I got a new set of 2.0s just before xmas. First ride out, I pinched a hole in the front one. I’d had issues with the last set I owned too.. Multiple patches on the rear one by the time I’d worn it out. It’s a shame as they grip and roll really well. Just have to put up with running higher pressures than I’d prefer.

was thinking of going over and doing whites level later also. Looking at the weather it’ll clear earlier from Afan than Cwmcarn..

That’s gonna leave a flat spot on the tyres! ppprp!

Ooh.. That’s Jacob’s Ladder! I always wanted to release a box of bouncy balls at the top of them..
I’ve done them on crutches with 3 big bags of shopping!

or there

But you can’t qualify any other point as more the centre of the universe than here

The universe is a hypersphere.. think of a sphere, but with every point on the outside edge being joined up to it’s opposite point on the sphere. So it’s got size, but no edges. It’s like that because gravity bends it that way.
In a sense, you are at the centre of the universe. How does that make you feel?

whoops! my bad.. Usually they change the number if they make a change like that.. I thought they’d be 771 for 10spd..

Can’t help then. I’ve got some 770 9spd ones and they’re grand. I doubt there’s much difference 770-780 in use. Both will be really dependable, so I’d save the £22.

£22 = 1 extra gear!

I’ve got a couple of Gobis.. One old, one new. I actually prefer the old one. It is on a full suss, not a hardtail, so this might help!
I’ve also got a couple of Bontrager seats which I prefer over either of the Gobis. They cost a load less and aren’t as nicer construction, but have more room to move around on.

If the yellow tape is lifting up, then it’s probably coz it’s not tight enough. When you put it on you’ve got to sand the rim, degrease it and then haul like hell on the tape as you put it in place.
Mud x’s have always worked fine for me.. I’ve got a history of wrecking them on the rear wheel though.

EDIT: What njee said!

Genesis Flyer is something odd on the rear hub spacing. 130 or 135… Not 120 anyway.
I just got an on-one pompino.. Heavy, cheap, klunky, stiff as a board and lots of fun. Also going to have a sturmey 3spd hub when I get round to servicing it.

EDIT.. actually, looking at it, the flyer might be 120.. They did do one that was 135 ss/fixed before.

Ebay for some Campag square taper ones. You should be able to get some with a 42 ring that’ll work fine.
You’ll need and ISO bottom bracket, although you can use a Shimano one at a pinch. Miche Primato are good and cheap. I think for most chainlines, a 107mm axle will suit. You can tweak the chainline with those BBs anyway.

The cutting into steerer tubes thing was specific to a fork/headset type (1.5inch I think) and as far as I know has been resolved. And I would hardly say ‘dogged by runours’.

Nope. Definite problem on 1 1/8″. Usually with longer travel forks. As far as I know it’s sorted with the split ring upgrade.. Even though they never admitted it was a problem, and not the reason for the upgrade at all.. oh no!

I always reckoned that part of the reason for CK headsets lasting so long was because of the rubber ring loading system.. It should spread the load around the bearings more, at the cost of some movement.

I sew them, then superglue the gap so the threads can’t unravel and put a normal puncture patch on the inside. Never quite understood why tubeless patches cost so much.

Yup I think once in every umpteen if they don’t lay up the threads right, with some residual tension or overlap, they just do this.

I’ve got a Larsen TT that does the same. Take it back and swap it, or just live with it.

Mine was surprisingly cheap and “brand new” off the classifieds here… Funny that!

We often had the red light police hanging around the lights outside where I was working this summer… Best spectator sport ever!

