don't have a link though.
They did just charge it with air and not nitrogen but I get a feeling that that isn't as important as it's made out to be. After all, the RS Monarch shocks are only air charged.

Coz they used to be a low volume, niche-core-tastic thing that would cost a relatively high amount per unit to produce. Imagine how many 26" inner tubes are produced worldwide compared to the number of Stan's strips…

Plus, back then they had the market virtually cornered.

Now-a-days there's a lot more options out there, but they look at how they should price, and use the existing (Stans) benchmark as a guide, and despite the fact that Stan's must be selling a gazillion more kits than they used to, they don't drop the price. So nobody else does.

And that is how the bike trade works.

Nice, although the chain looks a little short.
..and as far as I can see by your reflection you seem to be wearing a toga.

pull harder. simples!

Yerp!

Got mine this morning. There's loads left in the Basingstoke one.. Obviously not a unicycling town I guess..

You fill in the entire floor of the rim, edge to edge, but not up the sides. That's why gaffer tape is good as you can tear it off in even strips. That way when the tyre is inflated it's compressing against the tape and has more than just air pressure to hold it in place.

Cut out presta valves work fine with soft rim strips like these, but proper ones are always more secure. It's worth putting double locknuts on the valve to be sure it's going to stay in place.

Not quite the same thing, but I'd been having probs with a Stans 355 rim and a Bonty tyre. It burped a couple of times when new. I put a layer or two of gaffer tape around on top of the yellow tape and it's been fine since.
I'm sure it should work for ghetto, but you'll just have to get the thickness spot on. You should need strong tyre levers to put the tyre on.

HTH!

I've got away before with chopping the end off a cable end cap. Push the wider mushroomed end into a bit of tube attached to a syringe and then wrap a zip tie really tight over the join.

In a word.. no.

The Tao of Physics

I always enjoyed this one.

Or use your brain, takes pics with your mobile, call cops and wait.

I was once in the queue at the supermarket after work, and saw some scrotes trying it on with my bike lock outside. One was sitting on my mates recently stolen on-one.
I dumped my shopping, went out, unlocked my bike and wandered off. I stood a good distance away and called the cops and another mate (bike owners housemate) who I knew worked nearby. A WPC on a bike and my mate on his bike arrived at the same time.
We all rode over and performed a BMX Bandits style arrest! Nice.

Guess what.. Nobody was ever charged.

The spacer that comes with mavics is wider than the 10spd one – you need it for 9spd cassettes too. If it's 10spd then use the wider of the two.
And yep.. It's just a matter of adjusting your mech.

"tyres should never ever be the same colour as the frame. Ever."

That's me buggered then, with a black bike.

Hmm.. a good point well made. I've heard it argued that black is not a colour. Does that help?

Oh, and tyres should never ever be the same colour as the frame. Ever.

Stem and seatpost should match..
Bar and stem should not though.
Saddle and grips should, as should cranks or BB and hubs.
Seatpost clamp should be a complimentary colour and definitely not matching colour to the frame, unless they are both black.

I don't think any of my bikes meet many of these criteria.

From my (limited!) experience avid brakes only work well with the corresponding rotors… Try measuring other rotors. They are very rarely what they say, while Avid ones are literally described.

EDIT.. mind you, if you dumped the wobbly washers and took some space back with some flat ones you could be ok…..

That hole in the side is for unscrewing it if the threads don't let it go easily. Did you screw it in with that? It should just be hand tight…
Maybe heat it up in a saucepan of boiling water and try again.

nope.. won't work. 6/7/8 speed has a different shift pitch than 9 speed.

I think SRAM do 9 speed ones for shim-shimaneego and I think they're also called MRX.. Not sure though!

OOPS!!! Edit.. ignore me please. For the front it is the same, yes. Sorry!

screw it the correct way? it's a left hand thread…

Maybe his telephone number?
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/for-salecannondale-rush-team-carbon-bits-on-it-revised

I repaired a puncture today using a glueless patch

There's yer problem. They never stay put.

908 chain (because they're the best chains ever)

+1

+ squirt lube if you want a full on cleanandhappydrivetraingasm…

Hmm. I may have said too much…

Are you talking about the older ones – with the banjo style connector?
If so then working the banjo bit back and forth with some pliers will walk the bolt out.
If its the straight connector then get going with the molegrips

Put the wheel back in the bike with the cassette locknut off. Put it in the lowest gear. Get a helper to put some pressure on the pedals and hold on the rear brake.
Now use your chain whip to turn (hard) each sprocket in turn backwards. You should feel them slip out of the gouges they made. Then you can take the wheel out again and free each sprocket with a couple of screwdrivers.
This is a little easier if you've got two chain whips to turn against each other.
What cassette where you using?

these people
are good if you need o-rings too.
Sorted me out when I needed bits for my Durins when Magura would only sell me a complete piston assembly for £60+

Yep, coz it's a smaller chamber than the +ve.

Make note of how much it looses on reconnection and then you can tell if it's actually loosing some over time.

Also, always empty the -ve, pump the +ve and then refill the -ve, or you'll get funny things happening.

How about a fork service?

Second that.. What have you got to loose? Spend 7-15 quid on oil and go at it.. It's a learning experience and a lot cheaper than some new forks. At the worst you'll come out with some equally knackered forks and be 15 quid down.

EDIT… Unless they say suntour on the side in which case bin them.

harpoon

A mate has.. was not good. Very over-tensioned, to the point that it was pringled. He sent it back and they re-de-tensioned it but he's still a little sceptical of it's longevity…

If you do go SS just make you go at the back so everyone doesn't have to walk when you get off and push.

If you do go geared just make you go at the back so everyone doesn't have to walk when you get off and push.

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