3 joysticks? You’d look like this on the trail..

Why cant you inflate them?

pumping technique.

Now if only I could ad an extra 40mm on those Mary bars of mine.. Hmm…
I think I’ll give ODI a call about this one…

Mary bars have transformed my singlespud.. Extra torque on the bars without needing extra width, and happier shoulders after long rides. Even so, the stance you’re put in makes you want them to be a tiny bit wider.

I swapped to them from some panaracer pasellas which had been awesome in the wet.. only to find that the gatorskins were a little bit shit.

I think he’s right though!
I remember that Giant did make a mount that does just that, and that looks like it. I spoke to them the other day about it and the numpty on the phone didn’t seem to know anything about it..
I may need a little bit of working to fit all calliper bodies though.
If you take a punt please let me know if it works!

utterly, massively on the piss. Send it back for a warranty.

no spacers.
if there’s a tiny amount of play I’d check the cups are tight in the frame, otherwise it’s new bb time.

Finish line does ok.
Also, there’s some thin shims inside them you can remove to take out any play that’s developed if they’re really old.

I’d go with bollox.

I’d also tell him to find out the depth of the thread with a long m6 bolt and cut to length so he’s using all of the remaining thread possible, and use some loctite.

Actually, no. I’d go back and berate them on their careless mi-interpretation of statistical data.

(Sorry TJ! 😀 )

If I heard a scream-crunch-thud behind me, I’d just keep on riding…

Head injuries when performing household tasks such as cooking and washing – 2194

Head injuries from cycling – 62

Head injuries in cars 1476

I think if you corrected these stats for the number of person-hours in the UK for which they were performed they would tell a different tale. There’s certainly a reporting bias too.. car crashes will almost always be reported, whereas I don’t drop rospa a line whenever I break my helmet.
If you could collect valid statistics about trail centre accidents only then they might support an argument. The ones above simply aren’t relevant to the OP’s statement.

EDIT – and for the record, people can do what they want.. I wouldn’t choose to go riding with someone who didn’t wear a helmet though.

m10x1.0 threaded bar. It should match the threads of most shimano rear hub bits.. just cut it to need.

middleburn – make a 104bcd 30 tooth. not sure about the ramping though.. phone them!

Haha, haha, hahaha; Thump.

Oh, that must have been my inferior balance that just made me fall off my chair.

whom.

Amen too. I accept your scepticism! It’s a slightly strange thing to get your head around. It might help to know that a very small volume change in the system from the pistons distorting would cause a large volume change in the system from the piston body… Hence the relative “vacuum” when the pistons retract.

Night!

Are you a spam robot?

Wait, so with a theoretically uncompressable seal, the brakes wouldn’t work…?

Blimey, they say you learn something everyday.

I only learnt it after talking to the importers about shitty Hayes HFX-9’s! Apparently the sticky piston is the one that doesn’t keep moving outward..

Interesting, does this work with Avid Juicy brakes?

It’s what they recommend. Take the wheel out and squeeze the lever halfway

Alright, calm down! It’s got nothing to do with spokes, superposition or anything like that.

There’s more than just one force acting on the system than your finger or the return spring. The seals acting upon the piston offer some friction and deformation against the piston. If they didn’t the system wouldn’t be able to self adjust.
As you said it’s a closed system once you’ve moved the lever a couple of mil. This is true irrespective of whether the pistons have adjusted or not. If the pistons just moved back and forth against a non elastic seal then they would never self adjust.
The adjustment comes because the piston seals grab the piston on the extremes of pressure or motion (forward and back) and allow some elasticity into the system to draw more fluid in when it’s open.

With regard to what I said, I should have made it clearer. The master cylinder spring does most of the work, but some is done by the deformed seal. When there’s a few thousand psi in the system the wet side of the seal is under the same pressure as the piston and deforms to move too. The bore is smooth but still lets the pressure through. That kind of pressure will cause the seal to deform and stick to the piston under deformation and draw it back as it relaxes. It’ll still have some friction against the piston when the master cylinder opens up, and if it’s moved at all (due to a differential in back-pressure compared to normal movement) then the elasticity of the seal will allow it to move out and draw more fluid through.

TJ is correct. It’s the same reason why Bananaworld’s fix works.
The piston glides against the seal, but with increasing back-pressure from the rotor equalling the pressure pushing it outward as well it grabs the piston and deforms, pulling the piston and pad away when you release. When there’s pad wear to be taken up then there’s no back-pressure so it just slides.
Isn’t it nice that we all agree? 😉

Standard.

The wheels themselves don’t come with the necessaries to make them tubeless. The ones we’ve sold at work have just come with a few spare spokes. They ought to make this clear in their advertising though!
You’ll need the 25mm Stans yellow tape and some valves. The instructions for fitting the tape are on the Stans website.

Spacer = bad
chopping down the ETA lever until you’ve got just enough to work with = good
The ETA controls are smooth and easy to turn, so I’d go with a *ahem* tiny knob.

Thanks folks!
Was just going to start a thread on this.
Any others out there? I’m trying to mount a relatively heavy P7 torch on a Fox Flux.

None in Basingstoke. 🙁

Wrong and wrong.

I’ve used 10 speed chains on 9 speed triples and doubles for a couple of years without any problems whatsoever.

I’ve tried it on a few people’s road setups as they’ve been trying to save money when upgrading and it didn’t work at all. It may be different on MTB setups due to more aggressive shift ramps but I’ve never tried it.

That might be your freehub bearings or pawls gummed up.

10 spd chains are narrower by the virtue of having thinner plates at the sides. 9spd will work fine for a single ring setup, just not for multiples.

HTH!

It’s either taken a bash and isn’t straight so is binding at the top, or it’s just gummed up with crunge.
I’d flush it with gt85 and work it by hand for a bit

mememememe!!

mailed you

Glad to help!… Sorry, got caught up in making dinner.
Chuck some grease in them once or twice a year and they’ll last for ever.

I mean the collar that screws the axle assembly into the pedal with a 19 or 20mm spanner

Wind the axle assembly out. try it both ways as one is a LH thread (I think…). Clean it as you go as you don’t want any crap to fall in there. Half fill the body with grease and re-assemble it, spinning the axle as you wind the assembly back in. Wipe off all the gunk that has been extruded.

It must tick some boxes..
Now with bigger gearing and a rack!

with a gore ride-on cable set.. £40 and they’re yours.

Avids require longer bolts for their spherical washers.

As James said:
I would mark the spot of worst deflection, loosen all the spokes in the wheel a quarter or half turn and then gently (!) stand/bounce on it either side of the buckle to push the rim back to straight. Tweak it (ie. stand on it) until it’s as straight as poss and then it should be truable by adding back in some tension.
Sometimes they pringle more easily by being too tight in the first place.
If it all goes tits up then re-using the spokes is fine. I rebuilt the wheel on the front of my singlespeed after it was 10 years old using the same spokes.

what do I win?

a million!

So if the Sun’s diameter is 100x the Earth’s, it’s 50x the radius, so 50^3 times the volume, or 125,000 times larger.

That makes the Sun’s radius 50x the diameter of the earth or 100x the radius.. so still 100^3