Sounds like you’ve self-diagnosed!

Yeah think I’ll have a look at SLX or XT and if I can’t find anything suitable just keep what I’ve got. Any recommendations on chainrings? Was looking at the Hopes with integrated bash but not sure these are the thick/thin chain keepers everyone seems to rate.

I assume I can ditch the chain guide with a thick/thin too?

So if I’m looking at SLX or XT do I need to get a triple and do what I’ve done with the Deore, or can the cranks/spiders be sourced separately for what I need?

I do like the look of the Covert, how heavy are they, realistically, built up? Transition website says 7.7lb medium with shock, assuming I’ll need a large..

Probably go 1×10 or 2×10 with a dropper post.

Probably similar trails, I’m not one really for all day XC flattish rides. Am I right in thinking the Alpine’s can be built up not altogether too heavily?

Comfort as I was riding the Blue Pig today Langsett to Derwent and back, and my arse took a bit of a beating on the rockier stuff. Had a little ride on a mates Heckler, which seemed to ride nicely.

Yeah something different, I thought about it but there’d not be much point getting something with the same travel (140mm Rockshox) a bit more bounce and comfort would be nice.

A Vokera Linea won’t have a thermocouple so disregard that post, no offence.

It’ll likely be the ignition electrode, which is fairly inexpensive, but it is kind of a case of trial and error, it could well be the PCB or gas valve, at which point it starts getting expensive..

At 12 years old, I’d expect it to be nearing ending it’s life anyway, and you’ve got to weigh up yourself the time/cost outlay of repair against replacement and higher efficiency of a new appliance.

Hope this helps.
Ben

Pretty sure it is, I’ve an IS to IS adapter on there at the min, will I need to take into account the rotor size the frame is designed for though?

😕

Cool, so that’ll make the rotors I ordered fit?

Crc were out of DH ones so ended up getting the standard MTB ones.

Most of my punctures tend to be snakebites so I tend not to bother repairing, maybe go through 10 tubes in about 12/18months so just stock up, that’s all.

No, not racing. But have a fairly ‘burly’ Blue Pig and myself weigh about 14st+ kit. So was wondering if the weight saving was worth considering.

I’m probably gonna get a pack of 10 DH ones and see how I get on..

+however many, Montane.

Got the featherlite, showerproof, small, comfortable.

Maxxis Ardent/Advantages seem to get good reviews.

I’ve got an Advantage sat waiting to go on currently, in 2.1 form for a bit less drag.

The first red unit, with a ‘rod’ (phial) into the water jacket is the overheat thermostat, with a resettable cut-out on it somewhere. The second in series is the control thermostat, with which you set the temperature of the hot water delivered at the tap.

Are you saying you’re getting voltage down to the first thermostat, out of it into the second, but nothing out to the element?

The element will be below both of these thermostats and you will just see two poles protruding from the brass of the immersion heater itself.

Hope this helps,
Ben

Heard nothing but good stuff about them anyway. Lots of people on here buy bits from Germany without any issues, I’m sure it’ll turn up!

It’s coming from Germany, relax. Ze’ Germans are efficient ya!

New WiFi card turned up today, fault still the same.

Gonna take it to the local laptop place, see what they can do with it, seems that deal at John Lewis has expired..

Sounds worth it for a few quid, will give it a shot, thanks!

That Lenovo is lovely, although slightly out of my price range.. was thinking about £300 +/-£50, I suppose if a new WLAN doesn’t work I’d best get saving!

Cheers for the friendly advice, will have ‘a word’ with the owner when I catch her in/open.

It’s basically not acceptable that she’s forgotten what she agreed verbally, I’ll mention that she entered into a contract from that point, whether recorded or not, or will threaten to make sure everyone knows what she’s like, hopefully she’ll turn over the moneys!

Is the WLAN card replacable by just removing the keypad then?

Thanks.. Again

AFAIK she pays her by bank transfer, so not entirely sure if it’s all legitimate or not. The record of hours isn’t signed by anyone, no, I’m afraid.

Went to the shop this afternoon to argue a case with this owner but it wasn’t open.

She has a diary of hours worked for this woman, yes.

I really only want something for web browsing/ the occasional picture etc. I’d be looking into a tablet if it weren’t for my iTunes music.

Where/how should I look for a new WiFi card? I’m currently limited to internet access on my phone at the moment

Thanks
Ben

Was a verbal ‘summer/casual work’ type job. No real contract or employment ‘rights’ as far as I can gather..

Thanks Junkyard. Think I may go ‘discuss’ with this woman RE; payment. In behalf of my partner.

Will have a ring ’round tomorrow, do I need to take the BB out, or is it do-able without?

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/index.html?search=sapim+spokes&x=12&y=11

have you tried tapping, and I mean tapping the slotted cicular section with a spanner or similar? It does stop it if it’s only a weep..

Alternatively turn the water off at the stopcock, freezing the pipes in a house is pointless, as it’ll be copper, and as the ice plug in the pipe expands it’ll split the copper. (Same as it bursts external pipes)

Ben.

Got 64 Sapim Leaders at 258mm, and 70 Sapim Polyax brass nippless for £22. 😀

General consensus seems to be to get 258mm, so I’ll do that, cheers everyone.

So 16 of each front & rear?

Ok will do.

Am I better off ordering 258mm’s then or will they be too short?

Also where’s best to get accurate dimensions for Pro2 Evo’s and/or Mavic EN521’s?

Ta!

When I’m compressing them with the lockout on/off I can see air/oil coming out from around the compression knob circlip, is it just the o-ring below thats leaking? Do I just need to remove & refit?

Also I was testing the travel with them upside down, but with them the right way up it still seems the same..

I’m starting not to enjoy playing with forks 😕

Not really, seems pretty much the same 😐

If I push down firmly on the damper side I’m getting about 105mm travel, if I push down quite hard I can get about 115, which would suggest to me that that’s all ok.

Refit the lowers, check with no air in to see if I’m getting somewhere near full travel y’reckon?

Ben

Edit; Of course I didn’t check travel before I stripped it all down that’d make sense.. silly 🙄

So if I push the rebound rod up say, 140mm or so? As that should be its max travel.

They’re 2010 Recon 351 Solo-air’s, the oil chart says 130ml, is that right?

Do I need to push the air side rod up aswell to check travel? I had the valve core out the other day (with the forks on the bike) and when depressed the forks seemed to travel pretty much all of the stanchions into the lowers.

Thanks, Ben

Also if you remove the pipes, and just leave the meter-intlet valve shut, you’ve just left what’s known as an ‘open end’ – in effect if the gas were turned back on at the valve it’d still be live. That’d be a RIDDOR reportable offence and the HSE should be informed.

Get a qualified Gase Safe engineer to cap off the meter. Or if you’re removing the meter the transporter (your supplier) will come and remove the meter.

You should then be safe to remove the pipes, make sure you take them to your local ‘recycling centre’ too 😆

Edit; dont take chances with gas, it’s really not worth it!

You need to be Gas Safe registered to alter/ repair/ disconnect/ reconnect or test any part of a gas installation. I should know 😉

Right lowers are off, had the damping assembly apart.. again, there was definately no oil in this time. Topped up to 130ml and refitted the MoCo.

Do I need to refit the lowers/ repressurise the air to check I’m getting full travel?

Thanks.. again! Haha

Looks like I’m getting the gloves and tools out again then!