..and equally as appetising

They look like they’re just begging to be breaded and deep fried! Spam however…

chain oil for the singlespeeds, in a blend with all my old fork oil..

It’s like the spam of the sea!

My mate bought a horrendously over-tensioned square wheel from them so I just don’t buy stuff from them. I almost did the other day, but discobrakes were cheaper!

like!

I still reckon that thick-ass grabby rimtape that you had on in the pic will be the biggest problem with tight tyres. Some proper yellow tape will be thinner and give a smoother transition from the channel of the rim up to the shoulders.
Also, if you go then tubeless, putting on tyres with a tyre lever ceases to be a problem!

EDIT: and fit the tape properly– key the surface, degrease, and really damn tight! This may of course not fix the probs with these tyres, but at least the rims will be set up as they should be..

did you put that tag aracer? I miss not being able to tag any more.. 😥

OP. Price match them if you have to buy from them. Evans are the pinata of the UK bike trade. It’s not worth getting wound up over!

That was bonkers.. Mind you, I had to point out that none of my bikes are named, but my car is called Larry. Who’s bonkers now, hmm?

You do realise ‘that is one brake system’, hope brakes used to be and maybe still are awful for brake draggers hence the snooker ball pistons to help, they do boil fluid compared to other systems.

Shimano and avid sorted boiling brakes years ago with two very different braking fluid. Magura to have it sorted from word go.

If you look closely at any Shimano piston from the last 8 years or so, it’s got a phenolic insert which holds the pad away from the metal piston.. The only brake I ever managed to boil was an old Deore which was pre this design.

C2 pistons used to have fins on the inside to dump heat from the pads and piston into the fluid!

I read that article before.. The guy has some good points to make. It’s not as if he was using anything too unusual or doing anything that out of the ordinary. He won’t be the last person so build something up that’s got no mass in the rotors to dump heat into, and then drag his brakes so that they overheat. There’ll be a lawsuit or two thrown about and then some new warning labels on new bikes before it becomes common knowledge amongst roadies about how to brake properly.

LX ones were £2.99 a piece at CRC. Nowt wrong with them. Not ceramic bushed ones like XT though.

If there’s a headwind forecasted, pick another day.

Or just get on the train and do it the other way around!

Straighten the hanger first. your lbs have a tool for this. You might find that that’s all it is. If the mech is bent then it’ll likely only be the cage, and you can remove that to straighten it.

Like Njee, I’d blame the rim tape. Get some yellow tape, and follow the instructions to put it on properly. Silicon spray can work well for getting tyres to pop into place.

Binary solo!

That hose routing doesn’t look too bad. At least there’s a plastic insert so you can hook the hose end out as you feed it through. Having seen some mind-bogglingly stupid solutions to internal brake and gear cables, I’d welcome hydro + Di2.

As CP says, there’ll be a proper leap forward in road wheel technology now. Overall weights won’t drop, but I’d expect to see some fancy-pants rim-tyre systems with supposedly 20% more everything!

wwaswas has it spot on. I did it on a nice light steel hardtail with a carbon post and 100mm forks. If it’s dry get some fast rolling tyres on, if it’s not then wait until it’s dry! Flints can be a problem cutting thin tyres, but I got away fine on some Bontrager Joneses. It’s worth taking something to act as a tyre boot just in case. I had a chopped open toothpaste tube.

I do what Al does. Works fine! You just tighten the valve down against the tape. It depends on the valve shape as to whether it gets a good seal. It’s sometimes worth using 2 lockrings to keep the valves in place too.

Any Shimano ones are good. usually much better at staying true than Avids. They feel stiffer when you lean on them. Hope floaters are very good too.

Straightening rotors is a black art. A sturdy bike stand and a well lit room will help, and one of these:

EDIT: Snap!! Shouldn’t wait so long before posting…

ooh.. can I have another?

Mate vommed on first climb 😀

stream crossing now sadly missed

give the guy a break!
If “checking” a new pivot bolt means nipping it up slightly, then you shouldn’t do that. If it was threadlocked in, then you won’t be able to check the torque without undoing it, cleaning it and re-assembling it with a torque wrench and fresh threadlock.
I’m not sure of the legalities in this case, so I’m not going to speculate, but I’d want at least a new swingarm out of it.

some bikes (specialized for one) are designed for it, and the cable stops stick out more so the cables won’t touch the tube. Some aren’t, so they don’t, so they do.
Also, they sometimes have a right way and a wrong way of crossing over.. The BB guide might stick out further for one cable than the other so they don’t put tension on each other.

