Was just about to suggest one I’d done before.. But the website seems thin on details. The post about it says 9th May, but when I did it was in July. 9th May is also a Friday, so no sense in that being the date..?
Here:
http://armycyclingunion.co.uk/are-you-tough-enough-for-enduro/%5B/url%5D

If He’s on a twist-and-go jobber, then he’s the scourge of the cycle ways.. Pay him no heed.
Pedal-assist is OK in my book though. The old guys who are actually turning their legs always seem happier, and seem to have a smile for everyone else.

You could always avoid a fashion faux pas, and just buy black ones…

Just be a man and pull the freehub off. A siezed bearing will knacker the axle by spinning on it, but as said, if you can work them free and squirt some stuff into them then they’ll last the day out.

Not a surprise. They’ve been undercut heavily by the big discounters.

Don’t push the original pin all the way out and you can use that. PowerLinks are weaker than normal pins IME.

Don’t do this. The riveting on the end of the pin has already broken off.

I’d leave a normal link inbetween the powerlinks.. Dunno why, but if I’ve done that then that’s what I’ve done. :)

How the hell are a finance company going to repossess a frameset from out of the rest of a bike if you stop paying them?

Everyone’s asking what’s wrong with SFN’s..?

It’s a pretty rare example, but a mate sheared his steerer through the nut when he cased a jump, and his stem broke off. Reason was a huge build up of corrosion around the nut, and the fact that he’d just cased a jump… hard enough to send the stanchions slightly banana shaped!

He’d used it for loads of winters getting around on the roads. Loads of commute bikes end up with very crusty SFNs. You see it when you replace a lot of headsets on them. I like Head Doctors for that reason.. Alu steerer, alu expander, no corrosion problem. No worries if it’s a steel steerer though.

Not me. He’s just a pretender! :wink:

It’s a powerdrive splined interface. Should come off with a standard sq taper puller. If it’s been worked loose before then that might be the creak. Try degreasing it, and using some bearing seating compound – Loctite 641 or similar. Check the bb and rings are tight too.

Have patched a couple of Maxxis LUST tyres down by the bead with just normal (but the thicker ones) puncture patches. They lasted till they wore out.
Have used dynema kite cord on bigger holes at the tread, with a big patch behind. Again, happy days!

Trail rat, you’re right.. It’s surface tension, not viscosity. Teach me for not thinking while I type!

The lever moves around half a ml of fluid though.. Far less than the volume of the hose. Pushing the pistons out loads doesn’t make huge odds on this.

So, what stops all the fluid pouring out of the master cylinder when the hose is out? Air pressure?

Viscosity!

You’ll let a tiny amount of air into the system, but if you lightly tickle the lever for a bit after doing it then you’ll send it into the reservoir.. Put your ear to the master cylinder and you’ll hear when the slurping stops. Get a small bottle of oil, and a bleeding funnel and you can remove that bubble without having to bleed the whole brake.

A tenner for 250ml? It’s cheaper than a few shots of Sambuca!

I’m more used to dealing with the road wheels, but I’m not surprised that they do the same silly stuff on the mountain bike ones. Decent replacement ones will be about £8 each from simplybearings. Don’t forget that the inner freehub one will have a circlip holding it in.. It can be a ballache to get that one back into place, even with the right sized drift.

@tmb467.. I over tighten the cap a bit to make sure everything is snugged down, then slacken it off and just gently close it down before doing the bolts. There’s a couple of o-rings in the crank ends.. They just need to be half squished.

50/50 float fluid and 5wt.. Added advantage of only ever needing 2 types of oil!

Just nip it up til there’s no float in the cranks then tighten the pinch bolts and loosen the end cap a quarter turn

Don’t bother loosening it afterwards. It won’t make any difference once the bolts are done up. Quite right with regards to the end cap otherwise though

Get your frame faced, if you haven’t already, and get some cheap Rose XTR in your life.
Fulcrum tend to use 6902 (or is it 6903?) bearings which aren’t the best for longevity.. They sometimes pick out the inner seals on the freehub and main hub bearings to make them roll smoother. Possibly the most arsetardedly stupid thing I’ve ever seen done.

Flipside:

I once worked with an extremely dumb colleague who would use his own phone and price matching app to help customers get the best price rape our profits.. This was under the reign of a fairly new manager who’d managed to put our sales up by 50%, and profits down by 50%.
Thank god I was only on a temporary contract. That place was batshit crazy.

I’ve fitted my commute bike with flats. It’s quite easy to slip into poor technique when clipped in.

Assuming it’s a top swing model, and it’s less than about 8 years old, it’ll have a small spring on the back topmost linkage to stop this. Maybe that’s dislodged or broken.
Conventional types don’t have this problem as the cable pulls any slop tight.

