Still looking, some magical black Friday deal hopefully.

Theoretically, Can Trump win, then cut a deal and concede the presidency to the Dems in order for them to not prosecute.. ever?

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Are the stw Servers running really slow?

It’s a 2024 model year bike in holdover for 2025.

4 pot rear Shimano are a mystery. I’m going with a bubble trapped in behind one of the pistons that a “regular bleed” just won’t get.

Bleeding with the caliper higher than the master cylinder ( or at least not as the lowest point) may help as long as you can activate your vibrating and free rotating wrist.

I doubt a drain down would get you at any better point.

On my phone, I rely on typing the start of website to visit frequently entered addresses with auto complete.

H to Hotmail, F to Facebook, I to Instagram, S to singletrackworld.com/forum.

Each time I intend to go to stw it’s going to take me via that /forum link and each time I’ll get Hannah. As above, throw a redirect on?

Surely it’s broken all links too the forum from other sources too and all Google search results.

IR panel heater for stealth heat to avoid her being the villain

They can even be pictures or mirrors. Zero noise, on only when needed.

generic carbon vs steel question?
you might get less “hurtyback” on a well designed 853  steel frame
I’d expect a carbon scale to be faster yet less adaptable

Dt tape with decent tension..approx 4-5mm wider than the rim inner. Green method above, why you’d leave a liftable edge to allow sealant into spoke holes is a bit of a mystery to me.

gutted for Jesse, was hoping he was going to bethe one to tick the Canadians over on a 3rd straight year at the top of the podium*.
Two more Canadian enduro racers ready to back up Finn though

*Well, he’s probably not quite fast enough on the big bike but he’s an exceptionally good ambassador for the sport.

i assemble my washers on sqorx with an earbud to apply the grease to the nipple shoulder.
Many of the assembled nip’shers can be threaded on a couple of turns by hand as the spokes will come far enough out before you’re fully laced.
As i get further into the build, I’ll switch to preloading a nip’sher into the DT t-handle and put the nipple through the rim and put the threaded end into the nipple as I’m lacing each spoke and put a couple of turns on it for safekeeping.
Once they’ve all been installed a couple of turns, I’ll use an E-5 socket (female torx) on an extension in my little bosch 12v driver and spin them all on till the thread just disappears. Its probably only about a total 4 more turns after that with the t-handle and tension gauge to completion.
at least one dropped washer and the old shakey shakey retrieval and I’m happy enough

^ True, show me a more powerful and better modulated brake than the o.g Gustav 2 piston brake!

I’d just put a 4 piston caliper up front. At least you’ll have a more reliably blead rear.

Odi F1 vapors seem much more durable than ESI

not sure i’d want to be swinging something that *could* pivot closed against my hand

“down from storage” as in hanging with the front caliper higher than the lever?

I’d think you’ve had air migrate from the lever to the caliper in addition to any other potential seal issue

I’d invisi/ridewrap every bike without question, I’d choose whichever has the template for my bike but my experience of ridewrap is that it doesn’t do well with repeated “friction” so performs poorly against heel rub, tailgate rub etc

Email reminder of renewal here too, no mention of any price change, legacy user.

I wouldn’t be messing with an insulation with zero moisture permeability unless I had guidance form a building envelope engineer, I’d be even more hesitant about allowing for an air gap in a space with no air exchange and in both cases little to no drying potential. You’re potentially creating a vapor pocket with faced foam below tile. The wooden sub floor will take on any moisture and any small leak potentially ends up as a structural issue.
Rockwool solves that as it’s moisture permeable so allows for drying potential.
I’d sell the foam, or use it where designed

that’s a pretty old shock (2014?). I imagine that eyelet body version was discontinued well before that version of the Oiz was released. I assume its an LV eyelet body.
I worked on a team race bike, it wasn’t as tight as that but way more fiddly with how Orbea’s squidlock was tucked up in the frame and inside that front shock mount.
Was a spectacularly light bike.

The fact he was wearing a Balaclava shows that he knows damn well he shouldn’t be there

Polite motor biker in the wrong place removes *helmet liner* to effectively and respectfully communicate with woman.

Some brands are doing carryover bikes rather than releasing new colors for 2025. Is it a drop in 2025 rrp?

Scott had their 2023 genius 910 st, for 2024 it was the same spec and colour except for the newer sram udh AXS and it was significantly cheaper rrp.

I’d be more concerned that by the time your bike arrives it might be on year end clearance,although I suspect ebikes will see less reductions than real bikes.

Who’s getting all the Scott clearance stuff now?

I’d repair that, at home, with a kit from what used to be easycomposites, but a basic pro-repair near me is $400+.
So at potentially 80 quid, id send it off like munrobiker did.

Fyi, Shipping won’t be cheap.

Why not PayPal gift it to remove his risk postage process is the same as domestic.

His pinkbike profile is well enough established (13yr) that there’s an acceptable level of trust.

I’ve been posting sub $100 parts out with honesty “payment on receipt” recently to well established pinkbikers. Not been bitten yet.

