I’d probably email rocky canada..they are Canadian not American.

Anyone using one of those supercapacitor jump starters?
Seems like a good option that you dont need to keep toppped up – assuming they work as advertised

Invisiframe have cut me the downtube parts out of their thicker film in the past.
I asked and they delivered.
I just swapped the downtube and BB shell pieces out for the regular kit pieces, perfect fit.

5:22, pretty heavy influence on the drivers free choice.
White landy also positions himselve behind a vehicle in one clip.

Are the clowns filming this removing the warning signs/closure notices too?
Stood there, cameras out encouraging people through, or pressuring them through as the local 4×4 crew beep them from behind.
Pretty savage really.

Just buy the phr washers.
Without, I assume you’ll have to build at lower tension and have a less bombproof wheel.
Google says spokesfromryan for 8quid.

I’m in Canada but pretty sure I have a new set of 152mm 24mm alloy spindle cranks. Sram DM chainring. Same as vpace/trailcraft cranks.
Includes a 32t ring and PF BB but you’d need to pickup a 68/73 threaded BB if that’s what your frame needs.
Sram DM means you have 3 chainline options with other rings..
I’d need 200cdn plus postage though.

Good to know. It’s an air spring version.
I run my current 38 wide open to reduce that finger peel on bike park days.
I’ve all winter to sort my strength though as I’ve been off the bike for a few months following a big off and busy work schedule once I’ve been mobile again.

he’d still have used forks. Which is the same thing?

not really, as he’d know the history on his used repaired forks. These, as said, are a potential bigger can of worms.

40-50% is out target. after a couple of years of inadvertently growing mold in our house in the winter and associated respiratory issues

local FB seller with a pair of Krypotal Fr/Re trail/endurance tires. Said they are stamped made in Germany.
I thought these were the chiner rubber?
Anyone any wiser?

Don’t oil prolock nipple threads. Grease the phr washer and nipple shoulders.

Straight pull spokes will need some mechanical holding as you get up to tension. I normally do this with fingers as I don’t have the right tool and modified pliers tens to do a bit of damage…but oh boy do my hands hurt by the end.
Sapim d-lights make this easier as you use the spanner flats to stop them rotating.
If you don’t have it, the squorx t-handle tool is a must.

did you try nudging them individually towards the center line?
If they’re 4″ lights and hes used a 4 1/4″ hole saw then there’ll be some movement

The number of dead ends that Scott’s been down over the decades…..

Go on?

Scott launched the 3 stage remote activated carbon Genius platform in 2003, albeit with a pull shock until the v3 launch in 2013 (US Horst patent expiration). The v2 generation included the LT which pushed the mainstream brands for slack HA numbers..the LT like the rest of their bikes have typically always been amongst the lightest bikes in their travel range.

The v1 ransom 2006-2010 was the only other bike to have a proprietary shock but it was a push shock and you could swap out the equalizer for an rp23 with a small aircan. Again lightest bikes in their class by a margin.

Not sure what other dead ends there have been, or if the trac/twin lock with dual chamber suspension could be considered a dead end as it been around for 20 years, hopefully with no plans of them stopping.
Can’t say internal/headset routing, or one piece bars/stems are dead ends either when other brands offer the same

I’ve rose tinted glasses though so might easily be missing some brand clangers?

.

We’re normally chilling out by the time the fireworks go off..Our normal approach is to “secure” the dog by having her under my legs. Stops her wandering off, scraping holes or peeing in the corner in fear and seemed to give her a sense of grounded safety – maybe?
This year, she’s stone cold deaf, not a bother even though the fireworks have been on a different level than ever before.
One of the upsides of having a 14 year old doggo I suppose. If she still had her hearing, it’s not beyond the realms of possibility that her previous firework stress woulve been her demise.

original discs on the family car did 10 years. several winter commuting seasons on salty roads.
Back side of discs had rusted out and effectively grown around the hub. there was no joy with considered persuasion with a sledge hammer so they got chopped off.
cut through them all the way one half of the braking surface then deep scored right across the hub face. lump hammer worked once I’d got most of the way through.
not a fun job, but cheaper than a new hub and the likely snowballing task that would have been

Mid spec Spark RC and add a dropper and carbon wheels.
It probably will be as capable as your 150mm 27.5 bike down hill anyway.

