Should I be claiming for a replacement rim and wheel build ?

Yes

All this talk about it, so I decided to actually try and fix it.. Result is that an cheap redbullalike can is actually about 0.1mm thick, and the (undersized controltech) seatpost is now snug. Will see if it holds up at the weekend.

You can spend that 99p on a refreshing drink now Bigsi!

Check it out! The cheapy-own-brand-redbull-alike can fits! Measured my supposedly 27.2 post to be about 27.0andalittlebit, and my frame to actually be about 27.2andabit, and the can to be 0.1-0.12.
Will have a go on it at the weekend and see if it’s now quiet without hauling on the clamp bolt.

Have a look here, was talking about this earlier:
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/seatpost-slip-problems

I reckon I’m going to have to get some of that 0.1mm shim, and start selling strips of it on here for 99p posted!

I think you captured the mood beautifully.
Well done!

Don’t forget to report it to the police, as her insurers will really start being twunts if they realise you haven’t.

Stop pedalling, bike stops skids. What could be quicker than that!

Fixed (boom tish!) it for you

Rebas! On-one are doing some cheap, but you’ll probably find deals elsewhere too.

Top one looks like an overpriced piece of tat. The bottom one should ride nice, but would benefit from some compact bars and decent brake levers.

EDIT: Which the current Kona Paddy Waggon seems to have!
EDIT2: You couldn’t put an alfine on it too easily.. They’re 135mm, and the frame will be 120. You could get a sturmey archer hub in there ok though!

I had a look at them perthmtb. Carboncycles also do one:
here
But nobody does one for 27.2/29.8 which is the common size for steel seattubes.
TBH, I think it’s more of a sizing issue in my case than how hard I can squeeze it. (fnar fnar!) And TBH, I don’t want to buy another Thomson just to get a 27.4 as getting a Ti or carbon 27.2 post in with a thin shim would be much more comfy.

I’ve got a redbull can sat on the side waiting to be cut up and had a go with.. Only I get the feeling that it’ll probably be a little thick. Shame they don’t make steel drinks cans any more, or they would be ideal. Next stop is this:
Shim in a can!

I have the same, and I’ve snapped a hope clamp doing it up too tight, used carbon paste etc etc.. Does it move a bit side to side with the clamp undone? And does it creak when its done up?
I did stop it slipping by using a seatclamp and some front mech shims on the post for a bit, but that dented the Thomson post! I’ve swapped to a longer post and a nukeproof clamp, but it still creaks and creeps, but much less so.
Next stop (when I finally get around to it!) is to get some 0.1mm steel engineering shim in there. Last try will be to get a 27.4mm Thomson post.
Hope that helps!

They’re not as strong as juicys, but you’ll get amazing pad life out of them in comparison, and they won’t need bleeding every 3 weeks..
I’d get 180mm front and rear (183 front if they’re post mount) and some decent organic/kevlar pads (Kevlar ones from DiscoBrakes are cheap for 4 sets) and see how they are then. Otherwise, just flog them on the classifieds and get some Shimanos. By the time you’ve paid for pads/rotors/adapters you’ll be quids in for some newer brakes anyway.
They always feel a bit wooden, and not as sharp as newer brakes, but they are indestructible!

The link only recommends them for Alpha rims. AFAIK, They’ve only been doing Alphas since after Paligap have become the importers. I may be wrong though, so won’t be offended to be corrected!
I can see the sense in it though, although only really for aly nips, and even then the weight of an aly nip and a copper washer probably isn’t far off a brass nip, but with none of the durability.
In any case, if we’re willy waving, I’ve built hundreds of wheels too, and repaired thousands more, and I’ve only seen spoke washers on a couple of really obscure branded wheels.

If you get a blue and gold glittery one, then yes, you are special!

Ahh.. The old Stan’s Sprites! Throw it over your shoulder and make a wish!

Poor show. Have you tried switching it off and on again? 🙂

Have a look at the link on my prev post ES. Its not Merlin, but Stan’s who say so. Nipple washers are sometimes used on road wheels that employ hidden nipples. They’re not that common though.

Absolutely! Ten spuds are in the packet and ready to go. What’s your address?
It won’t change your life having SLX vs XT. My approach has always been to get the cheaper, trash it, and then get the more expensive if I think it’s cheapness was the reason it failed.

