The same pattern in different sizes can behave quite differently.. They might just have decided that they work better the other way round.

This is basically a problem with the geometry of the hanger. Mech hanger geometry can be very random, and usually the reason for things like this not working..

It’s a combination of the distance of the m10 bolt hole down from the axle, the offset of that hole from the centre line of the bike, and the angle that the tab for the B screw. As long as the hanger is straight (check it and correct it in 2 planes, not just up and down) and the cable is defiinitely running free, then there’s a few things to try:

1. For the distance of the bolt hole to the axle, I’d try a replacement upper link, like a goatlink. The cheap extension listed above might be too long and floppy and cause other issues.

2. For the offset of the bolt hole from the centre of the bike, try putting a 1-3 mm of M10 washers under the mech mounting bolt. This might give the lever arm enough room to swing, and additionally gets the pulley moved further away from the sprocket on the 50t. This is a really neat trick!

3. If the lever is fouling because the B screw can’t come out enough to let the lever clear the cassette, then filing the tab on the hanger can help. Probably not in this case as you’ll need the screw in for pulley clearance. It can increase the distance from the axle to the lower link bolt though, which is what you need.

I’ve used the preload trick on a few old mechs on skinny steel frames. It’s useful if the mech won’t go into the outer most sprocket, but might not make much of a difference otherwise.

Bin the original cable, and put in a Shimano Sil-Tec or better, and some SP-41 outer and sealed end caps. It’s probably more that than the spring. If it’s one of the SRAM plastic coated cables, it’ll shed the coating and bunch to a stop at some point anyway.

If that doesn’t work, then a trick to increasing the spring preload is to add a couple of mm of M10 washers under the mech mounting bolt. You might have to notch them to clear the B-tab. This works well if the hanger is narrow.

“gives a more on / off feel with shorter lever travel”

It does give a more on/off feel, but it doesn’t affect the lever travel that much, and doesn’t make the free stroke any different. I swapped the rear on my road bike for a BH-90, but left the front as a BH-59. This seems to be a nice combo as it cancels out the difference in flex from different hose lengths.

If you want true screwdriver bullshit then have a look at a new type Campag rear mech.. They’ve put both Pozi and Philips adjustment screws on the same mech. No words. Utter wtf.

Put a ruler up against the side of the rotor.. Hamfisted adjustment can make them go conical sometimes. That won’t be the main thing, but might not be helping.

That’s some seriously squiffy welding though. I’d definitely take it somewhere with an IS facing tool but I’d be wary of removing too much from the front hole. There’s not a huge amount of metal there. Normally you’d face them both to the same depth, but I’d remove just enough from the front to clear the adapter, and just enough from the rear to flatten the hole, and then put shims in between the rear mount and adapter.

Lower the tension evenly bit by bit, or you may do bad stuff to the rim.

Mark the rim as to which side is which: you might have to do another half radial build if the spoke holes are angled fore/aft for that. I’d avoid doing a half radial otherwise, as they’re horrible things.

If the mount point has been welded together a bit wide then you might find it doesn’t close down on the top hat properly. Find out the torque for the bolt and undo it. If it wobbles side to side when loose, and this doesn’t disappear when correctly torqued, then you could shim the sides of the top hat, or maybe push for a warranty.

A Shimano E fit isn’t the same. I’ve got a spare SRAM one.. X9 maybe? I’ll dig it out. I swapped to an X0 on my Banshee thinking I’d save weight.. Ended up as about 3g in end.. Do’h!

Edit.. Not reading other posts properly.. E2 isn’t the same as E fit?

I’ve had some that have been a bit ghosty, and some that have been spot on. The jockey wheels on Shimano are generally more durable too.

If the transfer port is blocked, you might find that pumping up the fork to max pressure and knocking the wheel against the floor could blast it out.

The top tube is a poor guide when the seat angle might not be the same. Look up the stack and reach for both. I’d err towards smaller provided the seat post isn’t going to be silly long, and provided you can get the stem stacked high enough.

That hanger is definitely bent.

5700 mechs and 4700/4703 shifters don’t work together. You’ll need a 4700 rear mech, and a 4703 front mech.

You could have gone 11-34 with the 4700 mech, and saved the need for the triple.

