Old moany people should just skip to 38seconds.

What fork are you looking at?
I’m pretty sure a grip damper will work as defined by the forks top cap and lever combo with however many position you want. Whilst the lever top cap has indents, it’s compression is not defined by anything other than those indent stops. That’s how Scott calls it the “grip 3”
Fit4 damper didn’t come as a 2pos lever and there’s no lever option at all for a grip2
According to my local fox race mechanic, the grip damper is actually better for compression variation at remote positions between lock and open than the fit4 damper as the fit is actually very sensitive to top cap position in the levers mid point

Fox did however change their fit4 top cap design and now remote forks aren’t as simple to swap to lever forks as there missing the ident spring recess in the top cap.
Should be fine doing from lever to remote though.

Rockshox etc? Dunno.

scott made a 949g scale frame

buy the pump and stick it in there?

Watched replays on the android tv app. Seems every 4th frame is missing with random black frame inserts.
Live feed just the same :(

Defo missed Rob and his excitement. Whilst often mistaken, he was good at filling silence and getting Bart to answer questions. Rick and Bart together leave a little too much silence.

Only event 1 though.

Every year so it matches the current outfit colour range of course ;)
Didn’t get one this year though. Its my wife and youngest kids turn for a refresh of their 3yo helmets

best..

Hmmm that’s our adblocker activated pop up

Doesn’t seem to be it works for me. It only pops up when I’m logged into my (yes… I know) free account. But if I’m not logged it I don’t see it ever. Same browser, same adblocker settings etc
If I’m logged in, I can be hitting esc multiple times on the same thread to get rid of it.

I struggle a little with the paid vs free member finger pointing thing to. I’m not sure the free members bring any less value to the content posted.. equally theres plenty of paid members heavily eroding the quality of the content.

Yep, paste typo, twonks part# matches fox’s service docs.

Sorry..I’m having an off day spec wise :/
Never got into 100mm versions of the spark so I forget

Then yes, your wish to replace to qr15 is right
Looks like the kaboltx does away with the floating sleeve.
Moving to qr15, you get the functionality I describe where you set the floating sleeve once and would only need to undo that pinch bolt if changing Rona different hub.
So, you need an qr axle (803-01-548) and a QR sleeve (803-01-548)

SC means Step-cast.
The 32sc got a revision in 2020 making it a claimed 20% stiffer. (If that’s your question as I don’t know what year your spark is) [edit, likely irrelevant as the spark hasn’t run a 100mm option for over a decade and way before SC was launched]

The 34sc as above is stiffer again and also available in 120mm. The 32sc only in 100mm.

You will see 34step cast forks on plenty of world Cup race bikes so definately a race fork that’s also good for decent trail rides.

Now, your other issue is that even though your sparks original fork says performance, it actually has a fit4 damper.
An aftermarket performance fork only has a grip damper so you’d need to source a grip remote top cap if you want to retain the trackloc functionality.
Grip damper is actually less sensitive to fit4 for an exact trail position but I’m unsure off the top of my head if the twinloc lever needs any small parts adjustments

That pinch bolt is designed to set your lowers to your hub…takes out the tiny difference between different mamufacturers 110×15 dimensions.
Once set, you only need to use the axle to remove the front wheel.
It is not an axle locking bolt.
You could just buy a regular fox qr, again, the only reason to loosen and tighten that pinch bolt now would be if you use a different hub

I’d probably just message J’Mel on Instagram for his thoughts and I bet he’ll have a reply to you in a day.

Slayer Float X2
Slayer

XC is a race format.. (well 2 now) and always has been.

Nah, XC is just going for a pedal, largely without stopping. This year I’ve been for XC rides on my hardtail, 120, 150 and 170mm mullet bikes.
Actually, bike park laps aside (where the Slash would be killer for a light rider) , I think I’d call all of my rides XC here in Squamish.

I’m not sure that a 2-3lb penalty for a bit of extra travel is worth it, but that slash might be on the lower weight end of 170mm bikes though.
However you look at it, 170mm travel 29’er is a beast. so much straight line speed is available that my cornering ability couldn’t keep up and I actually got slower.

Finally found a 29 enduro F but no xynotal Enduro to go with it at the same online vendor
$30 cad delivery so reluctant to pay 2 lots of shipping :(

Double hole, you’re good to go. It’ll take a shifter outer no problem.

However, if you’re home installing, I suggest you take the plate off and start from the seatpost end rather than the front.
Just don’t forget to put the cable through the cover plate/grommet before connecting post to lever.

Whatever fishing method you choose, do consider that the existing internal cables should have a foam sheathing to stop them rattling inside the frame which makes push/pull install a bit more frustrating as things can get snagged up pretty easily on the foam.

The 2020 scale used a plastic cable port cover that bolts into the frame behind the headtube.
This cover accepts a rubber grommet. There are a few different iterations of the rubber grommet available. 1 cable, 2 cable, 2 cable +hose, 1 cable +di2, 1 cable +live valve.

If you don’t have the alternative rubber inserts, you can actually just poke a hole in the free space and push a cable outer through.

The scale prior to this (till 2017) used an alloy cable cover with pre drilled holes. I guess you’d have to go back to the bike before this to get round single cable sized holes straight in the frame.

If you believe you have a 2020 scale with single cable hole straight in the carbon and no cable port, then you might not have a real Scott.

What year is your scale?
Carbon or alloy?
Cable management porths with inserts or just cable sizes holes behind headtube?

