Maybe the idea is to get in before that happens and people die.

like that really works

i did actually prefer drives out on my own as in groups you always did get the odd one or two who would take unnecessary risks to keep up, i preferred to wait then use a bit of extra speed to catch up.

I’m sure the people on bikes and horses have an opinion too, which ones I’d don’t know many that are safe as it is.

does it really make much difference to a bike or horse if someone passes at 60 or 90(not that you should pass a horse at 60 but its still a legal speed)

doesn’t really matter if speeding is legal or not, if someone wants to break a law thats up to them. personally i think there is quite a few roads out in the countryside that could be unrestricted. majority of people in performance cars/bikes will ignore the limit anyway on certain roads so why have one, if they cause an accident they can be done for something else anyway.

hell, theres some moaning gits on here. the bikers are just enjoying the roads like we enjoy flying down footpaths, walkers probably say the same about mountainbikers flying past them at speed as some of you lot say about the bikes. wasn’t that long ago that i’d be out blasting around in fast cars on the same roads mentioned above, sometimes on my own, sometimes a group of us. after every drive you where wondering if you would get something through the post resulting in a ban so i did eventually make the car track only.

and whats wrong with load exhausts, love sitting in the garden and hearing someone giving it beans down the road, certainly much better than hearing kids playing down the street.

It is better to collapse so your arse hits the wheel than so your nuts hit the back of the saddle.

both those are better options than going out of control down some rock with your nuts hitting the tyre, that was painfull.

probably going to flatten the bedrock sections, won’t be worth riding then. we didn’t tend to ride it much anyway though as a way to get back to little langdale we usually would carry on then go up by a big old quarry and descend down the cathedral path.

last 3 comments applied to me in my early days of riding. now don’t ride anywhere near as far of the back but sometimes on the really steep stuff my arse does feel close to the tyre at times. i’m talking about a really steep feature in a trail here , not just a normal steep descent.

from what i’ve heard they are doing more work on the same one.

unless you raise up the tray on a plinth or legs(which looks shit) the trap will never be accessible but thats never been an issue in the loads of bathrooms i’ve done. if its on an upstairs floor access is possible with a hole in the ceiling below.

getting a tray up in one peice is the least of the issues once the job is finished considering the tiles are also down onto the tray.

different trays say different things about fixing, one in my ensuite actually said it could be fitted with silicone but i’m not keen on that although a lot of plumbers do. most say bed on sand/cement, i used tile adhesive on mine, either will sort out the level of floors if they are out.

no views at all when i was there, 2 days of being in the cloud and rain. trails we raced on stood up to the weather well mostly though, it is a brake pad destroying place though in the wet.

why are you masking the skirtings then doing the walls, work downwards,emulsion walls then do the skirtings and woodwork.

i’m no decorater but work with a few so get advice from them.

yeah, i never touch the connection side of it, just fit the wires back to the box where the stat is going. never like going on a job where the sparky has fitted the UFH as they never secure it properly so i then have to go over it again sticking it down properly so it doesn’t float up in the self leveling. hot glue gun comes in handy for that being careful not to touch the wire with the end of it.

haven’t got a clue what sparkys charge, a mate does all mine at home and on jobs i leave that for the customer to sort out.

the mapei stuff will be ok, products of there’s are generally good, just the tile shop i use stocks tilemaster products so that’s what i use.

i have seen someone use one of those but for the same price you could get this

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337?tc=BB2&ds_kid=92700022850517724&ds_rl=1249796&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=CjwKCAjw8O7bBRB0EiwAfbrTh1q_-xXSeaDPAtWIjdquMYbTVYhGHeae4hgGMKKrBl4G0e2KQX6yRhoCs5kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=COaixOWB_9wCFWyiUQodzxMHoQ

cheaper than the one i have was but probably just as good unless you where spending a lot on one.

if you have somewhere near that stocks tilemaster i use this if i don’t need more than 15mm

http://www.tilemasteradhesives.co.uk/floor-levelling/rapid-level-30-ultra-rapid-setting-flexible-self-levelling-floor-compound

flows well and sets quick, although last month on a really hot day i wish i’d used there slower setting one

i test the UFH for resistance with a multimeter, it should tell you what the resistance should be. test it before laying it, before self leveling and again before tiling. i must have done over 100 and never had a problem.

its ok to walk on it to put the self leveling down carefully and be careful troweling out the self leveling.