No worries! Epoxy would work in an alu cup. Sanding would work on an alu cup, but only if it’s much thicker than what you’re removing.. I’d tend towards filling in that case.

Bearing seating compound would also work, but not be quite as impact resistant as epoxy.. Loctite 6xx or similar is meant for gaps up to 0.1mm, but if you use it with an activatior spray it’ll go a bit bigger. The problem with that is that it’ll set hard with the activator before you have time to get the headset together. It may also be harder to remove the bearing later as it bonds to the metal. Hence why using the very thin coat of grease on the bearing with epoxy. It’ll form the shape, but hopefully prevent bonding.

Bodgers R us indeed! :)

These guys have a 51.8x40x8 45 degree:

here

Could be made to work if the bore is a bit over. I take it it’s going into a carbon bore on the frame, rather than an alu cup? If so then some very careful sanding would get you there.

They also have a 51x40x7. If you put a *very* slightly greasy (as in wiped off) bearing in to the bore with some toughened epoxy at the sides, and assemble the headset before it dries (and rotate the bars a bit to ensure it’s squared) then it’ll sit where it wants to be and should still be fairly easy to remove when you need to. Degrease the frame a lot first, and the epoxy should stay put permanently

Neither of these are good for your frame warranty (but this is PX, so meh), and the first is obviously a bit more drastic… Up to you if you think the material is thick enough.

14 and 12mm have the same thread dimensions, at least for Sapim spokes, so they wouldn’t make a difference. 16mm have 2mm more thread.

For the op’s wheel it should be fine. The telltale is how far through the current nipples the spokes are. If they’re flush or under the top of the heads, they should be fine. If they’re protruding at all then they could bind towards the end. I’ve got some round 1mm nipple washers which cure that. Pm me if you need some.

…or 74.2 +-0.1mm, depending on who you ask

A quick google digs out this:

So the hole centres should be 74.17mm +-0.1mm apart.
Another potential issue is if the holes aren’t drilled straight into the mount. The bolts need to be put half in without the caliper in place to see if they’re perpendicular to the face of the mount.
If you want the hassle of warrantying it then it sounds like a reasonable claim. Bearing in mind though, the labour won’t be covered after this time and that’ll be as much as the caliper that you could file..

I’ve got some 2016 MRP Stage, new in a box if you want a tartier pair. Would be £520 plus postage.

Check the seatpost with a vernier.. Many 27.2s are actually only about 27.05. You might only need to ream out ~0.1mm.

would have thought that the OD of the tube would be more than 28.6. It’s alu isn’t it?

I like silver spokes with black nipples. Looks mean. Might be worth building with comps on the drive side rear for a bit more stiffness. Depends on spoke count and your weight. Personally, I’d use Sapim equivalents.

MRP Stage. Really capable forks with proper service intervals, and a doddle to set up with the ramp control.. I’ve got a brand new set of 2016 ones in a box if you’re after.

I think you might have swapped the compression ring and the crown race for each other..?

My VW Vento TDI did something very similar to this and it was found to be a warped head in the end. It was blowing out coolant from the expansion tank on motorway runs. It didn’t fail a cylinder pressure test, and didn’t end up with any emulsified oil.

I think it was down to a blocked injector causing a hotspot. It still wasn’t running quite right after the head was back on, so the injectors went away for a clean and pop test. It was good again after that. If the OP’s car was second hand then it may have been fed supermarket fuel it’s whole life, and never had any injector cleaner through it. I hadn’t been using any cleaners (injector or turbo) in mine before, but do now. If nothing else, they make the car go like stink for a tank full of fuel!

Give my mate Ryan at Ryan Builds Wheels a shout. He can custom cut up to 310mm and usually has straight pull Sapims in stock:

http://www.ryanbuildswheels.co.uk/%5B/url%5D

Glad to help!

If there’s already broken spokes, then the tension will be all over the place, as the adjacent spokes will have to accommodate.

If you’re anywhere near Reading, I could rebuild them if you’d like.

That’s a very stiff rim, so would still end up roundish even with really uneven spoke tension. If some spokes are over-tensioned then they could fail quickly. All the drive side ones need to ping the same note. It’s worth having a go with a tension meter too. The other thing is to relieve the bend in the spokes coming out from the flange while building, so that they draw a straight line to the rim. Otherwise they will flex and fatigue.
Worth trying some stronger DB spokes? DT Alpine or Sapim D-Light? These are thicker at the j bend.

