As supplied by who? Is this the cube?

Those Shimano adapters do come with a specific pair of bolts.

Magura call for 2mm rotors, Shimano are 1.8

If this was out of a shop and not aftermarket tinkering I’d have questions.

Not saying that the lower bolt you have isn’t the right length as intended for an equivalently  spaced SRAM 180-203 mount, but it’d still be a question mark as to the suitability for my mind.

Side note, when you get your new lowers, I’d also encourage you to adjust the axle nut to let you get the QR lever properly closed in the position you want

Sorry,  not meant to be preachy/critical, but I’ve no doubt it sounds that way

Proper parts bin asembly!

SRAM bolts, Shimano adapter, Magura caliper.

There was a better solution than this.

New lowers would do.

Weird history.

Whistler bike park rental fleet for close to a decade. You could buy an ex rental bike for pennies on the dollar so they flooded their own market.

R&d became “Kona launches new paint color “

They had a bit of a revival in 2016-2018 with the process and carbon bikes then went stale again.

Then, last year they were doing direct sale 2 for 1 bikes.

Never a good sign when your selling product at 50% off..always hard to sell back at rrp after a deal like that

XS BMC speed fox trail crew with a slackset.

Will go up and down anything

Other 27.5 2016 generation bikes with short cranks and a slackset are also great options

Great stuff if you pay the money and get sealed 4-sides product. The cheap stuff is cheap for a reason.

Power washing no problem if it gets grubby.

You do need to provide for airflow below though

Agreed, I’d take unreviewed bike launch news over the republished copy/paste sponsored announcement from a USA based bike rack company who’s product isn’t relevant in any way to the UK market, or any market outside of North America, to which I assume is largely irrelevant to stw subscribers/readership

I’d think that if you don’t report it, people will just go get that info from PB, vital, bikerumor etc and I assume eventually you loose traffic, and you need that traffic to convert sponsored article clicks to cash surely?

Came here to say PIAA sci-tech too, but ended up with the much cheaper bosch icons this time as I didn’t want to spend the extra on blades that would last longer than I’ll have this car for… it’ll probably die inside 4 years.

In the xc/DC theme, here are the spark frame weights..3 versions of full carbon build

Scott Spark HMX SL – 1,870g

Scott Spark HMX – 1,999g

Scott Spark HMF – 2,150g

Scott Spark HMF/alloy rear – 2,590g

Scott Spark Alloy – 3,290g

I’ve just been looking at this as I’m trying to figure out which Genius ST to buy for my ripper.

Scott’s top end hmx carbon genius frame is 2295g, the normal hmf carbon front with alloy chain/seat stays is 2795g and the full alloy is 3299g.

So, add 500g (1.1lbs) as you decrease through the  range but add more still as full build component weight also increase.

I’ve been fortunate to have hmx bikes and hmf/alloy bikes typically built with the same components and can say with certainty that the lighter frame full hmx carbon build has been the better bike every time.

The spark 700 is a tidy bike. Junior tuned forks and dropper too.
We had one that went through both my boys albeit raceday upgraded.

Shock isn’t proprietary.. it’s a standard dimension trunion mount with the benefit of remote actuation. It’ll fit on other bikes.

But yes, nothing wrong with selling a starter race bike for those who might have a financial barrier to going as fast as they could.

There are some carbon recycling startups, no further info though.

Spark 910 or 930 depending on budget willl see you on a killer DC bike with full Shimano.

Also unsure how we can suggest SRAM are so amazing when tabling the sx Gruppo that has an immediate upgrade requirement. No level of Shimano needs swapping out of the box.

I had a similar issue with my 2017 Spark. Couldn’t fit an FSA caliper so had to use XTR brakes. Wasn’t just a factor of caliper width, but also that the pistons bore was a little further to the rear than the shimano caliper.
No option to use any other adapter though as it was a frame specific hardware mount.

Looking at the non-driveside bb face, there was a circumferential crack in the paint between 8pm-11pm. Paint removal and investigation suggests its nothing major and more of a telegraph through the paint and possibly minor delamination between the carbon bb sleeve and bb shell. Cant see any failure inside the shell but I appreciate I’ve not got xray.
No idea how long I’d ridden it like that but I’d prefer to reinforce it
Definitely recognise the concern the concern but I’m but sure its any more of a catastrophic risk than a rear rim, seatstay or chainstay going bang.