i would just go ahead and put on a dust mask and pull the ceiling down, i’ve heard about people saying asbestos could be in plaster but i’ve never heard it officially. if it is i’m **** as i’ve pulled 100’s of ceilings down both plasterboard and old lath and plaster and years ago never even bothered with a dust mask on the plasterboard ones.

binners, you need to find a better pub to drink in, no sitting outside in the cold for me, i can use my e-cig in the pub.

if its packed(very rare) or someone is sat close to me eating because the eating room is full i don’t but otherwise i will do.

due to conditions dropped my rear tyre down to 20psi today for the king and queen enduro, fairly sure i wouldn’t have got away with that without the airliner in.

i’ve tried dual ply and have still dinged rims, find i have to run near 30 psi to avoid it. a lighter tyre at low pressure just feels so much nicer and gives a lot more grip. plus the ability to be able to finish a stage at a reasonable pace with a flat means its worth any hassles for me.

really impressed with mine, getting closer to my mates when racing now. seems to give me more confidence going down techy stuff and very impressed with how it climbs. been able to get much further up technical climbs than i could on my old G150.

i wouldn’t say it was easy to get the tyre on with the airliner but not to bad. i ended up seating both beads fully then popping one side of to fit the airliner. that was a new tyre so may be a bit easier once its been fitted. probably depends on rims as well, mine have a very shallow bed.

got a good deal on an airliner and tryes at ard rock. only had a couple of rides on it so far so bit early to judge but seems to ride nicely at 22psi, used to have to run a heavy tyre at 28psi before. mate’s been using one for a while and rates it, said it stops the squirming he used to get at the very low pressures he likes and he’s never heard his rim hit anything since fitting it.

haven’t a clue on the door side of things but your wet saw may have been good on ceramic but the cheap small ones really struggle if you try and cut porcelain or natural stone tiles. mine flies through anything and makes hardly any mess but costing over £750 isn’t really an option for one bathroom.

wouldn’t like to be someone walking or riding up it now, that bottom section was fast enough as it was.

the easiest way to tile the trays is when someone wants a mosaic or pebble shower floor as you don’t need to cut the angles.

normally just set the floor out as a whole and then do the end and angle cuts for the tray with the wet saw. the saw blade width out of the tile gives you the grout joint.

i did one once that just wouldn’t work out with the whole floor so i had to do the tray separate from the floor and made a feature of it with the way i layed the tiles. it took some working out and helped it was a big tray.

quite often do them as a wet room and then put one piece of glass in just to keep the bulk of the shower water over the tray. best option if its a smallish room.

UFH can go on top of the tray but its not something i’ve ever done.when your stood having a shower the tiles are covered in hot water so that takes the chill of them anyway. also you can’t cover the wires in self levelling over the tray although you could screed over them with tile adhesive instead.

its as you say with cables, drill the tiles and feed them through as you stick the tiles on. if porcelain tiles get some decent diamond core bits for tiles and drill slowly with water, it can take a while to get through.

wedi board is basically same as the stuff i linked to, there’s quite a few different makes. use it on the walls instead of plasterboard as well then there’s no need to tank all the walls.

nice and easy to cut and screw fix using the fixing washers. just done a job where the bloke said it was to expensive and got hardiboard instead for the walls,  overall will have cost him just as much with the extra labour of fitting the hardiboard. its not nice to cut unless your cutting a decent size piece of a board.

yeah you need a void between the insulation and the roof, with kingspan cut it tight and wedge it up flush with the bottom of the joists.

there should be vents either end of the roof to allow air flow between the joists so you need that void to allow the air flow.

inline fan in the ceiling would need access so may/may not be possible. kingspan can be cut to be a tight fit and then any gaps filled with foam, stays up better before its boarded. insulated plasterboard a good idea as well if there’s enough ceiling height.

i use these

http://www.tilemasteradhesives.co.uk/shower-trays

and then use there boards for the rest of the floor. don’t normally put the heating wire into the tray so use a 12.5mm board on the floor(trays are 20mm) and then cover the wire with self leveling to make the levels up.

always a good idea to cover the UFH with self leveling for protection while working and to make sure the wire is fully covered.

use reinforcing tape on the joints and corners with walls with tanking paste, a mall area i would just tank the whole floor as well.

