i am not going to tell you the answer just what you need to know, pi

fail.

Yep.. Do exactly what they say on the tin.
They very usefully put the weights for all the different variations of each tyre too.

No washers. Grease them and do them up very tight (50Nm) OR degrease them and do them up hand tight with bearing retainer compound.

yes

I've been there. In his state, not yours.

If you're going to intervene then let him know. It'll be a difficult conversation but you'll have to tell him that you've called CMHT or his GP because you're worried about him. I really wouldn't anonymously tip off the health service as that gives the impression that someone is scared and notifying as opposed to being a concerned friend and notifying. It'll make a huge difference to him, but it'll get you involved.
If you meet up with him then you would probably be best not trying to address his issues unless he brings them up. He'll want some escape from the torment, so have a good time.
I've been on both ends of the situation and I would definitely say that concern rests with understanding that people should be treated equally regardless of anything else. He'll appreciate that.

BETD are doing 3mm (3/32") non-ramped chainrings for £15 at the moment.

MY EYES !!!!!!!!!!

They've been dubbed the "Tron" shoes at work

Somewhere around 200+ I would guess. It's a real nice part of the job; even so, I turned down a job as a professional wheel-builder as the pay was crap and I think I would have got bored of doing only that.
I've probably fixed/trued/bodged at least 3 thousand though. It's the first thing you need to fix when you're servicing a bike..

I prefer black as blue has a definite green cast and black seems to offer more definition..

However, it may be that your camera is doing weird shit when it sees by a different colour light and adjusting the white balance.

I'm sitting at my desk which is illuminated by a white photo lamp (all I could find for a desk lamp!) so this will also affect it.

[EDIT] Basically what he said! ^

I'd had quite a bit of stiction running lower weight (20wt) oil in the lowers. Its supposed to be 30wt for the lowers officially, although fox float fluid seems to be working very well so far.. and not too expensive if you buy the 8oz bottle.

3/32 chains for geared bikes are bushless chains and they wear quicker.
You can get 3/32 track chains which are the bushed type. These are (possibly) smoother and deffo stronger, and they also work fine with all tensioners, and are lighter than 1/8.

Edit: Like this one: clicky

I'd try two things.. Make sure the cable hasn't slipped and try flushing the ratchet mechanism with GT85 or disc brake cleaner as the ratchet pawl springs do gum up.

Or it could be the stick dangling out the cranks.. maybe it's tripping you up? 😀

You'll have to start moving your weight back more. Ride the back wheel around corners with your arms a bit straighter. If you crouch over the fork coming up to the apex, the rear will extend and…

Also if the rear rebound is too fast compared to the front compression it'll tend to do that a little bit more anyway.

I think I've got one. Drop me a line (email in profile) and I'll have a nose around for it.

Fully fully farmgate! It's a good job you put some reasonable sized tyres on there or it might look a bit ridiculous..
Like it!

You sick f*cker!

Dammit! Would you lot please stop talking about fatbikes? I'm trying to convince myself that there's no need, but you won't let them lie. Yes I know they're slow and pointless and I don't even live near a beach/swamp/glacier but you won't stop talking about them!

And then to throw a 3 speed sturmey into the mix.. Have you no shame???

I guess that's why Campag launched Fulcrum, to offer a budget brand with all the aspects that people want, and a shimano freehub body.
I can understand G3 lacing.. There's more force on the drive side spokes, so why not more spokes.. Either way, they're easier to true than others (Corima, Mavic, bontrager etc…).

[Edit] Sorry Clubber, not wanting to call out any axe grinding! I'm just relating what I've had to fix. The only arse with Campag wheels is getting the right spokes or other bits from JW. I've always found them easy to fix otherwise.

So you've broken a set of wheels and you're upset with them. Why is G3 lacing crap, exactly?
They're cup and cone, which usually winds some people up as it equals maintenance, but I've often come across very old campag hubs that just needed a squirt of grease to get them back in order again.
And as for the heavy thing.. Yes, but they are efficient. i.e. better power transfer by being stifer.

And… I forgot to add:
Campag wheels are the best on the planet. Very reliable and strong.

