mustard – Member

Love the work on the Trance, did you do that yersel bikewhisperer?

No no no! That would require me to actually have some skill! Was a gentleman named Rowlie Bellasis. I rebuilt his Rocky Mountain with brand new bits in payment. Argos Cycles did the base colour and clearcoat.

konastoner – i just boffed slightly in my mouth.

I may be opening myself up for a world of pain and derision here, but here's my favourite bit of my scribbled-over (sorry, custom-painted sounds a bit, well, ****) Trance..

It's probably a worn hub body. If the freehub was run without oil for any time the bush would have worn down the face it runs on. There's a guy in the states that sells oversized bushes to cure this. Not sure of his details though.

The bus stop at Peaslake.. An outdoor, not-really cafe where loads of London IT types go to show off their latest carbon/ti/unobtanium dandyhorse…
Where are you all when it rains or gets a bit cold? Mincers.

Very yummy cheese based pastry snacks for those hungover mornings though.

I have a beard. Your argument is invalid.

Mine looks like a singlespeed…

But has secret sturmey!

Did it happen with other shimano hubs?

I've seen other hubs do it – deore and XT ones. Not sure if most were on suspension frames as folks generally just bought the wheels in. Seen some nicely chewed up dropouts because of it though!
I think the thing with the stinkys came about through having the calliper mount on the replacable dropout, which would flex or shift under braking and then work at the locknuts. Probably both ends would loosen, but the drive side one is the one that would walk into the bearings.
Why don't they use a left hand thread on the driveside?

Leave the mech on. Park triple allen key in the bolt and heave.

If you drop a wide topped m5 screw into the axle before you hit it, you won't mushroom it.
I'd remove it by hitting the drive side, so you remove the rotor side bearing and do it all in one go.

trail_rat – Member

"Cup and cone hubs on suspension frames can also self-loosen due to the torque applied from the brake"

You made that up right ?

Nope. I've worked in a couple of Kona dealerships and one hire place. This was a problem with large rotors, flexy dropouts/chainstays and cheapy M4xx series hubs.
The drive side cone locknut would always break loose, causing the cone to wear itself into the bearings. The owners wouldn't notice the extra drag (Kona Stinky riders tend to be a bit like this!~) and so would only bring it in when completely fubared.
This is partly why each of these places decided to drop Kona as they were so cheapskate about the hidden parts on the bike.

My 2p…

Neither are worth having. Get some Shimanos or Hopes. £35 for a bleed kit is bendy-over bum rape, but you will need it at some point in the first 6 months. (the bleed kit that is, not the bum rape..)

I agree with TJ.. The prius is a bit greenwashy. After maybe 15 years and 200k+ miles it might offset the extra production costs and environmental impacts, but how many are likely to see that?
My ideal hybrid would be a small diesel with a flywheel energy storage system. Light, simple and no dirty metal batteries.

A properly adjusted Shimano rear hub will spin much much *very* much smoother than a hope, and the bearings will most probably last longer. Unfortunately they seem to come very badly adjusted from the factory.. Often they're way too tight so that they do tend to fail prematurely. They should be left with a tiny amount of play that the QR takes up.

Cup and cone hubs on suspension frames can also self-loosen due to the torque applied from the brake.. A classic problem with Kona Stinkys etc.
Most people don't do the locknuts up enough either as it's a hassle without an axle vice.

The good thing though is that you can get a complete hub for peanuts and rob all the internals (cups included) for less than their separate prices.

Overall, I like them. I'm really not sure why, but I do.

the summer smash phenomenon is getting worse each year – in 2009 men made 16.4 per cent more claims during the Summer than in any other month

because as we all know, summer only lasts for one month; thus leading to all the summer claims being aggregated.

Spoke holes being 2.5 is fine. it's always bigger than the spoke diameter.
Spoke diameter is usually 2.0/1.8 double butted or something similar.

