I should have some. drop me a line.

290 and 292 will be fine. If you get all 292s there’s a chance they will bind. Make sure they all twang evenly!

The bog roll sits on it’s side atop the shelf handily provided by the bog roll holder.
The holder has some springy plastic spindle thing, but I’m not sure what it’s for..

If you are happy spending the money and are competing, then why not get a set of race wheels? Something like some Hope pro 3SP on Stans rims with some tubeless racing ralphs.
Keep the other wheels for beating up and training on, and then when you put the others on at race time (or rather practice time as you’ll need to scrub in the brake pads and get used to the tyres), you’ll immediately feel the pound or so in weight loss.. Hey presto.. Huge psychological boost!
Will be the best part of £500 though. There’s cheaper solutions in the grips, rotors, tubeless etc..

I’n not keen on steel frames, like trying to wrestle with a wriggly snake and i’ve had a few over the years.

But that’s my point.. Cheap, expensive, material? I had an old (2003) inbred and it was like trying to stir jelly when going uphill. I stuck a load of luggage on it and rode halfway round New Zealand on it, and could watch the front triangle flex and wobble on the climbs. my Columbus tubed Enigma climbs just as well as my old Klein Attitude, although that was hard work after a couple of hours.

I think even the comparison of two identically specced bikes from the same manufacturer isn’t a valid one.
Your average Ti frame will have double butted main tubes and straight gauge rear stays.. This is just a cost measure, as butting just the main tubes requires less machine time etc than doing all of them but gives a bigger weight saving. The more you spend, the more they can take away, and the more they can manipulate tube shapes for stiffness or springiness.
Most (decent) steel frames will have all the tubes double or triple butted. It depends entirely on the cost and frame material, but there will be a world of difference between a £200 steel frame and a £800-1000 steel frame, along with a big difference in ride feel and a good pound in weight. The same applies with Ti.
You could compare cheap steel with expensive Ti and say “OMG WOW!” or start with some decent tubed steel and compare it with average-joe Ti find the difference not so great.
I still *want* a Ti frame, but after having a decent Columbus tubed steel frame, it would have to be really bloody good to be betterer.

If you’re pressurising the syringe then air can’t get drawn in anyway. If the bleed nipple is open too far then pumping the lever could overcome the surface tension and suck air in on return, but I don’t think the o-ring would stop it in that case.
Try bleeding from the top while cracking the bleed nipple just enough so that a hard squeeze on the lever forces fluid through, then close it before releasing the lever.

EDIT – I like the PTFE tape idea.. Will try that next time!

Not on mine, and it doesn’t do anything anyway. It’s there on others and AFAIK it’s just to keep grit out of the thread.

no worries.. I’m being pedantic anyway!
You can bodge-fit an e-type bb using a HT2 spacer (preferably an ally one), but they have a tendency to work themselves loose.

No idea where that number rings.

that might be the sales no, but they can put you through to customer care.

why not call them?
0870 034 7226

er.. no they don’t. the last 3-4mm or so by the flange is un-threaded and the drive side flange is offset to the right by about the same amount.

There will be a breather to allow the diaphragm (basically a rubber bag around the master cylinder) to expand and contract. It’s also possible that the diaphragm has a hole in it, or that it’s no longer sealing where the master cylinder goes in at the lever end.

Scored master cylinder bore? I’ve sent a couple of sets back under warranty for the same thing, and they replaced the lever body.

If it’s like the one we had at work, it’ll only centre up on front or rear wheels.. if you calibrate it for a 100mm width, the jaws will be out for 135 and vice versa.
If the rim moves over when you flip it, then it has to be mis-dished. If it’s miscalibrated then the error will be the same regardless.

I’m a wheel geek. What can I say?

I’m not a fan of Jagwire cables. The sleeves are very stiff and the inner/wire/outer sections of the sleeve become detached very easily, leaving the wires poking out. This has been a massive problem with all the Trek Madones I’ve had to deal with this year.

Mavic ones seem to fit all. Stan’s aren’t UST, but are tubeless. The difference being that the UST stamp is handed out by a lab in Belgium whereas anyone can label something tubeless or tubeless-ready.

I don’t care if this is old, I almost gave my screen a peppering of half chewed sandwich!

