Oooooo, where to start.

For fast rolling, with good grip on hardpack I really like WTB Trailboss TCS Tough/fast rolling tyres, although I have used TCS light/fast rolling in the peaks with few issues.

I like all WTB tyres to be honest!

Hutchinson Gryphon for the rear is also a pretty light rolling choice, with a Minion DHF on the front – surprisingly light rolling and I like to have a lot of grip on the front to tackle roots and push into corners.

This is just purely my opinion.

I have a pair of freerider pros which are about two years old, the sole is on it’s way out and even then they are nothing like skate shoes – which is why I bought them, for pedal support. They are much stiffer than regular freeriders, but in my opinion, all the better for it.

Mega! Thank you

Did any of my rides even happen?! What is my life all about now!!!!????

Plus one for freerider pros. Best flat pedal shoes I have had, will get another pair when they eventually die (which appears to be longer than most). Used in winter with seal skins and well happy.

Ok, so it sounds like it’s a common problem. Will just accept the lower calories.

Simon is a good bloke. Used to ride with him regularly and is far from a scammer.

Wow. Brilliant stuff thank you! Not sure why someone advised that I do it in one go? How is that advice when I was clearly stating I wanted to break up the journey!? Guess they must know me really well and know exactly my circumstances.

Anyway, thanks for the rest of you who have offered some genuinely handy advice.

Cheers. Will have a look. We want somewhere to have a mooch about and a meal.

I have tried loads of guards and ska edge AL are the best ones I have come across. Good looking, rattle free and tough.

I can never get photos on here properly.

I have a DPX2 on my transition sentinel, I had it all set up correct according to transition and fox recommended settings but it felt awful. Not quite the same , but it was too slow to respond to repeated hits so I wound out the rebound to make it more responsive and it feels amazing now.

I used a shockwhizz to test it and it said that it is working as it should be now.

I have not messed about with the volume spacers.

Thanks, will have a go at those suggestions.

Hope pro 4 on open pro ust wheels, db spokes. Hard to find a better build for the money.

They feel like a much, much more expensive pair of wheels.

Tour dividers do longer days back to back on mtbs and survive.

Sure you can do it, don’t listen to the haters.

It might be tough, but as long as you have the fitness and mindset to do it, you will be fine.

I assume you are somewhere peaks/Yorkshire? Pennie bridleway is quite tough going on places and doesn’t give as easy miles as some sustrans stuff, had many a trip cut short cos I couldn’t maintain the pace I wanted to on it.

I have a longitude that I have set up as a 29+. Rolls really sweet on the sorts of trails you are talking about. I use wtb ranger 3.0’s and it’s ace.

This looks bucket list worthy. In reality, is Norway really as expensive as reported?

I mean in terms of accommodation and food. I wouldn’t eat out and would look for cheap accommodation or camping if it’s an option.

No experience at all with cycling in Europe!

Yeah, I am not sure I will “seriously regret it” if I don’t….I have ran my gravel bike for a year without, just wanted to be convinced to convert it.

Wow! Thank you all. I will do it!

I have a frame bag on both my gravel and 29+ , the kind which allows for two bottles still. They weigh very little but you can carry enough for a full days ride without a pack.

Have a seat pack too for tools, just to keep them all together.

It’s a win win.

Genesis longitude, 29+, hub gears and mudguards.

Amazing in the mud, snow ice etc. Very little maintenance needed, just keeps on going.

Totally in budget and riding rigid bikes makes your full sus feel amazing. Fact.

I went from a 530 to an edge explore, much much better for navigation in my opinion.

Ridley Kanzo sizing is really odd. I ride a L in mtbs (Transition and Genesis) and L gravel bike (Titus) but my Kanzo is a S and it is bang on. Can’t remember what size I normally ride for a road bike.

I am 5’9”, think I have longish legs hence going for a L.

I would try one out if you can. My S is not small by any means, not much post showing, reach was bang on for me with a 100mm stem.

Would agree about straight pull, fine until you need to adjust them.

@Tom-B, what hubs have you got at the moment and do they work?

If so, I would consider a rebuild.

Have three pairs. Love em. Thoroughly recommend them.

@matt_outandabout it’s a tortec velocity rack I think.

Velocity rack

Rest in peace. Legend.

Can we ban anyone who thinks saddles should be tilted forward?

@faz71, you’re thought process is the same as mine. Mtbs look cool with lots of post, ravel/groad/cyclogross look better with less.

FACT

I use a combo of 10/11/12 speed stuff and have not had an issue yet.

Could you not put the 12 speed chainring on the other cranks?

Gonna throw my hat in the ring…

And

And for completion…

Just an update on the most excited post this year…

So, I really do appreciate the views you guys have shared and yes, it would have been better to have a picture with my lard ass actually on the bike.

Enough of you confirmed that it is possibly too small/on the boarder line so, I have contacted Planet X and they are happy to swap it, even though I have ridden it. Mega kudos to them for excellent communications and customer service.

Mini review: it’s flipping an amazing frame for the price, I tested a much more expensive ti frame and it didn’t feel as titaniumy (that’s a word – fact) as this. Really really well built, not super light but super capable.

Buy one. In fact buy two. Thank you pX.

Agree with @alexnharvey, I made a little tool out of a spoke.

Made it shaped like a capital letter T with a nipple on the end screwed on enough to expose a little bit of thread to attach a new nipple to.

Learning to wheel build helps take wheels away from being a “thing” to the sum of parts. You will save loads of cash and be able to repair them easily. You will soon wonder why people spend such a fortune on fancy wheels.

There is loads of advice out there about spoke patterns etc but I just stick to good old three cross and j bend spokes. Never ever let me down. I always just copy any wheel I have in the garage when I start one – always start at the “key spoke” (one near the valve hole). Work round it methodically and you will be fine. Just take your time.

I would agree. If you get the spoke length right using an online tool, then if you take your time then it’s not too hard.

Top tip is to make sure you put the same amount of turns on each nipple as you build. I go for just to the point when the threads are covered and then slowly add tension, the same amount for every nipple. Tends to build a wheel with very little up and down or side to side wobbles.

That’s an accurate representation of me, although I am a current mtber or cyclist as I like to call it.

Convert – like this?

I would agree with scruff, different bikes for different rides.

I love gravel bikes, feels like riding in the 80’s!

Yeah think either size could work but aesthetically speaking prefer less post. Hey ho.

Lane is Ramsden road in the north peaks (Holmfirth ish).

Phewwwww