Archetypes are heavvvy.. Buy my Pacenti CL-25s!
420g each. Tubeless ready. No max pressure. Still in the wrappers. £105.
I’d run minimum 28mm tyres on them, but you haven’t rolled properly until you’ve rolled on 28s!

That’s shoddy. It must have creaked like a bastard when they were winding it up.

Wot he said ^

crap sealant, grease the threads, treat the cores as disposable, and only nip them up.

I’ve just started using joes eco sealant.. No latex and ammonia. Will see how it lasts in the tyres, but I’ve pulled a thorn out already and it did it’s job without a fuss.

My favourite method is to go back in time, and put some grease on :D

If you’ve got one cut, then try another at 90ish degrees to that, and then chisel in the smaller portion. It’ll be easier to remove the last 3/4 then

Alpkit.. Comes with iron on patches, which are useful when you explode a bottle of beer inside while falling off when drunk..

Have a 20l as a bike bag and summer commute bag, and a 25l for when more kit/shopping/beer is required.

Sometimes there’s clear glycol seeping out of old punctures, which isn’t a problem, but you shouldn’t see white sealant after a short time. It can help the sealant if you clean the wax off the tyre before first fitting, with hot water, a stiff brush and some soap. Dunno otherwise. check the valve isn’t leaking in a sink of water?

I went for the Joe’s stuff as I presumed latex and ammonia free would last longer and degrade the rubber less, but will have to look back in a while. It did say it’d seal bigger holes than the standard stuff, but I’d like to see before shouting about that.

When did you last top up the sealant? Stans tends to coagulate the fibery bits into a blob that rolls around in the tyre after a while. I wouldn’t blame the tyres necessarily.. I’ve tried loads of different sealants with mixed success. Some blob up, like Stans. Others dry to a film in 2-3 months. Some of the others just don’t seal big holes.

Just started using Joes Eco Sealant. It worked fine the other day when I pulled a thorn out. Will see if it stays liquid.. Am hoping that it’ll have a longer life in the tyre.

Tubeless ready will be more prone to bigger tear holes due to the thinner skin, but either should seal as well with most sealants.

There’s got to be a way of bolting down the tool to the bb axle. Even if you have to get a shallower tool or a longer bolt and a wide washer. Then dribble some lube down the seat tube, leave overnight in a warm place and get the scaff bar on the adjustable or bench vice it. The most important thing is not to wreck the splines.. The other most important thing is to turn it the right way!

Just run what you brung… It isn’t going to change your life as much as you think it might. You’ll still have to press some buttons to pedal at a different speed.

It’s probably the 48t chainring’s fault. Try dropping the mech down a bit, but it’s probably just the fact that the ring doesn’t have very good shifting ramps.

I have a friend who’s on about his 4th or 5th Boardman FS, all under warranty, all cracked around pivots. I wouldn’t worry too much about whether they’ll replace it, but I’d think about flogging the replacement frame..

****. I’ll have a puncture on it next week now I’ve said that.

The Specialized commuter tyres are draggy as ****. Low thread count and a thick puncture band make them that way. Stick with 28s but get something racier. You’ll notice the speed difference, but still have the comfort.

I’ve got a Conti Grand Prix and a Michelin Dynamic sport on either end of my commuter bike. Both seem good, but had no punctures on the conti.

Any decent LBS should have the bits to do this. I wouldn’t buy the bits just to do one, and it’s worth getting it done by someone who’s experienced, or you might get a slightly off-axis helicoil.. Where are you based?

Why not just use this?:
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-cs-m770-9-speed-16-tooth-replacement-sprocket/aid:483923

the internal width of 9 and 10 speed chains is the same, it’s the spacing and chain plate width that differs. If it helps, I just grabbed a 990 cassette, and the 15t on that is 1.84mm wide.
Don’t know what it would do to the shifting, but if you’re going to bodge your casette, then bodge it proper!

Would suggest a broken spring, or less likely a cracked axle.

I had to fix a couple of bikes that had been driven through a low flying pheasant. Dried on pheasant goop is very very sticky.
I’ve written off a couple more that met carparks, so no, you’re not alone.

I just got a new set of these out of stock:

Simple pleasures.. Best crimping tool ever!

They’re usually adjusted too tight from the factory these days. If you deal with that when they’re new (leaving a tiny fraction of play when they’re not clamped in the bike), and put some more grease in, especially on the drive side rear, then they do stay good. The sealing on the rear driveside is dependant on freehub wear. I’ve got a M965 rear hub which was still clean inside after 5 years and loads of gritty winter riding, but the freehub is starting to sound a little grumbly so I’ll only wait 2 years before looking inside this time.. They do roll well though.. This “cup and cone does roll better” thing isn’t just marketing bs.