To which my reply was, “well apart from Melamed who just won EWS on a RM”….. He didn’t have much to reply

On a medium, at 5’7″

Synchros have a kids post too but could be a rebranded post, I haven’t looked closely.
My kids have always just had fox transfers on their bikes, starting on the 24″ transition ripcord.. #2 was at that point (and still is) an absolute sparrow and has never had an issue with dropping the transfer post under his slight weight.

Yep, 20×110 surely, I don’t recall 20×100 on a 40.

I don’t think it’s just the VLT but also the film type.
I had 3M color stable 35 on the rear windows and solarguard ultra 75 on the front sides.
I seem to remember their heat rejection numbers were almost identical even though you can barely tell the fronts are done.

Also added carshades to rear sides for window down protection for the kids and rear hatch but 35vlt plus the shades makes evening/night visibility more challenging.
My actual “limo” van has factory 22% tint and you’d have to shade your eyes to see inside from the outside but you can still see out properly.

Totally accept my narrow view, but I’m still stuck on how, at primary school age, there’s a significant extended benefit to learning to read and produce musical notes on a $500 clarinet over a $10 recorder, or by using an aging keyboard that could’ve been in the school for decades.
fwiw, I had private lessons on piano for a few years (age11-14 i think) and a stint on the guitar. Did recently have a go with yousician when trying to get my eldest motivated to crack on with his electric guitar learning for his school compulsory music but haven’t touched the piano since.
Perhaps I’m projecting my negativity as for me, it took away from my time from football/cricket/squash/tennis/lacrosse/tabletennis etc which I have certainly had infinitely more life benefit from.

there is a lot to said for playing ‘archaic’ instruments

That’s essentially my question though
Is there genuinely?
Schools used to teach students to use typewriters, schools now teach coding.
There’s no reason in my mind that the benefits of music class shouldn’t evolve in the same way and wouldn’t kids have more benefit from those social interaction/discipline/building/ self confidence pieces with drum pads, loopers, keyboards etc that are (more) relevant in today’s music production.

Making them rent to own or buy a specific wind instrument is like saying ok kids, p.e. this year.. here’s your sport, you have to do this and only this all year, oh and you’ll need to go and buy a bow, (no, not a bent piece of maple from the forest, a really fancy one) , arrows and a target.

All this for the torture of the Christmas concert. as a group you’ll ultimately sound awful but it’s ok, the parents will smile and clap anyway and you can be proud that you paid enough for a season of [insert extracurricular activity here] to be this frustrated.

Stumpyjohn, I’m a mix of those 3 types, which I guess means there’s probably many more than 3.
I’m largely an enabler. If my kids want to try something, I’m game – if we can afford it. I’m also a realist in that I know that if #2 doesn’t like something after trying it, or has a negative experience no matter how long he’s been doing it or how good he is, then he’s done, thats it, no reasoning or encouragement will break him free from those mental chains. That means that setting him up for failure is a poor choice..he already knows what his perception of failure looks like and “it’s ok, try again”, “try harder” or “it doesn’t matter if you think you suck” doesn’t seem to be a solution.. and no, I’m not an ‘everybody gets a medal’ type either
I’m also tight in that I prefer not to start fires with bank notes.
Narrow minded? Most likely ;)

I’ve no idea if the chameleon has an open head tube into the top tube, but if that’s the case, then of course with the fork and headset bearings are out of the way…
I’d be getting the cables through from rear to front and out the biggest hole, foam sleeving them, then pulling them back in towards the seat tube and threading them through the cable port, then pulling them through as far as they need then sliding the grommet before making connections..
if there’s no access through the head tube, then I’d be effing and blinding and have a bad back from working upside down thinking it’d be a quick job.

Running just off the end of the dipstick may not be terminal but could easily lead to intermittent oil starvation and cause damage.
Rod knock for example. Not terminal but isn’t going to repair itself by filling the oil level back up.

Spokes

most of the worlds elite don’t even bother turning up

Give us a list of WC racers who are capable of following Nico Vink and Brendan Fairclough down Fest Session sized jumps? Nope?
Give us a list of freeriders who are mega fast in the tech? Nope?
Jacksons sessioned Fest and cut his teeth being progresses through Woodward’s mega ramps by all manner of the worlds best freeriders. His early jr WC race results were pretty unexpected I think and were quite the surprise as far as I understand it as his early focus wasn’t DH race.
There’s are so few crossover athletes really capable of doing it.
Semenuk would’ve been a great participant but Rampage being a higher priority and now with edits and rally paying the bills I cant see the risk/reward.

Hole on the outside is irrelevant to the tire leaking. You need to retape/check valve seating as above.

