Used to go Winchester – Reading for my first year of uni..
The train is OK, so long as you don’t have to change at Amazingstoke.. The local one from there is cramped, small and annoyingly slow.
Driving isn’t so bad, but can be a bit slow though and out Blazingstoke. It’s slightly better getting in to Reading now that they’ve sorted out the M4 junction, but still rubbish if you’ve got to get right into the centre.

sv – Well it worked for me! I bought one straight away, just in case they stopped being £129!

bike shed?

I just got a pompino frame.. and glad I looked twice.
The same frame was £129 on one page, £169 on another… at the same time.. 🙄
They also had a scratched one going cheap.. £199 down to £149!

I asked them a couple of times to get back to me with a realistic price for the scratched one. They never did, so I thought fup them, I’ll get the other bits for the build from CRC and ebay.

The aporkalypse…

No worries!

I have the same problem with a steel frame.. Was a poorly made prototype and every seatpost I’ve tried either creaks or slips. That double clamp would be great for me if it was 28.6/27.2…

I’ve clamped the seatpost at the insert point with a 28.6 seatclamp and some front mech shims.. It buts up against the real seatpost clamp and stops it dropping. Seems to work for the moment, but also going to try a 400mm post for more inset and less torque on the clamp

EDIT: they do a nicer looking one too:
here

Bosh!

There is this..

You’re welcome! 😀

On some Maguras the bleed nipple is the same thread as the hose fiting, so you can daisy chain them together. This should work with HS33 rim brakes, but you would have a lot of lever travel, or a system very sensitive to wheel wobble

Had a Kaffenback with flat bars and those dinky cane creek bar-ends It was brill. Great for off-roading, so much so that I often left the mountain bike at home for hacking round Hampshire trails. I rode it to Cornwall once.. Was very comfortable too, and handled well with weight.
I sold it to a mate when I went abroad, and regretted it, so I’m going to get me a Pompino frame and fork for my current roadie and make a freako 3 speed version of it.

Edit: Don’t know if they’ve changed at all, but there was limited clearance for big tyres to the seat tube.. Hence why a Pomp with track ends seems to be a good choice..

Yup. Threadlocker is king. Don’t lean on them with threadlock though, or you’ll strip them when removing them…

Next bottle of sealant I’m getting will be CaffeLatex for that reason.. Apparently it’s pH neutral, so is kinder to tyres and rims (and hands??)

Sun Ringle make Stan’s rims. Most Sun rims are silly light, and I’ve seen the eyelets pull out of them too.

Generally only if it’s been overtightened, or took a big whack and was pulled straight (also overtightened really!)

Was it built by Superstar?

Bah.. 3am here and I’m doing my homework.. Advanced Groundwater Modelling (EAT010) – Practical 1 – Groundwater Demonstration Model.

Darcy’s law and sand tank experiments, anyone?

Should have handed it in last Thursday, so gotta get it done!

Yep.. That’s about the only thing they grip on.. Not dry or wet.

They don’t have any bite to their edge.. They’ll slide out as soon as they’re leant over the tiniest amount. That was running them tubeless too. They roll OK though, but that’s about all they’ve got going for them. I think the only tyre I’ve come across that’s almost as bad as a Richey z-max!

They’re crap in mud.. and in the dry for that matter!

and I’m certain you’re not 🙂

I’ve got a Nikon D100 body you can have for around £100 if you’re interested?
2 batteries, charger, and 2 1GB Cf cards included.
You’re welcome to make me an offer by email!

I used a similar amount to help get me through uni. I was 27 when I started, but I knew I didn’t want to be a bike mechanic forever!
It didn’t get me a job, so now I’ve borrowed another 10 grand to do an MSc in Hydrogeology.. Right now I’m procrastinating on here, and not doing my homework…
2-3 year’s time I plan to be working somewhere else in the world, sorting out water for people who need it.

So it rubs off then, in *ahem* mucky conditions?

Rockshox warranty is worldwide. Fishers will should with it, provided you have proof of purchase etc. I know this counts for forks.. so I assume seatposts as well.

I’m gonna go out on a limb here and say Giant MPH 🙂

Just build it and then try it out.. If it aint right then change it!
I’ve seen some Rolson cutters online for about 6 quid.. Better than park ones and a fraction of the price.
Get some threadlock for brake related bolts too.
and the front mech is the only thing that’s not obvious how to fit. The rest is easy 🙂

Cheers! I’d found my happy place with 32/17, so was thinking that if 33/17 turned out too low, then going to 33/16 would be a cheaper way of changing it rather than buying another expensive chainring.. Shall just man up and get me a 34.
Do you know when they’ll be available? They’re not on the site yet.