There was one particularly chubby one.. Poor lad.. Didn’t stand a chance! Half the RLJs would hear the whistle and the shout, take one look at him and stand up and gun it.. He’d start to make the move to go, but then slump back down, all dejected that he knew it wasn’t going to happen.. awww!

and continuing the nautical theme:

Das Boot

it’s just that people then leave the tie in place.. and sure enough the seal that side knackers up first, or better still the stanchion gets scored. I’ve always just looked at the muck mark

and the rear light not pointing horizontal.. and the zip tie on the fork stanchion

What upsets my OCD, TJ, is that computer cable… dangling in the wind.

somebody posted a link to these the other day:
problem solvers
You can get some plastic p-clips that will replace the bb guide. they have a hole for an m5 bolt, same size as the guide bolt.

Nice work!!

And look at his feedback profile:

refuses to sell what a waste of time another ebay time waster dont b next Buyer: g-g-autos ( 148) 26-Nov-11 23:36
cube fritzz bike xt hope boxxer.cove kone giant orange (#260897941610) £725.00 View Item

If only they knew…

32:17 FTW!
although I am now waiting on a 34 tooth elliptical ring from BETD..

I tried putting fluid on top of the piston on my Durins for the same reason.. It eventually makes it’s way down past the piston.. The 5ml you’re supposed to put in for lubrication always disappears anyway!
I think on my mate’s it was a plastic or foam block that they’d put in there.

edit.. and you’ll have to start again with the rebound adjustment. afaik, there’s not even click stops on the older ones.

A friend of mine had exactly the same prob on his. He sent them to Magura UK, and they put something in on top of the air piston to reduce the volume.

Take the tyre off and scrub it inside with soapy water. The mould release agent stops the latex wetting the rubber and doing it’s job properly. Doing this makes tubeless ready tyres stay up quicker.. but as above, if it’s UST then it should stay up by itself.

I’d guess no:
COSHH statement

Hi Waderider. I’ve probably fitted as many sets as you have. There’s some single wall rims that they’ll never fully seat on, and some where the thickness of the rim strip will make enough difference.
The ones in the pic aren’t seated. The reflective bit is usually off round, but not that far.

If you look at the rim with the tyre off, it’s deeper in the middle and higher at the sides, where the bead of the tyre normally sits. It’s deeper in the middle to give you enough room to stretch the tyre over, and higher on the sides so that the tyre sits snug.. The high bit at the side is what I’m calling the shelf. On some rims the shelf is slightly too high so certain tyres that are a bit on the small side won’t stretch into place.
All around the rim is a plastic strip – the rimstrip. This covers the spoke holes. A thinner one could give the tyre more room, or a narrower one wouldn’t have to cover up to the edges.. only over the holes.
~Hope that helps!

I would put money on it being made by formula

I have no desire to make my singlespeed rigid.. It does have some rather mediocre forks tho.

They may never seat properly on those rims. They’re an absolute arse on cheaper rims.. The shelf is too high under the bead.
Try using a narrower rimstrip that doesn’t overlap the shelf for the bead.. A couple of layers of gaffer tape maybe. Get some soapy water in there to lubricate them and over inflate them a bit to force them to seat.

The **** up thing is… that’s not the original front wheel; so they’ve ALREADY had that stolen at least once.

I spent the summer working in a bike shop in London.. and it has to be said: There’s some right dunces there!

Yr front mech is set up too high maybe?

3rd day back on my way into work, after spending a year and a half away..
150m down the road I slipped going over a wooden bridge.. my hand sent into the railing as I went down, and stopped me dead. Result: 2 very broken metacarpals, and another month off work.

You’ll probably see their business model move to one that concentrates on repairs and servicing rather than selling huge numbers of bikes.

This.

I see bike shops going the way of car franchises.. ie. heavily integrated and supported brand concept stores, with the LBS becoming more of your local garage. Those that survive with anything like good sales business will be the specialists, or the big chains.

I sometimes have to get into Reading Uni, that can add 15 mins + as its a nightmare up the Shinfield Road since they swapped the mini roundabout for lights.

Classic bit of “What were they thinking???” town planning in a Reading stylie.

Continental won’t want to do anything.

What I do with tubeless tyres is sew it, then superglue the threads so they can’t unravel and then put a puncture patch in the inside.