If you put the pump back on straight after setting the pressure you'll get an idea of how much air it looses on re-attaching.. This will be greater for the -ve air.
Re-set the pressures and ride it. If you re-attach the pump later and it only looses the same amount then it's not leaking. If it is then check the valve cores first.

across the hole with a vernier calliper.

just measured an xc hub in the garage.. 2.6 is your answer. Probs the same for all hope hubs. Doesn't make a real difference to the calculated lengths if it's slightly off anyway

What he said ^

Just got a set of Bontys to replace my warranty Shimangos. I'm muchly impressed. If sizing is an issue they do come in half euro sizes…

If it helps I was a snug 42 in shimano but a reasonable 43 in Bonty.

safe of hands of Halfords

Oh god…

The pantograph (the parallel plates) on an mtb short cage moves at a steeper angle than a road mech. The b-tension screw fine tunes it relative to chain length and big sprocket size but won't make up for that much. MTB mechs similarly don't always work too well with road casettes.

Fraid not. max size is 27 or maybe 28

32/17 or 32/18 in the winter.
Used to be 32/16 but my knees told me off.

Should we organise a North Downs SS extravaganza? Since I tend to be up there on Sundays, how about the next couple? 25th July or 1st August?

My Christ, you Canadians are a pale bunch aren't you? No wonder you have to live under tents when the sun comes out!

Glad you made it! The bit of toothpaste tube is yours to keep 😀

Cheers everyone, esp Brian for the guiding!

Was riding by feel in the end. Will be making some loops around there again I think.

the o-rings could make oil get where it doesn't belong.. i.e into the lower legs or make it bypassing a valve.. I was thinking that a lack of compression damping might be down to lost oil. I got o-rings from ebay when i needed them.
The damper is not a sealed unit, but you can't get parts for it or change anything like the shim stack. Just check the ports are opening and closing properly when you move the adjuster.
It's worth using a torque wrench on the lower bolts too as they're ally and I ham-fistedly snapped one on my Durins!

5 wt.
The lube oil for the lowers is 30 wt.
I've not taken a set of Phaons to bits, but the Durins are really simple inside. Magura don't do small parts, only complete damper assemblies. I'd check that it hasn't got any busted o-rings and the damper valves are moving and closing properly but that's about the only bits to go wrong.

may strip and grease it all …

The freehub is supposed to be filled with oil, not grease. Could that be it?

Don't play the game of seeing which egg explodes last when you put some in the microwave..
Or more specifically, don't be in the blast zone when your numpty friend opens the door.

Spatula.

I have a girly friend who finds it irredeemably funny for some reason.

peajay – Member

Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance

oooh! I was going to say that!

Ooh ooh! me me! Halfway between work and home? Sounds ideal!

Work finishes at 6pm but I could try and chip off early and stand on the throttle to be there for about 6.10.

Winchester and Mid Hants Observer (I think.. sometime back in 2005):

In response to a planning enquiry over a new mobile phone mast…

"New Erection Sparks Mast-Debate"

Can I say "rear mech hanger bolt"?

I keep trying it and one day I'll be right!

4.5

Trance FS, Enigma HT, Kona SS, Lidl unicycle and Claude Butler Frankensturmeyskinnytyredthreespeed.

took part in a game of human jenga.. and survived! It it questionable whether the row below came out unscathed though 🙂

it's the same spline for standard centerlock as the cassette tool, but the standard shimango one doesn't fit coz it needs a deeper and wider space for the axle end..
an oopsy oversight from the great shimango I think…

LIFU/IceToolz on is £5 though!

Alloy nips = hate hate hate!!!

But that easy weight saving can be ohh so seductive!
I think if I was really pushed by someone to use them then I'd only put them on the non drive side rear or non disc side front. They'd still seize after the first washing in road salt, but at least they'd be under lower tension.

BMC (British Mountaineering Council) do travel cover for all sorts of outdoors stuff. You've got to be a BMC member, but that's well spent money anyway.
I claimed off them last year as I'd had a stack on my bike in Oz and killed 2 camera lenses when I landed on them. They let me claim for my helmet too.
I had no problems with them, although you might need to talk to them about bike value and proper crash damage cover.