I’m in squamish, but there’s a lot of moving parts to this. Forex, cash, guy sells it to someone else in the mean time, forex back, exchange rate difference so you get less back than you sent, gets lost in the mail, etc etc.

Avoiding a 3rd party is best, there’s the better part of a half a day of work doing this.

I wonder if the issue is install related vs tight bend radius.

If you’re just jamming your post in without “pulling” that extra cable out as the seatpost drops into the seat tube then you’ll end up with a kinked spaghetti mess of excess cable.

To to this effectively, you need the inner cable secured to the lever so you can pull the whole  lot as one. That means working out the required outer cable length before hand.

All my Bosch (12v and 18v) have LEDs that stay on for a short time after a trigger squeeze…if that’s what you mean?

My 18c ec Bosch impact [IDH182] that also has an led on button (sadly has developed an intermittent trigger fault after 10 years of pretty hard use) also has 3 adjustable torque settings which is brilliant and happily jumps between cabinet assembly and driving 12″ GRK’s. The Milwaukee that I’ve been using in it’s place is pretty rudimentary in comparison.

The Milwaukee was free and will do for now.

As an aside – how come this isn’t a known, talked about, failure mode with 30mm axle cranks, which are all aluminum axles interfacing with steel bearings

The worst I’ve seen ironically is a DUB 30 “waisting” away at a sram alloy spindle, like 24mm, the DUB has a plastic sleeve, so not steel on alloy.
This bike was going through a DS bearing once a month

Steel BB bearings tend to leave a rusty ring that a quick pass with some wet and dry paper gets rid of.

I’ve a 30mm FSA crankset in a BSA bb with a sealing tube.

What about wider spindle pedals to move your feet away?
I appreciate your helitape issue, my kid has worn though the helitape and the top layer of carbon on his fancy E13 cranks that have only seen about 15 bike park days

Heel rub through his chainstay ridewrap too after a couple of rides. The stuff doesn’t work well with repeat friction ime.

In 2018, Fox made a 34 27.5 Plus fork. It had a wider spaced CSU/lower than regular forks..
I ran a 3.0 tire on my Solaris Max with that fork, oodles of clearance.
Gotta be some stock kicking about.

anyone saying Milwaukee is a social media influencer, or a plumber ;)
They’ve done a great job marketing themselves to be fair and do have a massive range of tools.

Its brushless Bosch obviously though, or apparently Japanese imported Makita if you’re serious

Cascade/WRP for mullet links to widen your options?

You’ve listed some expensive  brands so the cost of an additional link/yoke perhaps shouldnt be excluded

I like the idea that genuine odi grips could turn up on AliExpress.

Counter to the off brand stem, I also bought some odi “brand” silicon grips. Shopping purely for color.

Odi don’t even make a grip like I purchased and the box is a very poor Chinese copy.

My sample of two suggest that “off brand” products are probably the same mould/machining, “on brand” are likely fake.

just bought an off brand DMR Defy35 of Aliexpress. logos and bolts aside, the machining marks appear to be the same.

sometimes you might have to loosen your linkage pivot bolts. install shock and retighten the pivots after

no, sorry, just once, but your rim tape – once deformed to the shape of the inner rim profile – should butt up against the inner rim side walls. Rim tape should be one size larger than your inner rim width to account for the extra distance of the curve in the rim bed.

The priority is to stick the tape into the rim bed (done at application) then with your thumb in the “go back around” step, a second press down in pass 1. passes 2 and 3 are to press the already applied tape onto the sides of the rim.

Wheel upright between your feet, start a couple of inches of tape on the rim with the loose end away from you. Pull about 10″ of tape off the reel, hold the wheel tight with your to toes and put tension into the tape as you pull those 10″ towards you. With your other hands thumb, work the tape into the rim bed with the roll still under tension.

Rotate the wheel away from you a bit, pull another 10″ and repeat.

At the end, overlap by a few inches.

Go back around with your thumb and push into the rim bed again, then do the two sides.

Rag over your thumb if you’ve delicate skin.

Your target it to get the tape set without wrinkles and you can do this best if you apply the tape to the  rim bed.

My “race bike” wheels are Syncros Silverton 1.0. Carbon rims built on a 370 LN hub.
I’ve 240 and 350 on everything else and they work just as well.
Broken one set of 36T stars in about 18 years. I wouldn’t buy anything else.

sure it was, koretzky put a foot down, avoided a tree, almost at a stop and had to rattle back through his gears, pidcocks momentum largely unaffected.
Great pass that Koretzky left the door wide open for

Would being 40s back with 2 laps to go count as insurmountable

Evidently not in his head, remember the day before where his uci team mate took some massive time dents? (Her lap vs 2nd fastest lap time)

Lap 2 31sec

Lap 3 32sec

Lap 4 25sec

Lap 5 35sec

Notably lap 6 she was 25 seconds faster than Haley batten (silver)

Pidcock getting back to the point he could put that huge pressure on koretzky was superbly impressive. No panic, took time to settle back in and then make big efforts between shifts as second wheel. Koretzky didn’t have the benefit of time or calm and to be fair, was potentially another mistake away from getting caught by Hatherly. No not gold, but silvers better than bronze.