Nice one! I was going to get me a rotor ring. My old shop have started doing them, but this might be cheaper than trade.

I was going to ask this anyway though, if I’m currently on a 32/17 do I want a 33 or 34? Was thinking 33..

Fitting full, traditional wrap around mudguards is the most hateful job in the world. That and child seats.
Oh, and brake pads on grimy commuter bikes. You know that the wheels will be buckled; you’ll find a broken spoke and the cones will be loose. All the time you spend looking at the bike as you’re fitting the pads, you’ll find all sorts of shit wrong with it that the tight fisted **** that bought it in wouldn’t want to pay for, even if they could be made to understand why it’s wrong.
I’ve been working in a shop in London all summer, and I now hate all other peoples bikes.
Glad I got that off my chest. Thanks STW!

I soaked the foam rings on my Rebas in Fox float fluid, and mixed a little in with the oil for the lowers. They do seem more supple, but that could be all in my head!

Ah.. Brings back heady memories of drifting round Tasmania in a Britz Hiace campervan.. Boy can those things slide 🙂

Then you just replace the side that’s worn out. The most costly part of the BB should be the bearing, not the shell it sits in. It makes me wonder why the price of hope bearings is less than half the total cost of the BB.
TBH, I’ve never really believed the hype surrounding expensive BBs. I’ve had very good life from an XTR one – 2 drivetrains worth, and only feeling a little grumbly now.. Mediocre life from an FSA ceramic one – one drivetrain, and rough as hell, and apalling life from a Wheels Manufacturing one – one slightly wet singlespeed race. I’ve used secondhand XT bb’s (the non worn out sides from shop replacements!) on my singlespeed, which tend to last about 8-10 months or so..
I would only buy a Hope or similar if I knew it was going to outlast an XTR by more than the premium it costs.

Why would you want to? The entire BB costs less than one Hope bearing! 🙂

Rose Bikes for cheapy XTR ones. You can buy 4 for the price of a hope one! Oh, and like them on facebook for a tenner off..
Get the frame faced and don’t over-tighten the preload and they last for ages.

Love it when I can answer a long shot.. makes me feel all special!

I’ve got a pre-production sample Enigma.. It’s Columbus tubing, but welded, not fillet brazed. It’s probably the same shape as an Ego, but can’t be sure. Either way, it’s a lovely bike.. Climbs really stiffly, but has a certain twang when going downhill on rougher stuff; it’s much more stable than the Klein it replaced. Goes like shit anyway, and was comfortable as I could want when I did the SDW on it.
I pulled out the travel spacer on my Reba’s to see how it handles at 120mm, and I’m going to put it right back where it was…
It’s a bit too choppy with 120mm; it makes it messy at low speeds, and the front becomes too unweighted and light on steep climbs. I’ve found a 10mm travel adjuster at work so was pondering if 110mm might be the answer. I’ll prob just put it back to 100 though.
Hope that helps!

They’re the instructions for the ’11 deus crankset.. But the turbines *should* be the same system.
AFAIK, all x-type cranks are adjusted for play with those little spacers, and getting the spacer bit wrong is half the reason why the bb’s don’t last..

I broke the clamp on my magura one about 2 years ago.. The zip ties are still holding up nicely 🙂

http://raceface.com/instructions/CRANKS/DeusXC’04-’07_XTYPE-Crankset.pdf
installation instructions..

Look in the last box of the “troubleshooting” table for what to do to fix them

Hey Andy, remember me telling you about trucking Dan around on a recumbent tandem that I’d just serviced? Was one of these: Hase Pino
It had an adapter to fit an extra set of cranks as close up as needed.. A really nicely designed and made bike; and it looks like an imperial speeder!
Be sitting down when you look at the price list though..
See you riding tomorrow!

Yup.. Not the most efficient pedaller out there, but very good downhill. Even better with 120mm forks.

You can do this with HS-33s.. I’ve seen it on an adapted bike.. Just daisy chain them together by replacing the bleed valve with another hose! There’s no simple way of biasing them though, but the ones closer to the lever move first, and you have to set them up very close to the rims.

Giant bikes I’ve put together have come with it.. I guess not all though in that case. I’ve got one! 🙂