Appreciate the input above.
No vac gear. I’m going to find the kids whoopee cushion to see how well it deforms. Nice idea :)

I wonder about casting the Internal BB shell with silicon and having a tapered rod (mandrel?) that takes up as much volume through the BB axle path as possible to keep the silicon mold workable. Remove that and can then hopefully peel/fold the remaining silicon out once cured. Then, use an inner tube in place of the tapered rod to create outward pressure on the silicon mold and have it push against the carbon/epoxy that laid inside the BB shell?

Remove the detents and the grip damper essentially has infinite compression adjustment between open and closed. The indexing off the fit4 damper is actually a bit hit or miss as to wether or not it lines up correctly with its intended mid position.

The downside is the added weight due to thicker (iirc) stanchions and older “squared” lowers but still a great value fork.

Binners, that’s a cool piece. is it to relative scale though?

I had an mk1 GTI and it was much smaller than the 5dr mk4 gti that would take 2 bikes in the boot, 4 passengers plus weekend luggage.

My mk1 was a USA rabbit so heavier and slower than the euro golf but still a proper little gokart that brought smiles to faces…either fondly reminded people of days gone by or amused by the silly little car compared to trypical canadian traffic.

Unsure which but it always made me smile!

Did you ask your insurance?
Otherwise book alternative accommodation and have a different better time?

Loctite green bearing assembly/retaining.

Not sure which number I used successfully for the same problem on a carbon felt.

2004.. Timo Pritzel, his commitment to the cause when gapped the cabin at Whistler joyride, breaking both ankles for what, a $1000 slopestyle podium prize purse?

$30k total split between all mtb events and podium spots that first year.

Its always the biggest spectator draw (crowd count), but I doubt the biggest revenue generator. I don’t believe that there’s a large number of people as destination traffic just for that specific event. Its more likely co-incidental spectatorship if you look at the demographics of the crowds.

No jail IIRC

But, if he’s on record in his deposition saying his cash holdings are in excess of 400mil and growing, yet he doesn’t actually have the cash, has he perjured himself and was this a longer play by the prosecutor’s to turn this into prison time?

Didn’t say it was a problem, but certainly harder to make an assessment of its previous life if it’s got new paint, new panels, new seats etc.

Im.assuming they don’t come out of the factory like that?

Good looking t5 but surely had a bunch of mods?

It might be a good idea to not piss off the Harley rider though, especially if they’re wearing colours

apparently drives down local crime rate if you’ve a neighbor who wears a patch.

yep, coupel of new drivers around here in 80’s volvo saloons with no muffler/silencers. Better than crackle maps though
I cant believe the nerve of some people.. not like I was driving around in my late teens in a Westfield annoying my neighbors ;0 Just didn’t realise how anti social it was until being on the receiving end and no longer the owner of a loud car.
The bigger issue here are the big 7L diesel pickups giving it the beans in the residential streets spooling up their twin turbos and laying down rubber and soot.

gonna be tough to insure the liability of someone who lays it all on the line!

most hubs i’ve swapped bearings on will drift out with the axle.

doesn’t make a 120mm FS any less ‘downcountry’

Sure it does. A 120mm forked Oiz, a 67.5deg Canyon are absolutely less capable in the “down” part than a 130mm forked Spark, Izzo etc

I don’t think any of those 3 are downcountry bikes. They’re xc bikes

 Cube is closest with a full fat 34 but you’ve got to go at least 130mm to qualify

how do you see the U as a U and not as an I if you cant spacially account for the E?

Funnies aside, its actually a great riding top. I have the non Turd version

(edit, the long sleeve one pictured, not the one linked, the sleeves make it)

iirc j-kit is just a plugged master cylinder with olive in place behind nut and a pre bled caliper/hose with a membrane over the end.
you can essentially just pop the rubber boot onto the hose and push the end into the master cylinder and tighten the nut.

non j-kit sets are just pre assembled systems

non j kit calipers would be empty calipers with no hose I guess.

If you’re fitting Lyriks to an Izzo, even if it’s a bargain you’ve bought the wrong bike for what you’re doing

I dunno, i ran a 140mm 36 on a 2019 spark tuned and it was an absolute riot up and down.

For whoever buys it….
Human Fall Flat
Unravel Two

Amazing cheap indie titles, played alone or better with a friend

What about looking into some games that rely on the gyro controls rather than pressing buttons and thumbing joysticks?
MArio kart even lets you steer with gyro wheel.. though I guess you need a full fat switch for the joycons?