wattage depends on if you want to take the chill of tiles or heat the room, i’ve only done ones that are to warm the tiles and have used these kits a lot.

https://www.ambient-elec.co.uk/shop/under-tile-cable-kits-(tpp)-professional/28/?r=1;3;

simple square rooms the mats work ok but i’ve generally found it to be much easier with the loose wire ones

here’s my strava from race day

https://www.strava.com/activities/1735696956

nothing of much interest on the last descent, just a flat out blast with a few corners to catch you out.

in practice on the way up to the last stage before the fire road pedal that was part of the stage there was a trail leading of to the left that several riders went down as we where passing, from the noises they where making it sounded like it might have been good.

i bought one a couple of years ago in an emergency when my monarch failed and needed a shock for a race. it was all i could find in a hurry in the right size. only used it for a dozen or so rides and it was ok but the monarch i replaced it with was better.

new bike came with 370’s, old one had pro 4’s. pro 4’s are a bit louder but i prefer that anyway.

bigger thing for me is the pick up, 370 is noticeably slower than the pro 4. not really been a problem riding but it is noticeable so when i get a better set of wheels it will be pro 4’s.

not me tooby, raced saturday so was at home sunday.

i did notice a lot of rallons there over friday and saturday.

me, 2018 rallon, enduro vets, 23.18

my mate, polygon, enduro masters, 21.37

we both had issues with slower riders, my mate much more than me.

my mate still would of been way quicker than me on his old knackered gaint.

i’m happy to use an exo maxxis on the front, either minion or shorty but not putting one on the rear again.

there was a maxxis van at the feed station at the bottom of 3 when i finished it on saturday, late morning.

i would go with all 4, sommat else being riding style. it helps being from the lakes, i’m used to rocks.

my mate recently started using a vittoria airliner and rates it. i’m trying one now as got a good deal of them on saturday for one and a couple of tyres to try.

to avoid punctures myself on saturday i ran a tough tyre (michelin wild rockR) at a high pressure (28psi) having said that the high pressure doesn’t help against sharp rocks piecing the trye, just stops pinch flats.

just had a quick look at a vid of stage 2, it was the last left hander that he stopped to let me past on, not surprised i struggled to keep it out of the fencing going down the inside there. i would have been more than happy for him to have got round the corner and pulled up high to let me pass.

jamesoz, most people i caught in good places so gave a early shout and then it didn’t really affect either of us much.

bloke in the switchbacks i didn’t shout as wasn’t sure where he could go but he realised i was there and pulled up high on the one with the fencing just after it, i had to quicky dive down the inside and nearly went into the fencing.

think he was struggling with it as he must of gone in 30 seconds before my mate and i was a further 10 back.

i try to remember if i as an average mid pack racer in most events i do am catching people they are probably struggling a bit and it will possibly unsettle them even more when someone flies up behind them. they’re doing all they can to ride the course without then needing to look for somewhere to let someone past.

had a good day saturday in the main enduro, 29th in vets just over 23minutes. could of done much better in 2,4 and 6 i think. wasn’t helped in 2 by catching someone in the switchbacks but thats the way it goes. got lucky with anyone else that i caught and after 3 it spread out a bit more with no queuing and bigger gaps.

i think max  for that shock is 350psi so you’ve plenty to play with. i don’t think i’m far of your pressure and i’m about a stone lighter than you.

as its not my shock and i hope to be back on the coil very soon i haven’t looked into reducers for it so don’t know on that one. sounds like they may be different to the rockshock ones i’ve used on my previous bike.

i’ve had to borrow a DPX2 for mine as my coil shock dumped its oil out and is away for warranty repair. i’m running the shock almost fully open, cant remember if it was 1 or 2 clicks away and 25% sag. if it was my shock i would be putting in some volume reducers and dropping the pressure a bit. coil shock feels way better.

mine has the factory 36 and fox’s recommended settings where way to much compression damping for me.

best thing just ride it and see how it feels then adjust from there. my fork was really harsh at recommended settings. i also think i’m quite a bit faster on the rebound than 5 clicks but not sure how many clicks.

its all to personal anyway and depends on what your normal riding is.

esselgruntfuttock, i assume you are/used to be a PO? they where all pretty decent blokes in northallerton from what i remember.

can remember sat in the dining room one day having tea when a group of lads tried kicking off, think they where hoping everyone else would join in but no one else did so it was quickly got under control.