The XTR sealed end caps are the same as the sp-41 ones, apart from the ally one that goes into the rear mech. The cables are much better though and the sleeves are pre-greased.
Wiping cables down with some gt-85 before installing them removes a LOT of grey crap from them. The difference when you install them is very noticeable.
Gore ones are nice too, but costly..

Hmm.. interesting. I just found that the wire to the solenoid from the main engine plug had wandered down toward the fan. The sleeve is shredded, but the 2 wires inside are OK looking. will chop that section out and put a chock block in and take it for a drive. Will stick a multimeter on the wires and see if it’s getting intermittent current too.

Still no tunes though 😥

Cheers. Will have a look see after lunch.
It did seem to be idling a little slow last night, so I guess that could be restricted fuel. It did restart fine by lifting the clutch while still rolling though.
I did notice a few times recently that the stereo was not cutting out when the starter motor was turning over.. Hence why I suspect a relay.

These allow a presta valve to be clamped to the tape or the back of the innertube with a lockring. I’ve used them fine with Eclipse rim strips they should work fine with conventional ghetto setups too. I used 2 lockrings to keep them secure.

I had to get another charger for them.. That’s how I noticed!
I would doubt the ones that claim more than 3000mAh anyway. You’d have to be a right geek to measure the capacity..
(Cue geeks saying they’ve got a graph to show us…)

I saw on here a while ago that someone was doing kits. The adapters are a standard thing but I’m not sure what you’d call them!

It is a standard based on dimensions. They just don’t always stick to it!
The 3000mAh cells I’ve got are a few mil longer than the 2400mAh.

Avid fittings don’t fit all Formula brakes. They’ve got a wider shoulder on the adapter. Formula’s should fit Avid’s though.

The higher mAh ones are often physically longer. I think they have a little lump of circuitry at one end. They may not fit in your charger.

I imagine the max pressures are to do with the shorter shoulders on the rim. They want to be sure that any loose tyres aren’t going to pop off.
The other possibility is that the side walls are weaker – they are very light so the material must come off somewhere, although I would think shorter rim sholders + thinner side walls = just as strong, but don’t quote me on that!
Tubeless vs tubed shouldn’t make any difference though.

Weirdly, this:

I’m looking to make an adapter to allow this to fit to my old Hope XC front hubs.. Different bearings and a sleeve to support the inner races and it’ll be as good as bolt through, without buying new hubs or forks. Email me if interested.

possibly the cable sleeves? take the cable out and pull the end caps off the sleeves. If there’s wires poking out then trim them back with a decent set of cable cutters. Flush the inside of the sleeves with GT85 and re-assemble. All should hopefully be peachy then.

I’ve not used either, but do have a Nikon 18-200 VR. Going from a non-VR lens previously I’ve been amazed at how it pretty much eliminates camera shake. VR all the way!
Any chance you could save up for an 18-200 VR and sell the 18-55?

Mavic and Hope do shims that sit behind your rotors to sort out the spacing. Be prepared for lots of fiddling and wheel swapping to get it working though..

Yep. Unless you chuck new oil in the lowers very regularly, they fuk up bad. Often they come from the factory without enough oil in the lowers.

Yep. Endura overshoes last about 1.5 winters, so would be a few years before they’re more expensive than boots.

The oil is on the stanchion so I presume it’s the wiper seal? If they’re the same as Fox ones then that’s simple isn’t it?

Exactly the same, unless they’re dumping masses of oil in which case you need new seals. 5ml of 30wt in each leg, and clean and soak the foam rings in the same.

jenson have them, but i’m a bit put off by the import tax and lack of warranty

Worldwide warranty, or so Fishers told me.

UK importers are a bit crap.. I asked for o-rings for the air piston on some Durins, they said “They’re just o-rings aren’t they? We can sell you a complete piston assembly.”

Where are they leaking oil from?

Edit: Ich kann acuch Deutsch sprechen, ob dass hilft?

The sizing is spot on accurate, if you’ve actually been measured in a euro size. They’re not wide though, and only leave room for thin socks! You’re likely to go up a size if you want to use them with thick ones.

+2 for Cornish Yarg!

It survives in the fridge for about 20 minutes when I’m around.