Edit:

where they rub the flange holes of the hub

That’s most likely a problem with them not being bent to a straight line while building.

^^Oh, and what Brack said.. Be very familiar with your camera, and don’t try anything with it on the day that you haven’t done before. The second one I did, I **** up the film speed by forgetting a +2 was set on the exposure dial and had to get a few films push-processed.

I said yes to one.. By 10 years later, I’d said yes to 5 more. All friends and family. I enjoyed doing them, but they were all a bit stressful.. Remember if you’re part of the crowd, that by the time you want to put the camera down and party, a professional photographer would be done and gone. You’ll have met everyone there by then, so have fun.

The last one grew in grandeur until it ended up being conducted in a cathedral. There was no way I was going to be held responsible for that! I suggested they get a pro for the formal stuff (and they turned out to know one anyway) and that I take some social shots for facebook. Being the FB photographer was much less stress and much more fun.. Just smile at people, say hi and snap a couple of shots and you’re bound to get people looking nice. Then you’ll not be noticed so much, and get some relaxed looking guests. Those photos turned out to be far more fun, and suddenly I was everyone’s favourite profile pic photographer. Much more fun.

They’d probably have to discount them when they do sell them later.. So ask if your price can be the discounted one.

What thisisnotaspoon said up there.. Hope Pro hubs just aren’t as reliable as old XC or Bulb ones. I’m waiting for some spokes to turn up today so I can rebuild my XC Ti bodied rear.. Guess what the front hub is? XT! I was trying to get hold of a cheap XTR rear, but the Hope became free from another bike.

XT and Hope isn’t really a like for like comparison. The XTR rear I got in 2008, I ran it in for a few rides. Then I serviced it and replaced the balls with 10 grade chrome steel ones, and adjusted it properly (i.e. ever so slightly loose). I opened it up 5 years later, after loads of use, especially in wet weather, and it was still clean and shiny inside. A pro 2 would have been through 2-3 sets of bearings easily by then. My Hope XC ran for 8 years before needing bearings.

If I were in your shoes, I’d get the XT, service it properly when new, and if you ever find the freehub to be grumbly, just buy another donor hub.

I’d take a bike. Definitely take a bike. :D

Don’t know how well those Velocity rims would stand up to dings.. Doesn’t say they’re welded, so I’d assume not. Maybe Pacenti 28mm ones as an alternative? They might not be any better though.

If they’re 29″, I’d deffo build them with a proper SS hub. When I swapped my old 26″ wheel (Mavic 618 [which is bomber stiff in itself] on XT) to a screw on wheel with wide flanges (717 disc on an on-one hub) the bike felt heaps better, especially on gurny thrutchy climbs.

There’ll be a bit of a scrape mark from it’s insertion anyway.
Take the stem off and see if the top cap will bottom out on the bare steerer.

No reason for Middleburn to be JIS, but I don’t know what they use. Same with Royce. Phone them and see?

JIS and ISO use the same taper, but with ISO finishing at a narrower point, so what you say sounds right for the Royce BB to be JIS. ISO is becoming fairly uncommon. Even Italian companies like Miche are switching to JIS for track cranks, so they can get cheaper far eastern parts.. Campag still use ISO though.

Mix and match does work, sort of, for both ways though as long as the crank bolts don’t bottom out.

Damn.. Put the front in the basket, got all excited and then… Ballsacks!

Try it with the clutch on or off.. If it’s hugely different then the clutch can be cleaned and adjusted.

Also, pull the end caps off the sleeves. If there’s loads of wire sticking out the sleeves then take the cable out and trim them off. If you’re going to use the same cable again, then give it a pull through an oily rag. Loads of black gunk should come off. I’d blame the shifters last in this case.. They’re usually very reliable.

Nah. 172 would be right by conventional wisdom. There’s some schools of thought that much shorter is correct, but I’m the same height as you and found 170s odd.

With the overlap, you start to accommodate for it anyway after a while. If you feel it happening, in a trackstand or a tricky slow corner, then sometimes lifting your heel will drop the toe enough to clear the wheel. And sometimes not…

I was just wondering that.. Hingeectomy in case of further visits by AAA? Or are you going to take it down to them and lob it through the windscreen..?