DT 370, so still not brilliant)

I dunno, better than most pawl hubs retrofit star ratchet if you want

I actually have a synchros wheelset that’s listed as a 370 hub that came out of the box with the ratchet kit installed.

I find it unusual to smell anyone wearing scents these days.
Aftershave/eau de toilette was reserved for younger days in the romance spectrum.
Wife loves me regardless apparently, plus my kid been using my old clinique happy as air freshner after using the toilet… so that’s ruined that.

whether that’s because DH bikes are better or the kids are better, I’m not sure

I think its more that DH racing is no longer a grass roots sport and there are many parents bankrolling the acceleration of progression with dryland training, expensive skills and racer development programs.
Gone are the days of smashing loam turns with your pals in the woods and here are the days of freelap, cone drills and “pay to play”. There are a half dozen companies in a 50mile radius of me delivering eyewateringly expensive racer development programs for kids.

I think that’s why you’ll see more full DH bikes at races, because parents have budget to throw at equipment in addition to rider development programs. The full DH bike isn’t necessarily the requirement, but if you’re spending several thousand on a season of training, you’re more likely to assume that you’ll need a dh bike to go with that “investment”…plus lift line pressure for younger minds.

I can’t find a reference immediately, but I’m pretty sure the French national race series don’t allow racers on triple crown forks for racing until after 13. I stand to be corrected though as I cant verify that anywhere quickly

I did just browse the FOD race photos from Jan on Rootsnrain and from your sons cat, P3 and P5 were single crown. 13-14 p2 and p3 single, u13 p2, p3, p4 single, u17 p3 single.
Notably for the OP’s case, for the 13-14 girls, the *only* rider on triple crown forks was P7 of 7
the winners of F15-16 and F17-18 were also the only ones it their categories riding single crowns.

At 13, don’t be afraid to look outside of what you think a “dh bike” is. Single crown forks all the way for my mind for lighter riders (assumptions made)

You might find an equivalent age 170mm Enduro bike is actually better than a DH tank and might give you more options in budget

Here’s my 13yo’s Whistler DH bike. Probably cost me just over 1000quid to build with lots of parts bin and marketplace digging.

He’ll size up to a medium 2018 yt Tues for next season with 29er 38’s. I paid 200 bucks for the carbon tues frame so an experiment I’m happy to explore.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CeFWXYpF1kV/?igsh=MW5qYmZjZTVpdTJ5OQ==

let him play everything and anything.
Let him choose what he wants to stick with later.

From a pure accessibility perspective, I doubt anything beats football.

I totally support bmx as a sport, but I’ve never come across anything with such intense parents.. its nuts with USA families using at as a moto pre-cursor for 5 and up.
Thankfully my boys don’t want to play ice hockey, which is potentially another intense sideline sport.

I coach u13 soccer, absolutely zero sideline drama in the last 4 years aside with managing 20 players and their wide spread of personalities

oh my god stw and formatting “< br /> ”

its very likely that as you push the cable through the preformed bent metal guide it will pop off its own ferrule and more force on the cable will just make it bend between the cable guide and now disconnected outer inside the frame and never let it out its holes

I would:
remove the twinkloc from the bar with cable still attached.

remove the shock bolts. trunion are regular thread, top shock bolt is opposite thread (righty loosey)

Then I would draw the cable out as you remove the shock allowing the twinlock to move along the cable path towards the headtube. the cable/frame boot will likely come with it
Then I would disconnect the grub screw, give myself some inner slack and chop the mangled end off the cable where the grub screw has damaged it.
Remove the inner entirelyquestion if i need a new outer but if not..
push a new cable through as per the old one.
take care as it reaches the 90deg bend metal guide. do the guide first, then install teh guide into the bottom of the nude starting with the cable
wind off all the tension on the twinlock canble tension screw and make sure its in open mode
pull the new inner tight and nip up the grub screw
check that when switching to traction mode the marking on the compression dial falls between the two lines
cycle lock/traction/lock a few times to make sure you’ve seated all the ferrules and check cable tension again.
ase shock back into frame pocket while bringing twinlock lever away from headtube port (so you dont kink the outer)
reseat the boot at you get close
reinstall bolts
reattach twinlock
check for full lockout function and add turns to the barrel adjuster if required.

Bonus points here while the shock and rear wheel are out to check your bearings. main pivot likely seized.
remember it uses flex stays so harder to check that other bikes.

as an android family, whatsapp seems to be the best solution for face-to-face calls with grandparents on various devices.
What’s the whatsapp concern when snapchat etc are out there?