I really like the hixons off my Genius tuned that now live on my spark.
Probably better than every other bar/stem I’ve had over the years and I’m waiting on the 780 Hixon IC’s for my new spark. I get the least sore hands off the hixon than my other setups
Of note, Syncros have 31 sku’s in their 1-piece IC cockpit, 40mm-100mm…740, 760, 780, 800. -40deg to 15mm rise..
Their non integrated bar/stem range is only 8 skus deep though

Regardless of it being the right size or not, I’d still want to be cracking open a used shock of unknown history and doing an air can service anyway.
Of note, the DPS doesn’t have the same spacer set up as the float x video above. It’s a metal spacer ring that you have to snip off with side cutters iirc.
I can understand not wanting to do that.
If it were really cheap though and just a backup, run it as is and enter the downcountry genre

32 spoke build, I do it in sets of 8. all 8 on the same side first, then the next 8 then the next and the last.
innies and outies seem to get differing opinion depending on how far back you go on forums. (hence your question)

Starting driveside, for 3 cross, count 3 hub holes left of the hub logo, drop a spoke through from the outside to inside, attach nipple to hole left of valve hole. skip one hub hole, skip 3 rim holes, repeat. 9make sure youve orientated any offset rims correctly)
Your “second spoke” now becomes spoke #9. eyeball 1 hub hole left of starting spoke and put a spoke through from out to in (upwards per your question). fix spoke/nipple 1 hole away from the first one you fixed next to the valve hole. flip wheel over, and repeat as before by dropping spokes through.
Now the remaining sets on each side is easy(er) to deal with as you’re going inside to outside with more room to work. Whether you choose to start front and rear wheels from drive/non-drive to get different lead spokes is up to you. as far as I can tell it doesn’t really matter. Most of my factory built wheels are all the same regardless of front or rear
Some methods suggest doing the 2nd spoke as the parallel spoke opposite the valve hole..that just seems confusing.

Yep, as above, Stw hq posts freeze and crash my android opera browser.
On other threads pressing an embedded thread link sends me to the subscribe/member advert that I can’t dismiss. I can’t reply to anything through opera either so I’m on chrome now to reply but getting hammered by ads.

Yes I should subscribe, but what if it doesn’t actually get any better if I do?

My eldest is lucky enough to go on team rides with the current Canadian f-u19 XCO champ and she had a superb take on the boys attitude to taking helmets off to climb on a hot day.
She pulled her helmet off and said, “wow we look cool, when do we get those awesome concussions?”
Boys popped them straight back on as she’d crushed the perception that it’s cool to ride without.
Just takes one leader either way.

always away from the valve.. the valve is the last part of the bead you want to install.
My last rimpact with contis on a 481 was tool free.
gotta stuff that rimpact up into the casing while keeping the bead in the trough. that way the inserts not getting the way

Shimano Canada sorted me out with parts to repair my failed 12 speed clutch no bother even when parts were effectively unobtanium. However warrantying shoes was a failed venture that left me frustrated.
Anywho, if you’re familiar with clutch service and have a drawer full of spares then you could sort this in 5 minutes with zero stress.

Giggling.

haha, I see that as feel good infectious joy.. but “thats how it is”

I know many on here don’t seem to like him

whaat?, what’s not to like? He’s an experienced racer, brings massive personal insight into the current racer line up, his technical knowledge and line choice sharing is exceptional, is always happy and excitable yet brings a special kind of calm.

IMO he’s probably the best of the co-hosts.

As a above, t&C’s first. But you can expect language to say full refund or alternative if available.
There will likely also be a limitation of indirect or consequential loss, could be iro 100-125% of price paid to mitigate the argument of travel expenses incurred.
Ianal
I’d do it when you get home though, but you may also see t&c time limitations for making a complaint.

However you have it done, good physio, good physio, good physio

Wife’s was 10mm depressed, plated and pinned at almost 2 weeks, mostly because she was mis diagnosed as ligament damage.
Daily pain, Knee and hip replacement will ultimately be likely as a result.
Others have better results though 😉

Stans ages terribly. I often see it separate into a very thin liquid that just won’t remix with anything you add.
That’s what’s coming though your sidewalls. I see it more on maxxis but thats probably because they’re more common..
But it’s not specifically a conti thing.
Conti also haven’t had a leaky sidewall issue since the first generation baron. The only more current tire that I’ve had take longer to stay sealed than the others is the kaiser. No sealant bleed, just several cycles of reinflation between rides before it holds air properly over longer periods.