Along with your transparency, I’d replace that entire piece of invisi. They (used to) do single pieces

nanaimo

Isn’t the point of aerating to enable the soil to decompact. Wiggling a fork about just compacts it more.
Now you’ve dethatched, I’d core areate leaving plugs, top dress with a decent turf mix top soil and overseed.

Not reclaimed or previously painted, it’s normal mill finish lumber for north america. Straight from the lumber yard when built I expect

Airflow and encapsulating the damp ground are in the works but we’re ultimately going to end up closing these joist cavities in as we’re creating a finished space below.

I think you closed your own thread. Almost every SUV/CUV overland build you see in the PNW has lifted crosstreks, outbacks, tacomas, 4runners etc on those wildpeaks.

350 tool to reinstall upgrade
I have an eBay pawl drive ring took. Unmarked after 1 pawl ring removal.

I get so frustrated with my kid (12) asking for a plastic roost vest.. all the “cool kids” wear them so of course that’s what he wants.. trouble is that in a decent high speed bike park crash – unlesss you’re off for a simple penguin slide – I cant see them being much better than a chocolate fireguard.. and in a decent off with rotations, that could be weeks, or the whole season off the bike.

I put him in exactly what you have, the youth 7850 vest. yes soft padded, but shoulders, collar bone, ribs, kidneys, chest, spine and all the other upper body and core bits are covered. He can complain all he wants, but its a pretty darn good bit of kit.

He needs to size up though and I’m thinking of going the RF flank core route, but its still missing some key protection points for lift assisted riding (Whistler season pass in his case). Might be a halfway house that in addition to impact shorts is a reasonable compromise – depending if adult small works
(FF, knee pads, elbow pads and a neck roll are also mandatory for him)

Doh, yep,. No solution to retain CL rotors, only retain CL hubs with 6bolt rotors..
You could use the extended locking ring and machine down the CL to 6bolt adapter to 3mm, but your get 3mm less contact at the hub to rotor interface which would be less desirable than moving to 6 bolt rotors.
Sucks of course if you’re running Freeza/ icetech xtr rotors that are CL only

Now8 make the extended offset center centerlock adapter that you need

Go see a good hand physio?
Immobilization to limit movement during daily tasks whilst undertaking appropriate mobilization exercises to manage inflammation might be on the cards.
Carry on as normal probably isn’t the best strategy.

Get the longer ones, d-ligts run out past the end of the thread anyway so you can’t physically bottom out a nipple if the spoke is too long.

:P

Chains don’t stretch

:Massive eye roll:

Pointless symantec argument about a commonly used term to describe the increase in distance from end to end of an object.

The chain you are measuring against has stretched .
I just swapped out a chain that was well over a whole link longer than the one it replaced.
1% stretch would be 1.16 links right?

Oh, I think I misread here.

Could be grey product that was pre split for a specific mfr drivetrain install.

Aiui, European rentals are required to provide basic liability insurance. ( A car rented in Europe through a us/Canadian website of a global chain will NOT get liability included. I don’t know if a USA based car rented via a eruopean website will get liability coverage included)
In the USA and Canada, liability insurance typically is provided by your credit card (which UK card issuers don’t) so there’s no law to provide liability insurance as part of the rental.
I wouldn’t drive a car in the most litigious culture in the world without ensuring I had suitable liability insurance.
Typically CDW is physical property only coverage for the car you’ve rented.

Is liability coverage in the EP?

Bought a larger drive put it in a USB m.2 enclosure, cloned the C: partition into a new partition on the new drive then extended that partition to make it larger.
Then realized I might have to cone the system partition for the boot wizardry so have done that too.. but partition by partition, not the whole drive.

I assuem when I switch the m.2 drive out, I just change the boot order in the bios to reflect the new drive, as this is D: and C: will have been removed.

As I have to disassemble the screen, bezels etc to get teh the m.2 mount, any way I can test this clone before I take things apart?
Or have I already made a glaring error?

Early EXP issue is old news is it not? Check your article dates.

A retail shock almost certainly won’t have the same rebound or compression shim stacks.
Commencal will have custom tuned.shocks from fox/rockshox for each of their frames.
It might not be an issue, or it might change the ride characteristics noticeably as shim stacks are tuned around the frames kinematics…

Here’s the fox spec off a meta sx tear off on pinkbike by inputting the code in fox’s website.

2022 Series FLOAT X 2pos
Serial number: 1023264-0332-T
Part number: 979-67-046
Description: 2023_22, FLOAT X, P-S, A, 2pos, Evol LV, Commencal, Meta SX, 230, 62.5, 0.6 Spacer, CL, RM, Rezi LMB1, Standard, Neutral Logo

So, iirc,
compression Light
Rebound Medium
Rezi Base Valve, Lever Mode Medium, Bleed 1

The rezi is the base valve so is what happens with lever actuation and how it controls the pedalling platform ( I think)

A retail shock almost certainly won’t have the same rebound or compression shim stacks.
Commencal will have custom tuned.shocks from fox/rockshox for each of their frames.
It might not be an issue, or it might change the ride characteristics noticeably as shim stacks are tuned around the frames kinematics…

Thanks qwerty.
Small at 5’7 with saddle slammed forwards means I may not have much to worry about with seated pedalling.
I’d put 152mm cranks on so perhaps some extra post margin.
Carbonda are shipping with the 120 NS link now too.
Reeksy, he’s on medium on a felt compulsion at the mo.
He grew through his 27.5 bikes XS 395, sm 410, med 430 but all with fairly typical 74deg seat angles. 445mm seems right for this one as the medium grows another 30mm.