Campag cranks are waaaaay better than Shimango's system. They're stronger, less prone to loose FH crank arms, and cheap and reliable for BB bearings.
The shifting isn't quite so snappy, but it's solid. "Agricultural" is a good description. The only thing with campag stuff is that apart from cassettes, there's not much point mixing bits from different groupsets… There's little difference in feel unless you replace the whole system.
SRAM stuff works very well and reliably but is delicate (in crashes) and expensive. It's cheap to the manufacturers, but costly to you.

Also once taped don't go straight to tubeless – fit a tyre and tube and then inflate it over night to faltten out the tape

Yes it will if the tape is put on correctly.

There's the odd air bubble here & there…though not sure if that's a problem

That's a problem. You're supposed to key the rim with wet and dry, degrease it, and then pull the tape very tight when applying. There really shouldn't be any bubbles.
The air is probably coming out through a spoke hole, but I'd still give a go at sealing the valve.

I'd guess pedals but you've replaced them so I'd re-torque the bb to be sure. Other options might be the freehub or rear mech hanger bolt.

I've got the original Colossus.
In my shed.

I've used a Medusa 2.0 LUST up front with a trailraker rear, and Mud X front and rear.
Mud X 2.0's are stupidly soft and grippy.. to the point that the edge tread wears out faster than the middle. I've managed to tear the casing a couple of times on the rear though (tubeless). I'd deffo run them as a front tyre again, but would think about a proper UST for the rear.
Medusas aren't quite so good on slimy rooty stuff but generally hold up really well.. Almost as well as the mud x. Having a LUST one means that silly pressures aren't dangerously scary, but they don't have the edge holding that Mud X's do.
I'd rate both over trailrakers for a front tyre, although trailrakers make a brilliant rear if you're happy that they'll be nervous at a high lean angle.

The tape should be cut off to the edge of the hole, not folded down into it. Maybe that's the problem. Otherwise the tape should be tight as a [insert euphemism here] over the holes. It shouldn't have any folds or rucks at all.

Yes, but shhh! Don't tell anyone…

There was a pic on here last week with seatstay mounted SA lever.

Mine! At least it's memorable.

It's an old AW hub. There's plenty available on ebay in 28 and 36 hole versions. A 110mm should work ok if you flex the stays a little. You could always space out the cones a bit, although there's not that much extra room.
The lever and cable are supplied by Raleigh, and I got some new cones from SJS cycles.
Hope that helps!

I once blew my own trumpet…
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.
.
.

.
No, seriously… I can play the trumpet.

If it's an avid then you don't have to worry about the mount or shimming. The bleed is very easy if you follow the instructions… The rotors are made out of extrabendyium though so will need very carefully truing to get through the tiny clearance.. That's the part that takes patience. It's not at all hard, but is easier with a solid workstand and a well lit workshop.

What length stem do you currently have? You could probably loose some length in that, say 20mm and then you've got the same overall length as a 19".

I don't want the mounts facing, re shimming, the pistons lubing, or the rotors truing or any of the other stuff though?

Most people think their brakes need bleeding when the root cause is all this other stuff. If you think everything else is perfect, to you sir, £15 per end. If it still feels squishy because the mount is on the piss and one piston doesn't move, tough…

(Woah.. big edit you did there!) It's never so simple as just a bleed.

Most brakes aren't set up right in the first place… Or are just plain knackered. That's why most shops would charge this amount.
If they need a bleed then they often also need the mount facing and re-shimming (if they're IS mount) the pistons cleaning, freeing, lubing and centering. The rotors need to be straightened and all the bolts re-torqued.
TBH £20 per end is not anywhere near profitable, but happy folks with stoppy brakes come back.

Nope.. We'll remember this forever!

You can always tell one that's beyond straightening as the surface on the bent bit takes on a rippled pattern.

10 speed road casettes come with a 1mm spacer that sits behind them on the freehub.. **** only knows why…
Prob the MTB ones don't need that spacer, but still have the same spacing from one sprocket to the next.

Fox flux

what he said

I landed on a D100 with a 70-300 lens attached to it last year. Proper half somersault and landed on my head then back.. Cracked my helmet, popped the camelback bladder and got concussion.

I bent the lens but the body was fine. My body hurt for a few day though…

Nokian, schwalbe, continental…

No, but I'm sure you could ghetto them.