Not a crack, crack would have followed the arc of the weld, as for won’t crack on a weld i have seen plenty of ally tig welds crack right down the middle.

I don’t think there is any such thing as a skills compensator on a roadbike.

Been running a di2 demo bike at the shop for a few months now and it’s great very reliable and very slick and gets washed after every ride so it’s seen a lot of water.

This has always been a problem with sram from x9 down xo and xx never a problem, sram uk have no obligation to deal with you problem it wasn’t supplied by them, same as buying it from chain reaction and sending it back to wiggle for warranty.

We have to get back to the origanal post which quotes exsisting trails, footpaths, we have the exact same problem in our local forestry commision woods, in the last 15 years or so we have built up a network of natural trails using undulations that already exsist and just clearing leaves and dead wood and have a fantastic trail network that is low impact and the forest wardens turn a blind eye too and when the leaves fall these are covered and unless you are local you would never find them.
However in the last few years we have seen increasing digging of jumps and berms on some of the more known of these trails and the forestry do not like it and have becomes far less freindly to our cheeky trail building and it impacts on us all and in the end we will all lose our trails.
If you own the land build what the hell you like but when useing public land shared with horses and walkers and sneeky trails on private land keep the signs of a trail to a minimum and we will keep the use of our trails well into the future.

If your seatpost is 30.9 your frame will be 34.9 so you want a 34.9 seat clamp.

Pretty sure you can, just buy the q/r inserts that plug in the ends of the axle.

I have always used GS rear mechs on my triple set ups, gets the mech up out the way that little bit more.

Or you could just MTFU 😆

I want to crack 4 trail centre routes in one day, have done three loads of times, so cymn carn first back in the car and carry on up to affan and do short skyline, whites and the wall.

That looks great will have to come and have a go round i’m only just south of marlborough, i’ve heard people talking about it but first time i’ve seen it looks like quite a bit of sweat went into it.

Can’t realy mix them up, BB30 bearings press directly into frame, pressfit 30 come in nylon cups. Definatly don’t put them in loose that will cause wear to the frame and compound the problem however i can’t beleive specialized aren’t any help they should know whats fitted.

On a serious note all bikes supplied from uk dealers should have the brakes setup the correct way round to conform to british standards.

Its the spline inside the hub you want, it will be an allen key but unsure of what size in a ritchey, undo that and remove the whole freehub and replace with a new one.

Fabs, just being smug although if you were close i would have no problem letting you borrow it. 🙂

I find it very easy cos i’ve got a giant bearing press kit. 😀

I don’t run them, the rear mech has it’s own adjuster and i set the front one up by pulling more cable under the clamp when it needs it.
Inlines only realy needed in racing because you don’t know if a spare wheel someone gives you if you puncture is going to index properly.

Can’t beleive any good local bike shop dosn’t do it, we keep m5 and m6 in stock, m5 in stems is our most common repair.

The sram adaptor is ok fairly permenent, its an alloy tube with standard bsa thread in which is pressed and bonded into the bb30 shell, works fine.

I think out of this whole thread there are only 2 people that are able to ride anywhere where there are trees, you lot must all ride in the lake district and yorkshire moors where there are no trees to get stuck between.

Exactly what cynic-al said, why oh why can’t all the companys making alloy freehub bodys let in a steel strip on 3 or 4 of the splines problem solved and wouldn’t add any noticable weight and it wouldn’t take me 20 mins to get my cassette off.

Cable tie all the way, those stupid clips keep coming off.

No probs i’ve been running kenda ust tyres on mavic 717 disc rims for ages.

Not realy any benefit for upgrade stick with what you have.

So you want us bike shops to be full of staff that know their stuff love riding and be open all hours of the week, so when the hell do you expect us to enjoy our riding with our mates that have 9-5 jobs 5 days a week, its bad enough having to work every saturday and having one day off in the week and ride on my own like billy no mates.

i have just had one of these in the workshop rusted in, if i can’t lever it out i use a dremmil to grind through the race untill it cracks then they lever out easy, then use dremmil with wire brush to clean out the seat for the new bearing.

I’m a beleiver in teaching yourself.

I’ve been out demoing bikes with 15mm q/r forks today and i can’t say i noticed any performance advantage over my current 9mm q/r.

The salsa one seems to get good reveiws on lever size and shape.

Looking at that frame you indeed need an integrated headset this is where the sealed headset bearings seat directly into the headtube of the frame there are no cups to be pressed in, however telling which one its going to be is tricky from the picture but it doe’s look like a campag one of which most bmx’s use, campag compatible bearings have larger agular sections on the bearings compared to cane creek and fsa, ultimatly you won’t know until it arrives.

Sounds like corrosion under the paint to me, road salt is deadly and gets in all the nooks and crannies, i road my mountain bike to work last year and the roads were very slushy i work in a shop so gave it a good wash when i got to work to try and get rid of the salt by the end of the day the chain and cassette were rusty as hell, last time i did that.
Other wise your sweating to much and sweat is equaly bad at corroding your nice parts.

Well like it or not electronic is coming to mountain biking and personally i am looking forward to it, i have heard as others may have that eletronic XTR is on the way and maybe within 2012, and i have heard from a source in the know that shimano have already planned electronic XTR, XT, STX and deore within the next seven or eight years, As people have said in this thread shimano generaly do good things and as of yet i havn’t heard of any problem with dura ace or ultegra di2, as for rapid rise it wasn’t a problem with the product as it worked fine the general public just didn’t take to the idea.
As for the battery v’s dynamo WTF you know how heavy those hubs are don’t you and the battery lasts 6-8 months and only takes 2-3 hours to charge and as someone else commented if you ignor the few hudred miles worth of low batt warning well you deserve to be stuck in that huge gear all the way home. ROLL ON XTR DI2.

Yep miche hubs are very good, the bearing are great and last ages.

Grip shifts are great after just seeing the new 10spd ones i’ll be getting them.

Yes been riding one for years, fantastic xc bike mines got float 80mm on the front but you would get away with 100mm.

No way would i pay that amount for an event, gorrick always put on great events at a fair price.

I’ll second white lightning, clean ride and epic ride are very clean.

Maybe lose cones on the axle.

I get the same thing if i havn’t been to wales for a while, the more you do it the less it affects you.

I’ll check the length tomorrow.