+1, and the spring clips and part of the backing plate, and has made a bit of a mess of my rotors too. I was braking fewer than 5 times a lap, so not really sure how it happened.

Yup. It was doomed from the start. Luckily the monkey was sated before he got all the way through the backing plate and ate my pistons for pudding. My shiny new Goldtec wonky ring isn’t so shiny now either 🙁

Black Park on Sun.. Sintered rear and organic front. The cheeky monkey ate them both! It’s not even as if I used my brakes either.

no pics, but taking my new 34t winky wonky wobbly goldtec ring to the black park race tomorrow.. They’re good aint they?

Off to black park tomorrow to try a bit of singlespeed racing in the pissing rain.. Have upped the gearage, as I’ve been informed that there’s no hills.

Your dropouts will be fine on the floor. I’d be more nervous about scratching the steerer in a vice! A few layers of card or a block of softwood will protect the paint though.

And as above, I much prefer head doctors for alu steerers. Less brutal, and less chance of bimetallic corrosion.

3 cross is the only way to go. If I were spunking that much on hubs and rims though, I’d get some Sapim CX-rays or DT super comp to finish the job properly.

third that!

It’s a 1986 AW. I rebuilt it recently with new cones and used fox float fluid (all I had! car gear oil would do too) to lube the gears, but marine grease on the bearings. It flies! It was barely worn in though before, so I reckon I’ve still got another few hundred miles to wear it in properly.
You have to get used to the big jumps in the gears though.. Just like singlespeeding, it’s never quite right, but never quite wrong.

Just for balance like, here’s all the forks and shocks I’ve owned and how they went wrong:

RS Indy C: blew up damper jumping off steps.
Marz z2 x-fly: slipped glide ring made them sticky. Never failed since fixed.
Marz mx pro: never went wrong.
Magura Durin: shipped with dry lowers and siezed, lower legs recalled, air o-ring failed. Now running RS seals!
Marz mz comp: prev owner had run the air piston leg dry. scored stanchions but fixed.
RS reba race: moco cart replaced under warranty
RS reba comp: never went wrong
DT swiss HVR200: damper piston mis-machined so rebound didn’t close properly. fixed under warranty.

Things go wrong sometimes. You’ll notice though that the list doesn’t contain anything made by Fox!

MTB: was 32/17, but I’ve now been wonkified with a goldtec oval chainring, so 34/17. Might try 34/16 for black park this weekend, at there’s rumours that it’s flat as a pancake!

Road bike: was 42/16 but now it’s a 3 speed with 42/17 middle. Went out on my first ever group ride yesterday, and didn’t get to use gear 1.. 🙁

Can we all club together to lend Realman the cash to repay Jimmy? If he’s genuine, we all will get paid back, if he’s a crook, then we each only get low exposure to the debt.

I’ll start with a fiver. What’s your paypal Realman?

The way I read the OP is that the first half is a long winded excuse as to why he mis-represented the brakes, and the second half as saying that he’s not talking to Jimmy any more until he apologises.

The cause of this whole affair is the mis-representation of the brakes. Anything subsequent doesn’t change that.

You know how it’s going to end up at this rate…

I just deleted my search history and paused the recording from Google.. Seems a sensible thing to do as it’ll preserve it from bias.

I just put some Carnegies risers on the hardtail. Likey very much. It was a bit noodley before, but not any longer! Considering some carbon ones for the Trance, and I’m a long time Mary (ab)user on the singlespeed.

Don’t Salsa do some that are similar?

(4) Not ridden fast enough that they splash the puddles.

If you fall in, don’t wriggle around. It’ll only initiate liquefaction.. Try and get yourself on your back, and use your arms to paddle yourself to solid ground.

A good tip I got was to squirt some GT85 onto a rag and squeeze the cable through it a few times before fitting it.. A load of grey gunk will come off the cable and it’ll feel nice and slippery when it’s installed as it’ll soak some of the lube up.
I usually put a dab of grease under the end caps to keep water out.