matey’s DH casings were not at all, but again, that’s especially relevant

Not really relevant, your leaky sidewalls are indicative of the state of your sealant.

broken the b-stop notch off your hanger?

You won’t be voiding the warranty by replacing the BB

unless you break the frame doing so

Top tip, remove dropper lever from bar.
Loosen any cable management.
Loosen seatpost collar
Gently lift seatpost upwards whilst pushing cable/lever in the direction of the seatpost.
Only remove inner cable once you’ve brought the seatpost out far enough that you have access to the outer end in the seat tube.

Different forum issue for me..if I click on any of the threads posted by staff linking to a front page article, then the forum freezes. I have to close the tab and come back in.
If I click the article off the front page then it’s all good.

I’ll break it down further if you like.
#1
24″ ripcord (130mm cranks)
26/24″ Mullet ripcord
26″ vpace Moritz (390mm reach, 135mm cranks)
27.5 XS BMC speedfox trail crew (395mm reach /2.0 slackset, 140mm cranks)
+27.5 Spark XS future pro (375mm reach, 140mm cranks)
Currently 12yo
27.5 M Felt compulsion (145mm cranks)
+27.5 S Glory (160mm cranks)

#2
24″ ripcord
26/24 Mullet ripcord
26″ vpace Moritz
Currently 10yo
26″ XS bmc speedfor trail crew
+27.5 spark

#2 is a little small for the spark with 27.5s even though it’s reach is shorter on paper than the BMC. Its fine with leggy low tech xc rides but downsizing the XS BMC to 26″ wheels and it is perfect for him when stuff gets rowdy. 27.5 on the BMC and it’d be a little cumbersome fit wise

You may have noticed I’m not shy on investing in equipment to fit the progression properly. However with less funds, the one place I wouldn’t compromise spending money is crank length. He’s only on 160 on the DH because of the 83mm BB.

26 for sure.

If I put one of the 10s above the stem the gap is still going to be over 8mm.

But you’ll be taking that 10mm from below the stem right?
Now the stem is 2mm below the top of the steerer and the 10m spacer above is irrelevant on clamping force and only providing preload

The integrity of the bar at the clamp zone would be more my concern.

Conti cross king protection
755g at 2.3 but is high volume.

Purely cosmetic, frustrating sure, but as I said above, epoxy and a quick clamp.
Wet and dry once dry and carry on regardless.
FWIW, I invisi/ridewrap all my frames as I’m precious. That wheel…I would be disappointed but wouldn’t stop me riding them.

I’ll take them if you’re going to chuck em out ;)
I ran the xmc 1200s at 25mm on my 150mm trail bike in Whistler and squamish and they took an absolute battering and kept on trucking. Infact they’re downcyled on my kids race bike now. Front bearings need doing though
On the flip side, 2nd ride on a.n.other carbon rear wheel and I broke it. Repaired it at home and I’m 2 seasons in with zero bother.
Turns out my lezyne track pump says 20psi at 14psi.. that’ll do it.

I’d epoxy that skelf back in place with a quick clamp to hold it place while it cures then crack on.

Worth noting, my experience with the brilliant DT tech support staff back in the day is that they didn’t have much tolerance for JRA warranty complaints but would sort you out if you told them the rad story of how you actually broke it ;)

Hang on, with that Joe weirdos tool, the process is almost exactly the same as with out the tool.
Loosen bolts, spin wheel (on in this case rotate to align too), squeeze brake and hold, tighten bolts
What’s the tool helping with?

All the tire places/garages here have a disclaimer on their invoices and put the responsibility on the owner to come back for a lug nut torque check before 100kms.

Adult elbows are great on skinny knee’d kids if you don’t have kids pads available locally..
G-form, scott and troy lee do good flexible kids stuff. Most other brands are catching up with the demand too.

12-14-16-20-24-26-27.5 for both our boys.#2 added a 10 at the start cos he’s tiny.

longer nipples wont get you into the “go” area. So, its a no-go from me
nipp

I’d probably replace the transformer to an led rated one as I believe there are subtle differences.
I’d also not buy 6000k bulbs either, but that’s a personal preference.

fair, they don’t fit my pedros chain whip so super annoying.
its the 12t that is the compressive sprocket though. the 10t get pressed against the 12, not against the driver body.

12 speed.. no 11t or notch like that.
I’d check your freehub. or, visually that the 10t and 12t have the dots lines up

It will be busy, there’s no two ways about it.
Tourism is back to normal, crankworx is back on, the resort is hungry to drive visitor numbers and more people than ever are riding bikes.
A sunny Wednesday evening and 268 people raced the phat Wednesday course. That’s 40% more than the same race in 2019.
Passes, no problem, Vail won’t sell out. Bikes I’d certainly look to book in advance.
Lift lines, that period is normally less busy than later in the event, but I’d still expect 30-45 minute lineups plus there are no Creekside operations this year to diffuse volume.
Events wise, the pumptrack challenge will be a good one. Depends where they build it as to accessibility (looks like DS and pumptrack are base 2 so away from the main village core up at blackcombs base2), but it’s always a full house for spectators. The photo challenge is also worth trying to get to as the production value is high. It been a ticketed event previously but likely in an open air venue so if you don’t want front row tickets you can still watch from a distance.

The resort will almost certainly be buzzing and by that I mean probably at full capacity..
If you haven’t got accommodation booked yet, do that.