If the crank bolt is coming loose, then the spline on the drive side crank is probably knackered.
Apart from that, you do need spacers to take up the spare length on the axle.

10spd has a different cable pull, so get a new mech and you’ll be fine. Your 9spd mech will be sufficient payment for this advice. Please email me for delivery details 🙂

The difference is only about 0.2mm, so depends on the model and BB. TBH, when my cranks need it, I’ll probably just sandpaper them!

yup. megaexo is ever so slightly larger on the drive side bearing, for no reason whatsoever other than they would like to lock you into their replacement BBs. I’ve got a set that I’m going to get turned down to the right size, but for the moment an occasional dolloping of grease seems to keep the BB alive.

oh yeah.. it’s on my link too.. word for word!
I’d try and get use of a tension meter if you can then. Don’t use it with inflated tyres though.

edit: the washers would probably help with binding when winding them up more.. Especially with alloy nips. That’s probably the reason for the recommendation.

I’m totally wrong.. Here’s the answer:
http://www.notubes.com/literature/ztr_rim_specifications.pdf
No mention of nipple washers. They’re not a bad idea though, just might not give a huge benefit in terms of spreading the load on the rim.

Yup.. It was me being a numpty and thinking that the other Mavic tool we had would be the right one!

I don’t believe that 2x tension claim though. AFAIK, the older Stans rims would take 800N and the newer ones 1000N. I’ll have a look for the specs on the website.

I’ve never repaired a stans rimmed wheel that did have nipple washers.. Where did they get that info from?

And FWIW, you *do* buy 819s and then realise that you need the eyelet tool…

Had it when I was 20 in the middle of summer.. Nasty! I remember the lady coming into the shop with her pram dwelling, grissling, spotty little disease vector of a child too. Grr..

Calamine lotion and several lukewarm showers in the day seemed to be the only solution. Still have a couple of craters in my forehead and scalp from scratching though.

5 days or so. It’s a fiver for delivery, so worth stocking up on a couple. Got a set of their own brand bib shorts for £15 too last time.. Really good!

Yup. Just the same as it is to get XTR from Rose bikes for peanuts.

My personal favourite are the idiots in the middle lane who speed up as you try to pass them.

Have you ever tried the “passive aggressive wingman” approach? It’s great fun.. You pull up to just behind them in the slow lane, so you’re clearly visible in their LH wing mirror, match speeds, and then gradually step it up but keep your position relative to them. In their confusion over being potentially undertaken, you can often get an extra 20mph out of them before they realise that they’re the problem and pull in.. Or they just get the huff and speed off! It needs a clear motorway, but it can liven up those long journeys..

No doubt somebody will be along shortly to tell me that this is reckless and dangerous etc etc..

Try compressing the fork while you turn the nut.
Suntour internals are made from brie though, so no surprise if it still spins!

possibly a bent tooth on a chainring.
I’d always rejoin a chain with a powerlink, or a new pin with shimano. It’s not worth the bother of it breaking again.

You’ll learn a lot more about how to ride a bike properly on an Anthem than on a 140mm skillz cushion.

It’ll take 120mm forks at a later date if you find yourself using it for more play than race, and it’s very upgradable. Then, if it starts to get too expensive for day to day trashing, get yourself a singlespeed and refine your skillz some more!

damn.. no fooling you!
Did all your new bearings come out of the same packet? If you have odd ones in there then they can be miss-sized.
new cones are cheap.. bout £3 each. You can get a whole hub for peanuts though.

Did you drop the 18th bearing back into the body of the hub? It won’t work properly unless you do that.

get it repaired?
At least put some pix up so we can tut and suck through our teeth..

Yup. the chain wears out the rings, not the other way around. get a chain checker and a bulk load of cheap chains

It was a bit of a mystery round the workshop until I worked it out..

tomatoevousparlour has it right..

Its for adjusting the preload on the front bearings, although typically they always came overtightened from the factory and destroyed themselves pretty quick sharpish.

aerobie
first aid kit
mud
de-icer
tyre-weld
bungees (the boot seems to be the bungee’s natural habitat..)
The cheapest oil I can find for my slowly but dependably oil breathing engine.