You have to wait 7days to get to perfect trail pressure?
Why not just start a 20 ;)

few years back

Golly, the rims referred to as cheese were the 6.1D and prior. Largely solved once DT moved away from the red FR2350 and started using 2250 etc.
The white EX1750 was the first wheelset that was built with the 5.2d rim iirc and where they came off the softer x.1 rims.
that was 2007, so just a few years back yes ;)

Prior to 2007, DT were making rims that got you down a race course and you could straighten out with pliers at home, vs Mavic that cracked and you had to replace.

If you’re disappointed by the xm481 you’ll likely be devastated by any other brand.
The ex511 is the same width but slightly heavier/stronger.
Inserts might be a good choice and with the fortus 30 29″ rim at 720g you could double up on rim inserts for the porky weight difference over the 481 ;)
200g more in the hope rim.. that’s crazy!

I’ve done this a couple of times, trailside using a packaged alcohol wipe (for resus facemasks) an old bit of tissue and a tube repair kit + an anchovie usually.
Works well enough to get riders home but typically there’s normally partial peeling of the tube patch off the inside of the tire on next inspaction.
The only seemly permanent success has been a good cleaning (as posts above) and clamping a patch in place to set overnight.

I picked up a well used 350 hub with notchy original bearings, tapped them or, tapped the same ones back in, perfect.
It’s a mystery sometimes.

It an older generation pinned eyeleted rim. New to the catalogue in 2014.
22mm inner.
Nothing wrong with it though as a budget option. I’d prefer welded joints but it’s a pricepoint rim.

Step one would be asking yourself if youre a ham fisted bafoon. If so, then don’t.
If you’re somewhat mechanically able and pay attention to the small details then sure.
I assume you’ll need a small chamfer on the holes so I’d see if stepped drill bits are available in the size you need..2.4-2.6mm?

Rear triangle does look to be out of a Chinese catalogue. Same hardware, d-hanger, cable guides etc and a different layup/finish to the front triangle in their insta prototype shots.
To be fair though, hangers and cable guides are a catalogue part, it’s just that typically the Chinese frames have shitty looking after thought d-hangers so you’d think they would chosen to design for a better solution if it was an in house design.
Don’t blame them though if that is the case. Would double their tooling costs when the front triangle tooling alone will have been of significant cost to produce.
Good to see some uk growth.

Scott Spark swing arm redone it cost about £90, labour and parts.

Who doesn’t love free labour. The kits 90quid on its own :)

Removing those main pivot bearings (any bearings) will often kill them anyway.
There’s a good chance the main pivot bearings are dead. They are always the first ones to go in my experience.
I use a long drift/punch and work very slowly around the bearing to drive it out.
The spark has a sleeve inbetween the two bearings but it moves enough to allow you to get the punch onto the bearing inner race.
Scott also don’t use any locking compound on their carbon frame/bearing interfaces so it’s genuinely a gentle tap tap tap.

Most Shimano shifters bodies are the same and can be interchangeable

Not anymore. It used to be that you could swap the upper body cap, but now they are entirely different products.

Problemsolvers would probably have something.
“Ispec ev band clamp”?

The LN came about because 370 to 350 conversions were being done anyway and DT presumably wanted to provide effective sealing. Using off the shelf 240/350 parts worked just fine but you had to remove a seal so it wasnt ideal.
The ratchets themselves are exactly the same as those found in DT star ratchet hubs over the last 20+ years (excluding
The only new part is the freehub body.
Whether you can use half a ratchet set in an EXP hub though.. I’m not sure.

SDG Slater here also. Swapped out pins for something pointier

To be fair, we see riders peaking at different times, particularly in the women’s field.
Remember Loana destroyed everyone in the early season races but then went off the boil, comparatively bonked the Olympics then unfortunately quit the season early as she wasn’t able to recover.
Rebecca could simply be on a tear right now and PFP’s eyeing up the world champs.
Evie finished last season in impressive form but illness and injury has messed the start of this year up.
Evidently it doesn’t take much bad luck to throw a spanner in the works.
I’ll keep hoping for good results for Jolanda, Jenny and Evie, the rest is just good telly.

Happy for the big german after the repeated efforts he put in at last week’s xcc.
What’s equally impressive though is seeing where pidcock came back from having lost significant position in the tight right hander on the climb and was back in 10/12th or so before the dropping into the speedway descent.
He made up a mind bending amount of track and positions to take that second.

I watched a guest replace a shifter cable once, he set and manually held his mech on the biggest sprocket, added all his clicks onto the shifter then tightened off the cable. I’d never seen that before (rapid ride aside but this was not rapid rise). It took ages and about 4 hands.
You’re not doing it that way are you?
That’s the only way I can see you loosing the smallest few sprockets if you’re working backwards down onto the high stop.
I’ve have a sram mech loose the smallest sprocket when tightening the shift cable as the bolt rotated the back plate and effectively added extra cable tension like if you shortened the cable with the barrel.
I can’t see this taking out more than just one gear though.

You just need to make sure Chad, Cody, Toby, Brady and Kurt all the memo.

I’ve often used a couple of wraps of PTFE tape to take the minimal movement out of the splines/rotor interface.
Pads can knock back and forth also though.

You could set up a little pee station for pooch. Probably even buy buy one from Amazon with the intention of having doggo using the same place to pee/poo rather that having your entire space as a toilet.
An artificial grass square with zeolite backfill could keep the smell down also